
Book. „-^^ 

GpightlJ? :___ 



r^Tjw, noMPLBTE 



I I 




Copyvight, 1905, hy William R. .IE^•KI^ 



THE COMPLETE 

POCKET-GUIDE 

TO i^^^jl. 

EUROPE ' 



EDITED BY 

EDMUND C. STEDMAN 

AND 

THOMAS L. STEDMAN 



NEW YORK 

WILLIAM R. JENKINS 

48th St. and Sixth Ave. 



LONDON 

BAILLIERE, TINDALL & COX 
8 Henrietta Street, Strand 

1905 



J^ D o -^ 


.S3 i 






Copyright, 1898, 1899, 1905, By William R. Jenkins 



All Rights Reserved 



Pbinted by the 

Press of William R. Jenkins 

New York 





TABLE OF COINb ^ 


lAD 


MONEYS. 






Dollars. 


Pounds Steel'g. 


Fbancs.i 


MAaKS.2 


Flobin3.» 


.OOJ 
.00^ 
.01 
02 


L. 


s. 


d. 


Fi% 


c. 


Mk, 


pf. 


FU 








I 




5 

10 
20 
25 






















A 


04- 










20 


A 


TO 


05 








£ 






06 






3 

4 










.07^ 

.08 






























<? 


20 


.10 








£ 


50 






2& 


.12 






6 




50 




.20 






















E 1 








......... 




.21 
















{)0 


.25 




1 








1 








40 






E 2 










.42 




....... 










A I 


* 


JO 




2 
2 


....0. 






2 




- 


32 




6 












.84 












A 2 




100 








k 5 










1.05 










.. 




2 


BO 


125 




5 





"■■lo" 





5 






2.00 




®t 




2.10 
2 50 


......... 


lo"' 






'To" 







4.00 






20 






®i 


" " 


4.20 
















5.00 


' 






E25 




» 




" 


8.40 


' 






20 




10.00 








50 
100 








..... 


20.00 










" 


















" 






...... 



> Francs are used, under different names, in the following coun- 
tries ! France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Greece, Roumaniaj Servia, 
Bulgaria^ and the coins marked E in Spain. The two coins of 0.25 
and 25 pesetas (or francs) are used onhj in Spain. 

* Marks, or Reichsmarks, ai-e used in all the G-erman eountrieg 
not forming part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. 

* Although nominally different^ the value of Dutch coins and 
Austrian paper or silver is very nearly the same. Austrian gold is at 
a premium. Coins marked A are used both in Holland and Austria* 
those marked (a), only in Austria. The Austrian gold pieces of 4 and 
9 florins are also marked 10 francs and 20 francs, and. are acf^ented m 
buch in all the counti-ies using francs 



NOTE BY THE EDITORS. 



THIS book has been for many years before the pmllb 
lie, and is thorougbly tested by increasing use 
among travellers through the portions of Europe gen- 
erally covered in a single tour. It resulted from ob» 
servatlon of the trials undergone by those equipped 
with the larger and more cumoious handbooks. We 
devised the Pocket Guide because such a work was 
sorely needed, and no one else undertook this practi- 
cal service. The ends desired were : 1. Fuller and 
better arranged details of Routes, Points of Interest, 
Fares, Hotels, Currency, etc., than are given in 
many books of greater proportions. 2. Legible type 
and good maps. 3. A real Pocket Guide, so com- 
pact as to be carried in a man's coat or hip pocket, 
or in a^woman's dress-pocket or muff. 

The work has been revised from year to year, and 
to an average of correctness at least equa) to that of 
any other condensed guidebook. New maps and 
other improvements have been added. The volume 
however, has been rigidly kept within its original 
size. We believe that the Pocket Guide is as near 
what it claims to be as editorial diligence can make 
it, and trust that it now, more than ever, will add tc» 
the comfort of travellers from our own and othei 
English-speaking countries. 

The Editors. 



ABBEEVIAIIONS. 



M. .... Mile, or maes, 

ft. Feet 

in. , , . . Inches. 

sq Square. 

N North. 

S. , , . . South. 

E. . . „ . East. 

W. , . . . West. 

r. . . . . . Right (hand). 

1. .... . Left (handX 

rly. . . . Railway. 

Stat. . . . Station. 

ch. , . , Church. 
hr. , „ . . Hour, 
inin. . . . Minutes. 

£..... Pounds sterling. 

«• .... Shilling, or shillings 

k. , . . Krone. 



mlcjuil 
pf. . , 
kr. . . . 
I ... 



r. . .. 

Sun. . 

Mon. 

Tues. 

Wed. 

Thurs. 

Fri. 

Sat. 



. Peiitiy, or pence. 

. Franc, or francs. 

. Cents, centimes, or cea 
tesimi. 

. Florin or florins. 
:s. Mark, marks. 

. Pfennige. 

. Kreutzers. 
, . Lira, or lire. 

. Reales. 

- Sunday. 
, ■ Monday. 

. Tuesday. 
I c Wednesday. 

. Thursday. 

. Friday. 

. Saturday. 



The names of the most Important towns, buildings, and collections 
are printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects, 
©f less importance, have titles in italics. 

In many cases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous 
«vents, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directly 
after, in parentheses. 

Statements which have for many years been regarded locally as 
toichallengeable facts (e. g., the preservation of the heads of St. 
Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in 
fihese pages without comment. 



CONTENT* 



A Chapter ON Travel • J| 

i^rrangements for the Journey 

^' Steamships. — The Ocean Journey ..••.. 

^ ) Money, etc. .....•••' ' ^ 

Railway Travel ^^ 

•^otel Expenses, etc, ...••••»••• 

Kil'arnev.— The Lakes ^ 

Publin .■ • i* 

1 elfast, Giant's Causeway, etc •••»••• ^^ 

ORTH Wales .....»..« 27 

:oL\ND (Chester) » . 32 

Liverpool .,...«»«...•••• 36 
English Lake District ..,..,•,'.•• 42 
. TT.AND (The Land of Bums) ,...«•.. 56 
'I he Scottish Highlands ....«,<,... 68 
Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen ,., ...»»• 80 
Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford ..»«•«» 85 

Sngland (Newcastle, Durham, York) ,»,... 95 

Manchester, Lincoln, Derby ........ 103 

Coventry, Warwick, Stratford , . . « > e . 112 

London 128 

Excursions in Southern England ........ 151 

*<outes to the Continent . ,. 159 

Hor; THERN Erance ...,....,.,. 161 

Paris ...,,... 168 

Routes from Paris to Switzerland .,.,... 19S 

Belgium ,.,,..... SOI 

Brussels and Environs . > . . . . « * 204 

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc. ....... r 2u7 



^' ' CONTENTS. 

Holland ,, gj^ 

Germany and Austria 2lg 

Up the Rhine by Steamer .222 

Berlin 241 

Dresden and Prague -24f> 

Vienna 25*.» 

Southeastern Europe 255 

Munich and the Tyrol . • . . 2eJ 

Switzerland (Basle, Zurich)-. ark 

Lucerne, Kighi, St. Gothard ........ 280 

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva 287 

Chamounix and Mont Blanc 29$; 

St. Bernard and Simplon Passes 294 

Italy (Routes into Italy) 297 

The North-Italian Cities 302 

Florence 329 

Rome 340 

Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri 370 

Sicily 384 

Southern France (Nice, Marseilles) .397, 

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, Lyons 401 ' 

A Round Trip in Spain . . . , , 405 

Portugal ,,,... » 434 

A Tour in the North ........... 441 

Norway and Sweden 445 

Russia . . . . » 4.^15 

Alphabetical Table OF Health Resorts . . . 46 i 

Diplomatic and Consular Agents of the U. S. . 471 

Travel-Phrases in Four Languages 473 

Travellers' Telegraphic Code 493 

InI'^x 500 

TisLE of Moneys ....... Opposite Title-Page. 

Abbreviations ..... Page facing Table of Contents. 



THE COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. 



A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 



(COURTEOUS READER,— When you have laid 
aside you prejudices, donned your garments of 
travel, and set your foot upon the gang-plank of the 
steamer bound for Europe, it will not be our fault if 
you discover that you have forgotten something. If 
you have bought this our little book, and read this 
preliminary chapter, you will depart for foreign lands 
with all your preparations properly made. ^ 

This Guide describes, as minutely as possible within 
the limits of a "handy volume," a continuous tour 
through Northern, Middle, South-eastern, and 
Southern Europe. The writer hopes and believes 
that if you follow exactly the routes which he de- 
scribes from the first to the last page of the book, 
you will have seen intelligently, at a minimum of 
cost and inconvenience, the most interesting sections 
of Europe, and all within /owr months. By suppres- 
sing the trip down the Danube and some parts of 
the Scottish and Sicilian tours, and the Scandinavian 
and Spanish tours, this can be reduced by three 
weeks. Many summer tourists seem disinclined to 
visit N. Germany and Austria. This, we think, is a 
decided error of judgment; but it is evident that if 
these sections are not visited, the time is reduced 



^^1" A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

bj another teu days. Most travellers can, with a trifle 
of care and patience, sit down with this book before 
them, and bj its aid plan a journey which^ inchiding 
the ocean voyages oat and back, shall not take up 
more than four full months, and can be made with 
ease and enjoyment. 

Especial attention has been paid, in the preparation 
of this volume, to giving the local railway and steamboat 
fares, — a feature in wiiich nearly all other English and 
American guide-hooks are sadly deficient. We believe 
that our work will be found very complete in this 
particular. Several hundred letters were written to 
station masters in all parts of Europe for the purpose 
of securing extreme accuracy. In most cases we think 
our fares will be found correct. Railway fares, how- 
ever, vary considerably in Italy during the course of 
a year, and our fares may sometimes be found a bit 
higher or lower than those prevalent in that country ; 
b\it the difference will be slight. We have done our 
best to secure accuracy and fulness of detail. The 
traveller will be duly grateful, after he has tried in 
vain to find what he wants in the "A B C's" and 
*' Bradshaws " of Great Britain, and has puzzled his 
brains over the complicated Continental hand-books. 
We think that the route which we recommend and 
describe may be followed from beginning to end with 
no other guide than this one, which can be carried in 
the breast-pocket. The writer has been over nearly 
every route described. 

Arrangements for the Journey, 

Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe 
by the first of May. With a view to this, secure your 
steamship tickets very early in the year. When you 



AKRANGEMENTS FOR THE JOURNEY. IX- 

have decided on the date of your departure and the 
probable length of your absence from home, step intO' 
a prominent banker's in the city in which you reside, 
or the seaport whence you sail, and secure a Letter of 
Credit or Circular Notes for a sum which you deem 
sufficient to cover your expenses until you are at home 
again. Allow a margin for contingencies. The Letter 
of Credit is the most convenient, the safest and the most 
sensible manner of carrying money. On it are the ad- 
dresses of perhaps two hundred of the leading banking 
houses of Europe, and you have only to call on any one 
of these for such sums as you wish in the currency of 
tlie country where you may happen to be. Letters of 
credit are negotiable, at the bearer's pleasure, by any 
person who chooses to accept drafts made against tliem. 
Firms not named in the letter will often give larger 
■exchange than the regular local corresDoiident 
Buy at a broker's a few English sovereigns, for use om 
steamer, at landing at Liverpool, or Queenstown, or 
Southampton, or other ports. With these, and your 
Letter of Credit, you are v/ell enough equipped as i<^ 
money, * 

Take a Passport. Circumstances may occur in 
which it will be positively necessary for you to ha/e 
one. Address a letter to the State Department, 
Fa'ssport Bureau, Washington, asking for the printed 
foi-m necessary for application for the document. When 
you get this form, fill it out, swear to its contents 
before a notary, and send it back to the State Depart- 
ment, inclosing the government tax of $1. In due 
time you will get your passport. One is sufficient for 
man and wife, or man and family where there are not 
grown-up sons or daughters. if a passport serves^ 



:x A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

for more persons than its holder, he should ask to 
have a note made upon it that Mr. is accompa- 
nied by . Passports are absolutely necessary if 

any one is suddenly called on to prove his or her 
identity. They are useful in securing admission to 
public buildings, private art galleries, etc. Some- 
times the regulations exacting them are revived for £ 
few days between two countries, because of a diplo- 
matic tension or imbroglio, and the person who has 
none will find his journey interrupted, and will suf- 
fer loss of money, time, and temper. 



Steamships.— The Ocean Journey. 

A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a 
common undertaking that most travellers make as 
brief preparation for it as if they were going by 
train from New York to Chicago. 

The choice of steamships is very large. Try to 
secure your berths some weeks in advance of sail- 
ing; a deposit of $25 is in most cases sufficient, 
and this you are supposed to forfeit if you fail to 
take the ship, although you may generally post- 
pone your departure by giving prompt notice of 
your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special 
rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usually ex- 
cepted. 

Among the lines specially to be recommended are 
the White Star, New York to Liverpool, calling at 
Queenstown, every Wed. (fares, |60 to $225); from 
Boston to Liverpool, calling at Queenstown, every 
Thurs. ($60 and up) ; Mediterranean service from 
Boston every other Sat. (fares to Naples, $75 to $100). 
The Cnnard, N. Y. to Liverpool, via Queenstown, 
Sat. ($65 to $250); from Boston to Liverpool, Tues. 
($65 to $150), Mediterranean service f rom N. Y. to 



THE OCEAN JOURNEY. xi 

Naples and Venice, Tues. (|60 to $90). American 
(only line sailing under the American flag) steamers; 
sail every Sat. for Southampton, with tickets to Lon- 
don, or Paris via Havre ($90 to $125 in summer,. 
$75 to $100 in winter) ; also from Philadelphia everjr 
Sat. for Queenstown and Liverpool ($40 up) . North- 
German Lloyd express steamers for Bremen (calling- 
at Plymouth and Cherbourg), Tues. ; twin-screw pas- 
senger steamers for Bremen (also calling at Plymoutlx 
and Cherbourg), Thurs. ($150, scaling down to $75); 
Mediterranean service every second or third Sat. 
direct to Gibraltar and Genoa or Naples ($150, $100, 
$90). Hamburg-American express steamers to Ham- 
burg (calling at ^Plymouth and Cherbourg) everjr 
Thurs., and special sailings by twin-screw steam jr 
" Deutschland " during the season (summer $100 up,, 
winter $55 up); regular service to Plymouth, Cher- 
bourg and Hamburg every Sat., and special sailings 
during the summer (summer $75 up, winter $70 up); 
Mediterranean winter service to Gibraltar, Genoa atid 
Naples ($100 up). Transatla?itigue steamers sail 
every Thui-s. to Havre direct ($105, $100, $60, in- 
cluding wine). 

Other popular lines are the Holland-America^ 
every Tues., to Rotterdam via Boulogne ($60 up) ;, 
Bed Star, from N. Y. to Antwerp every Sat. ($55 to 
$110); Allan-State, Thurs., to Glasgow and London- 
derry ($15 to $75); Atlayitic- Transport, N. Y. to 
London, every Sat. ($50 up); Anchor, every Sat., to 
(^lasgow ($50, $60, $75, or by special steamer, occa- 
sional _ sailings $60, $80, $100); Scandinavian- 
American, to Denmark, Norway and Sweden direct 
irregular dates (summer $50, $60, winter $40, $50) ; 
rr%rbce, to the Azores and Italy, sailing everv three 
weeks ($75 and $80). 

The choice, as you see, is varied enough to suit 
any purse, and the accommodation on even the most- 



xii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

inexpensive of the ships is good. For information 
as to sailings of these steamships from European 
ports for home, consult the list of sailings issued 
by the various Ss. Co.'s and the daily journals. 

The question of Baggage for a European tour is 
very important. Our advice is to take with you in 
any case one large, stoutly built American trunk, 
plainly marked with your name, place of abode, etc. 
Have it well hooped about, and see that it possesses 
a capital lock. Into this put everything that you 
are certain not to require on the ocean voyage. Then 
pack such articles as you will need either in a roomy 
Talise or In one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built 
so that they will go under a berth, which may be had 
at any trunk-maker's. Ladies will find these * ' cab« 
in trunks '* almost indispensable. Take with you 
plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule in 
travelling on the Continent always to have over- 
coats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find them 
as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as in Scot- 
land and North Germany. When you reach 
Liverpool, if you intend to return by that port, 
you can leave your cabin- trunk stored at a hotel 
hv steamship office, if you think you will not re- 
quire it. Then have your large trunk sent from 
point to point where you may need it, but travel 
€n all short excursions, trips of two or three days, 
«tc., unencumbered by anything that you cannot 
<3arry in your hands. Eve^ vf a valise is rather vol- 
uminous, you can take it into railway carriages 
with you all over the Continent It is not wise to 
restrict one's self in amount of baggage ; w^hiie the 
rates for overweight are high in some countries they 
mre low in others, la Use^t Bi'itav\ you can carry 



THE OCEAN JOURNEY. liU 

almost anything except a house with you and no ques- 
tions are asked. A good portion of the equipment of 
a masculine traveller may be purchased after his arrival 
in Europe. He vrould better bring his American over- 
coats, but hats, shoes, rugs, linen, etc., can be had 
to advantage in Great ]3ritain or France. Besides, by 
wearing European hats and shoes you will save money. 
It is a mistake to say that a man is known by the com- 
pany he keeps ; he is known by his hat and shoes. 
They are tlie distinguishing marks of his make-up. 
Travelling suits for gentlemen should be modest in 
color ; black clothes are handy when one arrives at a 
fashionable watering-place or a large town, and even- 
ing dress is highly necessary in London in the season, 
and in long stops in other cities it is of course fre- 
quently required. We shall not venture to offer the 
ladies advice about what to wear, further than to repeat 
our injunction concerning plenty of wraps, and to hint 
that thin shoes should not be worn in travel. Gentle- 
men will find gloves worn almost everywhere on the 
Continent by all except the working-classes, and often, 
by some of them. Ulsters and linen dusters should 
be avoided ; the uister,_ outside the British Islands or 
at sea, looks odd and is useless. A waterproof coat 
is extremely useful. An umbrella, stout enough to 
serve the purpose of a cane, should be taken. Woollen 
socks aiid thick-soled shoes are the things for travel. 
Travelling suits for gentlemen cost in Great Britain ov, 
France about one third as much as in America. They 
are not made so well, nor of such good material as our 
OMai, but they are very serviceable. 

On the Steamship Voyage keep m the open air as 
much as possible. If you suffer continuously from sea- 
sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and in one of the 
adjustable steamer chairs, to be provided by yourself. 



xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

remain in recumbent posture, well wrapped up, but 
do not pass a moment of daylight down stairs, except 
when at meals or in very rough weather. The deck 
steward will even bring you your meals, if necessary. 
If the ship pitches violently, lie with your head to- 
ward the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain 
so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense appli- 
cation to books or cards. Just live, eat, and sleep, 
and when you reach land you will be amazed to 
observe liow you are rested. Avoid late suppers. 
Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you 
are approaching land the question of stewards' fees 
will come up. We should say give the steward who 
waits on you at table 10s. ; your berth-room steward 
somewhat less, according to the trouble you have 
made him, and the deck steward about 5s. ; the 
"boots" and bath-man must be remembered if you 
have been served by them. But if yoa cannot afford 
so much, give less; the servants expect something, 
but they never grumble at the amount. 

Landing at Queenstown is very simple. You go 
oif in a tug, which transports you up the bay frorr 
Roches Point (see Ireland). Customs formalities 
same as on 

Landing at Liverpool. — We strongly advise tourists 
to leave the steamers at Queenstown, and go through 
Ireland first, but we feel convinced that large numbers 
of them will proceed to Liverpool. The landing ar- 
rangements at this great port are not so perfect a& 
J;hey might be, and have recently suffered some small 
alterations. Passengers formerly left the steamers 
in tugs, and came up to the Prince's Landing Stage, 
where there is a kind of custom-house, and where they 
were usually kept waiting about an hour. Now ships j 
usually go into dock before discharging passengers , 

% 



MONEY. XT 

he custom-house officers search for cigars and 
Dirits only ; if you have neither, you will soon have 
our "luggage" on a cab or dray, and be on your 
ay to the North Western or Midland Railway 
.ations, or to your hotel. 



Money— A Word of Explanation. 

In Great Britain the money is pounds, shillings, 
lid pence (£ s. d.). In France, Belgium, Switzer- 
.ind, Italy and Spain there is a decimal currency, 
a the first three countries the reckoning is in 
rcmcs and centimes; in Italy it is in lire and 
entesimi ; in Spain, pesetas and reales. But 
;old and silver coins of any of the five above- 
named countries circulate freely in any one of them, 
""he French twenty-franc piece, called napoleon, or 
'vais, is current money anywhere in the Continent., 
':k Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and 
ents. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40 
•ents of our money. In Germany the reckoning is 
h marlis and pfennige. The mark is about 34 
jents gold, and there are 100 pfennige in it. When 
you give one pfennig to a beggar, he never troubles 
V)u again. In Austria you must reckon in florins 
md Jcreutzers. The florin is 46 cents of our money, 
and is divided into 100 kreutzers. Austrian paper 
money, with which the country is flooded, and which 
is legal tender when coin is not contracted for, is 20 
-or 25 per cent, below par. You will observe that 
-n giving the local railway fares in these different 
. 'ountries, we have used abbreviations : Pounds, 
: hillings, pence, £ s. d. ; francs and centimes, fr. c. ; 
^ire and centesimi, 1. c. ; pesetas, p. ; etc. In Portu- 
gal the money is counted in reis, of which it takes 



xvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

ten to make one cent. In Russia roubles ana 
kopecks are the money. The gold coins most in 
use on the lines of travel which you are likely to 
take are sovereigns and half-sovereigns (English) ; 
— the guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is 
still used in reckoning ; — twenty, ten and five 
iranc pieces ; twenty-mark and ten-mark pieces ; 
Hungarian twenty-franc pieces ; Spanish Isabels, 
worth a trifle more than sovereigns. In Sweden, 
Norway, and Denmark the kmne ($0.26.8) is the 
basis of reckoning. Be careful not to bring Italian 
or Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will 
lose very heavily on it. English, French, and Ger- 
'.nan bank notes are as good as gold. The French 
have notes of fifty, one hundred, five hundred, and 
one thousand francs, and these are extremely con- 
venient to carry on the Continent. (See ComparO' 
iive Table of Moneys in front of title-page.) 
■:^,flailway Travel. — You will find firsts second^ 
and tliircl class everywhere (save upon the English 
Midland Railway and a section of the Great 
Northern, which have no second class) ; and we 
have given the fares for each class in all cases when 
practicable. Express trains on the Continent have 
no third class ; but in Great Britain nearly all 
trains have it. First-class is best for long jour- 
neys ; second good enough for short ones ; and 
third worth taking now and then, particularly in 
England and Germany, for the purpose of study- 
ing the common people. Second-class in Germany 
and Austria is almost as comfortable as first-class 
in England and France. On a long journey from 
France into Germany, you may frequently take 
*'a mixed" ticket with advantage, i. e., first 
in France and second in Germany. A gentle- 



,, WORD OF EXPLANATION. Xvii 

nan travelling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue 
may take third-class through from London to Glasgow 
or Edinburgh, or from London to Liverpool, saving 
just half the sum he would expend in first-class. lu 
England and Great Britain, generally, people speak 
of "taking" a ticket and "booking" a place. The 
" booking-ofiice " is where the tickets are sold. The 
conductor is called the " guard." This phraseology 
appears to have been left over from the old coaching 
days. Be sure and attend to your "luggage" care- 
fully. Get a label pasted on any piece that you pro- 
pose to leave in the "luggage van," and when you 
reach your destination, be on hand to claim your 
things. There is' no checking system. Small bags, 
wraps, etc. can always be left in a "cloak room" at 
any railway station for hours or days. Fees trivial. 
Employes are civil and obliging, but all expect small 
compensation. Do not make the mistake, either in Great 
Britain or on the Continent, of giving large gratuities. 
In the British Islands smoking-carriages are provided 
on every train; in Erance and some other Latin, 
countries smoking is permissible, by general consent, 
in any carriages except those reserved for ladies only ; 
in Italy, only in smoking compartments ; in the Ger- 
manic lands smoking is wellnigh universal, although 
every train has its damen-coupe, and its compartments 
'Fiir nichtruucher. The coupes, or end compartments 
Vwith windows in front, — another survival of diligence 
'and coach customs, — may be hired at reasonable 
charges above the first-class fares, and should generally 
be^ engaged beforehand at the station. In France and 
Middle Europe generally the tariff is about 16 francs per 
•seat per thousand kilometres. A party of four, going 
'through from Paris to Cologne, or coming from Nice 
to Paris, will find a coupe worth taking. Do not 



3Eviii A CHAPTEE ON TRAVEL. 

trust too implicitly to information furnished by rail- . 
road and steamship officials, for it may be mislead- 
ing. Among R. R. guide books, " Bradshaw," price 
6d., is the most compact for Great Britain; the Chaix 
" Guide des Chemins de Fer de I'Europe " will do for 
the Continent. It contains all that may be found in 
the local guides published in Germany, Switzerland, 
etc., costs only 40 cents, and is corrected several times 
yearly. Most guides are furnished with maps, from 
which you can gain very clear ideas of the location of 
the lines along which you travel. On excursions, re- 
member that return tickets can generally be had at a. 
discount from the regular fares. Return tickets are 
usually available only on the day on which they are 
sold, and by the first train of the next. Saturday 
iiekets, however, generally extend until the first Mon- 
day train. On the Continent the terms for returns 
are much more liberal than in Great Britain. " Cir- 
cular tickets" are issued in nearly all countries, and 
ample information concerning them is given at rail- 
way stations, hotels, banks, and in the newspapers. 
There is usually a saving — (there is certainly great 
convenience) — in buying these circular tickets, espe- 
cially to those who, for example, wish to go from 
Paris to Switzerland, and after visiting that country 
to return directly to France. There is a great variety 
of excursion tickets and hotel-coupon arrangements, 
by which inexperienced travellers, or those who do 
not care to explore their own routes, may be aided in 
travelling, passing all over the Continent and the 
Levant under efficient chaperonage. Prominent 
among these is the agency of Messrs, Thos. Cook 
& Sons, Messrs. Raymond & Whitcomb, and Messrs. 
Henry Gaze & Sons. There are sleeping-cars 



RAILWAYS. xiX 

on many English and Continental lines ; in 
Oreat Britain are like our own; on the Conti- 
nent the "Mann Boudoir Car" is in use. This 
latter is very comfortable, but the rates are extrava- 
gantly high. The Boudoir Cars are called wagons- 
lits, "bed-wagons," in most Continental countries; 
their office in Paris is No. 2 Rue Scribe. Between 
Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and 
Turin and Florence, and often Rome also, Paris 
and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular 
sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger 
and more elegant than the other Continental ones; 
and in Russia and Switzerland a modified Ameri- 
can railway-carriage, in which, however, class dis- 
tinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of 
baggage carried free in France, Spain, and Sweden 
is 66 pounds; in North Germany, Austro-Hun- 
gary, and Russia, 55 pounds; in Great Britain, any 
reasonable amount; in South Germany, Belgium, 
Holland, Italy, and Switzerland, there is no free bag- 
gage, but the rates are not ext)=avagant. In some 
parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great 
complaints that baggage has been plundered in 
transit by baggage-masters and trainmen; hence 
the necessity for first-rate locks already men- 
tioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded 
to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed, 
the railway companies generally insist on this' 
and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely 
fastened. In all Continental countries, when your 
baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and 
the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the 
trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight, 
you must have a receipt. In some cases, in going 
from an important city in one country to an impor- 
tant city in another, your baggage can be "registered 
through," and examined when it reaches destination: 



-XX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

in others, although registered through, it must be ex- 
amined at the frontier. The examination is a pure 
formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases noth- 
ing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees 
to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with 
prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German 
and Swiss railway depots, apply to the portier for 
information. In Italy the railway faccliini are paid 
according to tariff, — 4 soldi (cents) ibr a trunk, 2 for a 
bag or valise, alid in proportion for a bundle of wraps, 
etc. In E-ome, liowevei', this tariiF is raised to 5 and 
3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scotland, 
Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not very good; in 
other countries they are excellent. On long journeys 
carry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain, 
where fruit, bread, and wine may be had in the open-air 
markets for a song, but in hotels are purposely held very 
dear. In Italy and Russia a window on the wind- 
ward side of a railway carriage cannot be kep^ 
©pen if any person in the compartment objects. 

Hotel Expenses 

must naturally vary much according to taste and in- 
come of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully 
selected, and we believe that the houses recommended 
■will be found satisfactory. _ Great Britain is an ex- 
pensive country by comparison with Switzerland or 
Italy; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns 
and country cheap. The American will notice with 
some surprise that life in Europe is, as a whole, no 
longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live 
even carefully at a first class-hotel in any part of Great 
Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a 
half daily, divided somewhat as follows: breakfast. 



HOTEL EXPENSES. xxi 

from two and six (two shillings and sixpence) to three 
and six; lunch, about same price; dinner, without 
wine, five shillings ; room, from four and six to eight 
and six, and invariably one and six for attendance. 
Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the 
United States. There are, however, good hotels, 
where you may live at about ten shillings daily; 
and private boarding-houses in the large cities 
where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily — • 
rarely under ten. A person very economically 
inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, but 
not in rapid travel. On the. Continent you may 
calculate that if you reach a hotel at nightfall, dine 
or sup and sleep, and take early breakfast there, your 
bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days 
you may manage not to spend more than from ten 
to fourteen francs daily. In large capitals, simply 
take room at your hotel, and your first meal there. 
The others can be had to suit your purse and con- 
venience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzerland, 
and some parts of Italy, the tables d'hote are cheaper 
than the restaurants. ' If you want a cheap room in 
a hotel, say so ; there is no surprise at economy in 
Europe. Candles are charged extra, but you are only 
bound to pay for those you actually use. Gas is rarely 
found in bedrooms. Travellers should carry their 
own soap and toilet paper. Washing can usually be 
done within 24 hours in all countries. When you'buy 
a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the num- 
ber of the chamber, and not your name. Fee the 
portier at Continental hotels; he will be useful. Give 
one of your dining-room waiters something, but give 
to only one. Never mind the head waiter's sardonic 
frown. In France you will save inoney by taking your 
meals at the hours when the natives take theirs; out 
of hours you pay special prices. By asking for "ice- 



xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

water," you can now get it almost every where^ 
In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, an^ 
dilute them with water, except at evening. The 
vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all coun- 
tries. Examine your bills, and don't allow over- 
charges. OmDibus from station is generally 
charged in bill. Baggage porter expects small 
fee when you go away. Insist on having your 
bill when you ask for it. You will find English 
spoken in almost all hotels. You can always 
post letters and generally send telegrams from 
your hotel, unless in some small country town. 
Telegraphy is cheap in nearly all European coun- 
tries. ^Before leaving America tell your friends 
to write to you, care of your bankers in London 
or Paris ; if you keep your bankers advised of 
your address you will never miss a mail. Reg- 
ister your name at the London and Paris offices 
of your banker's; and you may thus find friends 
or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad. 
In Paris you will find Messrs. Drexel, Harjes & Co., 
John Munroe & Co. , Henry Gaze & Sons, Thos. Cook 
& Sons, and other bankers, well provided with post- 
offices, reading-rooms, and information about 
travel. If you need a courier (but you really do 
not), ask your banker or landlord for the address 
of one. Couriers are expensive luxuries. 

We think all necessary information about cabs will 
be found in the text of the volume. Diligences are to 
be avoided as much as possible. In some places they 



CAUTIONS. xxiii 

are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes 
and streams you may usually take free about twice 
as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bar- 
gains beforehand tov private carriages. 

A few Cautions as to small matters may not be 
out of place. Should you go shopping on the Con- 
tinent, especially in France, Belgium, Switzerland, 
or Italy, try to make up your mind from your in- 
spection of an article in the windows whether you 
want it or not. The window is really the shop ; 
everything is plainly marked, and if you go in 
and come out again without buying, the skopkeeper 
considers that you have made him waste his time, 
and does not conceal his disappointment from you. 
Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and 
inspect the inventory made of them before you move 
in. Do not violate any regulations, municipal or 
general, however trivial and useless they may seem, 
for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at 
the theatres at least 24 hours before you intend to 
go, otherwise you will be badly placed. Avoid 
draughts in France and England, and in France do 
not leave your windows open at night. After climb- 
ing a Swiss mountain pass, be careful not to take 
cold; imprudence in the mountains often ruins a whole 
summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches, 
and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In 
passing from sunshine to shade, gather your garments 
about you, and avoid chills. Treat servants in France 
and other Latin countries and in Switzerland as you 
would in America, but in Great Britain and Germany 
and Austria keep them at a distance; they do not un- 
derstand democracy, and would impose upon you. If 
you go to siposfe restante (general delivery post-office), 
present your name plainly written or printed on a card. . 
In making pedestrian tours in out-of-the- way districts. 



XXIV A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

do not lose your temper if the local officials are a 
little curious about your movements. In case of 
sudden illness in France, Italy or Switzerland, call 
an American or English physician. The French and 
Italian and Swiss doctors employ remedies which are 
sometimes too gentle for Anglo-Saxon constitutions, 
and often fail to prescribe sufficient nutriment. But 
a local physician who has had practice among 
foreigners is better than a foreigner. 

Language is not so great a barrier to communica- 
tion as is imagined. If you get into a corner of 
Europe where no tongue that you can speak is under- 
stood, use English just as if the people knew what it 
meant, and make signs. You will gqt on famously. 
The little list of phrases at the end of this volume 
may be found an aid to those who have some 
familiarity with those languages most spoken in 
Europe. On general principles, however, it is better 
to use what little you know of a foreign language 
than to seek interpreters. You will be presumed to 
know more than you express, and you will make 
better bargains. 

Go to the United States Consul for information 
when you are really in doubt and need advice. Not 
even then, if he is a political appointee and not a 

Practical man. In the latter case oidy is he likely to 
ave that acquaintance with the language, laws and 
customs of the place, whereby he can aid you ; while, 
if he has an important office and attends to it, he 
has little time for strangers who come without a 
business reason for their call. 



GOLFING-OYCLING. XXV 

Golfing. 

'ine opportunties for golf on the Continent have- 
greatly increased during the past few years, many of 
the hotels in the resorts largely patronised by English 
and Americans having had links laid out. Golf 
clubs having more or less desirable courses have been 
established in the following places: — Belgium — 
Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ostend, Vianden ; France 
— Aix-les- Bains, Arcachon, Argeles, Beaulieu-sur- 
Mer, Biarritz, Boulogne, Cannes, Costebelle, Dieppe, 
Dinard, Gavarnie, Hyeres, Nice, Parame, Paris, Pau, 
St. -Jean de Luz, Sainte Marguerite (Pornichet Sta- 
tion); Germany — Baden-Baden, Berlin, Bremen, 
Dresden, Homburg, Wiesbaden; Oibraliar; Holland 
— Arnheim, Doom, Haarlem, Hague, Hilversum, 
Leeowarden; Italy — Como, Florence, Rome, Sart 
Remo, Sorrento, Spezia, Varese; Portugal — Oporto;. 
Russia — Moscow, St. Petersburg; Siveden — Gothen- 
burg; Switzerland — Maloga, St. Moritz, Samaden. 

Cycling. 

The chief inconveniences of a cycle tour on the- 
Continent are those due to the customs reguiat ions in 
the different countries. At neaiiy every frontier the 
tourist is obliged to pay the regular duty imposed 
upon wheels imported for sale, but on leaving the 
country this duty is refunded. The following is the 
deposit required in each country, the amount in each, 
case being reduced to its Ainerican equivalent: 
Austria, $10; the tourist must swear to a declaration 
that he intends to remain only temxporarily in the 
country, and that his wheel is not for sale; on leav- 
ing the country the deposit will be refunded; Bel- 
gium, 12 per cent, ad valorem; if intending to leave- 
the country by rail, the tourist must write in ad- 
vance to the custom-house official at the frontier, en- 



xxvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL. 

closing receipt and stating on what train he will pass 
through; the money will then be refunded when the 
frontier is reached. Denmark, 10 per cent, ad 
valorem; special permit must be obtained if tourist 
intends to leave through another custom house; a 
lead seal must be attached to the wheel as a receipt, 
England, free. France, 25 cents per pound; a lead 
seal is attached to the wheel as a receipt, and the 
tourist may leave by any frontier. Germany, free 
for tourists ;' in this country bicycles will not be 
taken on the express trains. Holland, free for 
tourists. Italy, $8. Luxembourg, 3 cents per poimd. 
Portugal, 27 per cent, ad valorem; a seal required as 
in France. Russia, $7.80; a seal and permit re- 
quired as in Denmark. Spain, 5c. per pound; and 
in addition the tourist must obtain a special pass 
good for six months, for which 20 cents is charged ; 
the frontier officials are sometimes exacting, and it 
may be wise to secure the services of a custom-h^use 
broker. Siveden and Norivay, 25 and 30 kr. respect- 
ively ; if the tourist intends to enter the country 
through any but the principal custom houses he must 
obtain a permit from the Director General of Cus- 
toms, and he must leave the country by the same 
route that he entered; his deposit will be forfeited if 
he remains over sixty days; Switzerland, 6c. per lb. 
Any American wheelman intending to vour on the 
Continent; if he is not already a member of the 
L. A. W., should join that organization, as it gives 
him many privileges. The governments of Italy, 
Belgium and Switzerland now permit touring mem- 
bers of the L. A. W. to pass their respective frontiers 
without making a deposit. There is also an alliance 
between the League and the Cyclists' Touring Club 
of Great Britain, whereby a member of one may be 
admitted to temporary membership in the other 
without extva fee. The Touring Club de France 



GOLFING-CYCLING. xxvii 

may also be joined by Leai^ue members at sliglit ex- 
pense, and with menibersiiip in tliose two clubs one 
obtains road books free, reduction in rates at hotels, 
and many other advantages. 

The wiieid should be provided with a brake, a bell 
or gong, and a lantern. It must be boxed for the 
steamship very strongly and not merely crated; a 
bicycle trunk, though expensive, is advisable. There 
is a charge for freight on most lines. If the tourist 
has th© precaution to take a second chain and extra 
nuts, together with a serviceable repair kit, he may 
be spared much vexation and loss of time and 
money. 



Customs Eegulations. 



The following circular to passengers returning to 
the United States from foi'eign countries has been 
issued by the Secretary of the Treasury. A compli- 
ance witli the recommendations therein contained 
will spare the traveller much annoyance. The text 
of the circular is as follows : 

All persons on their arrival in the United States 
are required to make a declaration under oath of all 
dutiable articles obtained by them abroad, upon a 
blank furnished by the government, to an acting 
deputy collector, who will board thh vessel at Quai-- 
antine. The declaration will be verified on the pier 
by careful examinatimi of the content?s of the pack- 
ages. In order to expedite the inspection and to 
facilitate your departure from the pier, you are 
requested to answer fully the questions of the acting 
deputy collector at the time of taking your declara- 
tion. A failure to frankly answer is likely to arouse 



xxviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

suspicion, and to cause a minute scrutiny of your 
baggage and consequent delay. 

The senior member of a family may include all the 
members thereof in his or her declaration. 

State the exact number of pieces of baggage in 
which your effects are contained. 

Give the cost or foreign value of each dutiable 
article. 

^ As far as practicable, keep your original receipted 
bills for all purchases of any importance during your 
stay abroad. 

When packing your baggage for your return trip 
it would be well to prepare a list of articles so pur- 
chased, with the prices paid for each. 

If these articles are so placed in your trunks that 
you can easily find and exhibit them for appraise- 
ment, much time and inconvenience will be saved. 

Each person is entitled tp bring in fifty cigars or 
three hundred cigarettes for his own use. All cigars 
and cigarettes in excess of this number and less than 
three thousand are liable to seizure, but in meritori- 
ous cases may be released by the payment of a fine 
equal to the duty and the internal revenue tax. 

Duties will be assessed at the foreign market 
values at the time of exportation with due allowance 
for wear or depreciation. A failure to declare duti- 
able articles in your possession will render the same 
liable to seizure and confiscation and you to criminal 
prosecution. 

In case passengers are dissatisfied with the values 
placed upon dutiable articles, they have the privilege 
to demand a re-examination, but application therefor 
should be immediately made to the deputy collector 
at the pier. If, for any reason, this is impracticable, 
the packages containing the articles should be left in 
customs custody and application for re-appraisement 
made to the collector at the custom house in writing 



CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxix 

within two days after the original appraisement. 
No request for re-appraisement can be entertained 
after the articles have been removed from customs 

custody. ^ ^, . 

Baggage intended for delivery at another port 
may iZ forwarded thereto upon application, without 
the assessment of duty at the port of arrival. 

Any baggage or personal effects in transit through 
the United States to any foreign country may on 
application be forwarded to the port of departure. 
The officer taking your declaration will advise you 
on this point. 

Representatives of various railroads and express 
companies will be found on the pier and will take 
charge of your baggage and forward it to destination 
if desired. 

Government officers are forbidden by law to accept 
anything but currency in payment of duties, but if 
requested will retain baggage on the pier for twenty- 
four hours to enable the owner to secure the cur- 
rency. 

It is unlawful for customs officers to receive any 
' ' tip " or gratuity, and to offer the same is a violation 
of law. 

Passengers are requested promptly to report to the 
Secretary of the Treasury, the collector at the custom 
house or to the deputy collector at the pier any dis- 
courtesy or incivility on the part of customs officers. 
A resident of the United States returning thereto 
is entitled to bring with him, free of duty, personal 
effects taken abroad by him as baggage, provided 
they have not been remodelled or improved abroad 
so as to increase their value, and, in addition thereto, 
articles purchased or otherwise obtained abroad, of a 
total value not exceeding $100. Such articles may 
be for the use of the person bringing them or for 
others, but not for sale. 



XXX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL 

(To prevent the use of the foregoing provision as 
a cloak for smuggling, customs officials are in- 
structed to inquire into the bona fides of the journey 
and the actual ownership of the goods. Either the 
presence of an unusual amount of any class of highly 
dutiable merchandise or frequent and hasty journeys 
is sufficient to raise the presumption of bad faith. 
Such cases will be subject to most careful scrutiny 
and prosecution.) 

All articles obtained abroad, whether exempt from 
duty or otherwise, should be declared, and an allow- 
ance of $100 for articles obtained abroad will be 
made by the deputy collector upon the pier. 

Non-residents of the United States are cL^'tled to 
bring with them as baggage free of duty all vfearing 
apparel, articles of pei-sonal adornment, toilet articles 
and similar personal effects in actual use and neces- 
sary and appropriate for the wear and use of such 
persons and their present comfort and convenience, 
not intended for other persons or for sale. 

Non-residents for the pui-poses of customs admin- 
istration are divided into three classes: 

First — Actual I'esidents of other countries. 

Second — Persons who have been abroad for the 
purpose of study, restoration of health, or for other 
specific objects, and have had a fixed foreign abode 
for one year or more. 

Third — Persons who have been abroad for two 
years or more for any purpose whatever, and who 
have had dunng that time a fixed place of abode for 
one year or more. 

Household effects of persons or families from for- 
eign countries will be admitted free of duty if actu- 
ally used abroad by them not less than one year, and 
not intended for any other person or for sale. 

The law expressly forbids the importation into the 
United States of garments made in whole or in part 



CUSTOMS REGULATIONS xxxi 

of the skins of prohibited fur seals, and unless the 
owner is able to establish by competent evidence and 
to the satisfaction of the Collector either that the 
garments were purchased prior to December 29, 1897, 
or that the animals from which the skin was taken 
was captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters^ 
entry will not be allowed. 

Hesidents who desire to take sealskin garments 
abroad may have the same registered with the Col- 
lector. 



THE COMPLETE 
POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE. 

IRELAND. 

THE majority of American visitors to Europe go 
first to Great Britain, proceeding directly by steam- 
ship to Liverpool, and leaving a tour through the pic- 
turesque and interesting island of Ireland among the 
possibilities of the last days of their pilgrimage. Our 
own impression is that those who go abroad as early as 
May or June would do better to land at Queenstown, 
and make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, 
quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow (where they 
can start on their journey in the Scotch mts.), or 
via Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel 
to Holyhead in 4 hrs., and going from Holyhead 
to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the 
English Lake District, or to London, as best suits 
their humor. Thousands of persons return to the 
United States without having set foot in Ireland. 
They intended to go there ; but after their long season 
of travel on the Continent they get back to London 
somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined, 
and tlie result is that they hasten to Liverpool, and 
take ship for home, seeing naught of Ireland but the 
Dold lines of its coast and the round towers which cap 
its highest cliffs. 



^ QUEENSTOWN. 

Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our ob- 
ject is to i,how the tourist how he may spend those 
days to advantage in that country. The steamships of 
most of the principal lines call at Queenstown, coming 
from and going to New York, Philadelphia, Boston, 
and other ports. Tugboats speedily convey passengers 
with their baggage from Roches Poi?it, where tlie 
steamers stop, up to the town proper ; and the noble 
port with it^ green water, the verdant hills crowned 
with iiandsome buildings and protected by fortifica- 
tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which 
white villas peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to 
the eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen 
nothing but sea. sky, -and the ship that brought him 
over. 

Queens to wu {Queen's Hotel) is on Great Island, 
which lies in the magnificent bay or arm of the sea 
into whicli the river Lee pours its waters. The town 
was formerly called the "Cove of Cork," and received 
its present name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. 
It is built on the face of a hiU sloping down to the 
shore ; has a Catholic cathedral and a fine Protestant 
church, and a trifle more than 10,000 inhab. Invalids 
are attracted to Queenstown by the extreme mildness 
of its climate. Rev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the 
famous hues on the burial of Sir John Moore, died of 
consumption here in 1823, and is buried on the island. 
The immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford 
shelter to the combined navies of Europe at once, in 
its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts 
on either side the channel of entrance. On Spike Island 
is Fort Westmoreland commanding entrance to harbor. 
Hawlbowlim Island contains ordnance stores and an 
armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with 6 
huge chambers, holding 10,000 bar'-eh of gunpowder. 



IRELAND. "* 

and quarried out of the solid rock. It was into Cork 
Harbor and Crossliaven Creek that Drake retreated 
when tlie Spanish fleet was hotly pursuing him. He 
succeeded in hiding his ships so effectually at a spot 
known to this day as Brake's Pool, that the supersti- 
tious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic. 

There are three routes from Queenstown to Cork: 
by rail all the way (Is. 2d., 9d., or 6d.) ; by steamer 
to Passage and thence by rail (fares same as above) ; 
or by steamer up the river direct to Patrick's Bridge. 
*' It would be difficult/' wrote Sir John Eorbes, " to 
overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to 
Queenstown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay 
in wliich it terminates, more especially when these are 
seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant 
sky." At Monkstoicn, at a point where the river Lee 
widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in ruins. 

Cork {Imperial Hotel; Royal Victoria; Commercial ; 
and others), the "capital of the South," has a popula- 
tion of 80,000. It is situated on both banks of the 
river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The 
Irish name of Cork signifies "a swamp," and well de- 
scribes the location of the town. The Gmnd Parade, 
the South Mall, Great George's-St , Mardyke, and St. 
Patrick's-St , on which stands a statne of Father Matliew, 
are the principal avenues. The Queen's College, a 
handsome quadi'angular sirncture m the Tudor-Gothia 
style, is situated on a small lull near the S. fork of the 
stream. St. Ami's Ch. is the most interesting edifice 
in Cork. It contains the " bells of Shandon," of which 
Fadier Prout sang so melodiously. This ch. was built 
ill 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which 
are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 ft. high, 
and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey 
■«vhere James 11. had once heard mass, and from the 



4 CORK. — BLARNEY CASTLE. 

ruins of a castle which had been the official residcDce 
of the lords-president of Munster. The Ch. of thi 
Boly Trinity, founded by Father Mathew, who begai 
liis career as an apostle of temperance in Cork, is wor. 
thy a visit ; and so is the Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar. 
This saint founded a monastery on the site of a heathen 
temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading 
Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town with 
walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken away at 
the close of the 15 th century, because it had received 
Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, with royal honors. 
The charter was restored in 1609. Cromwell's cruel- 
ties in Cork, in the War of the Protectorate, are still 
related by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder 
of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in 
Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching of one 
Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to Henry II. 
in the 12th century by Dermot M'Carthy, Prince of 
Desmond ; but the English invaders were harassed for 
centuries by petty Irish chieftains, and the sentiment 
of independent Irish nationality seems even nowadays 
conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The love- 
ly Victoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on the way 
to Blarney Castle. 

Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by rail 
in 16 min. But the best plan is to take a jaunting-cai 
(about 3s. there and back) by the road on v^e N, bank 
'of the river. The distance is 5 M. Cormac M'Carthy 
built the massive donjon tower, 120 ft. high, and the 
lower portion, in the 15th century ; and the famous 
Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription Cormach 
MacCarthy Fortis Mi Fieri Fecit A. D. 1446, now 
illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting 
buttress at the top of the castle, at the N. angle, sev. 
•ral ft. below the level of \h3 wall, so that the persoH 



IRELAND. 



vho wished to kiss it had to hold on to the bars, and 
project his body forward in most risky fashion. An- 
other stone, marked " 1703/' stands within the tower 
m a place where it is quite accessible to kisses. " The 
Blarney Stone," says Black's Picturesque Tourist of 
Ireland, " had long been a byword among the Irish : 
it IS difficult to conjecture why, unless the glib tono-ues 
of the natives of this locality were supposed to be°not 
the ordinary gift of Nature. But it had not reached 
its full zenith of talismanic power until 1799, when 
Milliken wrote his well-known song of ' The Groves of 
Bkrney.' A curious tradition attributes to the stone 
the power of endowing whoever kisses it with the 
sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible 
m the language of the Cork people, and which is usu- 
ally termed Blarney:' There is an odd story about 
Blarney Lake, a pretty sheet of water, \ M. from the 
castle. It IS said that the Earl of Clancarty, who for- 
feited the property at the Revolution, sank all his fam- 
ilv plate m a certain part of this lake ; that three of thf 
M'Oartliys inherit the secret of the place where tJu. 
treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, communi 
cates It to another of the family, and thus perpetuates, 
the secret, which is never to be made public until a ■ 
M Carthy is again Lord of Blarnev. 

Other Excursions from Qox)^. — To Rostellan 
^asUe and Cloyne, three times daily by steamer to 
Aghada. _ In Bostellan Castle is preserved an ancient 
sword said to have belonged to Brian Boroihme the 
ai?-,estor of the O'Briens. At Cloyne there is a 14th 
ceotury cathedral and a noted " round tower." — To 
JougJtal and the Blackwater. This excursion may be 
mada m a single day by taking an early train from 
Cork tn Youghal (28 M.), .vjience a steamer up the 
beaut^tm Blackwater River to Cappoquin, above whicl 



6 LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

point the stream is not navigable. At Youglial 
(Hotel : Devonshire Anns) is the " Warden's House," 
the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588-89. It 
was there that he entertained Spenser when t1ie poet 
was preparing his "Faerie Qneene" for pnbhcation. It 
was also in Youghal that the first potato was planted 
in Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the traveller 
may take the mail (jaunting-car) to Lismore, one of 
the most ancient towns in Ireland, twice daily (Sundays 
excepted). Castle of tiie Duke of Devonshire, on tiie 
site of the old University ; visitors admitted. From 
Lismore the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min. ; 
from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 min. ; and from Mallow he 
may return to Cork, reaching there in the evening, or 
may go to Killarney. 

Killarney. The Lakes, and Lake Region, 

The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney by rail, 
via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs., 68f M. (lls.6d., 
8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the shortest, but the least inter- 
esting route. For those pressed for time, it is the 
best. By leaving Cork late in the afternoon one may 
reach Killarney in time to get a good night's rest, and, 
starting early on the following morning, may visit the 
most attractive points in the region, getting back to 
Mallow Junction in time to take a night train for Dub- 
lin. But those who are making a more leisurely tour 
will find themselves well repaid for taking either of the 
two routes via Glengariff. One of these leads from 
Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunmanway, and 
thence by coach to Glengariff (jKoc^e's Hotel; Eccles'), 
thence to Kenmare {Lansdoimie Arms), and so on 
through a barren and wild, but picturesque country, 
across the mts., and down to Killarney. The most 



IRELAND. 7 

extensive view of Gleugariff, a ravine about 3 M. long, 
and rich with yew, liolly, and arbutus, is to be had from 
Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge. The 
beautifid grounds around Gleugariff Castle are worth a 
visit. From Glengariif the journey may be extended to 
Bantry Bay, either by land or water. The latter way is 
preferable, alfording an excellent view of the bold coast 
scenery. But we would recommend none of these ex- 
cursions to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely 
favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irisli wet day 
by the sea. Tlie route from Cork to Macroom by raif, 
24 M., and thence by jaunting-car to Glengariif,' Ken- 
mare, and Killarney, is highly spoken of by travellers 
who have recently taken it. Both these above-raentioned 
ways require two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will 
take another half-day. In summer a coach runs from 
Cork to Killarney, in one day, but does not pass through 
the most interesting places. (Fare by this coach, 19s.) 
Macroom is the place where the Irish Bards held their 
meetings, and a fine ivy-mantled castle may be seeu 
there. In the vicinity of Kenmare there are many 
lovely views ; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by 
some considered the most beautiful on the Irish coast. 
Killarney {Royal Victoria Hotel; Raihoay ; Lake; 
/?ww'^a^fe?0. population 5,000, lies about l^M. from the 
N. E. margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. 
It possesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a 
nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls are 
educated. The hotels generally command very good 
views of the lakes and the mts. The town is renowned 
for its beggars; and for the artifice of the peasantry 
in extorting sixpences from travellers, in return foV 
some trifling and entirely superfluous service. Two 
days are required properly to see the lakes, the Gap 
of Dunloe, Muckross A.bbey, and the Tore Cascade; 



S LAKES OF KILLARNEY. 

but if only one day can be given, the best plan is to 
engage a pony and ride from Killarney tlirougli the 
Gap of Dunloe to the head of the Upper Lake, having 
previously ordered a boat to be in readiness at Lord 
Brandon's Cottage on that lake. It is 15 M. from Kil- 
larney to this cottage, and many may prefer to vralk 
rather than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they 
can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes after- 
wards. Arrangements for horses, boats, etc., can usu- 
ally be made at the hotels. The tariff is established by 
local law, and there is no occasion to give more. • 

The first object of interest on the road from Killar- 
ney to the Gap of Dunloe is a hnge county lunatic 
asylum, and the next is the old ruin of Aghadoe, 2|- 
M. from the to-vra. All that remains of the once cele- 
brated castle is a fragment of a tower. Near by' is a 
church, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal 
antiquity, lying E. and W. of each other. The W. 
chapel is in the Romanesque style, and was under the 
patronage of St. Pinian. The E. chapel dates from. 
1158, is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to the 
Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country-houses on 
the road beyond Aghadoe. Lake View Home, on the 
i., is the residence of a brother of the great O'Con^ 
nell ; Beaufort House is attractive ; and Dunloe Castle,^ 
also on the L, is celebrated as having been one of the 
residences of the powerful 0' Sullivan Mor. The pres- 
ent proprietor has restored the castle. About 2 M. 
from the entrance to the Gap is the Cave of Dunloe (in 
a field not far from the road). This cavern was opened 
in 1838 by some laborers digging a ditch, and was 
found to be roofed with impost stones, in the angles of 
■which were inscriptions in the ancient Ogham charac- 
ter, supposed to have been used by the Druids before 
the introduction of Christianity into Ireland. This 



IRELAND, ^ 

venerable storehouse of Irish history will have but 
small interest for the tourist, and he will do well t<r 
press on to the Gap. On his way thither he Vv^iU pas& 
the cabin in which the fair "Kate Kearney " once re- 
sided, and wiU doubtless be invited by oue of her 
descendants to exchange sixpence or a shilling for Et 
mysterious drink of goats' milk and whiskey. 

Of the Gap of Dunloe an Irish writer has said: 
*' It appears as if the vast range of mts., of which this; 
most singular ravine is composed, were cleft in twain- 
by a miglity sword : one is not surprised at its appear- 
ance having given rise to such a tradition." It is a- 
narrow defile 4 M, long, between the range of hills- 
called " Macgillicuddy's Reeks " and the Purple Mt.,. 
a shoulder of the Tomies. Tlie rapid stream called 
the Loe traverses the whole length of the glen, ex- 
panding at various places into five lakes known as- 
the Cummeen Thomeen. The road is a mere bridle, 
path, sometimes on the very edge of precipices, Th& 
peasantry say that it was at the Black Lough, one of the- 
small lakes, that St. Patrick banished the last snake 
from Ireland. Many travellers who are disappointed 
in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just after leaving; 
it, up what is called the Black Valley, extremely im- 
pressive. The Gap is bordered by rocky peaks vary- 
ing from 2,000 to 3,400 ft. in height ; but the vast and 
desolate amphitheatre of the Black Valley, with its 
rugged masses of darkened rock, its circular basins of 
still water filled with dissolved peaty matter, and its 
wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impression of 
grandeur and wonder which its neighbor ravine fails to 
produce. The view down the valley in a warm, hazy 
day is very striking. The water in the lakes throws 
back the light which it receives by reflection from th® 
sky, and thus seems to^ be lighted from below. 



10 1.AKES OF KILLARNEY. 

At numerous points in the Gap and on the Lakey 
there are superb echoes, and tliere is no lack of peas- 
ants to awaken them, and to claim a fee for having 
.done so. A narrow and rugged footpath leads down 
from the head of the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottage^ 
where tbe tourist who lias ordered a boat before leav- 
ing Killarney will find it waiting for liim. It is w^eL 
to iiave lunch provided in the boat, so that one caii 
take it as he is rowed down towards the Middle and 
Xiower Lakes. Erom Lord Brandon's Cottage one 
may ascend Purple Mt. (2,739 ft. liigh), and from 
the summit get a fine view of the Upper and Middle 
Lakes and a long stretch of the sea-coast beyond; but 
this would require half a day at least. 

The Lakes. — Erom the cottage, across the Upper 
Xake, '^\ M., the boatmen row so as to sliow the 
tourist the numerous pretty islands. The first of these 
is M' Carthy s ; the second, Arbutus Island, completely 
covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. 
"The islands in the lakes of Cumberland," says the 
sauthor of Black's Picturesque Tourist, "are either 
grassy holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin 
to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, 
or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle on 
Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane, 
mixed with every other variety of forest trees. The 
islands on the KiUarney Lakes have a totally different 
aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the arbuius 
(^Arbutus unedo'). Even in winter the leaves arc of a 
rich glossy green, and so clustered al the terminations 
of the branches that the waxen, flesh-like flowers, wliicli 
hang in graceful racemes, or the rich crimson, straw- 
i)erry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest ol verdure.'* 
The Upper Lake is thought by most people to be the 
finest of the three. On the S. lie the l)errycunihy mt. 




Map of 
GREAT BRITArN 

AND 

IRELAND 



SRI'STOl^'^ CffAA^jvi 




IKELAND. II 

ranges, ana on the 1. the high " Reeks." The Long^ 
Range is a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connect- 
ing the Upper with the Middle Lake. Tilings to note 
here: Golmans Eye; The Man of War; Ths Four 
Friemls, a group of islets ; The Eagle s Nest, a cliff 
w'-' 'i towers 700 ft. above the river (the echoes heard 
from * his point are remarkably fine) ; Old Weir Bridge^ 
an ancient structure, under which the water rushes 
swiftly. The small boat is carried through at great 
speed, and floats into a still pool called the Meeting 
of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into the 
Middle^ which is also called Muckross, or Tore Lake. 
On Dinish Island there is a cottage where dinner may 
be had, if previously ordered from the hotel in Kil- 
larney in the morning. Tore Cascade can be visited 
from this point; but it will be better to take this in 
conjunction with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little 
farther on. Passing under Brickeen Bridge, the boat 
enters Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. The area= 
of this is about 5,000 acres ; its greatest length 5 M., 
breadth 3 M. There are thirty islands, the principal 
one of which, the Ross, is the location of the last 
stronghold in Muuster that surrendered to the Parlia- 
mentary army. The castle was built in the I4th cen- 
tury, by one of the O'Donoghues. The island of Innis- 
fallen, midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and 
fiction; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, said 
of it that it was " the most beautiful in the king's do- 
rainious, and perhaps in Europe." The ruins of the 
noted abbey are pointed out. The " Annals of Innis- 
fallen," a kind of universal history down to the time of 
St. Patrick, were written in this abbey about 600 year* 
ago. The^ original copy of this curious work is now 
preserved in the Bodleian Library. In 1180 the abbey, 
Bito which all the treasures of the adjacent country 



12 MUCKROSS ABBEY. 

had been gathered for safe keeping, was plundered by 
Mildwin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue. The boatmen 
will tell the traveller quite as much as he will care to 
Lear about the past of " sweet Innisfallen." The part 
of the Lower Lake first entered is called Glena Bay. 
From the shore near Rabbit Island it is but a short 
"walk to 0' Sullivan s Cascade. 

Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on the 
same day as the Gap and Lakes, should arrange with 
their boatmen to land them at the point of the Lower 
Lake nearest to it. From the shore through the 
handsome estate of Mr. Herbert to the abbey is but 
a short walk. The noted rums are those of a ch. 
and abbey, founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602, 
and still in decent preservation. In the ch. are many 
ancient tombs ; among them, those of the O'SuUivans, 
M'Carthys, and O'Donoghue Mor. The arms of a 
gigantic yew-tree support the crumbling wall of a 
beautiful cloister. The trank of the yew is 13 ft. in 
circumference. Tees are not exacted here ; but it is 
■customary to give something. Muckross Abbey Man- 
sion is a fine example of the Elizabethan style of archi- 
tecture. Passing through Mr. Herbert's grounds, the 
dsitor is admitted at a small wicket (fee,-6d.) to the 
enclosure within which is the Tore Cascade. Climb 
up above the fall, which is 60-70 ft. high, and look 
down upon it and out over the lakes. Visitors may, if 
they wish, drive or walk through the grounds of the 
Earl of Kenmaro to Ross Island and Castle. The 
island is connected with the mainland by a dike. 

From Muckross to Killarney the distance is about 
3f M. The entire round trip is not very fatiguing. 
We recommend the tourist to ride the first 11 M. to 
^he Gap ; walk 4 M. through the Gap to Lord Bran- 
don's Cottage; then the 13 M. across the lakes to 



IRELAND. 13 

Mnckross and the 3i M. into Kiliarney can be done 
easily before dark. 

Other Excursions from KiUa.rney.— Ascent of 

Mount Mcmqertoyi (2,756 it.). On the way one 
comes to the''' Devil's Punch Bowl," a mountain tarn 
2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies a basin 28 
acres in extent. Charles James Fox swam around it 
in 1772. Ascevit of the Reehs : interesting, but some- 
w^hat diiRcuU. Journey to Valentia : it is worth a 
day's ride on a jaunting-car to see the mighty waves 
beating against the rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast. 
The train from 

Kiliarney to DubSin 

(time, 7 hrs.; fares, 34, 25, or 16s.) reaches the main 
line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow are the ruins 
of Kilcolman Castle, where Edmund Spenser wrote 
the "Faerie Queene." He obtained, in 1586, a grant of 
land from forfeited estates of the Earl of Desmond, 
on condition that he should inhabit the country. In 
1597 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, to 
whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, and his in- 
fant child perished in the flames which destroyed his 
home. He fled to London, and died of a broken heart. 
At Limerick Junction main line from Dublin to Cork 
is intersected by the Waterford and Limerick line. 

Limerick {Royal Hotel; George; Glentworth), on 
the Shannon, "the noblest of Irish rivers," deserves 
a visit, which can be made in a day, including the re- 
turn to the line to Dublin. Limerick has about 
40,000 inhab., and contains a venerable cathedral 
transformed into a Protestant church, and a noble 
castle built in King John's time. 

Waterford {AdelpM; Imperial) merits a visit, 
but is perhaps too far off the line of the vacatioa 



1 4 WATERFORD. — CASHEL. — DUBLIN. 

tourist. It is a handsome town of 23,000 iuhab., on 
the Suir ; and. was the scene of many terrible fights 
between the Irish and the Danes. Between Limerick 
Junction and DubUn there are many places of histori- 
cal importance. From Gooldi' s-Cross Station it is but 
5 M. across country to the Rock of Cashel, which 
rises 300 ft. above the plain. Cashel was the residencs. 
of the Kings of Munster ; and there Henry II. received 
the homage of Donald, King of Limerick, in 1172. 
Edward the Bruce also held a parliament there. Near 
Thurles are the ruins of Holy -Cross Abbey. Just 
beyond Portarlington the river Barrow is crossed on 
an iron viaduct 500 ft. long. Kildare, " the city re- 
nowned for saints," is 30 M. from Dublin. It pos- 
sesses the ruins of a cathedral ; and the Chapel of St. 
Brigid, caUed the "Mre House" because it is the sup- 
posed location of the fire which nuns kept burning night 
and day for a thousand years " for the benefit of poor 
strangers," is still shown. The " Curragh," an ancient 
race-course, and now used as a military encampment 
and practice ground for soldiers, is just beyond Kil- 
dare. Sham fights are sometimes given there in the 
summer mouths. Near Hazelhatch station is Celbridge 
Abbey, once the residence of Swift's " Vanessa." 

Dublin and Vicinity. 

Two days can be spent to advantage in visiting Dub- 
lin, provided the weather be fair. May, June, and 
August are excellent months for the visit. But the 
hurried tourist can manage to secure a tolerable idea of 
the Irish capital by a ride of 3-4 hrs. on a jaunting-car, 
or by half a day's leisurely walk. Dublin {Shelbowme 
Hotel; Gresham, good but rather dear; Morrison^Si 
Metropole; Imperial; Europeans Abbey; Royal Com' 



IRELAND. 15 

mercial; Edinburgh, temperance) is a city of 420,000: 
inliab., on the river Liifey, which divides it into two 
nearly equal parts, and, shortly below the town, widens 
into a fine bay, on one side of which rises the Hill of 
Howth, and on the other Killiney Hill, near Kingstown, 
Those who do not dread sudden showers should engage 
an open car by the hr. (Is. 4d. for first hr., and 6d. for 
each additional ^ lir.), and drive to the Bank of Ireland, 
Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Christ's Church Cathe- 
dral, St. Patrick's Cathedral, the General Post-Ofiice, 
Nelson's Monument, tlie Custom House, the Pons 
Courts, and finally to Phoenix Park. This will enable 
one to judge pretty well of the main exterior attrac- 
tions. The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as those- 
of London. The fine mall of Sackviile-St., with its cut- 
granite Doric column to Nelson, 131 ft. high, is impos- 
ing, from Carlisle Bridge. The Litfey is navigable to 
this bridge ; but no large vessels come above the 

Custom House, the finest building in the city. It. 
is a handsome quadrangular structure, the principal front 
of which faces the river. Notice the allegorical compo- 
sition in the central portico. It represents Britannia 
and Hiberuia in a marine shell, a group of merchant, 
men approaching, and Neptune driving away famine 
and despair. The dome is 130 ft. high, and bears on its 
summit a statue of Hope. Prom I^elson'? Momment, a 
good view of the city and suburbs may be obtained. Pee 
for ascent, 6d. The statue of the hero is the work of 
a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk ; and the sum of ^6,856,. 
which the memorial cost, was raised by subscription- 
among Nelson's Irish admirers. The '^General FosU 
Office has a majestic Ionic portico, surmounted by 
ligures of Hiberuia, Mercury, and Pidelity. 

The Four Courts, on "^King's Inn Quay, is the 
name of a handsome building, in which are the Court& 



16 DUBLIN. 

of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Excheqiier, and Commoi* 
Pleas. It was begun on the site of an old Dominican 
monastery in 1776, and was completed just at the time 
of the union of the two nations. Cost about J200,000. 
The facade on the river is 450 ft. lon^. The great cir- 
cular hall in the centre is lighted by jets of gas, which 
issue from a torch borne in the hands of a gigantic figure 
of Truth. New buildings for the accommodation of the 
Land Courts have recently been erected near by. 

Fiicenix Park contains 1,750 acres, fairly well laid 
out. luterestiug reviews of troops are sometimes held 
there. Monuments in the Park. — The Wellington Tes- 
timonial, erected in 1817, at a cost of .£20,000, by 
the Iron Duke^s fellow-townsmen of Dubhn. This 
quadrangular, truncated obelisk of Wicklow granite 
has sunken panels on each side of its pedestal, contain- 
ing relievos in metal, three representing military pieces 
■and the fourth containing the laurel-crowned head of 
-the hero himself. The battles in which the Duke took 
part are inscribed here, and the bap-reliefs are made 
from captured cannon. — The Carlisle Memorial Statue, 
by Foley, in commemoration of Lord Carlisle's 8 years 
of vice-regency. On the r., near the entrance of the 
park, is the Military Hospital, and a little farther on 
the Constahulary Barracks. Within the park limits the 
Lord-Lieutenant has a summer residence. Zoological 
Garden (admission, Is. ; on Sun., 2d.), not far away. 

On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passing from 
Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland-St., at the E. 
side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore, one 
comes to the Bank of Ireland, in College Green. This 
was once used as the Parliament House. It was com- 
pleted in 1787, at a cost of £95,000, but was purchased 
in 1802 by the company of the Bank of Ireland for 
^40,000 and an anni^ai reiitaj of .^'240. The entrance 



IRELAND. IT 

to the lormer House of Lords was by a portico on the 
E. side. Tlie House of Lords (visitors admitted) re- 
mains unaltered, except that a statue of Geoi'ge III. 
occupies the site of the tlirone. Old tapestries, rep- 
resenting the " Siege of Derry " and " King WiUiam 
Crossing the Boyne," are worthy of notice, as is also 
the mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo- 
site the bank is Trinity College ; and on either side of 
the entrance to it are the famous Statues of Goldsmith 
and Burke, by Foley. Trinity was founded in Pope 
John XXII.'s time, and was closed in Henry VIII. 's 
reign, but opened again by Elizabeth, who erected it into 
a corporation. In 1637 a new code of laws was framed 
for it. Tiie civil wars of tlie Protectorate brought its 
fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I. and Charles II, 
endowed it liberally. The institution, vvrhich is open t(> 
all creeds, usually assembles about 1,400 students, and 
has educated some of the most renowned of modern wits. 
The Museum contains Brian Boroihme's harp and the 
charter-horn of King O'Kavanagli ; the noble dining- 
ftall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord Avon- 
more, Chief Justice Downs, Elood, Lord Kilwarden, 
Prince Frederick, father of George III., and Lord 
Cairns. Hewitson's fine monument to Provost Bald- 
win, in the building on the r, of the first courtyard, 
should be seen. The library contains nearly 300,000 
volumes, and in the E. end is a very valuable collection 
known as the "Fagel Library." Note the Geological' 
Museum and Lecture Rooms, in College Park. On 
College Green there is an equestrian statue in lead of 
William III., erected in 1701 ; and a statue of Grattan. 
Dublin Castle requires but slight notice. Nearly 
all trace of its original design is now lost. The Vice- 
i regal Chapel and Apartments, St. Patrick's Hall, the 
Portrait Chamber, and the Private Drawing Uoom ar© 



18 DUBLIN. 

slioY/n by rue attendants for small gratuilies, except 
during " the season." The slaiiu'd-g-biss windows oi" 
the chapel contain the anus of all the Ijord-Lieutenants, 
Good music in this cliapel Sunday forenoons. Band 
plays in tho courlyard mornings. 

Bt. Patrick'.^ Cathedral occupies the site of a reli 
gious eiiiiice l)iii]t by St. Pntrick himself, near the well 
in wiiich he baptized his converts. The present l3uild- 
ing wr.s begun by Archbishop Comyn in 1190, and 
restored and mncli improved, after the destruction of a. 
portion of it by lire, under tlie care of Ai'chbishop 
Minot, in 1370. Monuments worth notice niside : 
one to Boyle, Earl of Cork ; and one to the Duke of 
Schomberg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long- 
Dean of the cathedrah Two marble slribs mark the- 
resting-places of Swift and his " Stella " (Mrs. Hester 
Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the })rewer, had the 
cathedral repaired and restored in 1860-63, at a cost 
of £140,000. The Lady Chapel was used by George 
IV. as Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick. 

Christ's Church Cathedral is of ancient founda- 
tion ; but the present structure is comparatively niodem. 
It was first erected in 1038, and enlarged in later days- 
by Strongbow and Pitzste])hpn, and still later by Ray- 
mond-le-Gros. It Avas in Christ Church that the lit- 
urgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. 
Note Earl Strongbow's monumental tomb. The local 
guides will tell you the vailous conflicting reports con- 
cerning its authenticity. This edifice, like St. Patrick's, 
owes its restoration to a vender of strong drink, wliO' 
expended £200,000 on it. Stephen s Green is a hand- 
some square surrounded with fine mansions. On the 
W. side is the Royal College of Surgeons^ erected in 
1806-25. Museum: good collection. E. side: Royal 
College of Science. In centre of Green, a statue of 



IKlTLAND. 1^ 

Geoige II., by Van Nast. S. side : tlie Catholic Uui- 
vei'sity, the palace of the Archbisliop of Dublin, and 
the Shelbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the pal- 
ace in which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 was held. 
It was purchased by Sir Arthur and E. C. Guinness, 
and devoted to the public benefit. It contains one 
concert hall capable of seating 3,000 persons. 

Other Literesting Sights in Dublin. — The Royal 
Hibernian Academy, erected in 183J; for the promotion 
of the fine arts (exhibition opens in February ; closes in 
July). The National Gallery, with a statue of Dargaii 
in front on the N. side of Leinster Lawn. Merrion- 
Row and Merrion-St. : the house in which Weliingtoa 
was born in 1769 ; and at 30 Merrion- Square, the 
mansion where Daniel O'Connell resided for some 
years. Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St. 
Royal Dublin Society, and King's and Queen's College 
of Physicians, in Kildare-St. The City Hall, with 
Hagan's statue of O'Connell inside. The Corn Ex- 
change, the meeting-place of the National Council ia 
1833, and of the Repeal Association later on. Con- 
ciliation Hall, now a corn store, but the scene of many 
of O'Conaell's triumphs. Theatre Royal, Hawkins-St. 
The Roplin Manufactories : Dublin poplins are famous ; 
and the industry is rapidly reviving. 

Excursions from Dublin. — - To Glasn^vin Cem- 
etery, where are graves and fine monuments of O'Con- 
nell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. Botanic 
Gardens, near by. — Dublin to Hoioth : Several trains 
daily. Distance, 9 M. The peninsular Hill of Howl h 
is the first landmark sighted on approaching Dublin 
from the sea. The route leads past Clontarf the seene 
of Brian Boroihme's last victory over the Danes, to 
Hov^th, a pleasant village on the hill. Erom the har- 
bor au excursion in boat may be made to the island of 



20 DEOGHEDA. — BRAY. 

"Ireland's "Eye." Boatman's fee, 2s. The Abbey ol 
Howtli is pleasantly located on a steep overhanging 
the ocean. On the Hill of Howtli stands an ancient 
Cromlech, a huge oblong stone, abont 14x12, supported 
on numerous others. It is supposed to be a portioic 
of a sepulchral monument to a de);)arted chief. — ■ 
Malahide {Royal Hotel), 9 M. from Dublm, has a 
notable castle and abbey. The altar-tomb m the 
ruined abbey is a memorial of the sad history of the 
lady who in one day was " maid, wife, and widow,'* 

— the daughter of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda (Jni' 
ferial Hotel), \\ hrs. by rail from Dublin. This was 
the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649, and was 
carried by assault, led by the Protector himself. 
Drogheda was also the scene of the " Battle of the 
Boyne," fouglit, July 1, 1690, between the Prince of 
Orange and his father-in-law, James II. An obelisk 
150 ft. high marks the spot where William began tlie 
attack and where Scliomberg fell. Prom Di'ogheda, 
Tara and Kells may be visited. 

From Dublin to Brai/ and the Wickloio Mts. is a 
charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin {Ma^ 
riiie Hotel; International), beautifully situated; head- 
quarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 2s.), to the 
Waterfall (car, 4s.), to the Glen of the Downs (car, 
3s. 6d.), to Greystones (car, 4s. 6d.). Prom Bray to 
the Devil's Glen, the Seven Churches, and the Vale 
of Avoca, where "the bright waters meet," is a prof- 
itable journey. Go by rail from Bray to Rathnew 
■Stat., from Rathnew by car to Devil's Glen, from 
Devil's Glen by car to the " Meeting of the Waters,'* 
in all about 38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M. 

— From Bray to Wickloio, along the coast by rail, — • 
desirable journey in bright w^eather. The Wicklow 
Mt. section is rich in quiet beauty ; the rly. fares along 



IRELAND. ^t 

the coast are moderate, and car-dr'vers must be held to 
the tariff. Purchase one of the excellent local guides, 
for descriptions of the scenery. 

If the tourist decides to go to Wales and England 
via Dublin and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via 
the Nori/i JFall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kings- 
town for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tour- 
ists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to 
Kiugsto^vn, 6 M.; thence across the Irish Channel, 66 
M., 4 hrs. There are two through services to London 
daily, — one leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening ; the other 
at 6.45, morning. Tourists who wish to make the jour- 
ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the even- 
ing, and sleep on the boat which is to start next 
morning. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can 
breakfast at their leisure, — if the Irish Channel leaves 
them any leisure. 

Kingstown {Royal Marine Hotel ; Anglesea Arms) 
is so called because George IV. landed there on a visit 
to Ireland. An obelisk commemorates the royal land- 
ing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres. 
Before the present admirable system of " Irish Lights '* 
was completed, many serious accidents to shipping oc- 
curred near Kingstown. 

We give a few fp.res from various points in Ireland 
to the starting-points in England via Kingstown, as 
tourists' plans vary widely. Eare from Queenstown 
direct to Liverpool, Birkenhead, or Chester, 48s., 35s. 
6d ; from Queenstown to London direct, 69s. 6d., 
52s; from Dublin to London direct, 60s., 45s; from 
Dublin to Liverpool, Chester, or Birkenhead, 30s., 
23s. 6d.; from Dublin to Manchester, 33s. 6d., 25s. 
The fares to all these places via the North Wall route 
to Holyhead from Dublin are considerably lower, — 
from Queenstown to Chester, via North Wall, 38s., 



22 MAYNOOTH. — A UBUKN. 

28s.; from Dublin to Chester or Liverpool, via Nortl 
Wall, 20s., 15S.1 _ 

If the weather is fine, some interesting views on the 
Irish and Welsli coasts may be had during the crosshig 
to Holyhead. The mail packets, TJlster, Munster, 
Leinster, and Conncmght, are remarkably strong, swift, 
and spacious. 

From Dublin to Galway. 

This route takes one from the E. to the "wild west 
coast," in 5| hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., lis. lOd.); 
distance, 126| M. Glasnevin, wliere Addison, Swift, 
Tickell, Sheridan, and other celebrities resided ; and 
Maynooth, where there is a castle erected in 1426 by 
the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Pat- 
rick, — are interesting. At MtilUngar are the remains 
€f an Augustine priory. AiJiIone is an important mili- 
tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossea 
by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the 
Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. Athenry is 
iin ancient town, witli ruined castellated gates, walls, 
and religious establishments. At Oranmore a view of 
Galway Bay and the Islands of Arran may be obtaiued. 
Ei'om Atliloiie a car may be taken to Auhirn, 8 M. 
(fare, 6d. per M.). Auburn is "The Deserted Village " 
of Goldsmith, and its real name is Lishoy ; but since the 
famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always 
retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is 

^ The summer tourist in Ireland will find it to his advan- 
tage to purcliase tlie monthly time-tables (price, 2d.) of the 
London and Northwestern, and Midland Klys. These ex. 
celleut books contain a great variety of infoi'mation about 
circular tom-s in Ireland, in connection with the above-men- 
tioued lines. 



IRELAND. 22^ 

|Le ruiiiecl parsonage, wliere tlie Rev. Clmrles Goldsmitli, 
ihe original of Dr. Primrose in the " Vicar of Wake- 
deld," struggled for the maintenance of his large family. 
Galway {RailiDuy Hotel, at the station ; Roijai) 
is a quaint old town, ratlier Spanish in appearance, with 
wide gateways, broad stairs, and many other evidences 
of the predominance of Spanisli ideas in former times. 
Eor a long period during and after the l^th century, ex- 
tensive t'-ade was carried on between Spain and Galway, 
and Irish merchants made frequent and protracted 
visits to Spain. Some of the residences of the mer- 
chant princes of old days are now tenement houses, occu- 
pied by the very poorest and lowest class. Queen's 
College is a hanclsome Gothic structure, built of gray 
limestone. Galway Bay is the finest in Ireland ; 
and the distance to St Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,635 
M. The "Western Highlands of Connemara, 
and the County Clare, including the region rendered 
famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants 
in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. The 
road from Galway to CUfden and Westport, 88 M. 
(car fares about i4s. 6d.), passes through the most at- 
tractive part of the region. "Westport {Railway Hotel ; 
Co/memara) is a pretty town ; and the domain of the 
Marquis of Sligo should be visited. See Clare Island, 
the ancient residence of Grace O'Malley. 

Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant's 
Causeway, etc. 

In leaving Dubhn for this excursion, the trareller 
must consider whether he intends to return to Dubliu 
and cross to England ma Kingstown and Holyhead, or 
to cross from Belfast to Glasgow or Liverpool or 
Fleetwood. If he means to come back to Dublin, let hinor 



24 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 

proceed thence directly to Portrush, wliieh is the 
nearest station to The Gianf^ Causeicay, Dunluce 
Castle, etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s., 
23s. 8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Mcdahide; The 
Skerries, where Saint Patrick is said to have taken, 
shelter when he was pursued by the Druids; Bal- 
hriggan, famous for its stocking factories; Brog- 
heda; Dundalk, where Edward Bruce was crowned 
King of Ireland; Portadoivn Junction; Lurgan, a 
fiouiishing ,town engaged in linen manufactories; 
Belfast; Antrim, not far from Lough Neagh; 
and Colerojine, long noted for the fineness of its 
linens. 

Portrush (JVorthern Counties Railway; Oshorne^s; 
Leek's; Portrush) is a pleasant watering-place. The 
Causeway may be reached by the electric tramway 
passing through Bushmills, or by jaunting-car. On 
tlie v,ay the tourist passes Dunluce Castle, unques- 
tionably one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe. 
It is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock about 
100 feet above the sea. The surface of tlie rock is 
entirely covered by the ruins of what must have been 
an impregnable stronghold. A single wall, not more 
than 18 inches broad, connects the castle with the 
mainhtnd. Sea view very fine here. Fee, 6d. to Is., 
according to size of party. "The White Rocks," in 
which there are many fantastic caverns, are not far 
from Dunluce. 

The Giant's Causeway. — On arriving engage 
guide at the Causeway Hotel. The basaltic rocks are 
abundant along the coast here,but the most interesting 
formations occur between Port coon Cave, on the W., 
and Dunseverick Castle, on the E. If the tourist has 
time, he should take the circuit first in a boat, and then 
visit the more important of the curiosities by land. 
See the Causeways, Little, Middle, and Great ; the 
Giant's Gatev/ay; Giant's Organ ; Chimney Tops; the 



IRELAND. 25 

Priest and his Flock ; the Pieaskin ; and the Hen and 
Chickens. There is a route from tlie Giant's Cause- 
way to Belfast by the coast road, recommended only 
to those in no hurry. A Vr'hole day must be given to 
the trip from Portrush to the Causeway and return. 

Londonderry {Jury's Hotel; Imperial; CGmmer-- 
clal; City ; Northern) is on the river Foyle. Me- 
morials of the historic "Siege of Derry" are numer- 
ous, iiscend the tower of the Cathedral. The old 
walls of the town are still preserved as a promenade. 
From Liondonderiy to Portrush it is 3 hrs. by rail 
(7s. 6d., 5s. Cd., c!s. 8d) ; from Portrush to Belfast it 
is 3 to 4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s. 4d.). 

Belfast {Imperial; Prince of Wales; Royal) will 
remind American visitors of some of our own thriv- 
ing man ufacturmg towns; and the contrast betvfeen 
its smartness and vivacity and the dulness and 
languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be 
rcjuarked at once. In 40 years the population has 
increased from 87,000 to 260,000. Two-thirds of 
the inliabitants arc Protestants. The town stands 
on the property of the Marquis of Donegal; and it is 
said that but for long leases granted by the former 
proprietor, the income of that nobleman from the 
town alone would amount to £300,000. Belfast is 
situated on the Lagan, near the elongated bay Icnown 
as Belftist Lough. The port is 130 M. from Ghisgow, 
and 156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of* 
the town signifies "the mouth of the ford." The 
new clocks are very fine. On the Queen's Island 
is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly 
2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are built 
there. Buildings to notice: Presbyterian Ck., Rose- 
mary-St.; Royal Academical Institution and Govern- 
ment School of Art; Commercial Buildings; Ulster- 
Panic; Belfast Bank; Custom House, High-St,, and- 



J 6 BELFAST. 

Albert Square ; the Harbor Office ; the Linen Hall, 
-with the Belfast Libra.ry ; Qiieen^s College, reached b_v 
-the Botanic Road ; Preshi/terian College, University 
.Square ; Methodist College. Other thiugs to see : Bo- 

.Minic Gardens, tlie Cooke statue, Belfast Museum, and 
The Flax Mills and Linen IVarehouses. Visitors are 
readily admitted to most of tlie mills. 

Excursions from Belfast. — To Cave Llill ; to the 
Gianf s Ring ; to Dundalk ; to Bangor, the chief water- 
ing-place for the inhabitants of Belfast ; and to Lord 
.Diift'erin's estate of Clandeboye, 9 M. from the city. 

The traveller now has his choice cf various route* 
for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go direct from 
Belfast to Greenock or Glasgow, he can do so by the 
Royal Mail Steamship Line, daily service (Sun. ex- 
cepted); time, 8 lirs.; fare, 12s. 6d. x je routes by sea 
Crom Belfast to Liverpool and to London can only be 
recommended to those who have a passion for sea 

-travel. Fare to Liverpool, 12s. 6d.; to London, 25s. 
A boat leaves Belfast every evening (Sin. excepted), 

.at 7.45, for Barrow-in-Furness ; fare, 12s. 6d. Through 
tickets to London (45s. 6d. or 21s. 3d., by the Mid- 
land Ptly., 1st and 3d class only) are also sold, by this 

^ Barrow route, from various points along which the 

. English Lake Region may be visited. 

Ireland covers 32,393 square M., a little less than 
Maine, South Carolina, and Indiana ; and has upwards 
of 5,000,000 inhab., | of whom are Roman Catholics. 
It was Christianized by St. Patrick, in 432. Perpetual 

,=*ivil wars raged from the 8th to the 12th century. In 
1.172 England conquered much of Ireland, and discon- 

^ut has been chrouie ever since. 



NORTH WALES. 



NORTH WALES. 

TTOLYHEAD {N.-Western) affords a picturesque. ■ 
•*•■*• introduction to some of the most romantic por- 
tions of Wales. Those not obh'ged to proceed at 
once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, can spend 
2-3 days with pleasure and profit at points along the 
line. Holyhead stands on Holy Island, divided by 
a small strait from Anglesea, 'and takes its nam^e 
from a monastery founded in the 6th century. Good 
view from the hill of the rocky sliores, the .harbor of 
refuge, and the massive breakwater. The promon- 
tory of the head is hollowed by the ocean into- 
-taverns, which afford shelter to myriads of seafowl. 
Tliere are important Roman remains here. The Ch. 
was erected in Edward III.'s time. The neighboi'ing" 
island of Anglesea, rich in minerals, was a principal, 
seat of Druidical super,stition. It was conciuered 
with the rest of Wales by Edward i. The Britannia 
Tubular Brid,ge, one of the wonders of Great 
Britain, is crossed about 21 M. from Holyhead. 
This, as well as the Menai Bridge, may be visited 
from Bangor. Engineers will be interested in the 
Conway and Britannia bridges, and in noting how 
the idea that budded in the first structure has fully 
blossomed in the later and larger one. See Smiles's 
' ' Lives of the Engineers " for a description of the man- 
ner in which the two Stephensons worked out their 
thought; how "the great originator of the railway 
system watched with pleased attention the processes 
by which the son made quite certain of each step.'' 
The vast tubes were not placed where they now rest 
without enormous painstaking and trouble. One of 
the spans is 473 ft. in length, and, as it is com.posed 



'28 BANGOR. 

entirely of iron, expands and contracts with the changes 
of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends of 
the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus maintain 
the line of rail perfect. The Britannia Bridge* is 
more than 100 ft. above the water-level. T/i^ Menai 
Suspension Bridge, 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also a stu- 
pendous work. Its greatest span from point to poinf 
IS 560 ft., ^ and its elevation above the water-Avay at 
the higliest tide is 100 ft. It is the longest suspension 
bridge in England or Wales. It was built in the old 
coaching days, in the early part of the century. After 
crossing this bridge, you have left the island of An- 
glesey and are on the mainland. 

Bangor {George; Railway; Williams'' Temper- 
mice ; Castle) lies in a valley between tw^o great rocky 
ridges. On the N. is the pretty bay of Beaumaris. See 
Cathedral, with monuments of numerous Welsh prin- 
ces ; the palace of the Bishop of Bangor, and charitable 
institutions ; and walk to the Menai Bridge. Mt. 
-scenery fine. The cathedral was built in the 6th 
century, destroyed by the Anglo-Normans in the 11th, 
rebuilt in the 12th, and burned by Owen Gv/yndwr in 
1402. The present structure dates from the 16th cen- 
tury, and is a massive construction, with a tower o* 
moderate height. Bangor is in the oldest diocese in 
Wales. In the vicinity is a slate quarry of immense 
extent, in which as many as 2,000 persons are at times 

1 The Tubular Bridge cost £620,000. It is 1,500 ft. in 
length, and raised sufficiently liigh to allow ships with high- 
est masts to- pass beneath it. It consists of a wrought-iron 
tube made of plates riveted together, 1,513 ft. long. 1,800 
men. were employed for 4 years on its construction. The 
iwhp? vfern first riveted together, floated out on pontoons, 
:anct then raised into their places by hydraulic pressure. The 
-whole weight is over 10.000 tons., _ 



NORTH WALES. 29 

employed. See tlie castle of Lord Peurliyn, in whose 
family the quarries are owned. 70,000 tons of slate 
are yearly shipped from Vort Penrhyn. 

The rly. now skirts the shore of Beaumaris Bay ; 
passes through Peiimaenmawr, near which is a mt. of 
the same name, 1,540 ft. high ; through the Penbacli 
Tunnel; and, just before reaching Conway, traverses 
the Conway Tubular Bridge, erected by Stephenson 
an 1848. It consists of two hollow rectangular tubes 
of wrought-iron plates, for the up and down trains, 
each measuring 400 ft. and weighing 1140 tons. 
Conway {Castle Hotel) has a castle which entitles 
it to the American pilgrim's earnest attention. This 
superb ruin is situated on a rock, guai'ded on two 
sides by the Conway River. It was built by Edward I. 
During the civil wars this oblong fortress, flanked bj 
eight embattled towers, was garrisoned for the King, 
But the Parliamentary army took it. Charles II. gave 
it to the Earl of Conway, who stripped off the precious 
stores of timber, iron, and lead. It now belongs to the 
Marquis of Hertford. The massive walls of the town, 
with their towers and gateways, are still in good condi- 
tion. Among the odd old houses in Conway is one 
erected in 1577 by Bobert Wynne, which is worth a 
visit. In the Cli. there are several monuments to 
members of the Wynne family. See The College in 
Castle-St., now inhabited by poor families. On the s 
S. E. side of Great Orme's Head, 4 M. by rail from 
Conway, is the fashionable watering-place of Llan- 
dudno. 

Tourists who have a few days to spend in jSTortli 
Wales can make a variety of interesting excursions 
from Bangor or Conway. From the former point they 
may visit Caernarvon (Hotel : Royal Sportsynan), an 
ancient town, situated partly on the Menai Strait and 



so CAERNARVON. — SNOWDON. 

partly on tlie estuary of tlie Seiont. Caernarvon's cliief 
object of interest is the castle erected by Edward I, 
There Edward II., the first English Prince of Wales 
was born. The external walls of the castle are nearly 
10 ft. thick. ^ Near the Seiont formerly stood a strong 
fort, long a residence of the British ]jrinces. The view 
from the Eagle Tower is remarkably good. See the 
Terrace, outside the town w'alls, also Druidical circles 
in the neighborhood. It is not quite 9 M. by rail from 
Bangor to Caernarvon, and in good weather a tramp 
along the highway between the two towns will be found 
enjoyable. From Caernarvon the Snowdonian region is 
easy of access. Roman ruins abound in the vicinity ; 
see site of the Roman station of Segontium. Llanberis, 
from which point Snowdon (3,571 ft. high) may be 

1 Caernarvon Castle, soys an historian, is a " stupendous 
irionumeut of ancient grandeur." It occupies the whole W. 
end of the town. Some years ago it seemed as if fast going 
to I'uin ; its ivy-clad walls appeai-ed to be yielding to the 
ravages of time, yet withal retaining a romantic singularity 
of their own ; and in 1828 the Eagle Tower — the largest of 
all — was struck by lightning, which cj'acked the w^alls sev- 
ei'al yards, and displaced large masses of stone. But great 
pains have since been taken to restore the fabric ; and it 
stands before us to-day a grand and beautiful structure. On 
two sides it is washed by the sea, on the third it was of yore 
protected by a ditch, and on the fourth it was shut in by 
the town. Caernarvon is. probably only about | M. from 
the site of Segontium, the principal Roman station in North 
Wales. The castle became the headquarters of the English 
after the Conquest by Edward, and here he had the treasury 
for the taxes exacted from his "Welsh subjects. The Eagle 
Tower — so named from the figure of the bird standing on 
the summit — occupies one end of the oblong court, and has 
■*'ree turrets rising from it 



NORTH WALES. 51 

ascended, is reached by rail from Caernarvon. Llanberis 
and Nant Ffrancon are two of the finest passes in. 
Wales, and the latter is especially beautiful. The road 
through it winds under frowning precipices ; and Lake 
Ogwen's inky-black water breaks throiigh a chasm 
in the rock into numerous cascades, some of them 100 
ft. high, that find their way into the rich vale extending, 
N. to Bethesda and Bangor. A good trip would be- 
from Bangor to Caernarvon ; thence to Llanberis and; 
througli the Pass to Capel Curig ; thence to Bettws- 
y-Coed, the " Station in the Wood," a delicious sylvan 
retreat, where Coe painted some of his most beautiful 
pictures. Near by are the Falls of the Conway. ■ 

Returning to the main line, the tourist will find but 
two or three other points worthy notice between Con- 
way and Chester. Abergele' (Bee Hotel) is near 
Cave Hill, where there is a fine natural cavern ; and 
the mt.-pass in which the Welsh defeated Ilarold 
and, later on, massacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs, 
Hemans lived for many years at Abergele. In 1868 a 
frightful rly. accident, by which 33 persons were burned 
to death, occurred near this stat. Rhyl (Queen's 
Hotel ; Belvoir) is a pretty watering-place. A branch 
rly. runs thence to the little Welsh cathedral-town of 
St. Asaph ; and to Denbigh, a venerable hill-town 
with many very quaint old houses, and a stately ruined 
castle, on the hill. At Holywell the famous St. Wini- 
fred's Well is to be seen. Flint Castle, on a rock by 
the sea, was once the prison of Ricliard II. 13 M. 
beyond the train crosses the Dee, leaving Wales. 



32 CHESTER. 



ENGLAND. 

^Q^KBSTIIR {Grosve7ior Hotel ; Quee?i's, at the rly, 
^*^ Stat.; Blossom's y and others more or less good). 
The curious features of this delightful town may b(j 
seen in a single day (or, with the aid of a carriage, iii 
3-4 hrs.). The traveller who has not already made uj 
his mind should here decide whether he will go directly 
to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and thence to 
Scotland. To those who contemplate making an ex- 
tensive tour on the Continent, and returning to the 
British Islands only late in September or October, we 
would recommend a trip from Chester to Liverpool, 
and thence, after having seen tlie siglits in that city and 
in Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes and 
:Scotch mts. But many persons will probably like to 
go to London and the Continent at once^ for a season, 
returning N. in August and resuming our TLngluh and 
Scotch ithierary from Chester or Liverpool. 

Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is suffi- 
ciently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy the most 
curious of Transatlantic travellers. Some kind of town 
existed on this site before the Roman invasion, but it 
was the Romans who made the definite foundation. 
They chose this place as one of their principal military 
stations, called it the " City of the Legions," and made 
it the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls still 
occupy the same ground and carry out the identical plan 
chosen and arranged by the Roman leaders. Chester 
was laid waste in the early part of the 7th century by 
.yEthelfritli, King of the Northumbrians : and then the 
mem.orials of the Roman sojourn were greatly injured. 
Tor nearly three centuries Chester lay in ruins. la 



ENGLAND. 35 

907 Alfred the Great's daughter, Ethelfleda, restored 
the ruined walls which the Danes had from time to 
time used as temporary strongholds ; and from that 
day Chester became important in English history. It 
was the very last city to hold out against William the 
Conqueror; and a nephew of the great Norman was 
\nade Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. Ches- 
ter was especially prominent in the Civil War as the 
first city to declare for Charles, and the last to yield to 
the Parliamentary forces. 

A Walk around the Old "Walls may be begun at 
East Gate, near the Grosvenor or Blossom's Hotel. 
Going N. one comes first to the Cathedral (described 
%elow). Next beyond it, at the angle of the walls 
where they turn W. to the North Gate, is the Fhmiiv 
fotoer, on which Charles I. stood, during the battle of 
Kowton Moor and gazed on the defeat of his 
army, Sept. 24, 1845. See inscription. Under the 
walls at this point is the Shropshire Union Canal, cut 
in the solid rock. Moving on towards the North 
Gate, the original Roman walls, terminating in a cor- 
nice 6 ft. below the parapet, may be seen. From this 
gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh mts. and 
of Wavertou and Christleton clis. Just outside the 
gate is an ancient Blue Coat Hospital. A little far- 
ther on, from a square building on the r, side of the 
wall, there is a view of the river and the sea, Flint 
Castle, the Training College, etc.- Another tower, 
once known as the Goblin's, but now called Pember- 
ton's Parlor, comes next. It beais a mutilated inscrip- 
tion about the " glorious reign of Anne." The Water 
Tower, as its name indicates, was once closely ap- 
proached by ships ; but the river is now a long way 
from the walls. This part of the fortifications was 
bombarded by Cromwell in 1645. Within the tower 



M CHESTER. 

is a museum ; on its summit, a telescope. See railway 
viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near this point. 
The City Jail is an imposing structure. From the 
Ji-^aier Gate note the Uhoodee race-course, and beyoncf 
the river the fine villas of Curzon Park. Grosvenoi 
Bridge, which spans the stream, has a span of 200 ft, 
Over the river, in TLdgars Field, is a statue of Pallas. 
The Castle, next approached, is a noble pile, erected in 
the last century on the site of the ancient one. " Caesar's 
Tower " is the only remnant of the old structure. See 
near the Castle the Combermere Mo7mment and the 
Shire Ball. Drill in the Castle yard afternoons. 
AValk on over the Bridge Gate, rebuilt in 1782, to 
New Gate (1608), and thence to East Gate. Outside 
tlie Avails, between Bridge and East Gates, is the Ch. 
of St. John the Baptist, founded in 689, and rebuilt 
in 1574. 

*The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century, 
and the clioir and central tower were finished in the 
early years of the 13th. The lady cliapel, refectory^ 
and chapter-house are said to have been constructed 
1200-1230. Many portions were greatly altered in 
the period between' 1485 and 1537. The ch. is almost 
entirely built of red sandstone, plentiful in the district. 
The restorations carried on for several years past 
have proved highly successful. The E. portion is an 
excellent example of Early English style. The choir is 
betmtjful : note the Gothic work at the sides ; also the 
richly carven Gothic screen of stone, wliich separates 
the nave from the choir ; the bishop's throne, formed 
by the shrine of St. Werburgh of miraculous mem- 
ory ; and the black and white marble pavement in the 
choir. The W. front, though unfinished, is the best. 
The lector's pulpit in the refectory ; the colors of tlie 
22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, in the 



ENGLAND. 35 

chapter-house; aud tbe great W. window of the nave» 
should be remarked. The stained-glass windows are 
modern. The cathedral's interior is not so imposing 
IS its exterior. Tradition says that a Roman temple to 
Apollo once stood on the site. The foundation of two 
towers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The Rows, 
covered avenues or galleries through the fronts of the 
second stories of the houses in Eastgate, Watergate, 
Northgate, and Bridge Sts. (the old Roman ways), are 
one of the most striking features of Chester.^ Old 
Houses, remarkable for their curious carvings and for 
historical associations, are very numerous in Chester. 
Note tlie palace of the Earls of Derby, near the Water 
Gate ; and on Lower Bridge-St., leading from Bridge 
Gate, the house in which Charles I. resided during the 
siege. A Roman sweating-bath may be seen in one of 
Vhe houses of the Bridge-St. Row. There are several 
Roman crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an- 
cient buildings. 

Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the Duke 
of Westminster, is 3 M. from Cliester. Tickets of ad- 
mission to the grounds and mansion may be had for 

^ Pennant says : " These Roios appear to me to have been 
the same with tbe ancient vestibules, and could have been a 
form of building preserved from the time that the city was 
possessed by the Romans. They were the places where de- 
pendants watched for the coming out of their patrons, and in 
which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expecta- 
tion. Plautus, in the third act of his Mosfel/aria, describes 
both their station and use. The shops beneath the Rows 
were the cryptee and apothecse, magazines for the various 
necessaries of the owners of the houses." Many of the Row* 
to-day form two ten-aces, the shops one above the other, 
the galleries being reached by flights of steps at conyenieiit 
distances. 



36 LIVERPOOL. 

a small sum at the Grosvenor Hotel and of the news* 
dealers. The house is an elaborate structure, with a 
great number of pinnacles and turrets, and is 460 ft. 
long. The walk thither, over Grosvenor Bridge and 
through the Park, entering by a gateway copied from 
the Abbey Gate at Canterbury, is very interesting. 
The marble floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas. 
There are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall. 

Liverpool. 

Prom Chester important lines of railway radiate in 
all directions. The traveller may proceed to Liver, 
pool, -via Runcorn, crossing the celebrated Runcorn 
Bridge ^ and its viaducts, and arriving at the Lime-St. 
terminus of the London and Northwestern Railway 
(fare, 3s. ; time, a little more than half an hour) ; or 
he may go from Chester to Birkenhead, and cross from 
this latter place to Liverpool by ferry (time and fare 
about the same, but scenery uninteresting) ; or he may 
walk through Eastham, Bebington, etc., to Rock 
Eerry, and there cross to Liverpool. We recommend 
the walk to Chester y;-o»/ Liverpool for those who have 
made their first entry into Europe at the great seaport. 
If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their eesthetic 
sense, and disappointed their expectations of romance 
in Europe, Chester will re-establish tlieir enthusiasm. 

^ The entire length of this structure is 2J M. The 
bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Viaduct, carried by 
S3 arches, I of 23 ft. span, 29 of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61 
ft. span. The viaduct is carried over the river Mersey at s 
height of 80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. span, each supported 
upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a distance of 27§ 
chains. The total cost of the structure was £422,400, of 
which £41,800 was paid for land.. 



ENGLAND, 37 

Liverpool (Hotels: Adelphl; Northwestern Hail- 
way ; Grand ; Lancashire and Yorkshire; Shaftes- 
bury Temperance; Imperial; Angel. Restaurants: 
Sainshury's Luncheon Rooms; Bear's Paw; also at 
the ry. stations and hotels) is the port at which most 
tourists from the United States first land. It is a 
city of over 650,000 inhab., the second seaport in the 
United Kingdom, and possesses the finest docks in 
the world. See the " Chapter for Travellers " for in- 
structions as to Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool i» 
essentially a modern town. In 1561 it w^as a hamlet ; 
in 1644 Prince Rupert called it " a crow's nest " ; but 
in 1871 it numbered half a million. Liverpool's im- 
portance dates from the upspringing of the cotton 
manufacture in England. There have been years in 
which the value of its exports has been twice as great 
as that of the exports from London ; 30,000 seamen 
constantly throng its quays. Its public buildings are 
as new as those of American cities. Tliere is scarcely 
one older than the present century.^ 



^ " Liverpool is not even mentioned in the list of toAvns in 
tlie Doomsday Book of the Norman invaders. It is spokea 
of for the first time in 1172, when Henry II. made the eon- 
quest of Ireland, and embarked his ships in the Mersey, 
Towards 1700 its population was hardly 5,000. The block- 
up of the Dee at Chester profited Liverpool ; and its mer- 
chants began to ;;;et rich, above all in the slave trade. As 
the painter Fuseli said, when he was asked to admire the 
great streets, 'the blood of the negroes seems to have fil- 
tered through these carven stones.' The city occujnes the 
geographical centre between Great Britain and Ireland. It 
is the only point of convergence for domestic exchange be- 
tween the British Islands. This central position is also aa 



38 LIVERPOOL. 

The Docks, some parts of which may be seen 
from the steamers ascending the Mersey, deserve a 
careful visit. Liverpool lies on the r, bank of the 
river Mersey; opposite it is the important town of 
Birkenhead ; and the ' ' silent highway ' ' between is 
thronged with ships from every part of the globe. 
The dock system extends from the Herculaneiim 
Graving Dock to the N. part of the Hornby Dock, a 
distance of 6 M. An electric elevated road, running 
from Seaforth Sands to Dingle, passes by the whole 
line of docks (3d., 3d.). All intervening space is filled 
with docks and quays, two and sometimes three deep. 
The Canning, Salthouse, George's, King's, Queen's, and 
Brunswick Docks, and tlie Queen's and Prince's Hall'- 
Tide Basins, were constructed between 1717 and 1816. 
In the King's Dock and wareliouses are stored and 
bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco ar.d cigars. 
Bail ways communicate by tunnels directly with llie 
dock system. The total quay space of the Liverpool 
docks a year or two ago vv^as 26 M.; of the basins, 8 M.; 
and the total water area of the docks, 389 acres. The 
Fririces Landinc) Stage, at which passengers from and 
to America disembark and depart, is a noble work. It 
is said that nearly \ of the trade of the port is with the 
United Slates. Tlie town possesses -^ of the shipping 
of Great Britain, \ of the foreign trade, \ of tlie gen- 
eral commerce, and more than \ as nmch trade as the 
port of London. In 1867 the customs dues amounted 

advantage for foreign commerce, which has chosen Liverpool 
for its dG])ot. Farther than Bristol from the high sea, which 
is the road to America, Africa, and the Lidics, Liverpool 
overcomes this inferiority by the advantage which she has in 
being close to the border of a coal basin, which has become 
the ])rincipal seat of all the manufactm-es of the entire 
world." {Elisee Redus^ . 



ENGLAND, 39 

to £3/)20,409, and the cotton imported to 2,250,500 
bales. 

St. George's Hall is one of the most conspicuous 
objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and imposing struc- 
ture, completed in 1851, and coutains the Assize 
Courts, an immense haU for public meetings, and a 
concert room. The portico on the S. is very hue. It 
surmouuts a pedestal of noble steps, 150 ft. wide, ter- 
minating in a pediment, the tympauuin of which is 
enriched b}'- sculptures representing Britannia oiFering 
the olive branch, with the lion at her side and the 
Mersey flowing at her feet. Mercui-y is represented 
as leading to her from the other side Asia, Europe, 
Africa, and America. In the great liall is one of the 
largest organs in the world, with 108 stops and 8,000 
pipes. See the bronze doors which lead to the Crown 
Court. In front of St. George's Hall are statues of 
the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. Four stone 
lions guard the principal entrance to the area 
between the hall and Lime-St. Not far away is the 
Ale^^'ttndra Theatre. The Wellimjion. Monument, cast 
from cannon taken at Waterloo, is also near St. George's 
Hall. A little to the N. is Browns Free Pittjlir Lifjrari/ 
and Museum , built at the expense of the late Sir AVilliam 
Brown. Near by is the Walker Art Gallery. 

The Munieipul Offiees, in Dale-St. ; the Town Hall ; 
the Exchange, which covers two acres, in the conuuer- 
cial quarter, are handsome edifices. Ou the Exchange 
Flags, where the merchants meet, stands a bronze 
statue of Nelson, by Westmacott. *S'/. John's Market, 
a vast structure, is on Great Charlotte-St. The Cus- 
tom House and Post-Office, at the junction of Strand-St. 
and Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for the 
storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors' Home, 
close bv. 



40 LIVERPOOL. 

Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The 

Botanic Gardens, in Edge Lane. The Corn Exchangty 
oil Brmiswick-St. St. Nicholas' Ch., the only real an- 
tiquity in Liverpool. The original chapel was built in 
the time of William the Conqueror. In old times a 
statue of St. Nicholas, patron of mariners, stood in tlie 
yard. The ch. was restored in 1774. The tower facing 
the S. side was erected as one of a series of " signal 
steeples." ■ Frince's and Stanley Parks ; from the latter 
a good view of the sea and the Cumbeiiaud hills. St. 
James s Cemetery, formerly a stone quarry, and filled 
for its present purpose at an expense of ^20,000. 
The Mausoleum of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park, 
purcliased at a cost of £450,000 from the Earl of Sef- 
ton. Liverpool has expended vast sums the past feW 
years on street improvements; but the poor quarter is 
still hoi-ribly unhealthy. A walk through it should be 
undertaken only in the da^dight hours. Estates and 
Residences of Noblemen near Liverpool : Ivnowsley 
Hall, owned by the Earl of Derby (see the Stanley 
portraits tlierej ; Croxteth Hal!, the Earl of Scftcu's 
seat ; Childwall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of 
Salisbury. Excursions may be made from Liverpool 
to New Brighton, down the river by ferry-boat from 
the George's Landing stage; and to Eastham, a pretty 
pleasure-resort.^ 

1 " The cities croAvdecl together in the ncighboiliood of 
Liverpool and Birkenhead are very numerous. Li an angle 
ef Cheshire is Neio Brighton, a water-side pleasure-resort. 
Toxteth Park is a suburb situated near the Mersey. On the 
N. and the E. are Bootle, Linacre, Walton-on-the-Hill, 
West Derby, AVidnes, Wavei'tree, Prescot, St. Plelens, luce, 
and Ne\vton-in-Makerfield. St. Helens has very important 
glass manufactories. The basiu of the Kibble contains a 
very considei'able population. Round the mouths of the mines 



ENGLAND. 41- 

Birkenhead {Queen's Hotel ; W(9(?f7s^(Ze), an essen- 
tially oiodern town of about 115,000 inhab., is near 
the mouth of the Mersey, on the S. shore facing 
Liverpool. Constant communication by steam-ferries 
and the new tunnel under the Mersey. Ship-building 
is the main industry. The docks cover 500 acres. 
Here are the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the- 
Alabama was built. The Gh., which overlooks th^-^ 
river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, founded 
in Henry II. 's reign. 

rise groups of factories. The central city of the basin, Black- 
burn, is one of those towns black with smoke, where steam- 
engines are incessantly roaring. Clitheroe-on-the-Ribble is- 
in the midst of a charming country. Between Blackburn and- 
Liverpool the manufacturing towns are close together. Over- 
Darwen, Chorley, Wigan, Hindley, are but a stone's throw- 
from each other. Not far from Wigan is the deepest coah 
mine in Great Britain. On the W. of Wigan is the grea' 
market town of Onneskirk. Preston, ' proud Preston, 
majestically situated where the Ribble begins to broaden, ir 
the most populous city of the whole basin. It is at the sam( 
time a manufacturing place of the first order, especially foi 
cottons. Lancaster is to the N., distant from the centre 
of population. It is no longer a capital except in name,, 
although it still keeps certain prerogatives as a ducal city. 
Built on the site of a Roman military station, it is overlooked- 
by a castle where there were many importaut ruins. Lan- 
caster, prominent in so many events in the civil wars, is novr 
a peaceful commercial town, with numerous cotton factories.. 
The Fleetwood Railway unites it with Foidton, on Morecambe- 
Bay, a maritime suramer-resort. The town which attracts* 
most visitors is Blackpool, situated N. of the Ribble estuary^ 
on a hill from whence the waters of the Irish Sea can b^ 



^42 GRANGE. — FURNESS ABBEY. 



The English Lake District. 

Those persons wlio desire to visit tlie English Lakes 
and to proceed thence to Scotland, before going, as the 
Englishsay, " up to London," will find Liverpool their 
best point of departure. Erom Liverpool to Winder, 
mere the distance is 87|- M. ; and the fares, 25s. 6d., 
18s. 3d., lis. Gd. This route is through Wigan, Pres- 
ton, and Lancaster to Oxenholme Junction., where 2* 
-good view of Kendal, the largest town in Westmore- 
land, is obtained, and from Oxenhplme by branch rail- 
Avay to Windermere, v/hence excursions can be made 
in all directions. But we think the American tourist 
would find it interesting to enter this beautiful re- 
gion by another route, as follows : Take ticket from 
Liverpool to Grange (fares, 21s. Gd., 15s. 6d., 10s.). 
You pass through Wigan, Pres-ton, and Lancaster, and 
a little beyond this last place change at Carnfortk 
. Junction. The railway thence to Grange carries you 
.^across arms of Morecambe Bay, and beside M'ild 
stretches of quicksand, wdiere hundreds of lives have 
been lost. Grange {^Grange Hotel, a charming house 
on the slope of a wooded hill) is called the "Torquay 
of the North." Its climate is mild, even in wintei- ; and 
it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, once a 
Roman station, is near by. From Grange an excursion 
■should be made to Furness Abbey, by the railway 
passing through Ulverston, Lindal, Dalton, and other 
points in the rich Eurness mining district, and termi- 
nating at the important town of Barrow. (Returns 
ticket, 1st class, Grange to Eurness Abbey, 5s.) Tour- 
ists will be well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex- 
cursion may be made in an afternoon by those who have 
Jleft Liverpool for Grange in the morning. " The Royal 



ET!^GLAND. 45 

Al)bey of St. Mary of FurDess" was founded in 
1127, in Henry I.'s reign, by Stephen, his successor 
on the throne of England. The monks of the 
Cistercian order grew rapidly rich and powerful. 
The abbots of Furness were lords in Parliament, 
and had their little army. The ruin is now^ the 
property of the Duke of Devonshire. Admission 
to the grounds, winch are close to the stat., free, 
Tlic ro"otifjss cli., the lavishly decorated chapter- 
house, the scriptorium, and the refectory contain 
man}^ interesting memorials. The E. v^indow is 
preserved in the sanctuary at Bovvucs's ; it is a superb 
specimen of media;val glass-painting. Furnoss Ablx y 
Hole] is near the ruins." Along the rly. lie l)eds of liem- 
atite iron ore. from wiiicli about 000,000 tons are ar:nu- 
a ■I}" taken. Prom Ulverston {San. ; Coiuify Hotel), 
the capital of Furness. a branch line leads %o Lake 
Side, on Windermere Jjake. One can also go dii-ectly 
from Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to tlie hond 
of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of Northweslern 
and Midland Railways, and local guide-books, for a 
host of details concerning round trips, circular livtlscls, 
etc. Holker Hall, a residence of the- Duke of Dcv- 
onsliire, may be visited on tlie way back from Fur- 
ness Abbey to Grange. Stop at Cark, and wa>k to: 
the Hall, 1 M. The Hall and park are on tlie L'^ven, 
liowing out of Lake Windermere. Many clianning: 
walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven Sands u.p 
to and through sweet and romantic Holker Village, with 
its cottages nestling among rose-trees and fuchsias, and 
on to Garlmel and its ancient Priory. Holker Hall 
contains a fine collection of paintings, and the yrark is 
well stocked with deer. Levens Hall may be visited 
from Gran<?e \t is on the E. side of the river Kent. 



44 WINDERMERE. 

"*riie gardens on tlie estate were laid out by Beaumont, 
J"ames II.'s famous gardener. Returning to Grange, 
sleep there, and take the coach next morning for Newby 
Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Windermere) at 
:-about 10 o'clock. This 8 M. drive is deliglitful. At 
Newb}^ Bridge the time-honored and picturesque Swan 
Inn should be noticed. At Lake Side, where the train 
-from Ulverston comes in {Lake Side Hotel, very good), 
•one may take the steam-yacht which plies regularly on 
the waters of Windermere, stopping at the Ferry 
(5 M.), Bowness (G M.), or Waterhead (11 M.). This 
last is the stat. for Ambleside, f M. from the lake; and 
at Ambleside one is in the very heart of the Lake region. 
i(rare from Grange to Ambleside by this route, about 5s.) 
A party of four persons would find it worth their while 
to hire a carriage at Grange, and drive first to Newby 
Bridge ; thence to Lake Side ; then across from Winder- 
mere Lake, past Esthwaite Water (around which Words- 
worth used to walk when he was attending school near 
by), through the old town of LLawkshead, down to the 
l^ateriiead Quay on Coniston Lake \ and from that point 
over the Oxenfe'll, past Skelwith Bridge and Elter Water, 
and Brathay, into Ambleside. This can be done easily! 
in 5-6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a; 
bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston and the 
approach to Ambleside afford two of the loveliest 
views in England. Make special bargain for carriage; 
-driver receives fee of 2s. — 3s. 6d. We advise tourists 
to hasten to Ambleside, and make their excursions from 
there. Tlie Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Troutbeck, and 
Husland Vales may be best visited from Windermere 
Village or Bowness ; but everything else of importance 
as most accessible from Ambleside. ^ 

* The traveller will find pocket editions of "Wordswortla 
sand Southey excellent companions ; also. Prof. Wm. Knight'* 



ENGLAND. 45 

Windermere Lake is 10^ M. long and 1 M. broad 
ift its widest part. It is 134 ft. above the sea-level, 
and varies in depth from 90 to 240 ft. Opposite Bow- 
ness there is a group of about a dozen small islands. 
The surrounding hills rarely rise above 1,000 ft. At 
a few yards from the head of the lake, the rivers 
Brathay and Rothay unite their waters. There are no 
such rich effects of color, no such bold and magnifi- 
cent mountain masses, as on the shores of the Swiss 
lakes ; but there is a bewildering richness of Northern 
vegetation, and a constant succession of beautiful land- 
scapes such as few other countries can boast. (Boat, 
to row yourself. Is. an hr. ; with boatman. Is. Gd. per 
hr. ; for the day, with boatman, 10s.) 

Bownsss {Crown Hotel; Roijal ; Old England) is on 
a pleasant bay, and commaiiis good views of the upper 
reaches of the lake. Ancient parish ch. liere. Coaches 
every moniing in summer for Coniston; and for Patter- 
dale' by the Trout beck Va'j and Kii-kstone Pass. 

Windermere {Rlggss Hotel, P/indermere) is U 
miles from the lake by road, h M. by footpath, and 
5 M. from Ambleside. "^ Coach each morning in summer 
to Patterdale. A short distance from the stat, formerly 
stood Elleray, the residence of Prof. Wilson (Christo- 
pher North) ; it has been replaced by a new house. Fine 
view from Orrest Head, 783 ft. high {^ hr.'s walk). 

Ambleside {Salutation Hotel; Queens; White Lion, 
Waterhead, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from the 
iiead of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situation at the 
foot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses often to Grasmere 
and to head of lake; and coaches for Keswick, and 

" The English Lake District, as interpreted in the Poems of 
Wordsworth," price 5s. Baddeley's Guide is eapital. Jenkin- 
son's " Practical Guide," price 7s., is a good book. There ars 
also a dozen small pamphlet guides for 6d, or Is. each. 



46 AMBLESIDE. — CONISTON LAKE. 

thrice daily for Windermere. Fare from Liverpool to 
Ambleside, 2Ss. 6d,, 20s. 6d., 13s. 6d.; from London 
to Ambleside, in 7 lirs., 76s. 4d., 58s. lOd., 39s. 6d. 

At Ambleside you are on classic ground. Mr. Tay- 
lor, landloi-d at the Salutation Inn (which venerable 
hostelry is now in its twentieth decade, although the 
building is new), says that Americans always ask him 
how far it is to Wordsworth's grave, where Harriet 
Martineau 'lived, etc., but that Englisli tourists never 
do. Ambleside is picturesque, although the inhabitants 
build ugly residences out of the slate which abounds in 
the neighborhood. The park -like vale of Rothay, with 
its rich v/oods and pretty vistas of green fields, seems 
made for the home of contemplation. The new Ch. of 
St. Mary designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a charm- 
ing location. We give a number of short excursions 
within walking distance, out of which the tourist must 
choose those which strike his fancy. To the Stock 
Ghyll Force (waterfall, 70 ft. high), within the Salutation 
Hotel grounds. The distances mentioned below are 
computed from the " Salutation." To Bydal Mount, 
Ch., and Falls, 2 M. ; to Skelgill and Wansfell Pike, 
3 M.; to the top of Kirkstone Pass, 4 M.; to GrasmerCy 
under Loughrigg Fell, and back by Nab Scar, 9 M.; to 
Clappersgate, IM.; Brathay Ch., 2 M.; Low Wood 
Hotel, 2 M.; Troutbeck Ch., 4 M.; Langdale Ch., 5 M. 
Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, Furness Abbey, 
and Windermere Lake (fares, 8s. 9d., 6s. 6d.), and for 
the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or at 
Bowness. They are available for 7 days. 

Coniston Lake, 5^ M. long and" f M. broad, is 
164 ft. deep in some places. Its surroundings are 
fine, and the view down upon it from some neighboring 
nit. is charming. A steam yacht plies up and down 
the lake 3 times daily (fares, Is. 6d, and Is.) . Excur- 



ENGLAND. 47 

sicns up Couiston Old Man (2577 ft.), Wetlierlam, and 
Black Combe Mts. are for the leisurely tourist. 

Coach Services from Amhlesids : For the Langdale 
Drive, 6s. ; to Keswick, several times daily, 8s. 6d. 
single, and 9s. 6d. return tickets. The Langdale Drive 
is from Ambleside to Rothay Bridge, |M.; Skelwitli 
Bridge, 3 ; Colwith Eorce, 4| ; Smithy Houses, 5^ ; 
Dungeon Gill, 9^ ; Chapel Stile, 13^ ; High Close, 14 ; 
Grasmere Ch., 15| ; Ambleside, 19^. Much of the 
scenery visited on"" tliis drive is described in Words- 
worth's " Excursion." ^ 

1 Private Carriage Excursions from Ambleside, recom- 
mended to tourists who have time at their disposition. — To 
Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, Brothers' Water, and back 
(an exceedingly interesting drive, abounding in wild and 
romantic scenery), 24 M.; or back by Troutbeck, 35 M. 
To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere, Dunmail Raise, 
Thirlmei-e, Castlerigg, and back, 34 M.; or back by St, 
John's Vale, 37 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by 
Ilawkshead, Blelham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M. 
To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawkshead, Esthwaite- 
Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle to Ambleside, 23 M.; or 
across the Ferry and back to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M. 
Around Windermere Lake by Brathay, Wray Castle, the 
Ferry, Graythwaite, to Newby Bridge, and back by the E. 
side of Windermere, Bowness to Ambleside, 30 M. Around 
Langdale by Clappersgate, Brathay, Skelwith, Blea Tarn, 
Little Langdale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red 
Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M.; or direct by 
Eiterwater, 18 M. By Clappersgate to Skelwith, Lough- 
rigg Tarn, High Close, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Am- 
bleside, 12 M. To the top of Kirkstone, back by vale of 
Troutbeck and Low Wood, 11 M.; or back by Cook's House, 
15 M. To Bowness, back by Windermere, Cook's House, 
Vale of Troutbeck, and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawkshead^ 
back by Wray Castle, Blelham Taini, 12 M. 



48 ULLSWATER LAKE. 



From Ambleside to UUswater Lake 

UUswater Lake is usually visited either from Amble 
side or from Keswick. During the tourist season a 
coach leaves Ambleside for Patterdale at 10 a.m. daih". 
The route through Ambleside to the Kirkstoue Pyss 
passes in front of the Salutation Hotel, and branches 
to the r,, passing tlie old ch. Here and there it is 
very steep, winding along the side of the Fell. Below, 
on the r., is the Stock Ghyll, on the opposite side of 
which is Wansfell Pike. The inn at the top of the Pass, 
called the Travellers' Rest, is said to be the highest in- 
habited house in England. It stands 1,475 ft. above 
the sea-level. Travellers, independent of the coach, 
would better drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and uj) 
the bold hills, commanding a view of the Fall of Trout- 
beck, to the top of the Pass. Descending from the 
Travellers' Ilest, you pass on the 1. the Kirk Stone, 
which looks, perhaps, a trifle like a ch. from a point 
half-way down the mt., towards Brothers' Water, a 
little lake, named from the drowning of two brothers in 
its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you can see 
the flames from the blast furnaces in the Barrow dis- 
trict, and catch a glimpse of the Irish Sea. The Dove 
Crags, beyond the Brothers'' Water Hotel, are extremely 
picturesque. 

Patterdale {Patterdale Hotel; White Lmi) stands 
in a pretty valley, a few hundred yards from the head 
of the lake. 1 M. farther on is "^the Ullsioater^ Hotel, 
first-class. The scenery all about this point is rich and 
varied. The view from the windows of the UUswater 
Hotel over the lake, with its woody shores and its 
islands, is very beautiful. (Fares for tour on UUswater 
Lake, by steam yacht, 3s. aiid 2s.) The boats call at 



ENGLAND. 49 

Howtown, and next land passengers close to Pooley 
Bridge, whence coaches run to meet the trains at Pen- 
rith. Prom Penrith, rail to Keswick. 

TJllswater Lake is '9 M. long, f M. broad, and 
1^10 ft. deep. The upper reach of tlie lake is the most 
beautiful. Many people prefer this to Lake Derwent- 
water. See LijulpJis Toiver and Irci Force, a waterfall 
80 ft. high. This cascade is the scene of the incident 
on which Wordsworth's poem of the Sonmambulld is 
founded. The journey from Ambleside to Ullsv/ater 
usually takes 2| hrs. Wordsworth intended to make 
his home at a cottage under Place Fell, near Patter- 
dale ; but the owner asked more than the prudent man 
thought it was worth, and he remained at Grasmere. 
The places in the UUswater district associated with the 
poet are best approached by the road from Grasmere 
to Helvellyn, leading past Girsdale Tarn. 

From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal 
Mount and Grasmere. 

Those persons who have not taken the Langdale 
Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere from Amble- 
side, may visit the old homes and the grave of Words- 
worth on their way to Keswick. The coaches stop at 
the places of interest. The road out of Ambleside leads 
past the Knoll, and the ivy-covered residence in which 
Harriet Martineau lived for a long time. This house 
is on the 1. Thence the route lies up the Rothay valley 
to Rydal. Note Fox How, Dr. Arnold's old residence 
to the 1., beyond the Pothay. A steep road on the r. 
leads out of Rydal to Rijdal Mount, where Wordsworth 
spent 37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850. 
As many of the memorials of the poet in his home 
as possible have been preserved unaltered ; but tha 
4 



50 GRASMERE. 

eld picturesque frontage with its 13 wiudowSv aud 
the ash-tree, near which hung the "osier cage" of the 
doves, are gone. The present owner of the house- 
dechnes to show it. The location is extremely beauti- 
ful. Rydal Falls are at the back of Rijdal HalL 
Guide at cottage below the ch. E-eturuing to the 
main road, the traveller passes through the gorge 
betvreen Nab Scar on the r. and Loughrigg Fell on 
the 1. ; sees on the r. Nab Cottage, in which Haj'tley 
Coleridge lived for a long time, and Avhere he died;, 
and reaches Rydal Water, one of the most diminutive 
of the lakes. From this point it is but a short distance 
to the delightfully situated Grasmere Lake. It is 1 M. 
long and \ M. broad. An island of '4 acres' area lies m. 
its centre. On the border of this lake is the Prince of 
Wales Hotel, a good house. Grasmere {Rothay Hotel; 
Swa?i; Red Lion) lies mainly at the N. end of the lake, 
although many of the nev.'er residences border on the 
highway. Knight says: "The cottage at the town end 
of Grasmere, to which Wordsworth came with his 
sister in tlie last days of the last century, is, even more 
than Rydal Mount, identified with his poetic prime. 
It had once been a public house, beariug the sign of 
the Dove and Olive Bough, from which circumstance 
it was for a long time, and is still, occasionally named 
'Dove Cotlage.' It is a small, two-storied house." 
(See De Quincey's description, in "Recollections of the 
Lakes/' pp. 131, 137.)^ Grasmere Ch. is the one 

^ The localities most deeply identified with W^irdsworth 
are: Grasmere, where he lived so long, and u\ buried; 
Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days Avitl? his .sister, 
by the side of the hrook, and on the terraces at Liwcrigg, 
•where The Frelude was written; Rydal Mount, Nhcn^ he 
lived the latter half of his life, and found one d '^e most 



ENGLAND. 51 

wliicli Wordsworth drew in ''The Excursion," and 
in its cemetery lie lies buried. The interior is as the 
poet described it : there are the " naked rafters in- 
tricately crossed," the oaken benches, the "heraldic 
shield " in the " altar window," etc. After a visit to 
the ch. you can find some very lovely rambles in the 
vicinity. The road to Keswick chmbs Dunmail Raise 
Pass, with Steel Fell on the 1. and Seat Sandal on the 
r., and crosses the boundary between Cumberland and 
Westmoreland. Descending on the other side, Thirl- 
niere Lake appears, with Mt. Helvellyn on the r. and 
part of Skiddaw in the distance. The coach stops 
at the inn at Wythburu. The ch. at Wytliburn is 
Dne of th^ smallest in England." From hence the 
ascent of Mt. Helvellyn is easiest. Height, 3118 
ft. ; distance to top from Wythburn, 2 1-2 M. ; time 
rsquired, 1 1-2 lirs. Thirimere Lake, which sup- 
plies Manchester v.ith water, is 2 1-2 M. long, and 
very narrows From the W. shoi-e many lovely 
views may be obtained. From an elevation iii 
the road just beyond this point, Blencathara may be 
•seen. The rich Vale of St. John also opens its charm- 
ing vistas on the r.; and not far from the King's Head 
Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Rock, the fairy 
castle of Sir Walter Scott's " Bridal of Triermain," ip 

perfect retreats in England; and the old (upper) path be- 
tween Rydal and Grasmere, under Nab Scar, his favorite 
walk during his later years, where he composed hundreds of 
verses. There is scarcely a rock or mountain-summit, a 
stream or tarn, or even a well, a grove, or a forest-side, in 
all that neighborhood, which is not imperishably associated 
with that poet, who at once interpreted them as they had 
never been interpreted before, and added 

" The gleam, 
The light that never was on sea or land, 
The consecration, and the poet's dream." 



52 KESWICK.-DERWENTWATER LAKE. 

obtained. An uninteresting stretch of country comes 
next ; after which the traveller is gratified with one of 
the most exquisite panoramas in the Lake Region, the 
Derwent Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions 
of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes. 

Keswick (Hotels : Keswich, at the rly. stat. ; Royal 
Oah; Queens; Q-eorge; Lake) is surrounded by a noble 
company of mts., with Skiddaw, the chief, 3058 ft., 
towering above them. It is a handsome little town, 
and one or two days may be spent in the neighbor- 
hood. 1 M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake 
Derwentwater, in Portinscale, is the Deriventwater 
Motel (good). 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore 
Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which Southey 
celebrated in verse. The Barrow and Lodore Water- 
falls, the Bowder Stone, Corrowdale Valley, Honister 
Pass, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, Scale Force, 
and the Newlands Valley may be seen on the excursion 
called the Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con- 
veyed in open wagonettes (fares 5s., and Is. for driver) 
through this pleasant series of sylvan and lake scenery. 
JBorrotvdale is considered one of the finest valleys in 
Great Britain. The Wastwater Excursion from Kes- 
wick is interesting, but fatiguing. 

Derwentwater Lake lies 238 ft. above the sea- 
level ; is 80 ft. deep in the centre, 3 M. long and 1^ M. 
wide. From the Friar's Crag, on this Lake, there is a 
inagnificent outlook. There are several islands, one of 
"which, St. Hei^hert, was occupied by a hermit monk in 
the 7th century. On Bampshohne Island, the Earls of 
Derwentwater once had a mansion; and from it Lady 
Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the family 
jewels, to procure the release of the Earl, who was 
imprisoned in the Tower of London for taking part 
in the rebellion of 1715. (Charge for boat with boat- 



ENGLAND. 63 

man on the lake, 2s. for the first hour, Is. 6d. for every 
succeeding hour.) Por those pressed for time, a drive 
round Derwentwater Lake vi^ill give a view of the prin- 
I'ipai points of scenery. Baasenthtoaite Lake begins 
■ibout 8 M. jM. of the foot of Derwentwater. It is \ 
iVI. long and about f M. wide. Tlie river Derwent^ 
Avhich carries the waters from the Derwent and Kes- 
wick Lakes, enters it at its liead, and leaves it at its^ 
foot, llowing past Cockermouth and into the sea. 
Bassonthwaite has three promontories on its E. side,, 
which is overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often 
visited by tourists, because it lies on the N. outskirt of 
the Lake District;- but it is well worth seeing. 

Greta Hall, where the poet Southey spent th& 
best part of his life, is a short distance from Kes- 
wick. Walk down the main street to tlie bridge 
crossing the river Greta, whence a good view may be 
liad of the Hall. It stands on the r., surrounded by 
trees. Erom this point to Crosthwaite Ch. is a pleasant 
walk, and in the ch.-yard is Southey's grave. The 
edifice contains a monument to the laureate, consisting 
of a full-length figure. The poetical inscription was 
written by Wordsworth. In the chancel is a monu- 
ment to Sir John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of tlie 
Earls of Derwentwater. Erom the tower, good view, 
A footpath through the meadovi^ called Hon ray was 
one of Southey's favorite walks. Erom this point fine 
view of the magnificent group of mts. ; on the N., tlie 
huge mass of Skiddaw; on the E., Wallow Crag; and 
to the S., the Borrowdale mts. The lead-pencil manu- 
factories near Keswick merit a visit ; so does an in. 
genious model of the Lake District in a museum in the 
town. Erom Castle Head, \ M. outside Keswick, most 
of Bassenthwaite Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, the 
whole of the intervening valley, and Mt. Skiddaw may be 



54 KESWICK. — PENRITH. 

"Seen. St. John and Crostliwaite Chs. may also be seen 
ifrom this point. Unless the weather is fine, it is nse- 
iess to hope for any satisfactory view of the mts. Even 
in midsummer the front of Skiddaw is overhung will: 
mists for a large part of the time. About I5 M. from 
Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, are 
the Druids' Stones, formed of 88 stones, the largest of 
which is upwards of 7 ft. liigh. Near by are the tov/- 
cring heights of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw, 
and, in the distance, to the W., an impressive range. 

Ascent of Skiddaio from Keswick. — The distance 
to the top is about 5| M.; time, there and back, 4-6 
hrs. ; charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. - A guide is usually 
necessary from Skiddaw to tlie summit of Blencathara; 
distance, about 6 M. ; ground in places very wet. 

The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which course 
we recommend), via Penrith and Carlisle ; or can r^,< 
turn to Liverpool (fares from Keswick, o9s. 2d., 2/s. 
3d., 18s.), and thence go to London by the North 

Western PJy., arriving at Euston stat. (fares, by all the 
hues, 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 9d.; distance, 201f M.); the 
Midland, arriving at St. Pancras ; the Great Northern, 
arriving- at King's Cross ; or the Great Western, arriv- 
ing at Faddington stat. Free parlor cars are run ou 
express trains, both on the L. & N. W. Ry. and the 
Midland Ry. 

From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland, 

Prom Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. (fares, 4s. 4d., 
Is. lOd.). Penrith {Crown Hotel; Georr/e') is charm- 
ingly situated. Excursions may be made to Brougham 
Castle and Hall, Arthur's Round Table, Low I her Castle 
and the famous Eden Hall, which contains the curious 



ENGLAND. 55 

©Id drinklug-glass called the ''Luck of Edeii Hall.*' 
See ruins of Penriih Castle, a favorite residence of 
Hicliard III. In the cemetery of the parish ch. is tha 
Giant's Graoe, an ancient mysterious mound. 

Carlisle {County Station Hotel ; Central; Crown 
and Mitre), 18 M. from Penrith and 8 M. from the 
' Scottish border, is the capital of Cumberland. It dates 
back to the Koman days, and was close to Hadrian's 
wall. In the early wars between England and Scotland 
it was of great importance. The Castle was built by 
William Rufus. Within it Mary Queen of Scots was 
imprisoned in 1568. The Cathedral does not stand iu 
the front rank ; but its E. window is commonly said to 
be the largest and finest in the Kingdom. The ch. was 
originally part of a Norman priory, bvdlt of red free- 
stone. It contains a monument to Dr. Paley, Arch- 
deacon of Carlisle. Note the old glass of the time of 
Richard II., in the E. window, and the exquisite details 
of the flamboyant Gothic work. The walls and windows 
of the choir are Norman ; the upper part of the 
choir, with tlie E. end and the roof. Late Decorated. 
See the old abbey gate-house ; and the refectory, now 
used as the chapter- house ; also quaint houses in tlie 
market-phice ; and the Moot Hall. 

Beyond Carlisle the rly. enters the Bebatable Gronjid, 
where for centuries the borderers waged war on each 
other. A little farther on is Ecclefechan (Scotland),, 
where Thomas Carlyle was born and is buried. Th& 
riy. crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale : — 

" March, march, Eskdale and Liddesdale, 
All the blue bonnets are over the border-'* 



56 THE LAND OF BURNS. 



SCOTLAND. 

SHORTLY after crossing the Sark River, wliich i> iixo 
boundary between England and Scotland, the route 
passes Gretna Junction, near which is Gretna Green, 
jormerly the resort of ninaway couples anxious to be 
raarried"^. These marriages, rendered possible by the dif- 
ference between the English and Scotch law, were first 
celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist named Paisley. 
In 1856 they were suppressed by act of Parliament. 
Annan Junction was the scene of the spirited escape 
of King Edward Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of 
Archibald Douglass. It was the birthplace of Edward 
Irving, in 1793. 

The Land of Burns 

can be visited from Glasgow ; but it will be more satis- 
factory to go from Carlisle to Dumfries, pass the night, 
and then pYoceed to Ayr. The excursion may be made 
in a day. 

Dumfries {Station: Quee7isherrj/; IH^ig's Anns) is 
32| M. IVoiu Carlisle (lares, 5s. 6d., 4s. Id., 2s. 9d.). 
Here Burns lived for several years, and here he died, 
at the house now known as Bunis's. He also lived for 
18 mouths alter he became an exciseman, at the foot 
of Bank-Sr. His Mausoleum is in St. Michael's Ch.- 
yard ; in the vault beneath, lie Burns and his wife 
and son. The Oreyfriars Cli. deserves a visit. 
Most readers of Scott will remember the story of Grey- 
friars Monaster}^ and of "Kirkpatrick's bloody work." 
Dumfries is the capital of Nithsdale, and its people call 
it ' ' The Queen of the South. " From a border hamlet 



SCOTLAND. Sr 

n>f the 8th century, with a rrauciscan convent and a; 
castle, it has grown into a prosperous port and factory^ 
town. Excursions from Dumfries : — To Linolu- 
den Abbey, 1^ M., beautiful ruins of a 12th-century 
Benedictine nunnery, and a favorite resort of Burns.. 
Amid this sylvan beauty he composed his " Vision, 
of Libertie." — To New or Sweetheart Abbey, a 
lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. The Lady Devorgilla, 
Avho built the abbey (for Cistercians), in 1284, em- 
balmed the heart (whence the name) of her husband, 
John Balliol, and had it built in over the high altar, 
Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the monastery for 
Franciscan friars, before whose altar Kobert the Bruce; 
slew the Red Comyn ; and the old bridge across the: 
Nith.— To Terregl'es (3 M.) and Irongray (5 M.), in 
•whose ch.-yard is a handsome monument erected by 
Scott to the memory of Helen Walker ( Jeannie Deans). 
Irongray is the scene of "The Recreations of a Country 
Parson," — To Ellisland farm, where Burns wrote 
" Tarn O'Shanter" and the beautiful ode " To Mary 
in Heaven." 13 M. from Dumfries is the extraordin- 
ary architectural pile of *Drumlanrig Castle, built 
by William, first Duke of Queensberry, who w^asted 
princely sums on it. Ibrthoncald Castle is a, massive 
ruin, 4 M. from Dumfries. Caerlaverook Castle (9 
M.) is a grand old fortress on the Sol way Frith, de- 
scribed in " Guy Mannering." Lochmaben, Uuthwell,. 
and venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennan Abbey" 
and St. Mary's Isle) may also be visited. Tourists- 
who wish to view the extreme S, coast of Scotland 
should go to Stranraer from Dumfries (69 Al.) ; and 
from Stranraer by rail to Ayr and Glasgo-^-. Tliose who> 
would make only a short stop at Dumfries should buy- 
a ticket from Carlisle to Mauchline (81^ M. ; fareS;.^ 
13s. 8d., 10* 3d., 6s. 9id.) At Mauchline [Loudoun^ 



58 AYR. - ALLOWAY. 

Arms Hotel) everything speaks of Burns; his farm of 
Mossgiel is 1^ M. IST. ; there he was married to Jean 
Armour; there his plough turne'd up tlie mouse's nest. 
In Mauchiine is *'Poosie Nansie's" cottage, cele- 
brated for the meeting of the " Jolly Beggars." If you 
have time, walk through woods and fields from Mauch- 
iine to Montgomerie. There stands the pretty man- 
sion where once "Highland Mary" lived as an humble 
dairymaid. From Mauchiine a branch line, 11 M. 
long', leads to Ayr {Station; King's Arms; Ddlblair), 
to which many pilgrims go to pay homage to Burns. 
It is on the sea-coast, at the mouth of the river Ayr. 
Seethe "Twa Brigs" of Bnras's poem. The AuJd 
Brig (now only a footpath) dates from the reign of 
Alexander III.', in the loth century; the new bridge, 
from 1877. A Gothic tower, 133 ft. high, containing 
a, statue of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in 
which the hero is said to have been confined. Crom- 
well built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a few frag- 
ments remain. Take a carriage to Burns's Cottage, 
the Monument, and Alloway Kirk(l|hrs. ; fare, about 
4s. for a party). Walk down through the long and 
exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In this rude 
home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 1759. One room 
has been transformed into a kind of museum, and 
there some of the poet's original IVISS. may be seen. 
Kot far beyond is Alloway Kirk,roofless and desolate. 
The walls are in a fair state of preservation, and the 
bell remains; but the woodwork has been all used 
up for memorials. New Alloway Ch. is on the other 
side of the road. There is little to see in the "auld 
haunted kirk," so go on to the bridge over the "Bonny 
Doon," built since Burns's time; up stream you will 
see the " Auld Brig" immortalized in "Tam o' Shan- 
ler." An excursion along the Beautiful Doon in the 



SCOTLAND. b9> 

suininer-tinie is most deliglitful. The Burns Monu- 
ment stands near the new bridge. See, on the ground- 
'floor, memorials of the poet, and tlie Bible which lie 
gave to " Highland Mary." Good view from upper 
part of monument. Note tlie statues of Tarn O'Shan- 
ter and Souter Johnnie, in a grotto on S. N. E. of 
Ayr lies a country in which Burns laid the scene of 
many poems. It is accessible only by rural teams- 
or on foot. ML OUphant, where Burns lived when 
a child, and Tarbolton, Avhere he passed liis early 
manhood, and wliere he wrote "John Barleycorn,'^' 
" Now, whistling winds," etc., are but a few niiles>- 
from Alio way. 

A rly. runs S. from Ayr to May bole (9 M.), the 
old capital of Carrick, and the scene of Scott's " Ayr- 
shire Tragedy," near which are the ricli ruins of CrosS" 
raguel Abheji (founded about 1240) and Banure Castle ; 
also the splendid Ciilzean, Castle, vi^here the Earls of 
Cassilis have held court for centuries, on cliffs over 
the sea. 7 M, S. of Maybole are the ruins of Turn- 
berry Castle, made famous by Robert Bruce and Wal- 
ter Scott. 22 M. by rail from Ayr is Qlroan, 10 M. 
off shore from which Ailsa Craig rises from the sea, 
1;100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. The rly. runs farther 
S. to Portpatrick ; Stranraer; Glenluce, near the ruins 
of Luce Abbey (founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey ;,^ 
picturesque little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the 
scene of Scott's " Bride of Lammermoor ; " and other 
looahties famous in the chronicles of the borders and" 
the sea, — the Bruce, the Wallace, and the Cove- 
nanters. 

Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40 M.) in an after 
noon. (Fares, 5s., 4s., 33.) Leaving Ayr for Glas- 
gov/, in 6^ M. the train reaches Troon, the chief sea- 
port and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the^^" 



^€0 Paisley. — Glasgow. 

igreat ruins of Dundonald Castle, the home of the 
founder of the Stuart dynasty; a branch line runs 
(9 M.) to KilmaniocJc, where Burns's poems were first 
published. Beyond Troon, the Glasgow train passes 
Irvine, where the poet Montgomery w^as born, where 
Burns lived for a time, and where Robert Bruce sur^ 
rendered to the English army under Percy. 3| M. 
farther on is Kilwinning , w^ifch the ruins of an ancient 
priory, famous in Masonic annals; and also the impos- 
ing^Egiinton Castle, the seat of the Montgomeries. 

Paisley {'New Globe ; County) contains a magnifi- 
cent Town Hall ; a jail, w-hicli looks like a palace ; a 
■museum of local antiquities and relics ; and the Ahhey 
Church, founded in 1169. In the Reformation, Paisley 
was noted for its intense devotion to the Catholic re- 
ligion. The chapel of the abbey contains a "sound- 
ing aisle,'* so called from its remarkable echo. The 
nave, which remains entire, is used as a parish ch. 
Paisley (once a Roman fortress) was of no importance 
until the last century; but now its trade includes weav- 
ing, shawls, and thread-making (the estabhshments of 
Coats, and Clark & Co. are the largest of their kind in 
the M^orld), "Christopher North" was born here.' 
Not far from Paisley is the farm of Moorhouse, where 
Robert Pollok, author of " The Course of Time," was 
horn, in 1798. See Crookston Castle, where Queen 
Mary was betrothed to Darnley, half-way between 
.Paisley and 

Glasgow. 

(Hotels: St. Enoclis; Windsor; Grand; JV. British; 
Bath; Central). The American tourist will find a 
vast deal to occupy his attention in this, the second 
<iity in population and commercial importance in Great 
i^ritain. A small Roman colony once occupied this 



SCOTLAND. 61 

site. About the year 560 St. Mungo founded a 
religious house here, and the village was nurtured 
bv the Church for a thousand years. At the Re- 
formation Ghisgow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and 
in 1708 it had 12,776. But towards the end of the 
IBlh century it began to increase enormously ; 
and in 1901 the population was 760,000. The im- 
porf^ation of tobacco from Virginia and Mary* 
land was long one of the chief brandies of industry. 
To-day, this town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liv- 
erpool in sliipping, Mancliester in cotton-spinning, 
Newcastle in coal, the Thanies and the Tyne in iron 
sliip-biiilding, and Wolverhampton in iron furnaces. 
The perseverance of the Scotch in converting the Clyde 
into a vast harbor, cannot be too much admired. Glas- 
gow was the first city in Europe to possess a regular 
line of steamboats. In 1812-18 steam-packets crossed 
tiie Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast, It 
was in Glasgow that James Watt perfected his famous 
invention. In 1718 the first ship, a little craft of -60 
tons, left Glasgow for the New World. The statistics 
show that 13,071 ships (6,662,501 tons) entered or 
left the port in 1880. The commercial fleet of Glasgow 
was 1,088 ships and 532 steamers. The movement of 
Greenock was 7,890 ships (1,943,200 tons). 

Walk down to the splendid Glasgoio Bridge, from 
which there is a fine view of the *Broomielaw, or 
Harbor, on which more than £2,000,000 has been 
spent. The Broomielaw is 400 ft. wide, and extends 
down the stream for 1^ M., walled on either side by su- 
perb ranges of docks, along which ships are laid three 
or four deep. I'rom the Bridge upstream a good view 
of the Custom House on the N. bank is commanded. 
The works on the Clyde have cost £8,500,000, <5f 



€2 GLASGOW. 

$42,500,000. Ill 1760 James Watt reported a maxi 
inuin depth of water at tiie Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in. 
Now, as tlie result of the constant dredgmg, vessels 
drawing 23 ft. of water enter freel^^ Glasgow is in 
the famous Lanarkshire black district, which has a- 
great coal-field, rich also in seams of ironstone. There 
are so many blast furnaces here that the sky to the S,. 
and S. E. is lighted up nightly with their glow as if hv 
a great conflagration. 

The E. section of the city includes the main business 
part, and the objecis of antiquarian interest. The W. 
is the section for residences of the fashionable people j 
and on the S. are the great; public works. Biichanan^- 
Si. is handsomely built, and contains the finest shops 
and offices. Argi/le-St., 3 M. long (including Trongate 
and Gallowgate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St. 
is an avenue extending the whole length of the city 
and passing through George Square. This is a cen- 
tral pohit, and lies close to the two ])rincipal rly. stats. 
In the centre stands the Scoit Monument, a fluted col- 
umn surmounted by a gigantic statue. On the E. and 
1¥. are equestrian bronze statues of Queen Yictoria 
and the Prince Consort. There are also figures of 
James Watt, by Chautrey ; the exquisite statue of Sir 
John Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Elaxman ; one 
of Dr. Livingstone, the traveller ; and others to Camp- 
bell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Ptobert Burns, Lord 
Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the S. is the General 
Fost-Office, plain but spacious; and on the E. is the nev?" 
municipal buildings. The Banh of Scotland and the 
Merchants' House occupy the W. side. The RoyaJ 
Exchange is in the Corinthian style, with rich colon- 
nades. Strangers are admitted to the news-room, 130 
ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched roof. 
See Hutchesoii s Hospital. Corinthian buildings with a 



SCOTLAND. 63 

higli tower, founded in 1641 by two brothers ; and 
also in Ingram Street the old Glasgow Assembly Booms/ 
also St. David's Ch. and the Mitchell Library. In 
Argyle-St., at the so-called Cross of Qlasgoio, whence 
High-St., Gallotcgate, London-St., and Saltmarket di- 
verge, stands an equestrian statue of "William III. At 
the corner of the High-St. and Trangate formerly 
stood the old Court House, in front of which criminals 
were executed, and the ancient jail, of which "VYalter- 
Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a relic of the old- 
municipal splendor. The ancient Saltmarket, Princes- 
St., and Kings-St., and the adjacent closes and wynds, 
on Saturday evenings afford scenes of violence and 
brutality among the lower classes. Walk up High-St. 
on the E. side from the Trongate to the Cathedral. 
See old Glasgow College (built 1632-52, in quaint and 
gloomy monastic forms), now a rly. stat. Opposite, at. 
the corner of High and College Sts., is the house in 
which Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Fartheir 
on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where, in 
1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice their num- 
ber of Englishmen, and Wallace clove Lord Percy's 
head in twain ; and a little beyond this is the homely 
Baroiig Ch., once in charge of Dr. Norman MacLeod. 
The Cathedral is, famous as one of the two CathoHc 
«hs. spared in Scotland by the fury of the Reformation. 
'The Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magis- 
trates in 1579 to have it torn down ; but the corpora- 
tions of the city rose in arms, and prevented it. Two 
stone "idols" were taken out of their nooks and broken 
to pieces, as Scott has told us, " and the auld Kirk 
stood as crouse as a cat v/hen the flaes are kaimed off 
her, and a'body was alike pleased." (Admittance dail}^ 
except Sun., 10-6 ; Tues. and Thurs., 2d.) Tins noble 
structure is dedicated to St. Keutigern, or St. Mungo,. 



64 GLASGO~^^ CATHEDRAL, 



the founder of ihe sec vi Gk?^ow, who was buried on 
the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is pic- 
turesquely located; and above it, on terraces almost 
•oriental in tiieir construction, arises the Kecropolis, 
the finest cemetery in the city, with ricli slirubber- 
ics and crowds of monunieiit/; approaclied from the 
cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement 
of the^ inonumeuts is very reiriarkable, and forms a 
noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most 
noted monuments are those of John Knox the B.e- 
former, Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major 
Monteith, Climbhig to the summit one overlooks the 
tast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its 
forests of chinnieys, and of masts along the Clyde, and 
the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The 
original cathedral was founded in the reign of David I., 
in 1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it; and 
ihe inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the 
fact. Tlie cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide. 
"The W. door is rich and beautiful. Its general design 
is French, but tlic mouldings and details are English 
The interior contains 147 ])illars, and many of the 159 
windows are of very beautiful workmanship. The en- 
trance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Refor- 
mation, tlie ch. was divided into two parts, and service 
was held in each. For interesting details, see Fergus- 
son's ^/•(7/^?V(?(?f?/r(?. The *Ojypi is unique in beauty,^' 
and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of archi- 
tecture in Britain. It is supported by 65 pillars (18 ft. 
high), some of which are 18 ft. in circumference ; and 
illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groin- 
ings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs. 
In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the 
S. E. corner is St. Mungo's Well. See also the tomb 
of Edward Irvinsc, who died at Glasgow in 1834. 



SCOTLAND. 65 

(n " Rob Roy " there is an interesting description of 
this crypt. Other things to note are the stained- 
glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (ex- 
planations of the windows, 2d.) : the Dripping Aide, 
so called from tlie perpetual dripping of water from the 
roof; the Choir, locally known as the High 67/., now 
used as one of the city chs. ; magnificent organ here ; 
behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curi- 
ous old ch.-yard is literally paved with stone slabs, with 
inscriptions to the memory of local notables. 

The new University, the most imposing modern 
edifice in Scotland, is approached through Wed End 
Park : take the footpath from the bridge over the 
Kelvin. I'roni the platform, good view. The Univer- 
sity has a frontage of 600 ft., with fine central tower, 
310 ft. high. The architect was the late Sir G. Gilbert 
Scott. In general style the buildings are Early Eng- 
lish. The_ buildings will have cost £500,000." The 
museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, and natural his- 
tory, is open daily, 10-3 (admission, 6d.). In the 
ITunterian Library, valuable series of early printed 
books. The University was founded about" 1150 by 
Bishop Turnbull. In 15G0 Queen Mary endowed it 
with a moiety of the confiscated Church property in the 
city. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in 
the last century. Cullen and Black, Hunter and Reid, 
Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names asso- 
ciated with it. Near by is the Botanical Garden. The 
Corporation Galleries of Art have valuable collections 
of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, etc.) ; 
also a marble statue of Pitt, by Elaxman, and por- 
traits of the English kings. Galleries open daily, Sim- 
'lays excepted. See St. Andreio's Palace and the 
Kelvin Grove Park and Mvsevm. The park contains 
a fountain commemorating the introduction of water 
5 



eQ DUMBARTON CASTLE. 

from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is tlie Iiidusfrial 
Museum. Near the University is the New Western^ 
Infirmary. The beautiful squares and tei'races in the 
"VV. contain the homes of the rich merchants, the " to- 
bacco lords," and the great ship-builders. 

Glasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. along 
the Clyde, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Nelson, 
and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching- 
on summer Sunday evenings. Li tliis park Prince. 
Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745 ; and here,, 
also. Watt was strolhng v/hen the central idea of the 
steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queen's 
Part is the village of Langside, where Queen Mary met 
with her final defeat, in 1668. A memorial stone marks 
the spot whence Mary witnessed the battle. 

Excursions around Glasgow. — To Greenock, 
by the river ; past the suburb of Govan and the ship- 
yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old royal burgh of 
Renfrew, near which Somerled, Thane of Argyll, was 
defeated and slain in 1164 ; Erskine Eerry, where the 
Earl of Argyll was captured, in 1685, in the disguise 
of a peasant ; Dalnottar and the craggy Kilpatrick 
Hills ; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle 
and the end of Antoninus's wall ; and Dunglaspoint, 
with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced 
steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle, 
at the junction of tlie Leven (Loch Lomond's outlet) 
and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 1 M. around and 
560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's 
Toioer. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there ; and 
liis huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a 
tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Rock at St. 
Patrick. The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scot- 
land by the British army, and commands the Clyde with 
batteriest. It was the capital of a Eoma:i province. 



SCOTLAND. 6T 

and afterwards repelled the Norwegian Vikings. It 
was held by Robert Bruce in 1309; and in 1571 Capt. 
Crawford carried it by escalade, at night. In 1653 
it was taken by Cromwell's troops. At the portculis 
may be seen carven heads of Wallace, and Menteith, 
his betrayer. At the summit the remains of a 
Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some 
time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of 
Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King 
Eobert Bruce died, in 1329. Greenock (^Tontine 
"Hotel; White Mart; Royal; rail, from Glasgow, 
Is. 6d. ; population, 80,000) is one of the chief sea- 
ports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situ- 
ated. Vast new docks are being built. The ship- 
yards are among the largest on the Clyde. The 
ocean steamers for New York take their passengers 
and mails at the Tail of the Banh. Fine view, from 
the shore, of the mts. of Argyllshire and Dumbarton- 
shire. Burns's "Highland Mary" is buried in the 
old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James 
Watt, by Chantrey, in a memorial building in Union- 
St. Travellers going to Oban and Inveraray should 
take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is 
Helensburgh {Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty 
town, much frequented in summer by pleasure- 
seekers. The Gareloeh is the name of a fine sea- 
basin (steamers ply on it), which stretches N. from 
Helensburgh for about 7^ M. Its shores are covered 
with beautiful villas, Boseneath, Ardincaple Castle, 
.etc. The famous Olen Fruin lies on the E. 

Another good excursion can be made in one day by 
Caledonian Bly. to Hamilton, passing through^-w/Aer- 
glen, a royal burgh as early as 1126. Hamilton 
{County Hotel; Clydesdale) contains many interest- 
ing historical places. See site of King's Head, where 
Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland; and 



68 HAMILTON PALACE. — LANARK. 

the old Steeple and Pillon/, built in tlie reign ol 
CliarJes I. Hamilton Palace, seat of the Diike of 
Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beatitifid park ; 
2 M. S. E. are the luins of Cachoio Caslle. On BofJi- 
well Bridge, 2 M. IM. of Hamilton, a famous encoun- 
ter between the Covenanters and tlie lloval forces 
took place in 1679. A little beyond is Boihiccdl, noted 
for its old'ch., where Robert, Duke of llothesay, was 
married. Bothwell Castle (adnsission, Tues. and 
Tri., 10-3 ; see local guide-books) is on the r. bank 
of the Clyde, 1 M. from the village. The ruins afford 
an almost perfect example of Norman architecture. 
See the circular toAvers ; remains of tlie chapel, with 
shafted windows ; and a circular dungeon called Wal- 
lace'' fi Beef-barrel. The walls are covered with ivy and 
wild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Botliwell 
is extremely interesting. 

Lanark {^Clydesdale HokT) was th^ scene of many 
of Wallace's exploits. There is a statue of him at the 
parish ch. Corra Linn is 1^ M. S., a beautiful fall 
of 85 ft. ; and the pretly Bonuington Limi is \ M. 
beyond. Sloneln/res TJmi is 2\ M. N. of Lanark, near 
the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained. 

The Scottish Highlands. 

A Jlound, Trip from Gla.'>,gov.-i to Glasgow hy icaj/ of Loch 
Lo7nond, Loch Kafrtiic, the Trossacks, and Callatider ; 
from Callajulcr in Oban : with Excursions from Ohan to 
Stafa, Lona, and Tnvcmcss ; and from Otmn fo Glasgow, 
by the Grinan Canal and Rothesay. 

We recommend this route as giving a wide survey 
of typical Scotch mt., lake, and coast scenery, within 
a brief period and at small cost. The trip through 
the loclis and the Trossachs to Callander begi^ts at the 



SCOTLAND. 69 

Queeii-St. stat. in Glasgow, at 7.40 a.m. Buy a ticket 
for Inversnaid, tlie point at wliicli Locli Lomond is 
left (fare, 9s. 3d.), and proceed by train to Balloch (20 
M.). The route passes Dumbarton, and gives a good 
view of Wallace's Seat; through the valley where, in 
the parish of Cardross, Smollett, the historian and 
novelist, was born ; and up the glen of the Leven's 
transparent water. At Balloch the train stops close 
to the steamer. 

Loch Lomond is certainly very be^atiful when the 
sunlight plays upoy the water and on the guardiaii 
nits. It is about 23 M. long, and, at its S. end, 5 
M. broad. Under the base of Ben Itomond it is 120' 
fathoms deep. The area covered by water is 20,000 
acres ; 32 islands are scattered over the lake, bearing 
ruins of ancient monasteries and castles. Most of these 
belong to the Duke of Montrose, who uses Itichmurnn, 
the largest, as a deer-pai'k. "Loch Lomond," says 
Baddeley, "has neither tlie matchless depth and delU 
cacy of coloring which characterizes the foot of Lock 
Katrine, nor the wild grandeur of Loch Coruisk, nor, 
in fairness let us add, the dignity of Loch Maree; but 
... it blends together in one scene a greater variety 
of the elements wliich we admire in lake scenery than 
any other Scottish loch." The steamer leaves Balloch 
Castle on the r. ; passes to the r. of Inchmurrin, with 
its ruined Castle, and calls first at Balmaha. Near by 
is Inchcailloch, the " Island of Women " (so called be- 
cause a nunnery once existed there). It is the burying- 
place of the Macgregors. The next landing-place is 
Luss, on the 1. ; a picturesque little village, with a 
good hotel. Fine view of the lake from Strone Bra» 
hill. As the boat moves N., the great mass of Beit 
Lomond comes fully into view. Roioardemum, on the 
r., has a hotel. Here is the best starting-point for the 



70 BEN LOMOND. — TAKBET. 

ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. liigli, and tlie favor, 
ite climb in Scotland. Tlie rougli pony-track begins 
opposite the hotel, and climbs over the ridge between 
Xiocli Lomond and the Loch-ard valley. Ascenls also 
are made from Inversnaid and Aberfoil. In clear 
weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and tiie 
Eirth of Forth, can be seen. Time from llowarden- 
iian, 2-3 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s. 
Opposite llowardennan is Glen Douglas {Jnrenifjlas 
Hotel), from which point a pretty road leads to Loch 
Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by ferj-y across 
the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of 
Ben Lomond, and crosses to the 1. bank, to 

Tarbet {M^Pherson's Hotel, good but dear), charm- 
ingly situated, 8 M. from the head of the loch. From 
thence coach may be taken to Loch Long, or to In- 
verary by Glencroe (24 M. ; fare, 8s.). Loch Long 
{salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well- 
Avooded istlnnus. Glencroe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. 
high. From here the road to luverary turns N., 
and skirts the upper edge of Loch Fyne. Inverary 
(^Argyll Arms ; George) is a small town celebrated 
as tlie Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll 
(the MacCallum Mor), Inverary Castle, the ducal 
Tesidence, is an ugly building in the midst of beautiful 
grounds. This point may be reached by other routes 
from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the 
fdes (fares, 7s. 6d., 6s., 5s.). 

From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid, 
where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. Tlie head 
of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. 1 M. above is Rob 
Roy's Cave, a narrow opening in tlie bank near the 
water's edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his 
prisoners. Ardlui is the last town on the lake ; coaches 
to Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rlj. to Oban. 



SCOTLAND. 71 

Inversnaid lias a comfortable liotel. Theve is a 
scramble for places on the coaches for Loch Katrine ; 
and the canny Scot exacts 2d. pier dues from each person. 
The Inversnaid Waterfcdl is where Wordsworth met 
the " Highland Girl," of w^om he sang so sweetly. 
Opposite Inversnaid is hiveruglas Isle, on which are 
the rnius of an ancient castle of the Macfarlanes. The 
road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep 
hili, by tlie hovels pointed ont as the former homes 
of Eob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of Invers- 
naid. erected to check the depredations of Rob Roy's 
band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quartered there; and 
Loch Arklet, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a 
bay near the W. end of Loch Katrine. At the hotel 
here a good lunch can be obtained. 

Loch Katrine (or Cateran, " Robbers' Lake ") is 
Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000 
people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed 
from tiiis lovely basin for 34 M. Tlie aqueduct re- 
quired the building of 70 tunnels, and cost £1,500,000. 

A Lilliputian steamer (fare, 2s. 6d.) carries you past 
EUenU Isle (see "The Lady of the Lake "), the Silver 
Strand, and the Goblin's Cave ; and affords glimpses 
of "huge Ben Venue." The loch is 8 M. long, and 
averages f M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must 
have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems " one bur- 
nished sheet of living gold." 

You land where all the beauties of the lake are 
concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up 
through the gorge to the Trossac'hs Hotel (I M.). The 
Trossachs, the " bristling country," gains in loveli- 
ness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a 
ride through this leafy glen, with the rain rustling in 
tlie trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to 
Loch Achray, between the ran^p of Ben A'an, on th« 



7-3 LOCH ACIIRAY. — LOCH VENNACHAR. 

r. (1,500 ft.), and Ben Avenue (2,393 ft.), on tlie 1. In 
this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan 
and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, tlie most prosaic 
traveller may well become enthusiastic. Walter Scott's 
poems arc good companions here. In Scott's early 
days there was no road through this pass. The Tros- 
sachs Hotel is a pretty (and dear) house. Excursions 
thence to Ben Venue and Ben A'an and the Pass of 
Beal-nam-bo. By the Aberfoyle coach from the 
Trossachs you have finer view, but you miss the 
Brig o' Turk and much else of great interest. 

Jjktances by Boad. — Loch Katrine to Trossachs 
Hotel, 1 M. ;'Loch Achray, 2| ; Brigg of Turk, 8^ ; 
Loch Veiniachar, 4-| ; Coilantogle Ford, 7 ; Callander, 
9|. Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil 
beauiy. It is 3 M. long, and the shores are clad with 
copse to the very water's edge. " The Lady of the 
Lake " will be found the best guide here. You next 
reach the Brig o' Turh, where, in the famous chase, as 
Sir Waiter informs us, "the headmost horseman rode 
alone." Near this bridge over Achray Water is the 
blackened ruin of the New Trossachs Hotel. Line 
view of Ben Venue from here. jN'ext come the l)un- 
craggan Huts: and then -Loch ■Vennachar (i M. 
long), the "Lake of the Lair Valley." On tlie N. 
shore is Ben Ledi, the " Hill of God "' (2,875 ft.). To 
climb Ben Ledi by the Bass of Lenij is an admirable 
excursion. Here you are in the real Highland country. 
The hills are aglow Avith purple colors ; the black-faced 
cattle with widely projecting horns look down defiantly 
at you from the steep pasturages ; a countryman in 
kilt trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle 
Ford, " Clan-Alpine's outmost guard," where Roderick 
Dim challenged Fitz J.amesi and bring up in Cah 



SCOTLAND. 7^^- 

lander. Here you may take train to Stirling and. 
Edinburgh ; but if you desire to see tlie real High- 
lands, continue on our route. 

Callander (Hotels, Dreadyioiight, Yevjj good; An- 
caster Arms) is in the centre of a delicious country. 
1| M. from the town are the Bracklinn Falls. A pleas- 
ant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny 
to Strathyre, returning by train (8^ M. to walk). It- 
is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs. ; pony audi 
guide, 10s.), and stand on the smooth green summit- 
where the ancient Druid fires were kept. 

From Callander to Oban. — Rly. fare, 1st class,. 
12s. ; time, 3-4 hrs. This line is one of the most- 
beautiful in Scotland, and was one of the most ex- 
pensive. Including the harbor-works at Oban, it cost - 
£645,000. The line crosses the Teith; skirts the base- 
of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Fass of Leny, which ex- 
tends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. Tliis- 
loch is 5 M. long and I M. broad, and surrounded by 
high mts. Near the Falls of Leny is the churchyard- 
of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the " Lady of the 
Lake." Just beyond Loch Lubnaig the rly. crosser 
tiie River Bahag, and passes Strathyre and King's- 
House stat., whence Balquhidder and Loch Foil can be- 
visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old lA^y- 
covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover- 
the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately 
connected with the history of the Macgregors. The- 
road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn- 
and Ben Forlich, on the E. It next traverses Glem- 
Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-400 ft. 
above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Docharf^ 
above which rises Ben More, is next passed; afteir 
which Crianlarich stat. (coaches to Loch Lomond) isi- 
reached. A fine- stretch of Highland landscape is seei^ 



74 LOCH A WE. -OB AN. 

shortly before arriving at Dalmally. Just beyond 
Dalmally, Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque 
of the Highland lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached. 
Near it is Ben Gruaolian (3,611 ft.); and in the lake 
:are many islands, the largest being the Island of tlte 
Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilcliurn 
Castle; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are 
the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former 
seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards 
the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orchy on a 
viaduct. From Taynuilt, on Loch Etive, a steamer 
may be taken, and a circular trip to Glencoe (34 M.) 
and Balacliulish (41 M.) begun. Beyond is ConneJl 
Ferry, near the Falls of Connell. To the r. stands 
the ivy -mantled Ardchattan Priory, built in 1231 by 
the Lord of Lome, and bui-ned during the wars of 
Montrose. 

Oban (hotels, good, but expensive: Ot. Western; 
Alexandra; Caledonian ; Station; King's Arms; 
and, on the hill, the Grand, on the Craigard Road) 
is the most central point for excursions through this 
weird northern land of lochs and islands, which has 
always had a strange glamour of romance about it. 
It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables 
and members of the English nobility and the re- 
public of letters. Oban extends along and above a 
pretty bay, and is the most accessible place N. of 
Olasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a few 
yards of the shore. Bunollie Castle, 1 M. distant, 
nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the N. end of 
the bay, and covered with ivy, was built by the 
Lords of Lome, and is now owned by their descend- 
ants, the M'Dougalls. The rocky island of Kerr era, 
4 M. long, serves as a breakwater to the bay. 
It w^as here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Nor- 
way, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his 
. disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also, 



SCOTLAND. 755- 

Aiv .viuiL.v.. II. died, in 1249. Tlio seaward view froim 
the lieights, reached by Craigard road, is ver}^ iiiie. 
Scott made tlie popularity of Oban by his poem, " Tlie 
Lord of the Isles," the scene of which is laid here- 
abouts, and in the islands on the W. Fine promenade 
along the bay. Dunstaffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E.^ 
was the seat of the Scottish monarchs for more than 
3 centuries (a. d. 300-600). There was the famous 
Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster. 
Admission to the castle, free. 

To Stafla and lona is a sea voyage of about 90 M. 
(10 hrs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a.m. Pare, about 
20s., including the laudings at Stalfa and lona. The ' 
steamer passes on the r. Dunollie and Maiden Idand, 
and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of Lkmore, near 
which is the Lady Rock, where, according to tradition, 
a vindictive Highlander left his wife to perish by the 
rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound 
of Mull, which separates Mull from the mainland ;. 
crosses the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived 
Dr. Norman MacLeod, the former editor of Good 
Words ; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of Alex- 
ander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the Caliack 
Foitit, whence a good view N. can generally be had as 
far as Skye ; and then goes S. to 

The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of 
irregular oval shape, and \\ M. around. This island, 
and lona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When 
the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed 
in small boats into the mouth of Fingal's Cave, 60- 
70 ft. in height, supporting an entablature of 30 l"t. 
additional. The pillars by which it is bounded on Ihe 
W. side are 36 ft. high-, on the E. only 18 ft. Th& 
length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained througn- 
the end of the causeway at low water. The front and 



7Q IONA.-CALEDONIAN CANAL 

.sides are composed of countless ranges of colnmns. 
A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staff a, to take 
«are of the sheep; but the noice of the waveo was so 
dismal that they begged to be taken away. 8 M. S. 
is lona (4 square M. in area), which was founded in 
the 6th century by St. Coiumba and the Culdees, and 
often ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit the 
ruins of the Nunnery of St. Mary, dating from the ]3t]i 
century; and the ancient Cathedral; also the great 
Stone Cross, the only one rem.aining of 360 once stand- 
ing on the island, but lu'oken and thrown into the sea 
at the Pteformation. The run back to Oban by the S. 
of Mull is, in fine weather, very charming. Do not 
forget plenty of wraps and waterproofs. 

Another excursion, made in one day, is from Oban to 
Loch Etive, Glen Etive, and Glencoe, and thence to 
Balachulish, returning by Loch Linnhe. Time, about 
10 hrs. ; fare, by rail and steamer, 25s. Another is 
froni Oban to Ford by the Pass of Melfort, returning 
by Loch Awe and the Oban Rly. This may be made 
comfortably between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Tares, 17s., 
15s. 6cl. Another is to Fort William, Ben Nevis, and 
Banacie, interesting, but long, for vacation tourists. 

The Galedciiian Canal. — People who have time 
to go to Inverness should take steamer through the 
great Caledonian Canal, built 1803-47, and 60| M. 
long. It was necessary to cut through only 23 M., 
as the sheets of fresh water which abound in the Great 
Glen of Scotland were utilized. The depth of water is 
About 17 ft. The steamer going N. leaves Oban at 
5 P.M., and passengers sleep at Banavie {Banavie 
Hotel) or Fort William {Caledonian). Loch 
Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is famous 
for beautiful scenery. Fort William was one of the 
keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. Monk. Note 



SCOTLAND. 7T 

Invedocliy Castle, famous in ancient wars, near ths 
mouth of the Lundie. From Tort William to Banavie 
is 3 M. Ben Nevis, near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the 
highest mt. in Scotland. It is a vast mass of browu 
porphyry, cleft with glens and fissures ; and on it* 
crags the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M. 
in diameter, including all the chief peaks of Scotland. 
From Banavie, the ascent (8 M.) occupies 3^-5 hrs. 
(descent, 1^ hrs.). Glen Nevis is worth a visit. Shortly 
after leaving Banavie, the steamer passes (on the r.) 
the ruined Tor Castle. On the W. side of Loch Lochy 
see the ruined home of Lochiel, whose fidelity and exile 
are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long ; and a canal, 
2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), the central 
lake of the chain, as well as the smallest and highest. 
On its W. shore stands Invergarry Castle, burned in 
the revolution of 1745 ; and near the castle is "The 
Well of Seven Heads," commemorating the vengeance 
on the murderers of the Keppochs. At Jberchalder 
the steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas- 
sengers can walk down in about 1^ hrs. At Fort 
Augustus is the College of St. Benedict, a vast pile of 
buildings in the Early Euglish Gothic style. Loch 
Ness, "the loch of the cataract," is 24 M. long, and 
iias a depth of 130 fathoms. At the pier of Foyers the 
steamer stops long enough to permit a visit to the 
beautiful Fall of Foyers (1 M. S.), "the most magnifi- 
cent cataract in Britain." The height of the larger 
fall is about 90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of 
the scene. There is a charming route along the hills, 
between Foyers and Inverness. This is the country 
for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of the great peak 
of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins of Urquhart Castle, 
oesieged in 1303 by the troops of Edward 1. The 
guides show an arrangement in the windows for pout*' 



78 IXVERNESS.-NAIRN. 

ing molten lead on besiegers. 8 M. from Urquliarty 
Loch Dochfour is entered by a narrow passage, ^ M, 
long; and the steamer presently reaches 3Iuirtomi, 
a suburb of 

Inverness {Royal Hotel ; Caledonian ; ^Station ; 
Imperial). This venerable capital of the Highlands 
is situated at the mouth of the river Ness, wliere the 
basins of the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen 
of Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore, 
James I., Qaeen Mary, Montrose, and other famous 
Scots are connected with its history. The new 
Cathedral of /St. Andrew is a beautiful decorated 
Gothic ch. '6 M. out is the battlefield of Culloden, 
where the hopes of the House of Stuart were finally 
extinguished, in 1746. The cairn of stones marks 
the place where the battle took place ; and the large 
bowlder shows where the Duke of Cumberland took 
up his position. An excursion may be made from 
Inverness to Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by 
Shakespeare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial 
strongholds. Splendid view from the battlements. 
Nairn, 15:^ M. from Inverness, is a fashionable resort 
for sea-bathing. JSTear it is Auldearn, where Mon- 
trose won a great battle over the Covenanters, who 
lost 2,000-3,000 men. The Inverness region was the 
scene of Hugh Miller's geological researches. Persons 
who have come from Oban to Inverness may go 
down to Edinburgh via Stirling (213;^ M. ; fares, 
34s. 6d., 25s. lOd., 18s.). 

From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the 
Crinan Canal. This charming journey may be 
made between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. (fares, 13s., 7s. 6d.); 
and we recommend it as the test way back. 
The Chevalier, Grenadier, Columba, are mag- 
nificent boats, equipped on an American scale 
of comfort. From Oban the boats go down 
the Sound of Kerrera, pass Cfylen Castle and 



SCOTLAND. 75 

ilie island of Mull, through the Firth of Lome, and 
the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one or two 
places where the boat emerges into open water, and so 
nothing is to be feared from sea-sickness. The route 
lies inside the island of Sell to Blackmill Bay, and past 
the mouth of Loch Craig7nsh, leaving Shmia and Luing 
Idands on the r. At Crinan passengers are trans- 
ferred from tlie boat to a little steamer, and carried 
through tlie Crinan Canal, 9 M. long, to Loch Fyne.- 
The canal was built (in 1801) to obviate the necessity 
of doui)ling the Mtill of Kintyre, a dangerous route olf 
■^0 M. Tiie vievrs are prelty, and tlie passage of ilie 9' 
locks is curious ; llie journey is well worth taking. At 
Ardrishaig passengers go ou the Cohimha, a large" 
•\\v\ line steamer. Dinner is served on board (3s.). 
Look well to your baggage. Fi^nii Ardrisliaig the boat 
moves down Locli Fync to Tarbert. Good views of 
1 he pesiks of Ben Cruachcni on the K, and the Arraa 
nits, on the S. After a pleasant passage through the 
picturesque Kijles of Bute, a strait between Bute and 
the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay {Queen's 
Hotel; Victoria; Bute Arms), a handsome town of 
about 8,000 inhab., the capital of the island of Bute 
(18 X 5 M. in area),st!mding by a fiue bav. Hero are 
the ruins of Bofhescuj Castle, built before 1100; 
and once a royal residence. The dukedom of 
llothesay vras the first conferred in Scotland. The 
brother of the Earl of Ai-gyll burned the castle in 
1685. See the ruins of the choir of the old Kirk of 
St. Mary. Eothesfiy is a favorite summer resort. The 
climate is very mild and genial. Consumptive invalids 
have found a decided benetit at Rothesay. Hydro- 
pathic establishments near the town. Froin Rothesay 
to Dunoon {Argyll; Grown; McColVs) is a sail of 
10 M. Dunoon is one of the large watering-places on. 



80 STIRLING. 

the Clyde, and tlie neighborliood is picturesque. From 
Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passengers 
€an save about 1 lir. by taking train from Greenock to 
Glasgow. 

• 

Glasgow to Stirling, Perth, Dundee, 
Aberdeen, and Edinburgh. 

We now'reeommend the traveller to go ])y rail (30 M.; 
fares, 5s, lOd., 2s. 5d.) from Glasgow direct to 

Stirling {Golden. Lion Hotel ; Royal ; Station), one 
of the most interesting towns in Scotland. It is on 
the river Forth ; and its Castle stands on the top of a 
Imge rock overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling. 
Here Alexander I. died in 1124 ; and in 1304 the stout 
fortress sustained a three-months' siege by Edward I. 
A.11 the besieging implements in the Tower of London 
were brought up ; and it was due to one of these ter- 
.rible engines, called " The Wolf," that the castle sur- 
Teudered. This was the key of the main passage 
between the N. and S. of Scotland. Edward II. 
fought the fatal battle of Bannockburn, in his endeavor 
to raise the siege laid to the proud castle. Edward 
Balliol captured it after the death of Bruce ; and King 
David recovered it only after a violent siege. It was 
a royal residence under the Stuarts. James II. and 
James V. were born here ; James III. built the Par- 
liament House; James IV. made it his favorite resi- 
dence. James V. built the Palace, which occupies the 
S. W. portion. The sculptures are very rich and gro- 
tesque. A few of the original " Stirling heads " — 
w3oden effigies of the Scotch kings — maybe seen ia 
the old Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was 
taken by Gen. Monk in 1051, and beat off Pnuce 
jCharles in 1745. In the Donglas Room the powerful 



SCOTLAND. 81 

Earl of Douglas was stabbed by his sovereign. 
Stirling Castle is now an infantry barrack. The 
view from the hattlements is imposing. The Vale of 
Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben A'an, Ben 
Ledi, are all distinctly seen. N.-E. are the Ochil 
Hills; S., the Campsie Hills; and on the iST., the 
Abbey Craig, Cambiiskenneth Abbey, the Wallace 
Monument, and the Bridge of Allan. See the Bruce 
Jlonumenf ; the Bach Walk "W. of the Castle Kock; 
the Grey friars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV. 
(James VI. was crowned there in 1567, and John 
Knox preached the coronation serjnon); ArgyWs 
Lodging and Mars Work, the most interesting- of 
th.Q old houses; the Toivn House, in Broad-St., in 
front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic Ai'ch- 
bishop of Scotland, was hanged in 1571; Coivans 
Hospital ; the Cemetery (many statues), S. of the 
Esplanade ; the Old Bridge, near which was fought 
the battle of Stirling (1297), when the Scots under 
Wallace defeated the English. A carriage to tlie 
Castle costs 2s. 6d. 

Excursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth 
Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the richest 
abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace Mo7iument 
(by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 feet high, on a rock 
called Abbey Craig (560 feet). — To Lake of Meji- 
teith and beautiful Aberf oil, on the river Forth. — To 
Bridge of Allan (3 M.), resorted to for the Airthrey 
chalybeate water. Dunblane {Stirling Arms), neai* 
by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St. Blane, a 
good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was rebuilt 
in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers in 1559. 
Battlefield of Sheriffmuir (1715) close by. Beyond 
Dunblane, is DoMwe Castle. — To Bannockburn,where 
Robert Bruce and 30,000 Scots defeated Edward II. 
and 100,000 Englishmen, restoring the indepen* 



82 PERTH. — DUNKELD. - 

dence of Scotland. — To the noble ruins of Linliihgow 
Palace, — a favorite seat of the kings of Scotland. 

Perth {British Hotel ; Royal George; Queen's ; Sain- 
tation) may be visited from Stirling ((39 M.; fares, 5s. 
6d., 4s. 2cl., 2s. 9d.), It is a superbly situated city, 
of 30,000 inbab., with monuments to Scott and Prince 
Albert, and a handsome new Anglican cathedral. In 
the quaint Ch. of St. John, John Knox preached. The 
North Inch and South Inch, by the side of the Tay, are 
the parks of the city, and were the scene of the battle 
described in The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agricola 
established Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al- 
ready a town ; and from tlic overthrow of tlie Picts 
until 1437 (600 years) it was tlie capilal of Scotland. 
In 1210 it became a royal burgh; in 1310 Robert 
Rruce stormed its walls ; and in 1437 James I. was 
murdered here. An old house in Curfew Row is be- 
lieved to be that described by Scott as the liome of the 
"Fair Maid." Scone Palace, on llie site of the 
famous old Abbey of Scone, in which the Scottish kings 
were crowned, is 2-| M. N. 

The Highland "^Rly., wliich extends 144 M, from 
Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to 
Wick, passes through some of the loveliest scenery in 
Scotland. Dunkeld {Birnam; Royal), on this line, 
16 M. from Perth, has a rare old catiicdral, and is close 
to Birnam Hill. On this hue also is the Pasf< of Kill ie- 
erankie, a remarkable bit of glen scenery. The field 
w^hei-e Dundee's Highland clans crnsl.ed William III.'s 
redcoats in 1689, is near by. Fitlochrie {Fisher's 
Hotel) and Blair Athole {At hole Arms ; Bridge of 
Tilt^ are tlie best points for excursions. 

Prom Perth a trip can be made (22 M.; fares, 3s. 6d., 
2s. 6d., Is. 9d.) to Dundee {Queen's Hotel ; Royal; 
Moyal British Ilotel], the third town in Scotland in 



SCOTLAND. S3 

population (150,000), and the principal seat of the Brit- 
ish linen and jute trades. It is on the N. bank of the 
Tay, 12 M. from its mouth, and has a fine range of 
docks, covering- 40 acres. See the Customs Offices, 
and tlie Royal Arch ; also the Esplanade, running from 
Mie Craig Pier to Magdalen Point, where the Tay 
Bridge liad its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft.' 
high, is all ihnt remains of old St. Mary's Ch., founded 
by David, Earl of Huntingdon, on his return from the 
Crusades. The Royal Exchange, in Albert-Square, the 
Albert Institute, and the Free Library are worth visit- 
ing. Within easy reach of Dundee or Perth is Brechin, 
with interesting rnins of a catliedral aud castle, and an 
ancient round tower ; Montrose^ a quaint little seaport, 
once a royal burgh ; Bunottar Castle, towards Aber- 
deen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea ; and Arbroath, 
a busy port, with fine ruins of an abbey founded in 
1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) is St. Andrews, a grave, 
neat, and picturesque port, with the oldest university 
in Scotlaud (founded 1411), and the Madras College. 
It is " a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins," having 
the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, the myste- 
rious Tower of St. Regulus, part of tlie castle-palace 
of the primates of Scotlaud, a beautiful fragment of the 
Dominican monastery, and two fine old chs. From 
Dundee to Forfar (21 M.; fares, 3s. 8d., 2s. 9d., Is. 
9d.) is a pleasant journey. In the County Hall of 
Forfar is preserved the Witch's Bridle, placed as a gag 
on the mouths of the miserable victims burned for 
witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 M. W. of Forfar, is 
a grand old baronial edifice, celebrated by Scott aud 
Shakespeare. From Forfar those who have the time 
may go along the coast (fares, 9s. 6d., 7s. 2d., 4s. 9d.) 
to Aberdeen {Imperial Hotel ; Palace ; Douglas's). 
Steamers to Leith and London ; and N. to Wick, 



84 ABERDEEN.-BALMORAL CASTLE, 

Thurso, Kirkwall (the Orkneys), and Lerwick (the 
Shetlands). Aberdeen, ' ' the Granite City," is a finely 
built town of 105,000 inh. on a cluster of hills on the 
Dee, at its mouth. The Dee is crossed by four hand- 
some bridges. Union- St., 1 M. long, with its vista of 
grayish white granite, is much admired. The ancient 
^. and W. Cits, contain some curious monuments, 
and the tomb of Beattie the poet. See the statue of 
Prince Albert ; handsome Grothic Toimi and Countif 
J^uildings; the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with 
]nedallions of the Scottish monarchs ; and the hand- 
some Marischal College (founded 1593). The docks 
cover 34 acres and admit the largest ships. Aberdeen 
ftlipper-ships are famous the world over. 1 M. N. lies 
Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient King's College 
(1494), famous for exquisite wood carving, in chapel ; 
and the Cathedral of St. Machar. The Auld Brig'o' 
Balgownie, celebrated by Byron in Don Juan, is -t 
M. N. The Deeside Ely. runs to Ballater (43^ M."; 
fares, 6s. lOd., 3s. TkL), whence coaches to Braemar 
(18 M, ; fares, 5s., 4s. ; to Balmoral, 2s. 6d., 2s.); and 
tourists who have visited Aberdeen may return this 
way. Between Ballater and Braemar stands Balmo- 
ral Castle, the favorite residence of the late Queen. 
It is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of 
two blocks, connected by wings. The property was 
bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10, 000 acres 
of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of deer-forest. 
Braemar (Invercauld Arms; Fife Arms) is in the 
midst of a wildly picturesque country. From this 
point one may push on to Glen Tilt and Blair 
Atliole, and come down through the Killiecrankie 
Pass to Perth. Travellers vrho do not wish to visit 
Aberdeen, etc., can go from Dundee to Edinburgh 
by Burntisland. 



SCOTLAND. 85 

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford. 

Many persons will content themselves, after tlie trip 
through tlie Trossachs, to Oban and down, with a trip 
from Glasgow to Stirling and Edinburgh, The direct 
routes between the two principal cities of Scotland are 
uninteresting. Time, 1^-2^ hrs. ; fares, by express 
train, 6s. 6d., 5s. Distance, 48 M. Stirling to 
Edinburgh, 5s. 6d., 3s. lid., 2s. 6d.). 

Edinburgh {Balmoral, Royal, Clarendon, Palace^ 
Windsor, Central, Douglas, Royal BrUish; railway 
hotels at the Warerley and Caledonian Stations; 
private hotels, Bi^dford and Grosvenor) is one of 
the most beautiful tov/ns in Europe ; and history 
and legend, uniting their charms, have made it 
especially fascinating to the traveller. It has 
345,000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated 
in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from the 
Eirth of Forth. A large, open valley divides it into 
the Old and New Towns, the one a kind of epitome of 
the strange history of Scotland for the last 500 years ; 
and the other a singularly handsome and well-built 
modern town. There is a striking resemblance be- 
tween Edinburgh and Athens ; and it was from this 
fact that the Scottish capital acquired its title of the 
"Modern Athens." A fire destroyed the town in 
11537 ; and the oldest date on any private house is 
1657. It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock, 
called Arthur s Seat (because King Arthur defeated 
the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who gives liis 
name to the city, founded his "burgh" in the 7th 
century. For 400 years the city formed part of the 
Northumbrian kingdom. Early in the 11th century 
Lothian with its castle was added to the kingdom of 
the Scots. The city was long the favorite capital of 
the Stuarts. 



86 EDINBURGH. 

Princes-St. is a terrace, separated from the Old 
Town by a broad Talley of gardens. In the E. gar- 
dens stands the Scott Monument (built 1840-44), 
the niches of which, are filled with figures of tlie 
great novelist's heroes and heroines. Beneath the 
central canopy is a statue of Sir Walter Scott. A 
staircase leads to the top (200 ft.). Near by, stand 
bronze statues of Livingstone, Adam Black, and 
Prof. Wilson (^hs. North). The gardens are divided 
into two sections by the Hound, on which stand the 
beautiful classic buildings of the Boyal Instituiiov. 
and the National Gallery. The former contains 
the Naiional 3Iuseum of Antiquities and the Statue 
Gallery (free Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and 
Saturday, 10-4; 6d. Thursday and Friday). In the 
Museum, note John Knox's Pulpit from St. Giles's 
Church; the Solemn League aud Covenant of 1608, 
signed by Montrose; the Blue Eibbon, worn by 
Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter; the Tor- 
turijig Maiden ; and many Celtic and Eoman aiiti- 
quities. The School of Design in this building has 
many pupils. The National Gallery (open daily, 
10-4; 6d. fee on Thurs. and Fri.) is S.^of the Koyal 
Institution. Here are good paintings by Van Dyck, 
Veronese, Watteau, Teniers, Keynolds, Hogarth, 
Landseer and Wilson. The annual exhibitions of 
the Royal Scottish Academy take place here from 
February to May. Flaxman's statue of Burns is 
here. See in W. Princes-St. Gardens statue of 
Allan Eamsay, the Scottish pastoral poet. Nearly 
opposite the University Club is a statue of the 
famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the West 
churchyard is the grave of Thomas de Quincey. 
Near the Caledonian Station is Castle Terrace, 
on which stands the Synod Hall of the LT. P. Church. 
Crossing the railway from the West Garden you 
Teach the base of the Castle Rock, and mav ascend 



SCOTLAND. 87 

bj the WeUhome Toicer (a part of tlie first town wall, 
erected in lloO) to tlie uppermost walk. 

The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 300 
ft. above the valley, accessible only from the E. side. 
This was an in) pregnable stronghold before the days of 
gunpowder. To-day it is an infantry barrack for 1,200 
men, and has an armory containing 30,000 stand of 
arms. The so-called Half-Moon Battery faces to the 
N. E. The main approaches to the castle are by 
High-St. and Castle Hill. See the Stone Cross erected 
to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny. 
You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge over a 
moat. See the State Prison, where many adherents of 
ti??. Stuarts were confined. On the r. is the Argyll 
Buttery ; a little beyond, the Armory, the Prison, the 
Old Palace Yard, and the Crown Room (open daily, 
li-3j. Here are the Regalia, sometimes called the 
Honors of Scotland. They consist of a crown (Robert 
Brace's, with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre, 
sword of state (given by Pope Jnlius II. to James lY.), 
treasurer's rod of office, etc. Queen Mary's Room is a 
small apartment in which Queen Mary gave birth to 
James VI. On the wall is a black-letter inscription, 
with the Scottish arms. On the Bomb Battery stands 
Mons Meg, an enormous gun made at Mons, in Bel- 
gium, in 1176, of thick iron bars hooped together. 
Erom this battery see the whole of Edinburgh and en- 
virons. Here is Queen Margaret's Chapel, the oldest 
and highest part of the castle, built about 1050, and 
named for Malcolm Canmore's Saxon queen. The 
castle has been captured by Henry II., Edward L, 
Bruce, Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell ; and repulsed 
Prince Charles's army. 

High-St. was once one of the finest in Europe ; but 
its fpiaint old houses now compare but poorly with 



88 EDINBURGH. 

iliose in tlie New Town. Note : Cannon-ball (fired 
from the castle in 1746) sticking in tlie gable of tlie 
old mansion of tlie Duke of Gordon ; Ramsay Lane, on 
tlie 1., where lived Ramsay the poet; the General As- 
,semhly Hall of the Church of Scotland. It was along 
the W. Bow that Montrose and Argyll were conveyed 
in the executioner's cart to the Grassmarket, the place 
of public execution. On the 1., James's Court, where 
David Huihe wrote part of his History of England, 
and where Bos well entertained Johnson in 1773, and 
Paoii. Burns lived in Baxter's Close, and Cromwell 
in Byre's Close. In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of 
Scotland', on the r. the County Hall, near the open 
space where stood the old Tolbooth, called The Heart 
of Midlothian. The Tolbooth was the House of 
Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and the 
prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles s Ch., whose 
tower is terminated by a huge impej'ial crown, visible 
iVtJiri afar. The original ch. was built before 1350, 
Oiul was ihc catliedral oi' Edinburgh. Knox minis- 
tered here, and here the Solemn League and Covenant 
was signed. The Reformers cast, out 40 iuiages of 
saints, and divided the building by ])artiiions, so that 
three congregations might worship therein. Jti.mes 
VI., wlien about to ascend the English throne, here 
io;)k leave of the citizens. In the Crypt are the tombs 
of Montrose and the B'".gent Murray. S. of St. Giles 
is Parlla input Sg/tarr. See, in the privement here, a 
stone inscribed "1. K. 1572," which marks 1 he grave 
of John Knox. Also, an equestrian statue of Charles 
11. On the S , Parliaineut Honse^ a modern Italian 
structure, n(jw used as courts of justice. Parliament 
Hall, 122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. See 
statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. Near by 
are the Ad c orates' Library and the Signet Library, 



SCOTLAND. 8^ 

The first contains 300,000 vols., and a vast collectioit. 
of MSS. See lierc the Mayence first edition of tlie- 
Bible. On the N. E. side of St. Giles's Ch. see the 
CU>f Cross. Opposite is the Eoyal Bxchaiige . Where 
Iligh-St. is intersected by the N. and S. Bridges stands- 
the Tron Church, named from a public tron, or 
^veighing'-machine. When the shopkeepers weighed- 
falsely they were nailed up by the ears. Farther 
down is John Knox's House (open Wed. and Sat.,, 
10-4; 6d.). The interior is a labyrinth of small ani 
low-ceiled rooms. On the outside is the inscription;. 
" Lofe . God . alioue . al . and . i/oor . nicMbovr . as ., 
yi . self!' Here Knox lived, — 1559-72, — and here^ 
he died. From Knox's house to Holyrood, liigh-St.,. 
is called Caiiongate. On the 1., Canongate Tolbooth^ 
built in 1591. Back from the street, the Ch. of the"^^ 
Canons, built in 1G88. In the Cemetery are buried.. 
Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and other celebrated- 
Scots. On the 1., Qiieensberry House, an ancient ducaL 
palace, where the poet Gay once dwelt ; now used as a. 
house of refuge, 

Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by 
King David I., who is said to have been saved from, 
the horns of a stag, driven to bay near this spot, by a^- 
luminous cross in the sky. The Holy Rood, which 
David intended to deposit there, was a fragment of the- 
True Cross. The palace (fee, 6d. ; free on Sat.) was- 
begun by Charles IV., and burned by the Eughsh in, 
15 14, and again by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. The= 
most interesting section is Queen Mai-fs Apartments,.- 
entered by a door on the N, side of the inner courts 
The rooms on the first floor were occupied by Darnley, 
In the little boudoir Bizzio was assassinated while afc 
supper with Mary, March 9, 156G, by Darnley, Butli- 
Ten, and others. The guides show some dark stains? 



so EDINBURGH. 

son the floor, said to be Rizzio's blood. The present 
palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. The 
picture-gallery is hung with 111 hypothetical portraits 
of Scottish kings. The Chapel Royal is a beautitiil 
but ruinous fragment of the old Abbey, fouuded by 
David. Charles I. was crowned here in 1G33. In the 
vaults are buried David II., James II., James V. and 
his Queen, and Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holyrood is 
the (Queen's Park. Arthur's Seat, 822 ft. high, is 
behind Holyrood. A good road, the Queen s Drke, 
runs round it. The ascent may be made from Holy- 
rood by crossing the Park, or by following the drive 
to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from that point. On 
the hill ar<* the ruins of St. Anthonfs Chapel. See, 
jiear the park-keeper's lodge at St. Leonard's Hil), the 
cottage of " Jeannie Deans." 

The historic Coiogate, built in 1500, is now one of 
the dirtiest lanes in the Old Town. It ends in the 
Grassmarket, near the centre of M-hich is the Corn 
Exchange. At the head of the Cowgate stands the 
house in which Lord Brougham was born ; and in the 
oli.-yard of Greyiriars are the tombs of tlie historian 
Robertson, Allan Ramsay, and other famous men. 
Heriofs Hospital, a magnificent turreted quadrangle 
(built by Inigo Jones, 1028-50), is worth a visit. The 
University (session 'Nov.-April), at the S. end of S. 
Bridge, was founded in 1582 by James VL It has 
one of the best medical schools in Europe. There 
iire about 2,000 students. Library, 150,000 vols. In 
Drummond-St., opposite the College, stood Darnley 's 
house, where he was blown up in 1567. Near the 
jiead of College Wynd stood the house in which Walter 
Scolt was born. It was pulled down in 1871. Be- 
hind the University is the Edinburgh Museum qfScienct 
■^nd Art. At the N. end of George IV. Brid.iiw is tiie 



SCOTLAND. 91: 

Free Public Lihrary erected mainly Ihrougli the lib- 
erality of Mr. Andrew Carnegie. 

Crossing the Mound into the New Town, one finds 
the streets as wide and handsome as in the Old they 
are narrow and ugly. Go up Calton Hill, at the E. 
end of Princes-St., and visit Nelson's MonvmentifeG, 
3d.); good view from the top. On this liill is the 
National Monument to tlie Scottisli soldiers who fell 
in the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns, — an un- 
finished building, copied after the Parthenori at Ath- 
ens ; also, the Observatory; and the Dugald- Stewart 
Monument, copied from the Clioragic Monument of 
Lysicrates at Athens. Just beyond is Play fair's monu- 
ment. At the base of the hillr^ the lloycii High Scliool, 
an adaptation of tlie Temple of Theseus at A thens. To ■ 
tiic S. is Barns s Monument, erected in l-'^SO. Kt the 
corner of the N. Bridge, the Posf-Ojfice. In the J^ef/is- 
try Office, on the r. at the end of Princes-St., are auto- 
graph letters of Queen Mary, etc. See Ware rley Bridge. 

Other Objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank; the 
iiewWaveriey B. Sta.; the bronze statues of Pitt and 
George IV., by Chantrey ; St A)idrew's Cb,; statue 
toChahuers, the Scottish* divine; the Scottish National 
Memorial, erected in 1878, bas-reliefs illustrative of 
the Prince Coiisori's career ; the Edinburgh Philo- 
sophical Institiiti'iit in Queen-St. ; the stRtii]y Episcopal 
Cathednil of St. Mary, built by Sir Gilbert Scott ; the- 
Dean B ridge, ^\yAnmn-y the Water of Leith.lOG ft. high; 
the Dean Cemetery, where Lords Jeffrey, Cockburn, 
Rutherford and Mur?'ay, and Prof. Wilson are buried; 
the Fettes College ; v e S, Cemetery, at the Grange, 
where Hugh Miller Dr. Chalmers, and Di-. Guthrie 
are buried"; tlie Royed Bank Garden; the Warriston 
Cemetery, wliere Alexander Smith the poet is buried, 

Leith (60,000), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 M. 
N., reached i»Y horse-cars and steam-cars ; train?' 
every 1-2 hr. There are 2 piers stretching 3,000 ft.- 



92 LEITH.-ROSLIN CHAPEL. 

into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take feriy 
across to the other, and come back on it. Mary 
i^ueen of Scots had a brilliant reception on landing 
here from Calais in 1561. Huge shipbuilding yards, 
g'lass-works, and flour-mills here. Large trade in 
corn and timber with Baltic ports. The Albert Dock 
covers 14 acres* Leith Fort was built by Cromwell. 
W. of Leith is Newhaven {Peacock Inn, cele- 
brated for' fish dinners, 2s. 6d.). Fishwives re- 
markable here for their costumes, and noted for 
their virtue. 

Excursions from Edinburgh. — To Granton Pier, 
2M., stopping to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens 
(admission free). Good view of Edinburgh. Magni- 
ficent pier, built by the Duke of Buccleuch. At 
Granton the English troops that invaded Scotland in 
1544 were landed. From the pier, steam ferry to 
Burntisland in Fife. — To Trinity, goo^ bathing. — 
To Hawthornden and Roslin Chapel. Train to 
Hawthornden stat. ; fares, Is., lOd., 8d. This charm- 
ing mansion, "grafted on an old fortified Peel 
tower," w^as built by the poet Drummond, born in 
1585 ; and here Ben Johnson came to visit him, walk- 
ing all the way from London. Under the mansion 
are caves, inhabited by natives before huts were 
known. Cross the Esk and go along the romantic 
glen to Roslin (1^- M.), getting a fine view of the castle 
and chapel as you leave the ravine. Battle f ojight in 
1302 on the Iloor near by. Roslin Chapel is the choir 
of an unfinished ch., founded in 1446. Pergusson 
thinks "the chapel owes its beauty entirely to the 
profusion of its decorations." The castle, on a mound 
below, is a mere ruin. The Valley of the Esk is 
lovely. If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can 
pass by Morningside, and see the stone on which James 
I. fixed his standard before he set out for Flodden 
Field. — Dalkeith Castle, Neivlatile Abbey, Dalhousie 



SCOTLAND. 93 

<Jastle, Borthwick Castle, Crichton Castle, all on or near 
the Esk, are well worth visiting. 

All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbotsford, 
and Dryburgh. Take express train (Pullman car 
attached) to Melrose stat. (37 M. ; 1 hr. ; fares, 7s. 
5d., 5s. 7d., 3s. Id.). Hotels at Melrose: George; 
Abbey ; King's Arms. Melrose Abbey was founded 
hy David I. in 1126, and completed in 1146. The 
inonks who dwelt there were among the first Cister- 
cians in Scotland. The Abbey was destroyed by Ed- 
ward II. in 1322, but rebuilt later under the patronage 
of King Robert Bruce. The architecture is Second 
Pointed, mingled with Elamboyant. The present struc- 
ture dates from about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuch 
now owns the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258 
ft. ; breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir, the Tran- 
-Hepts, the Nave, entered by a wooden gate at the W. 
end, and the S. Aisle, are in best preservation. The 
Abbey forms a Latin cross, with a square tower, 84 
ft. high, in the centre. Beside the high altar, under 
the noted E. Windoiv, lies Alexander II. ; and here the 
heart of Robert Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the 
M-izard, Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary. 
Note the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the 
doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the S. door 
(outside) is a beautiful sculptured canopy, and above it 
a noble window. Above the E. window are figures, 
supposed to be David I. and his queen. Under the 
fifth window is Sir David Brewster's tomb. Moonlight 
effects quite equal to Sir Walter's enthusiastic descrip- 
tion. Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to 
Abbotsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A 
one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (3 M.) costs 
6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6d. The walk is a pleasant 
one. Persons in haste can leave Edinburgh at 10.30 



9-i ABFOTSFORD. — DP.YBURGH ABBEY. 

A.M. ; reach Melrose in 1 lir. ; drive over to Abbots- 
ford, see it, and return, in 2 lirs. ; give ^ lir. to Mel- 
rose Abbey ; lunch at one of tlie hotels near by ; then 
take carriage to Dryburgh Abbey, see it, and return to 
Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, in 2| hrs. ; after 
which they can take an evcDing train S. Abbotsford 
(admission, Is.) was long the home of the '• Great 
Ench^anter of the North." The author's study is the 
most interesting room. There the old writing-table^ 
the plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, seem, 
to indicate that Sir Walter has but just left them. 
The Library (20,000 vols.) contains a bust of Scott,, 
by Chantrey, and many miniatures. The roof is of 
carved oak, designed from models taken from lloslia 
Chapel. The Drawing-room, where Sir Walter died, 
and the little octagonal dressing-room contain many 
precious relics. The Armory lias a fine collection of 
Scotch weapons. Not far away is the Chiefswooit 
Cottage, where the Lockharts dwelt. "Thomas the 
Rhymer" once lived in the neighborhood. 

\\\ Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by rait 
from Melrose to Newtown St. Bosweli's, and then \\ 
M. across country) Scott was buried (in 1832). His 
tomb is in the beautiful St. Marys Aisle, and on either 
side are the tombs of his v-dfe and eldest son. Lock- 
hart also lies there. The Abbey (admission, 4d.) M'as 
founded in 1150 by Hugh de Moreville, and destroyed, 
like Melrose, by Edward I. The Chapter-House is still 
entire. On a hill near by is an effigy of Wallace, in 
red sandstone. 

You can now proceed S. Stop at Durham and 
York. Edinburgh to London (9 hrs.), 57s. 6d., 44s. 9d., 
32s. 8d. ; Melrose to Durham, 19s. 4d., 14s. lOd., 8s. 
Hid.; Melrose to York, 27s. 2d., 20s. 8d., 14s. 2|d. ; 
Edinburgh to York, 31s., 24s. Pullman sleepmg-car, 8s. 



ENGLAND. 9^ 

ENGLAND. 

Newcastle, Durham, and York. 

JJEWOASTLE-UPOI3"-TYHE {Station Hotel; 
•^^ County) is a place of great industrial interest.. 
It was Pons Aelii, the second stat. on the Roman wall. 
Up to the Conquest it was called Monkchester. New- 
castle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9^ M. from its mouth. 
The Castle-keep remains, with splendid great hall, ora- 
tory, king's chamber, and museum of Roman antiqui- 
ties. See>S'^. Nichotas^s Cathedral {14:th. cent.), with 
fine spire and rare old monuments ; St. Aridreiv's, very 
ancient ; the Library ; the Royal Arcade; and Stephen- 
son's High Level Bridge. ^ IsivicJc, 2 M. out, is the 
seat of Sir Wm. Armstrong's immense ordnance works., 
Tynemoutli has a beautiful ruined Priory. Newcastle 
is enterprising, but grimy ; ' ' the dimmest and smoki- 
est place I ever saw, " says Hawthorne. Much iron 
ship-building on the river. Population with suburbs, 
176,000. Made in 1883 an Episcopal See. 

Durham {County Hotel; Three Tuns), 15 M. from- 
Newcastle, stands on a hill almost surrounded by the- 
river Wear, and is noteworthy for its Cathedral and 
Castle. The latter was built by William the Conqueror, 
and is the. seat of an University. The Cathedral 
crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. It 
was founded in 1093, replacing an older ch. 

"We paused upon the bridge,and admired and wondered, 
at the beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast ancient 
towers rising out of the green shade, and looking as if they 
were based upon it. As I saw it then, it was grand, vener- 
able, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw so lovely and. 



^6 DURHAM. 

magnificent a scene, nor, being content with, this, do I wish 
to see a better." — Hawthorne. 

King's English Cathedrals speaks of the "view of 
tbe castle w^alls, and the towers of tlie enormous eh. 
rising close beside it, and sheer with the face of the 
cliif;" and, indeed, there are few bits of EngUsh scen- 
ery lovelier than those in old Durham on the Wear 
("This river Wear, with its sylvan wildness, and yet so 
sf\^eet and placable, is the best of all little rivers," says 
Hawthorne) ; or few chs. more majestic in the midst of 
a charming landscape. It contains the remains of the 
Venerable Bede (see some of his MSS. in the Cathedral 
library); those of St. Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827; 
and of Ralph, Lord Nev'lle, who commanded at Ne- 
ville's Cross. See The Q ililee, a splendid chapel; the 
B. Transept, or Chapel of the Nine Altars ; the magnifi- 
cent Norman Nave, with is unrivalled vista ; the Chap- 
ter-Rouse, built 1133-4'^'; tlie Te-Demi JFindow ; the 
Altar Screen, dating frmx 1380; the Cloisters; the 
Abbey Gateway; ek. Choral services twice daily. 
Good' views of th^. 0/ihedral from the Eramwellgate 
Bridge and the rlv. ^,Cat. King thinks that the cathe- 
drals at Lincob:k nni Ely alone can be compared with 
this for majesty and beauty. Erom St. Giles's Ch.- 
yard, from the Prior s Fath, and from Nine Trees, are 
.excellent views. The Castle (fee, Is.) was long the 
a-esidence of the Bishcps of the Palatinate. _ See tlie 
Keep, now occupied by students; the beautiful Nor- 
man Gallery ; the Black Staircase; the Great Hall, with 
its many pictures ; the tapestry in Bishop TunstaWs 
Gallery; and the very curious old Chapel. Pleasant 
wallcs abound. Excursions to Fi7ichale Priory (3| 
M.), dating from 1496, and in a lovely vale beyond the 
Kepyer Woods ; to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed 
io the Romans, and the Moated Gratige ; to Nsmlles 



ENGLAND. 97 

Cross, commemorating the capture of David II. by 
Neville in 1346; to Chesfer-le-Street , 6 M., with a 
noble ch. built 1286, near which is Lumley Castle 
(Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall and 
Ball-Room (time of Edward I.), and Lamhton Castle 
(Earl of Durham). From Durham you may proceed 
directly to York (63 M. ; fares, 8s. lOd., 7s. 5d., 5s. 
6d.). But we recommend you to go (fares, 7s. 2d., 
6s., 43. 5d.) to 

Ripon {Unicom Hotel; Croioji), a pretty city on 
the river Ure. It has been an ecclesiastical site for 12 
centuries. The Cathedral was begun iu 11^4, roughly 
used by the Scots in Wm Border wars, fell into ruin, 
and was rebuilt in the 17th century. It was restored 
by Sir G. Scott in 1862-73. The most striking point 
of view is the W. Front. The nave has a lot'ty clere- 
story, and an oak roof with carved bosses, and some 
interesting old stained glass. The library is in -„he old 
Lgdy Chapel, above the chapter-house and vestry. The 
Choir Screen is a splendid pile of tabernacle-work. In 
the N. Choir Rail was formerly placed the Shrine of 
St, Wilfrid. Ripon retains many odd memorials of 
the past. In High-Sfc. is St. Anne's Hospital, founded 
in Edward IV. 's reign. In Stamergate, chapel of 
Roman date. See the Hospital of St. Mary Mar/dale?^ 
for Lepers, founded 1140. Fountains Abbey, 3 M. 
W., within the grounds of Studlcy Royal (Marquess of 
Ripon), was established in 1132, The ruins cover 
more than 2 acres; and when the abbey. was complete 
it occupied 12 acres. Note almost perfect ch. on 1. 
From the N. transept rises a tower. There is also a 
great cloister, and a beautiful vaulted gallery, 300 ft. 
long. The Chapter-House lias singular aisles, with 
double row of columns. Here are many tombs of 
the abbots. See, also, the Refectory, the Vaulted 



98 HARROGATE.-YORK. 

Kitchen, the Frater House. Returning to Ripon^ 
take train to York (23 M.). On the way is Harro- 
gate {Prospect Hotel; Croivn; Prince of Wales), one 
of the most charming of English watering-places. 

York (Station Hotel, large and convenient ; Black 
Swan; Harker's York), a city of 75,000 inh., 191 
M. from London (fares 27s. 6d., 21s. 3d., 15s. 8d.). 
York is said to have been founded 983 years b. c. 
In 150 A. D. it was a great Roman station, bearing 
the name Eboracum, with an imperial palace. Here 
the Emperor Severus died. Here also Constantino 
the Great was perhaps born, and his father Con- 
stantius, died, in 307. In the Saxon era Yori was. 
noted for the baptism of Edwin of Northumbria by 
Paulinus ; and afterwards became the favorite capital 
of the Danes, whose chief was defeated by Harold in 
1066. 

The visitor should first see the City Walls, 2| M. 
around, interrupted here and there by the rivers. 
These walls were built chiefly in Edward III.'s time, 
but have been often restored since. During the siege 
by the Parhamentary forces they suffered very much. 
On the N. and S. W. they follow the old line of the 
Roman wall. See MicUegate Bar, a noble archway of 
ISTorman date, ilanked by terraces with loopholes and 
battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. Here 
the skulls of rebels to the Crown were formerly affixed, 
dose by, St. Mary's Nunnery. At Skeldergafe, cross 
the Ouse by bridge. Beyond the ferry, the Bail Hill, 
on which William I. built his castle ; Walmgate and 
Monkgate ; an interesting Norman Bar, with Decorated 
tipper story ; and at the Thirsk Road one may descend 
close to the Cathedral, or 

York Minster, which Hawthorne called " the most 
wonderful work that ever came from the hands of 




: J are indicated by the dotted lines). 



ENGLAND. 99 

men." A wooden edifice was built here by Paulinus, 
and replaced by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in 
627). The first Norman bishop erected a new church, 
which was added to within the next four centuries. 
In 1360-1400 the old Norman choir was entirely 
replaced by the present one. The Minster was re- 
celwsecrated, July 3, 1472. The total length is 524i 
ft. ; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; length of transepts, 
322 ft. ; height of central tower, 213 ft. The W, 
Front consists of a central fayade, flanked by two 
towers (201 ft.). The front, with its 3 N. towers, is 
Decorated. The buttresses of the towers are very 
massive. Between them and the portal are niches 
filled with figures of saints. The JSF. Transept is 
noticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters Window, 
below which is an Early English arcade. The octa- 
gonal chapter-house, with superb 14th-century win- 
dows ("the richest I ever saw or imagined; with all 
their brilliancy they were soft as rose-leaves," said 
Hawthorne), is the finest in England. Imposing view 
of the choir and central tower. Magnificent E. win- 
dow, and row of sculptured figures underneath the 
sill. The S. Transept is fine Early English; beauti- 
ful rose window here. The nave aisles are of unusual 
width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end of 
the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Window, 
restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm of arch£eo- 
logists, who compare it for beauty and variefy with 
the B. window at Carlisle. The quantity and ex- 
quisite beauty of the stained glass will remind the old 
traveller of some of the Spanish churches. This glass 
miraculously escaped damage when Fairfax took the 
town in 1644. The Puritans broke up most of the 
monuments and brasses. Among wall monuments, 
note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of Stafllord 
(son of him who was beheaded). Archbishop Scrope 
(mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV.), and Arch- 



100 YORK MINSTER. 

bishop Markham. Visitors should see the nave in the 
evening, when the body of the churcli is beautifully 
lighted. The Central Tower is remarkable for its mas. 
sive piers. T\\q, Lantern Tower, finished in the 15th ceu' 
tuvy, has a vaulted roof, ISO ft. from the ground. The 
JSl. Transept has an exquisite series of lancet windows, 
{tilled with red glass. The chapter-house dates from 
the 14th century. " I never saw a piece of human 
architecture so beautiful," said Hawthorne. Doorway 
of trefoiled arches with a shaft, having a niche, in 
which is a figure of the Yirgin and the Child. Notice 
the old oak door, covered with scrolled iron- work. The 
rich stone Roodscreen, separating the choir from the 
nave, is in 15 compartments, each containing a statue 
of a king of England down to Henry VI. The choir is 
of vast height and width, aud Hawthorne said that its 
pillars and arches are so perfect that "their beauty 
throws a gleam around them." Its height is 102 ft. ; 
width, 99 ft. The stained glass in the clerestory is 
partly of the 14th century, partly later ; as in the choir 
and in the presbytery. The great E. Windoio is the 
largest in England that retains its original glazing. 
It was erected in 1405-8, and forms a complete epitome 
of the Bible. The Crypt may be visited from either the 
N. or tlie S. aisle. See first the Presbytery and the 
Lady Chapel. The Vestry, Record Room, Treasury, 
and Library (containing many MSS.), may be seen if 
desired. The Horn of Ulphus, laid on tlie altar by one 
of the Lords of Yorkshire as a sign that he gave certain 
lands to the Church, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says 
of this cathedral : " It seems to have come down from 
above, bringing an awful majesty and sweetness with 
it ; and it is so light and aspiring, with all its vast; 
columns and pointed arches, that one would hardly 
wonder if it should ascend back to heaven again b^ 
its mere spirituality.'* 



ENGLAND. ICi 

Other Objects of Interest. — Witliiii tlie grounds of 
the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the Ouse (lee^ 
Is.) is &t. MaTy''s Abbey. After the dissolution, part 
was changed into a royal palace. See the ruins of St. 
Leonard's Hospital, founded by Atiielstan, and rebuilt 
by Stephen ; and, beyond the Hos])ital, tJie Multangular 
Tower, Iloman belovv^ and medigsval above. Here are 
many stone coffins from the Fboman cemetery. Near 
this is St. Olave's Ch., in the graveyard of which Etty 
the painter lies buried. Near the river is the Museum 
of Antiquities, with very irtteresting collections. The 
Museum of the Philosophical Societj/ contains a valuable 
geological exhibit. — The Castle, now a prison, is a 
massive edifice in which occurred many events in the 
early history of York. It was here that the massacre of 
the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, indignant 
at the favors shown to the Hebrews by Henry II., took 
place in the reign of Richard I. Over the gateway is 
a small Early English chapel. — All Saints' Ch., in North- 
St., is of great age, and contains Iloman masonry and 
rich stained glass. See Holr/ Trinity Ch., Kings Court, 
St. Crux Pavement, where the Earl of Northumberland, 
beheaded in 1572, is buried. St. Helen Stonegate, is 
dedicated to the mother of Coustantine. See also 
St. Lawrence, outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the 
Younger, Bishop Hill; and St. MichaeVs, Spurrier 
Gate. At the latter the ringing of the curfew bell is 
still kept up. The principal public buildings are : The 
Mansion House ; the Guildhall, with nave and aisles 
separated by oak pillars, and rich stained windows ; 
Merchants' Hall, in Eossgate ; and St. William's Col- 
lege, founded in 1460 Hawthorne admired York's 
"old chs., gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time." 

Excursions from York. — To 'Scarborough {Crown 



102 WHITBY.-HULL.-LEEDS. 

Hotel; Grand; Alexandra; Prince of Wales; Royal; 
Pavilion)', time, 1^2 hours; fare, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 
3s. 5^d. This is a fashionable seashore resort. On a 
promontory are ruins of an ancient Norman castle. 
The Spa, the Promenade (6d.), the Aquarium, and 
Oliver's Moimt (superb view), are reached by the Cliff 
Bridge. View from the Castle Bock very fine. Near 
the castle is the venerable Cli. of St. Mary. (Fares 
from London, 35s., 26s. lid., 19s. 6d,)— To Whitby 
{Royal Hotel; Groivn; Angel), 56|-M. ; fares, 7s. 6d., 
6s. 3d., 4s. 8d. Whitby is a summer resort, with 
superb sea-views. Museum and library on the W. 
pier. Many shops for the sale of jet. Charming 
drives to Rohiti Hood's Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and 
along the Esk dales. Scott's Marmion has made 
this region classic. Capt. Cook's circumnavigating 
ships were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable 
ruins of Whitby Abbey, where Hilda ruled, 658-80, 
and Csedmon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon verse. 
— To Beverley (Beverley Arms J, dating from the 
8th century. Beverley Minster merits close study, 
with its superb Percy Shrine, rich tabernacle-work. 
Lady Chapel, high towered fronts. *S'^. Mary's Oh. 
is splendid cruciform building, with many sculptures. 
8 M. distant (fares from York, 5s. 7d., 4s. 8d., 3s. 5id.) 
is Hull (Royal Hotel; Victoria; Imperial), a town of 
-354,000 inhab., ranking as a seaport next to London 
and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Ch.; the Town 
Hall; the Wilber force Column (72 ft.); St. Mary's 
Ch.; the Trinity House, established 1369 ; the ancient 
High-St.; the Merchants' Exchange; and the Royal 
Institution. — To Leeds {Queen's Hotel; Metropole; 
Great Northern Station), chief town in Yorkshire, 
with 420,000 inh. It is 32 M. from York (fares, 3s. 6d., 
^s. lid., 2s. l|d.) Coal and iron abound on all sides. 



ENGLAND. 103 

Heelus calls Leeds "first in the world in the woollen 
business." The public buildings are magnificent. The 
Town Hall has a tower 225 ft. high, and 4 rich Cor- 
inthian fagades. The Royal Exchange, 3Iixed-Gloth 
Hall, WUte-Clotli Hall (built in 1775), and the New 
Infirmary are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is 
KirJistall Alley, beautiful ruins of ch., cloisters, and 
chapter-house; Temple iVe^/'sa??^, rich in paintings; and 
Weetivood, noted for idyllic scenery. From Leeds it 
is 8 M. (time, 4 hr.; fares, Is. 2d., Is., 9d.) to Brad- 
ford {3Iidland; Alexandra), world-famous for its 
woollens and worsted yarns. The town (280,000 inh.) 
is prettily situated in a narrow vale. The Town Hall, 
of mediaeval design, was erected in 1873, and has a 
campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be superior to 
those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the model 
town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M. distant. The 
factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories high. Rly. 
hence (7-8 M.) to Keighley Junction, whence a branch 
line conducts (4 M.) to Haworth {Black Bull Bin). 
The village has been much altered since the time of the 
Brontes. The parsonage, where lived from 1820 to 
1860 the father of the marvellous girls who wrote 
Shirley, Jane Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All 
the Bronte family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth. 
There is a tablet to their memory in the ch. ; Char- 
lotte's signature may be seen on the register. Many 
Americans make pilgrimages to this rude moorland 
country, hallowed by the manifestations of genius. 

ilanchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc. 

We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, and 
go thence to Manchester. 200 trains pass daily be- 
tween these two towns (42|- M. ; fares, 7s., 5s.' 3d., 



104 MANCHESTER. 

3s. 9d.). On the way you traverse the Morley tunnei 
(2 M. long); and iSuddersfield {Queen's Hotel; 
George'), a handsome manufacturing town of 81,000 
inhab. Near by is Kirklees Hall, on the site of the 
nunnery where, if we may believe the old ballads, Robin 
Hood was bled to death by a nun, and where the cele- 
brated outlaw's grave is sliown. Btanedge Tunnel (3 M. 
long) comes next. Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100 
cotton-mills. Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely 
beautiful. 

Manchester (()?^,«g?i'5 Hotel; Grand Hotel; Victoria; 
Albion; Grosvenor; Boyal ; Waterloo) and Salford 
are connected by numerous bridges. The population 
numbers about 800,000; and the two towns cover 9 
square M. Reclus says : " Manchester was the Mancu- 
nium of the Romans, and in the 14th century was already 
known for its manufactures of stuffs, established by 
^Flemish artisans after the reUgious wars. In our time 
it is the 'cotton metropolis.' " The Ship Canal, 35^ 
M. long, 26ft. deep, made at a cost of £15,000,000, 
has converted the town into a seaport and ensured 
the continuance of its prosperity. 

The Gothic Cctthedral m^ 1) was restored in 1845-68. 
The celebrated New Free Trade Hall stands in Peter-St., 
near the scene of the " Peterloo Massacre." The large, 
hall, in which Cobden and Bright have made many 
famous speeches, can hold 7,000 persons. The Neio 
Town Hall, the Royal Exchange, the Corn Exchange^ 
are imposing modern structures. In front of the Royal 
Infirmary, in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke 
of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton (the 
chemist). Chetham College has a fine library. Owen's 
College, in Oxford-St., is an elegant structure. In the 
Grammar School De Quincey received liis early edu- 
cation See the Assize Courts, good example of Gothic 
architecture ; the vast County Jail; the Museum oj 
Natural History ; the Albert Memorial. 



ENGLAND. 105 

Mancliester is reached from London by tlie Midlanct 
Kly. (189 M.; 5 lirs. ; fares, Us. 6d., 20s., and 15s. 
5M.), which traverses a delicious coimtry. It is 41 
M. (fares, 7s. 6d., 4s. 7d., 3s. 5d.) hence to Sheffield 
{Midland Hotel; Victoria; Angel; King's Head), the 
headquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of Enj?land' 
(with suburbs, 284,500 inhab.). Sheffield is shrouded 
In smoke, so that one scarcely gets a glimpse of its 
really fine situation on a chain of hills. St. Peter's 
Ch., with the Shrewsbury Chapel/ the Manor House, 
restored by the Duke of Norfolk; the Shrewsbury 
Hospital; the statute of Elliott, the Corn-Law Ehymer; 
and the Cutlers' Hall, are the principal sights. From- 
Sheffleld it is 18 M. (fares, 2s. 9d., 2s. 2d., Is. 6d.) tor 
Doncaster (Angel; Reindeer; prices high race wk.), 
•a clean and well-built town, of Roman origin, on th© 
Don ; noted tor its fine C/i. of SL George, and tor the 
famous St. Leger race, estabhshed in 1778. Near by 
is the grand old Conishorough Castle, described m 
Ivanhoe. It is 39 M. (fares, 5s. lid., 4s. 3d., 3s. lid.> 
hence to the ancient cathedral-town of 

Lincoln {Great Northern Railway Hotel ; Saru" 
cen*s Head ; Spread Eagle), which was at the time of 
the Norman Conquest one of the chief British cities. 
Under the Roman domination it had been one of the 
best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King Stephen- 
was taken prisoner, after a battle at Lincoln by Robert, 
Earl of Gloucester. There the Dauphin's party was 
overthrown by the Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s 
minority. The city was stormed by the ParHamentary 
army in 1644. The Cathedral stands on the summit 
of a hill, whence it can be seen for many miles around. 
It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Remigius of Ee- 
yamp ; destroyed by an earthquake, about 1200 ; anct 
rebuilt by Bishop Hugh of Avalon, 1220-60, and dedi- 



106 LINCOLN. — BOSTON. 

~43ated to the Virgin. The towers on the splendid W. 
front command a view down the vale of tlie Witham, 
as far as Boston. The length is 482 ft. ; width of W. 
front, 174 ft. ; height of central tower, 260 ft. Note 
the Norman font of E-emigius; the Galilee Porch; the 
ckoir, with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting ; 
the Easter Sepulchre ; the delicately carved screens ; 
the lady chapel. The big bell weighs 5| tons. See 
the Cloisters, on the N. side, and their Roman pave- 
ment. In the Library are many Roman antiquities. 
Monuments to Catherine, wife of John of Gaunt, and 
Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, and of many old 
bishops and deans. The greater part of the ch. is 
Early English ; but part of the W. front is Norman. 
The 13th century produced nothing finer than the rose- 
wiudow in the N. transept. In the S. transept there 
■ is also a fine rose-window. See the sculptured angels 
in the Presbytery, or Angel Choir. Near by is the 
BisJwp's Palace, founded by Bp. Hugh, which had 
-fallen into ruins but is now rebuilt ; tlie Castle, erected 
b}^ William the Conqueror (now the county courts) ; 
the J^/eicport, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments 
af tlie Roman wail ; Jo7m of Gaunfs Palace ; the 
Oidldhall J and the fine old Stonebow gate. 

Boston {Peaeock Hotel) is 1-1| hrs. S. E. of Lin- 
'coin, and has 15,000 inhab., many antiquities, and 
some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. It was 
, called Botolplis Toivn from the saint who founded a 
monastery here, in 654. St. Botolplis Ch., built 1309, 
*,s the largest British parish ch. without aisles, and is 
291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, Avith a splendid tower, 
:^00 ft. high, visible from afar over the sea and the fens. 
-32 M. by rly. from Boston is Peterborough. 

Go next trom Lincoln to Nottingham. Just outside 
^f Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridc/e All Saints. At 




General Map of London showing Main Strecii 




; blic Build "''i'-s, and Cliiet Railway ytaiiouJ:;. 



ENGLAND. lOr 

Wewark {Clinton Arms; The Saracen's Head) is St, 
Mary Magdalene, a splendid old ch., witli fine brasses,- 
stained windows, and a tall tower, sustaining statue* 
of the Apostles ; also a venerable ruined Castle, built 
in the reign of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein 
died King John. Belvoir Castle, the palace of th& 
Duke of Rutland, is near by. Newark was once fa- 
mous for its inns, and the Saracen's Head existed in- 
the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes 
Jeannie Deans rest there on her w^ay from Midlothian 
to London. Just before reaching Nottingham, the^ 
train traverses the grounds of Cohcick Hall, wher& 
Byron's "Mary Chaworth" lived. 

Nottingham iClarendon Hotel; Flying Horse; 
hion; Portland ; Oeorge, in the town) stands on a 
rocky eminence N. of the river Trent. It is the chief 
place for the making of lace and hosiery in England 
(230,000 inhab.). The old town is a labyrinth of nar- 
row and crooked streets. The Market-Place is an open 
area of b\ acres, with the Exchange at its E. end. See 
the iV^. and S. Parades ; Mortimer's Hole, a strange ex- 
cavation from the castle to the river ; Standard Hill, 
■where King Charles I. unfurled for the first time the- 
royal flag in 1642; the Rock Holes ^ the Park; and 
Swinton Hermitage. St. Mary's Ch. is a grand old 
cruciform building. This was a Danish town, and' 
William I. erected a castle here, which w^as often be- 
sieged. The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red 
sandstone, was destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has 
been restored, and is occupied by the Midland Counties 
Art Museum. Splendid view over the Vale of Trent, to 
belvoir Castle. The couutry round about is filled with 
memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, which he 
inherited when it was almost in ruins, is 11 M. H, W. 
Go by rail to Linby stat., 9| M., and walk (1| M*..) to ■ 



108 DERBY. 

the house, wlilcli is not usually shown. An Augus- 
iinian abbey was founded here by Henry IT. in 11.70, 
and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The grounds and 
forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully 
restored. The ruined ch., " a glorious remnant of the 
Gothic pile," and the cloister, with a fountain in its 
■centre, are very fine; the poet's mean bedroom is kept 
as he left it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are 
siiown. On the lawn is the monument to Boatswain, 
Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so 
often mentioned in the poems. 

Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest, 
with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. Robin 
HoocVs Hid and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Ab- 
bey. 3 M. oif is Amiesley Old Hall, containing the 
" antique oratory " mentioned in Byron's " The Dream." 
Hucknall Ch., where Lord Byron, his mother, and his 
only daughter are buried, is 1 M. from Linby. Re- 
turning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and 
take early train (15f M. : Is. 9d., Is. 6d.) to 

Derby {Midland Hotel, close to stat ; Royal, in 
the town); and thence to Rowsley (fares, 2s. lid.. 
Is. 9^d). Derby was the Roman stat. Derventio, and 
here Richardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby 
spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments 
in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints' CL Derby is 
the entrance to that delightful region known as The 
Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to 
make* detours can reach Derby or Rowsley, from Liver- 
pool and Mancliester, by the Midland Line. The Peak 
is a picturesque district, containing "that beautiful 
scenery of the millstone grit and mt. limestone for 
which the county is so pre-eminent. This scenic in- 
terest, however, does not arise so much from the ele- 
vation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and 



ENGLAND. 109 

the bold and varied arrangeiment of the dales and clonghsj 
which offer exquisite landscape pictures." Keacli 
Kowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — ex- 
cept umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. cloak-room) 
make a bargain with, a driver, and go at once to Had- 
don Hall, 1| M. (1 person, 2s. 6d. ; 2-3 persons, Is. 
each. Bargain for the same driver to take you both 
to Haddon and Chatsworth. If he waits, you must 
make special terms). Haddon Hall, on a hill E. of 
the Wye, which is crossed by a picturesque bridge, is 
an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There lived 
Sir George Vernon (1545), whose profuse hospitality 
procured him the title of " King of the Peak ; " thence 
fair Dorothy Yernon eloped to marry her lover, Sir 
John Manners ; and there, in the State Bedchamljer, 
are the famous tapestries illustrating ^sop's Fables, 
woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Visitors are shown 
the Chaplain*s Moom, the Chapel, the Banqueting -Hall, 
the Bining-Room, with the inscription, " Drede God 
and honor the Kyng," over the fireplace ; the Dratcing- . 
Room, the State and Earl's Bedchambers, and BeverWs 
Toiver. Small fee to servant. 

Chatsworth (3 M. from Rowsley ; 4 M. from Bake- 
well stat.) is the finest mansion in England. It is 
a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is 
called the "Palace of the Peak." The old Hall was 
used as a fortress in the Civil War, both by forces of 
Xing and Parliament. The present S. front dates from 
1687 ; the E. side, great hall, and staircase, from 1690 ; 
the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservatory, Great 
Hall (67 X 20 ft.). Chapel, Grand Braiving-Room, 
Libraries, Bining-Room (58 X 30 ft.), Sculpture Gal- 
lery (103 X 30 ft.), Orangerg, Sketch Caller g (original 
drawings by Angelo, Raphael, Diirer, Titian, itc). 
State Apartments, QaUeryofPahitings (Titian, Salvator 



110 MATLOCK BATH. -BAKE WELL. 

Kosa, Tintoretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). State Draw- 
ing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of 
Mary Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner 
there. The Arhoretum, Conservatory, and Gardens- 
(6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Ga^rden 
comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses ; 
next a copper willow-tree ; then the vast Conservatory 
(276 X 128 ft.). See the Emperor Fountain, and gO' 
out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Tower 
and Queen liar >/s Bower desevYenotiGe. Chats worth 
is open daily (11-5 (Sat. 11-1). Queer old village of 
Edensor (Ghatsivorth Hotel, good) outside Park 
gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord Frederick 
Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 1882. 

Returning to Eowsley, lunch at the Peacock Inn^ 
an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or 
telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock 
Bath {New Bath Hotel) is in the romantic Matlock 
Dale, on the Derwent. Said' Hawthorne: "I have 
never seen anywhere else such exquisite scenery." 
Rocky and foliage-clad crags rise 3U0 ft. above the 
river, and there are many fine grottos in them. 
Jlassofi hill, 1,000 ft. high, commands a grand view 
down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock 
to Buxton (*S'if. Anne's Hotel; Palace; Old Hall), 1 
hr. from Manchester. Fine springs here, in the Wye 
v.alley, efficient in curing rheumatism and gout. 12 
acres in public gardens.-^Bakewell {Rutland Arms 
Inn) has a fine ch., with Vernon and Manners 
monuments. The rural beauty of this section is not 
surpassed in England. Hardwich Hall and Bolsover 
Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, 
filled with art-treasures. The former may be reached 
from Clay-Cross stat., between Derby and Sheffield; 
the latter from Langivith. Burton - on - Trent 
is the site of vast ale breweries. We now suggest 
that you go from the Derbyshire district to 



ENGLAND. Ill 

Birmingham (Queen's Hotel, at the stat.; Great 
Western; Flougli S Marrow). Fares from Manchester 
to Birmingham, 12s. 6d., 9s. 3d., 6s. ll|d.; from 
Rowsley, 8s. 7d., 5s. 3|d. You can leave Nottingham 
early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and 
Buxton, and get to Birmingham at night. Birming- 
ham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal 
thought, and a great manufacturing place (435,000 
Inhab.). Camden said of old '* Bremicham " (Brum- 
magem ?), that ** it echoed with the noise of anvils, 
for there were a great many smiths." Almost 
everything that can be made of metal is fabricated 
at Birmingham. Visit the MMngton's Electro-plate 
Works ; Gillott's Steel Pen Works ; the Mint ; the 
gun- works ; the Town Hall, in which are held the 
renowned triennial musical festivals. Neio Corpora- 
tion Offices ; Free Library ; Neio Post Office ; Mar- 
ket Hall ; Exchange ; Birmingham and Midland In- 
stitute; King Edward VVs Free Grammar School; 
General Hospital; St, Philip's Ch. ; Aston Hall, in, 
the handsome Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens 
(Is.; on Mon., Id.) are worth notice. 

Excursions may be made to (13 M.) 'Wolver- 
hampton {Star and Garter ; Taliof),the metropo- 
lis of the Black Country, which has manufacturing 
trade in tin and iron goods (85,000 inhab.). Things 
to see : St. Peter's Oh.; Queens-Square, with eques- 
trian statue of Prince Albert ; Library ; Theatre ; 
Orphan Asylum.~To (29 M.) Stafford {Northwest- 
em Hotel ; Swan), a well-built modern town. 
Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See 
old timber-houses, especially the Noah's Ark, in 
Crabbery-St. ; St. Mary's and St. Chad's Chs.; the 
Bu7y Ping ; Stafford Castle, ^ M. out. Leather 
is the chief industry. — To Kidderminster, fa- 
mous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch. 
is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through. 



112 WORCESTER.-COVENTRY. 

the ch.-yard commands views of the town and river 
Stour. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard 
Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester 
{Star Hotel; Crown), nearly in the centre of England, 
and finely situated on an ascent from the Severn. The 
Foregate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an 
elegant structure, built in 1024-1374, 394 ft. long, 
78 wide, 162 high. Beautifully decorated in the lady 
chapel, where the roof is covered with figures painted 
in medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is 
restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the 
choir-screen. Among the monuments is King John's, 
one of the most ancient in England ; statues of Bishops 
Wulstan, Oswald and Hough; tomb of Prince Arthur, 
son of Henry V., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters 
where the monks once resided are interesting. The 
handsome decagonal chapter-house is now used as a 
national school. Other public buildings : Episcopal 
Palace, close by the Severn; the Commandery; 
Edgar's Totver; the Guildhall, with royal statues; 
and the Hopmarlcet, the most important in England. 

Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, 
Stratford-on-Avon. 

' It is a relief to get out of the region of factories 
into the delightful quiet of old Coventry {Graven 
Arms ' King's Head Hotel; Queen's Hotel). Distance 
from Birmingham, 18| M. ; fares, 3s. 6d., 2s. 6d., Is. 
7-^d. Coventry was formerly the third city m the 
kingdom. Everyone knows the story of Lady Go- 
diva. An eifigy, called Peeping Tom, is still exhibited 
at the corner of Hertford-St. In Richard II. 's time 
the city was defended by a wall, with 26 towers and 
12 gates, some of which remain; but the greater 



ENGLAND. 113 

part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coven- 
try retains much of its ancient picturesque aspect, with 
narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber houses, 
and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The 
*' three tall spires " of which Tennyson speaks are those 
of St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ Clis. St. Michael's^ 
one of the finest Gothic structures in England, was 
founded about 1133. The charming spire, 308'ft. high, 
was built 1373-95. The ch. was rebuilt in 1434, and 
is 400 ft. long. " Most magnificent, — so old, yet 
enduring ; so huge, so rich," Hawthorne found it. 
Trinity Ch. is close to St. Michael's, and was once 
a fine specimen of Gothic. Dugdale finds a mention 
of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260. 
Christ Ch. was founded h^ the begging rrreyfriars. 
The spire Is the only remaining part of the old ch. ; 
St. John's Ch.y at the N. W. end of the city, is a 
tine old building, with a massive tower. St. Mary's 
Hall is a beautiful edifice near St. Michael's. It 
originally belonged to St. Catherine's Guild, and 
was built about the middle of the 14th century. 
The Free Scliool; Orey friars or Ford Hospital; 
the Workhouse, built out of the remains of the 
Whitefriars Monastery (founded in 1342) ; and 
lie remnants of the gates, are other objects of 
interest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory, 
founded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stone- 
leigh Abbey, a place of great antiquity, held before 
the Conquest by King Edward. Henry II. granted it 
to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely 
one, the Avon bathing two sides of the verdant slopes 
on which the old monastic house was located. There 
is a fine park in front ; and a road, crossing the Avon 
by an eltgant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway, 
'iiie building is clothed with ivv, and its ponderous 



114 KENILWORTH 

oaken gates are very curious. Within the stnte apart- 
ments are many paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyck, 
Holbein, Teniers, ere. 

For tiiose who liave time, nothing can be more de- 
lightful than a leisurely tour on foot irom Coventry 
to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon ; 
going out from this region of line old castles, lovely 
valleys, and beautiful fields, by Rugby, and thence 
either straight down to London, or to Peterboro', and 
Ely, making a detour to Cambridge and Oxford. For 
those who desire to see Kenilworth, Warwick and 
Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will 
be no other course than to take a carriage at Coventry, 
Leamington, Warvrick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip 
is as follows: Go from Coventry (5 M ), by a road 
shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to 
Kenilworth (King's Arms ; Abbey ; Castle), where 
chief attraction i^ Kenilworth Castle, standing on an 
eminence to the W. The fii-st buildings, in a deep hol- 
low overgrown by underbrush, are the base and side 
walls of the Gallery Tower, the S. E. end of the Tilt 
Yard, and originally the chief entrance to the Castle. 
Enter by a gate in the N. wall (trifling fee), and first 
arrive at Leicester s Gatehouse, a sqnare building of 
four stories, flanked at each angle with an octagonal 
tower, and embattled. This building is not entered 
by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing 
on, you come directly in front of the main build- 
ings ; and looking W. have the inner court in full 
view. The E. side of the square was composed 
of buildings erected by King Henry VIIL antl Sir 
Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On 
the r. is Ccesar's Tower, a vast keep of immense 
strength, with walls many feet thick. Beyond is the 
building called Mervyn's Tower, which all readers of 
Scott's novel of Kenilworth will visit. The chambers 



ENGLAND. 115 

are all arciied with stone, and it is supposed that they 
served as prisons in the time of Henry II. From the 
top may be seen on the r. the remains of the Swam 
Tower, which formed the N. W. angle of the outer 
walls built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervym 
Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Hall, built by 
John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a ston» 
vaulting, carried on parallel rows of pillars, the remain* 
of which may be seen. Notice the great height of the 
windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed. 
Beyond the Banqueting-Hall are the White Hall, the 
Presence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber ; and still 
S. are the remams of Leicester's buildings, of great 
height and remarkable architectural beauty. The cas- 
tle was founded by Geoffroy de Clinton, Chamber- 
lain to Henry I ; to pass presently to the crown of 
Henry III. It was granted to Simon de Montfort, 
and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After 
Leicester's defeat and death, his eldest son sheltered 
himself in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in 
which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.'s 
time a magnificent tournament occurred here. Edward 
II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time ; and the 
visits of Elizabeth to Kenilworth were in 1566, 1568, 
and 1575. The last was immortalized by Scott. 

From Kenilworth by the highway to Warwick is 
about 5 M., by Leek Wootton, a village built on a rocky 
eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is 
Blacklow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees, 
is seen the monument erected to mark the spot on 
which Piers Gavepton. Earl of Cornwall, was be- 
headed. 1^ M. from Warwick, is Quy's Cliff, the 
handsome country-seat of Lord Percy, and a place of 
religious retirement more than 4 centuries previous to 
the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this 



116 WARWICK. 

place to have finished his iife of adventure, as a her. 
mit. Leland, in Henry VIII.'s time, calls this "the 
abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses." Cam- 
den, Dugdale, and Fuller are all equally enthusiastic in 
its praise. Giii/s Cave and Guij's Well are shown, 

Warwick {Warwick Arms; Dale Temperance; 
these hoases, though comfortable, are small and apt to 
be crowded.; it is best to telegraph for rooms in ad- 
vance) is near the centre of beautiful Warwickshire, 
on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town 
is of Saxon origin, and was formerly surrounded with 
strong walls, of which there are now but few rem- 
nants. The old gates are interesting ; and the Hospital, 
founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the finest 
specimens of half-timber buildings. It stands at the 
W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, which pos- 
sesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking orna- 
ment. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage 
of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the 
town once passed. A tower, built by Thomas de Beau- 
champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the 
chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the fortifi- 
, cations. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hos- 
'pital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They 
have to wear a livery wlien abroad, consisting of a fine 
blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and 
ragged staff. Lord Leicester's device. SI. Marfs is the 
principal ch. in Warwick. It was founded prior to the 
Conquest ; and contains many curious monuments, and 
Beauchamp Chapel, which is considered the most splen- 
did in England, after that of Henry VII. 

Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in 
England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which 
overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk 
down to the stone bridge, from which there is a fine 



ENGLAND. 117 

view of the castle. The moonlight view is striking. 
Enter the castle by a huge gate, and walk up a winding 
way, bordered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, 
formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time 
cf Henry IV. On the r. is Gufs Tower, 128 ft. high, 
30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick ; and on 
the L the venerable Ccesar's Tower, coeval with the 
Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy's 
Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is 
the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and suc- 
ceeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise 
above those of the first. After passing the double 
gateway you are in the inner court, and see the great 
castle directly in front of you. When the family is 
absent (and it generally is), the interior is shown. The 
rooms shown are the Great Hall, from which a view is 
obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333 
ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. Prom this 
great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel 
Passage, Van Dyck's celebrated painting of Charles I. 
You pass through the Red Drawing-Room ; the Cedar 
Drawing-Room, containing a bust by Hiram Powers, 
and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck ; and next 
enter the Gilt Drawing-room', which contains many 
old paintings. The bed and furniture in the State 
Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry in 
this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable 
museum ; and the effect of the immense height, and 
the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, 
is curious. Here are pictures by Holbein, Rubens, 
Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through the Arm- 
ory Passage to a billiard-room, rich with portraits ; 
a Compass-Room, the Chapel, and the Library, in 
which is the famous Keniiworth buffet, made of oak 
grown on the Keniiworth estate. In the BreaPfa^t 



118 WARWICK CASTLE. 

Room is a fine collection of paintings by Canaletto, wh<^ 
resided for some time at the castle. (Small fee to ser- 
vant who shows the apartments : for one person, 6d 
or Is.; for a party of 4, 2s.) Cesar's Tower, neailj 
150ft. high, has a dark and dismal dungeon beneath it 
on the walls of which are scrawls made by prisoners. 
Guy's Tower, the top of which is reached by a flight 
of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry, 
Kenilworth, Guy's Clitf, Leamington, and tiie neigh- 
borhood. The gardens are very fine, and on tlie hill of 
the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the 
Porter's Lodge are relics of the hero Guy. Hawthorne 
calls this " one's very idea of an old castle." From 
"Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. runs from Lea- 
mington through Warwick to Stratford. (From War- 
wick to Stratford, 13^ M.) The most desirable route, 
however, is by highwa}^ 8 M. from Warwick, past 
Charlcote, the country-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. 
Tiiis is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those 
who can to make it on foot, that they may linger among 
the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford 
through the pleasant meadows. Charlcote House 
is off the route to Stratford, but the drivers usuallj 
take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in th« 
midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer, 
the sight of which will call to mind the youthful ad- 
venture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose- 
cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy 
inmiortal as Justice Shallow. From Charlcote you 
pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country, 
and, crossing the Avon, Bridge, enter 

Stratford-on-Avon (Shakespeare Hotel ; Red 
Horse ; Falcoti), a quiet old-fashioned place, with wide 
ftnd well-kept streets, and many handsome mansions. 
The Town Hall was dedicated to the memory of the 



ENGLAND. 119 

poet. Here is a statue of Shakespeare presented by 
Garrick. On the pedestal see lineo from Hamlet : 
" Take him for all in all, we shall not look upon his 
like again." Very interesting is the Shakespeare 
Memorial Building and Theatre, which we advise you 
to visit first on entering the town. This memorial 
structure, in a charming situation by the Avon, was 
the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should 
have a suitable monument in his native town. 

From the Memorial go to Holi/ Trinity Ch., a cruci- 
form edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept 
Rnd chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a 
fovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard 
full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions. 
If the doors are not open, the driver will go for the 
teys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and 
some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shake- 
speare xS in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain 
flagstone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an or- 
namental arch with a bust of Shakespeare, in r. thought- 
ful attitude. From this burial-place of genius it is but a 
short distance to \he, village of Shottery, where stands, 
embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the resi- 
dence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode 
Shakespeare courted his wife. Mrs. Baker, a lineal 
descendant of the Hathaways, shows the quaint inte- 
rior ; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne 
(vere wont to sit ; many bits of venerable furniture ; 
and, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway 
tas drawn the last breath of hfe. She also shows a 
v^isitors' book, which contains the names of a great num- 
ber of eminent EngHshmen and Americans (small fee^. 
Return to Stratford, and in Henley- St. you will find the 
Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber 
building, in >ifnich i^he poet was born (1564), and whtre 



120 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 

his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on 
the ground floor, one of which is a museum ; of the 
room in which Shakespeare was born, up-stairs; and 
smaller rooms, in one of which is the celebrated Strat- 
ford portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received 
pictures, but believed by many people to be more au- 
thentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape 
destruction. The room in which the poet was born 
is in its original state, except that visitors of every 
nation and every rank have scribbled their names on 
the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron, 
Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of 
Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles 
Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the 
property of the nation, having been purchased in 1847 
by public subscription. In the museum are early edi- 
tions of Shakespeare's plays; the deed made in 1596, 
showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet, 
resided in this house ; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney 
to Shakespeare in 1598, requesting a loan of £30, the 
only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the 
poet ; Shakespeare's signet ring, with the initials W. S. 
upon it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re- 
moved from the Grammar Scliool; the Shakespeare 
jug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769 ; 
and a sword, which once belonged to Shakespeare. 
Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving, 
by Lucien Bonaparte, and others, are also to be seen. 
Visitors register their names. The old visitors' books 
are most curious. The first one, beginning in 181^, 
may be seen at Mrs. James's, near the Town Hall, in 
High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's birthplace, 6d. 
House open daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should now come 
to Ne'W Place, where Shakespeare lived during his 
prosperous latter years, and where he died (1616). It 



ENGLAND. 121 

is to-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is^ 
gone. Opposite is the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269 ; 
chancel rebuilt about 1450. In the second story of 
the adjacent Guild Hall is the Grammar ScJiool, 
where Shakespeare was one of the pupils. Visit on&- 
or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and 
the Shakespeare; the former, where you can lunch, 
before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unromantic- 
looking house, rendered interesting by the genius of 
Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the* 
room where he stayed; a chair, with his name en- 
graved on a brass plate ; the poker with which h& 
poked the fire, etc. 

From Warwick go by rly. (2 M.) to Leamingtoit 
{Manor House Hotel), a famous watering-place, with 
sulphuretted saline springs. The most important 
building is the Royal Pump Room and Baths. 

You may go directly from Warwick to Londoi;^ 
(fares, 15s.6d., lls.lOd., 8s.6d.; time, 3 hrs. ; distance, 
97f M,). Oxford may be visited on the way; but w^ 
recommend you to go to Rugby, Peterborough, Ely, 
Cambridge, and Northampton ; then from Bedford to* 
Oxford and London. You will pass through 

Rugby {Royal George Hotel; Eagle; Three Horse'- 
shoes), Dickens's Mughy Junction, famous by its; 
Grammar School, founded in 1567. Here the cele- 
brated Dr. Arnold was head master ; and the readers; 
of Tom Broum will perhaps wish to visit the school. 
Close by is Castle Mount, where a stronghold stood- 
in the time of King Stephen. 1^ M. out is Bilton- 
Hall, where Addison lived. In the garden is Ad- 
dison's favorite walk. After leaving Rugby yoii. 
soon reach 

Peterborough {Great Northern Hotel; Angel;- 
Bull) anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriving: 
its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, estab- 
lished in 655, shortly after the Saxons had become- 



1122 PETERBOROUGH. 

Christianized. Tlie Danes destroyed this abbey (807), 
^nd it was restored in 966. Then the town was 
named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The 
abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious 
bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the king- 
dom, and was selected as the see of one of the new 
bislioprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly 
during the , civil wars ; and the cathedral itself was 
-sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared 
Peterborough Abbey because Catherine of Aragon lay 
l)uried within its enclosure. It is a noble Norman 
structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, 
"Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are 
in excellent preservation. At the W. end of the 
cathedral is a fine court, on the S. side of which a 
range of the old monastic structures is still erect. 
The W. front (built 1250), 3 vast open arches, has 
ibeen called "the grandest portico in Europe." See 
the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the 
Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said: 
"Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of 
Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, — so 
quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful." Most of the 
beautiful glass and all the records in the cathedral 
were destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers. The E. end 
was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Bap- 
■tist there are some exquisite figures by Flaxman. 
Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2 
M. out is Milton Park, the seat of Earl Eitzwilliam. 
"9 M. distant is Castor, with a perfectly preserved 
Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Fotheringhay, with 
a splendid ruined ch., and the ruins of the old Plan* 
tagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was 
;put to death. From Peterborough it is 30 M. (fares, 
6s. 3d., 5s,, 2s. 5id.) to 



EN&LAND. 123 

Ely {Lamb Inn; Bell). The Isle of Ely is a tract 
of high land, amid the fens; and here a monastery- 
was founded by St. Etheldreda (673). A charter was 
granted by Edgar, confirmed by Canute, Edward the 
Confessor and the Pope. The isle made an excellent 
defence against William the Conqueror. The cathe- 
dral was founded about 1082. The stalls are remark- 
able specimens of wood-carving. The Galilee is a 
beautiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb 
Gothic dome, with exquisite details. Note the new 
oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich marble carvings 
in the Choir; the Stalls; Bishop Alcoch's Ghayel; 
Prior Crandene's Chapel; and the ancient Bishop'^ 
Palace. There is a Park S. of the Cathedral. The: 
Lady Chapel was begun in the reign of Edward II., 
and is considered one of the most perfect buildings 
of its kind. Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic 
cathedral (but one) in Europe (537 ft.). The W. 
tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see 
King's Hand-Book of English Cathedrals, which is 
an excellent companion in these ancient towns. 
From Ely proceed to 

Cambridge {University Arms; Red Lion; Bull; 
Hoop; Sirdar; Prince of Wales), 56 M. from London, 
and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over 
the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the 
foundation of the University; but the oldest college, 
Peterhouse or St. Peter's, can only be referred to 1257. 
The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Town Hall, 
University halls and library, and Fitzwilliam Museum. 

There are 17 colleges, in ferior in architectural beauty 
to those of Oxford, though their associations are quite 
as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIII. 
in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles; a splendid hall 
in the Tudor style; gardens; and an important library, 
"With, busts of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen's statue- 



124 CAMBRIDGE. 

joi Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Milton' 9 
JilSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 1442, was 
Milton's college. In the gardens is Milton's Mulberry* 
Tree. The quadrangle was rebuilt by Inigo Jones. 
■Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine build- 
ings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius 
^pronounced Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged 
in 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Re- 
built lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus 
Christ! (1351) contains curious portraits, especially 
fchose of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Erasmus, and 
Foxe, the author of the Book of Martyrs. King's 
College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest 
l^uilding in the University. The chapel is the finest 
specimen of perpendicular Gothic existing. The 
roof, unsupported by pillars, contains 12 divisions of 
exquisite lace-work tracery in stone. The 24 stained- 
glass windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The 
music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to 
the Sunday service. Bt. John's, founded by Mar. 
garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quad- 
rangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See 
also 'Emmanuel, 1584 (whose graduates founded New 
England); St. Catherine's (1475); Clare (1326); 
Downing (1807) ; Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney Sttssex 
<1596) ; Magdalene (1519) ; Trinity Hall (1347). 

The most striking part of Cambridge is "the Backs," 
where the college gardens slope down to the river, 
overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome 
bridge. The site of Cambridge is flat, and forms part 
«f the great Fen Level. 

'»Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the fa* 
mous turf resort, which became popular in the davs of 
James I., who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is 
Bury St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noblfi 



ENGLAND. 125 

ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate 
the martyrdom of Bdmond. We proceed next to 

Bedford {Swan; Embankment; George; Red Lion), 
once the home of John Bunyan. His chair, m. 
Bunyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and 
Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of Ths 
Pilgrim's Progress, still exists. Bunyan's birthplace 
was Elstow, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there his cot- 
tage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey-ch. 
See the fine statue of Bunyan, preaching, and hold- 
ing the Bible. This stands on St. Peters Green. 
Scenes from TJie Pilgrim's Progress on pedestal. The 
Duke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. The 
philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. 
distant. The Swan Inn occupies the site of the old 
castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From 
Bedford it is but a very short journey to 

Northampton {Angel Hotel; George; Plough), 
the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (70,000 
inliab.). 20 Parliaments were held here between the 
the 12th and 14th centuries ; and on one occasion tbe 
University was transferred hither from Oxford. The 
Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demol- 
ished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of 
Thomas a Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting 
sights, — St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Tem- 
plar, on the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; 
the Town Hall; the Shire Hall. Statue by Chantrey 
of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor' g 
Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry VI. was de- 
feated by Warwick in 1460. Althorp Park, seat of 
Earl Spencer, with famous hbrary and picture-gallery, 
7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to' 

Oxford (^Randolph Hotel, the most modern, with res- 
taurant; Clarendon; Mitre wad. Roebuck, in the centre 



126 OXFOBD. 

of the town, first-class ; King's Arms Hotel ; Oolden 
Cross Hotel). The modern town contains the County 
Jail, near the old tower of Oxford Castle ; the 7hw)% 
Hall ; and the Martyrs' Memorial, a Gothic monu- 
ment in St. Giles, near the spot where Cranmer, 
Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 
1555-6. Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the 
time of Alfred the Great, or even earlier. The origi- 
nal town Was demolished by the Danes. The tradi- 
tions of modern Oxford go back to the Conquest, 
after which the monasteries founded there obtained 
great fame for their learning. The town-plan is a 
cross, 4 broad streets converging from the cardinal 
points. The central point is called Corf ax, a cor- 
ruption of Quatre voies. The curve of High-St., 
with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it 
one of the finest street^s in Europe. 

Public buildings to be visited : The Schools; AsJimo- 
lean Museum, containing the Arundel MarUes. Bod- 
lean Library, with its interesting portraits ; Bad- 
cliff e Observatory; Taylor Institution; JJnimrsity 
Galleries (open daily, 12-4), containing important 
drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; Univer- 
sity Museum, a modern Gothic building in the Park. 
The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily, 
after 2 p. m.). See the beautiful Oh. of 8t. Mary. 
University College was founded, according to 
tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great , but it dates 
historically from 1280. Imposing high-towered gate- 
ways, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by 
John Balliol, and Devorgilla, his wife (parents of 
John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1268. The build- 
ing has been restored, and new halls built, Merton 
(1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture. 
Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter 
(1314), fine modern spire to the chapel (a copy of La 



ENGLAND. 127 

:^ainte GJiapelle, at Paris. Very large buildings. 
Koteci timber roof iu ball. Oriel (1326), where at 
one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey, 
and Wilberforce. Queen's (1431), with hall de-. 
signed by Wren. New College (1380), one of the 
iinest architecturally, with beautiful cloisters ; fine 
chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1437), John 
Wesley's college. All Bonis' (1437), fine buildings 
in two quadrangles. Magnificent chapel, with rere- 
dos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maud- 
len), founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile, 
cloisters, gardens, Addison's walk along the Cher- 
well. Splendid chapel (famous choral service, 5 P.i£ 
during term). Erasenose (1512), Bishop Heber's 
college. Corpus Christi (1516), almost unchanged 
for 300 years. Christ Churcli, founded by Car- 
dinal Yf olsey (1525). Facade 4i:0 ft long. Attached 
to this foundation is the GaiUedral of Christ Ok^ 
(once the ch. of St. Frideswide's Ejiory). The great 
college tower contains Great Tom, which weighs^ 
17,000 lbs. Fine library and pictures. Immense 
•quadrangle. Through the nevv^ buildings pass into 
jie beautiful Christ-Church meadows (50 acres on 
the rivers Isis and Cherwell). Trinity (1554), beau- 
tiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and 
chapel. St. John's (1555), magnificent late Gothic 
buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus (1571), fre- 
quented largely by .Y/elshmen. Fine hall, chapel, 
and library. Wadliani (1613), beautiful gardens. 
Fine chapel and hail, with timber roof. Pembroke 
(1634), Samuel Johnson's college. Worcester 
(1714), beautiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by 
subscription as a memorial to the Rev. John Keble, 
in 1870. 

Oxford to London by Great Western Ely., 63^ M.» 
foy N. Western, 78 M."(lls., 8s. 4d., 5s. M.\ 



128 LONDON. 



London. 



Hotels. — Albemarhf Avondale, Berheuy, Picca- 
dilly ; Carlton, Pall Mall ; Brown^s and St. George's 
Hotel, Dover-St. ; Bristol, Burlington Gardens ; 
Claridge^s, BucMand's, Brook-St. ; Windsor, Vic- 
toria-St. ; Buchingliam Palace Hotel', St. Ermin's^ 
Caxton-St. ; Langham, Portland PI. ; Ford's, Man- 
chester-St. ;■ De Keyser's Royal, Blackf riars Bridge ; 
Savoy, Cecil, Thames Embankment ; Morley's, Tra- 
falgar Sq. ; Hans Crescent Hotel, South Kensington 
Hotel, Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner; Bailey's, 
Gloucester-Rd. ; JS'orris's, Russell-Rd. ; Hotel Bus- 
sell, Riissell Sq. ; Bins of Court, First Avenue, High 
Holborn; Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Hd. 
There are several good hotels for men only, among 
which way be mentioned Tavistock, Covent Garden ; 
Cave7idish, Mot^Ws, Bru7iswick, Cox's, British, 
Jermyn St, A peculiar institution of London and 
: some other English towns is the temperance hotel ; of 
this class are Philjfs CocJihimi Hotel, Endsleigh 
Gardens; West Central, Southampton Row; Shir- 
ley's, Queen Square; Thackeray, Great Russell St. 
Each of the principal railway stations has a large and 
often very good hotel connected with it ; there are 
the Great Eastern, Liverpool St. ; City Tei^minus 
Hotel, Cannon St.; Holborn Viaduct; Midla^id 
Grand, St. Pancras Station; Great Western, Pad- 
dington Station ; Great Central, Marylebone Station ; 
Grosvenor, Victoria Station; Charifig Cross; Great 
Northei^n, King's Cross ; Fusion, Euston Square. In 
Albermarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington, St. James, 
and Clifford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and 
around Covent Garden and the Strand are many 
excellent houses. At the great houses, single rooms, 
4s.-15s. per day; attendance, Is. 6d. ; brealifast, 3s.- 
3s. 6d. ; table d'hote dinner, without wine, 5s.; 



ENGLAND. 129 

luncheon, a la carte. In some few hotels dinner is 
7s. 6d. In hotels of the second order, bedrooms cost 
2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, Is.-ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. ; 
dinner, 3s. -4s. Beware of ordering dinner d la carte 
in the coffee-rooms : the bill becomes enormous. If 
you stay more than 3-4 days, the servants who wait 
on you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are 
several excellent private boarding establishments 
patronized mainly by Americans. Furnished Lodg" 
ings without board are not expensive. Very good 
double bedrooms may be had for 15s. -21s. per week; 
breakfast per person, in the house, 12s. 6d.-15s. per 
week; single bedrooms, 8s.-14s. per week. 

Restaurants. — London has been poor in these in 
comparison with Paris and other Continental cities, 
but they are becoming more numerous each year. 
We may mention especially the Trocadero, Picca- 
dilly, and Criterion, in Piccadilly Circus; Frascati's, 
Oxford St. ; Verry and Burlington, Regent St. ; JIol- 
horn, Horseshoe, Tottenham Court Rd.; Kettner^s, 
Soho; Dieudonne, Ryder St.; Florence, Rupert St.; 
Romano's, Gatti's, Tivoli Grand, Adelphi, in the 
Strand. In the City are the Auction Mart, Token- 
house Yard ; Lo7idon Tavern, Fenchurch St. ; Pimtn's, 
Poultry St.; Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate Within; Old 
Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Court ; Siveeti?ig, Cheap- 
side. Many of the large hotels have good, but ex- 
pensive, table d'hote dinners. 

The American Ambassador to the Court of St, 
James is Hon. Joseph H. Choate. The Consul-General 
of the United States in London is Mr, W. M. Osborne. 

A Round-Trip Omnibus Route. — From Trafal- 
gar Sq. take a Blackwall (blue) omnibus via Charing 
Cross, the Strand, Fleet St., Ludgate Hill, Cheapside, 
the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate. Whitechapel, Commer- 
cial Rd., to Burdett Rd. Get down here, and take 
tramway (yellow horse-car) through Victoria Park. 
Walk up the Victoria Park Rd., and at the end of the 



130 LONDONo 

road take the tram to City Rd., past Hackney and 
Old St. Rd. City Rd. crosses Old St. Rdo Take tram 
(blue) to Archway Tavern by City Rd., Liverpool Rd. 
and Holloway Rd. From HoUoway Rd. a car may 
be taken via Caledonian Rd. to King's Cross, and 
from King's Cross take (green) omnibus to The Castle^ 
Camden Town. Walk to the Britatmia, Camden 
Town, and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to 
Bishop's Rd. through Park St., St. John's V/ood Rd. , 
past Lords Cricket Ground, Grove Rd., Church St., 
Paddington Green. From where this omnibus stops 
another (yellow) may be taken via Edgware Rd., 
Oxford St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, King 
William St. and London Bridge. From London 
Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and 
Castle, Prom this point take a tram to Westminster, 
and then (yellow) omnibus to Trafalgar Square. 

The Underground Railways are convenient. 
The lletropoUtan and Metropolitan District Rys. 
run in a circle from Notting Hill Gate to Aldgate 
and have numerous feeders to the suburbs. The 
City and South London Electric Ry, and the Water- 
loo and City Ry. pass in tunnels beneath the Thames, 
the former to Clapham Common, the latter to Water- 
loo Station. The Central London Ry., called popu- 
larly the "Twopenny Tube," runs in nearly a 
straight line from the Bank of England to Shepherd's 
Bush. The uniform fare on the electric roads is 2d. 
Tramways are numerous (fares 2d. to 3d.) 

Cab-fares. — Within a 4-M. radius, of which Char- 
ing Cross is the centre, the fares are regulated thus: 
for any distance under 2 M., Is.; for every additional 
M. or part thereof, 6d. Within the central part of 
London the ordinary cab course is rarely more than 
Is. ; but the cabman generally demands Is. 6d. from 
the stranger. Outside the 4-M. circle, Is. per mile. 
When engaged by hour, 4-wheeled cabs, locally called 




Section of London, witli| 




—1 ^» I— -<.>^ 



rngton House as Centre. 



ENGLAND. igl 

growlers, inside the radius, for 1 hr. or less, 2s. ; for 
eyevj additional 15 min., 6d. Bag-gage, 2d per pk.; 
hansoins. per h, . 2s. 6d ; ever}^ additional 15 min, , 8d. 
Tliea.tres, etc. — Among the principal are: Covent 
Oardcn, Bow St.; ^i'e-7i?//e, Northnmherlaiid Ave.; 
Covie-dy, Pantoii St,; Garrick^ Charing Cross Rd,; 
.Lyric and Shafieshury , Shaftesbury Ave ; JJah/s, 
Cranbourne St.; Wyndham'Sy Charing Cross Rdc 
Glenteel comedy, at the Haymarket, in the Haymarket;' 
the Prince of Wales's, in Coventry-St.; the Pri7icess''s 
in Oxford-St. ; the St. James's, in King- St. ; the Vau- 
deville, in the Strand; the Criterion, in Piccadilly; 
and the Court, in Sloane-Square, For melodrama and 
sensational pieces, go to Drury Lane, in Catherine- 
St. , the AdelpJhi, in the Strand, and the Frincess^Si 
For opera-bouffe, ballet, and spectacle, visit the Al" 
hambra, in Leicester-Square ; the Gaiety, in the 
Strand; the Globe, in Newcastle-St., Strand; the 
Olympic, in Drury Lane ; the Opera Comique, in the 
Strand ; the Royalty, in Soho ; the Savoy, and the 
Strand Theatre. The Lyceum, on Wellington-St., 
is the leading theatre, and there Shakespearian tra- 
gedy and melodramas are produced. Mr. Irving and 
Miss Ellen Terry play here. The E. End theatres, of 
which there are several, ai"e worth a visit, to get an 
idea of how the lower classes take their amusement. 
Music-halls abound. The best are: HM Oxford, in 
Oxford St. ; the Alhambra and the Empire, Leicester 
Sq.5 and the Pavilion, in Piccadiiiy Circus. The 
Aquarium, at Westminster, gives varied entertaiu- 
ments. Visitors in winter will find the best painto- 
mimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. Li South 
London is th*^ Surrey The dre.. in Bhickfriars R:;;;;!, 
which was at first a circus and later, after beiiig ]-e- 
bnil t, the home of the legitimate Drama Pi-otiienade 
eoii.eerts are held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent (xar- 
den; good concerts, with ballad, singing, ai'e plenty 
during tlie season at St. James's Hall and the ^lioyal 



132 LONDON-ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. 

Albert Hall. The latter has celebrated organ of 
10,000 pipes and 130 stops. 

Museums. — The British Museum, Great Russell 
St.; see p, 147. Betlinal Green Museum, Cambridge 
Rd.; paintings, food products, British butterflies, etc.; 
Wed. 6d., other days free. Oeological, Jeremyn St.; 
10 till dusk; free on introduction by a member. 
Natural History, South Kensington; 10 till dusk; 
free. South Kensington, see p. 149. Sir John 
Soane^s, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields; antiquities; 10 till 
dusk, free on application. United Service, Whitehall 
Yard; war relics, model of Battle of Waterloo, etc.; 
admission (except Wed.) 6d. Indian, S. Kensington; 
free. Architecture, Twiion St.; free; Antiquarian, 
Burlington House; free on application to secretary. 
Guildhall, King SL; London antiquities; free. Bo- 
tanical, Regent's Park; free on order from one of the 
Fellows. Li^mcean, Burlington House; free on 
Member's order. Royal College of Surgeons, Lin- 
coln's Inn Fields; anatomical and pathological speci- 
mens. The Wallace Collection of paintings, furni- 
ture, ceraniics. armor, etc., is in Hertford House, 
Manchester Square. Mme. Tussaud's WaxivorJiS 
are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is'.), with 
200 figures of celebrities. 

The City lies between Temple Bar (W) and Aid- 
gate (E), the Thames (S) and Smithfield and Fins- 
bury Circus (N), and has about 60,000 inhab. and 
the great offices, warehouses, etc. Westminster lies 
between the city and Chelsea, Oxford St. and the 
Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern 
streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of 
annexed villages, in the "Metropolitan District," 
which covers 690 square M., having 6,600 M. of 
streets, and 550,000 buildings. 

St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675- 
1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana, 
a Roman British ch,, and King Ethelbert's eh., built 



ENGLAND. 133 

In 610 and destroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded 
to the Pope (in 1213) ; Wyckliife was cited for heresy 
(1337) ; and Tyndale's New Testament was burned 
(1537). St. Paul's is a Latin Cross, with nave 500 X 
118 ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long; inner dome, 225 ft. 
high ; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter's 
and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is 
open from 10 a. m. to dark. Services at 8 and 10 a. 
M., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee at Crypt, 6d.; Whisper- 
ing and Stone Galleries, 6d.; Library, 6d. ; Ball, Is, 
6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles. 
The interior is vast, but bare. See organ and wood 
carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard, 
the philanthropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean 
Milman ; Bishop Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the 
historian ; Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John 
Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are th( 
porphyry and marble sarcophagi of Wellington, Nel 
son, and Collingwood ; Wellington's hearse ; and the 
tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Tur- 
ner, Fuseli, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to 
Library (10,000 vols.), Whispering Oallery, Stone 
Gallery, and Ball. Hare speaks of St. Paul's as 
*' sublimely grandiose, with a sooty dignity all its 
own "; and Hawthorne found it " unspeakably grand 

and noble It would not be nearly so grand 

without this drapery of black." 

Paternoster Bow, famous for books, is N. of the 
Cathedral ; and S. are the Deanery, Choristers' School, 
and Herald's College. Down the Row is Warwick Lane, 
once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker. 
The General Post-Ofiice and Telegraph Office are 
immense buildings near by, nearly hiding St. Veclasfs 
Ch., one of Wren's masterpieces. The wealthy 
Christ's Hospital, founded by Edward VI., on the 
site of a Greyfriars' convent, has 1,200 blue-robed 
pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt 
were educated here. Newgate, a famous prison. 



134 NE WG ATE. — GUILDHALL. 

where Jack Sheppard, Titus Gates, Wm. Penn, and 
Daniel Defoe were confined, is in the Old Bailey, 
reached from Ludgate Hill. N. of Christ's is /St. 
Bartholomew'' s Hospitaly a great quadrr.ngle 
founded as a priory in 1102, and converted into 
a hospital by Henry VIII. In the Great Hall 
are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Eeyuoids, 
etc. The grand IsTorman Cli. dates from 1102, and 
has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smith- 
field Market (3 1-2 acres under roof) occupies the 
ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and 
tournaments of Bartholomew Fair, and later for 
the martyrdoms under Bloody Mary and Elizabeth. 
Here, also, ^vYat Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were 
put to death. Newg-ate-St. leads to the noble Hoi" 
born Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end 
of which is St. hepulclire's Oh. (John Eogers was 
its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John 
Smith. Near Smithfield is the picturesque Char- 
terhoicse, a rich school and asylum on the site of a 
Carthusian convent (1371). Among the pupils here 
were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, 
Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirlwall, 
Thackeray, and Havel ock. See the Elizabethan 
Great Chamber ; doiaters,, chapel, and pictures in 
the Master's Lodge; also, in adjacent Bunhill 
Fields, tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts ; 
and, in St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell, the rare old 
m. John's Gate, built in 1504. The Guildhall, 
originally built 1411-31, but almost entirely de- 
stroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, has the muni- 
cipal oliices, a Gothic Library, a museum (Ro- 
man antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt, a'^d fine 
portraits. The Great Hall^ 153 X 50 fee., has 
a noble, timber roof, stained windov^'s, and the 



ENGLAI^O. 135 

wooden giants, Gog and Magog. Oresham Col- 
lege (1579) and OoldsmitM Hall are close by. 

Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops, 
from which run Bread-8t. , where Milton was born, and 
Miik-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on 
which stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakes- 
peare, Ben Jonsou, Beaum.ont and Fletcher, Donne, 
etc. Boio Gh. , built by Wren, rises over a Norman 
crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower 
235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its 
bells is a " cockney." Mercers' Hall, with its rich pil< 
lared court, is on the site of Thomas ^ Becket's 
birthplace (1119). The Grocers' and Armoreo^s' (flue 
hall and rich armor) Halls are farther on. The Man- 
sion House (1739-1753), and famous for the Egyp- 
tian Hall, is the palace of the Lord Mayor. The 
costly new Queen Victoria-St. leads thence, by 
Ai'^otJiecaries' Hall and The Times Ojfiee, to Black- 
friars Bridge (-i-M.). Opposite the i'lansion House 
Is tlie low, massive, and broad-based Bank of Eng- 
land, which keeps $75-100,000,000 in coin in its 
vaults. The splendid Royal Escliaiige, with its 
rich carvings, Corinthian colonnades, and campanile, 
and the Stock Exchange, are near by. Statues of 
Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange ; also 
Crosby^ Hall, built in 1466 ; and /S?^. Helen's Ch., of 
the 12th century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was 
bora. St. Micliael's Ch. v\'as built by Wren, and St. 
Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Lombctrd-St. is the 
Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the headquar- 
ters of colonial trade ; Mark Lane, the grain mar- 
ket. In St. Olave's Ch. is the tomb of Pepys ; and in 
Trimty Ch. (formerly a Minorite nunnery) is the 
Dnke of Suifolk's head. St. SwitJiin's C'll. has the 
famous London stone, a Roman milliarinm, built 
into its wall. The venerable St. Samour's Ch. is 
over Loudon Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Cha^: il 



136 THE TOWER. 

and Choir, and tombs of Massinger, Fletcher, Gow- 
er, and Shakespeare's brother. Beyond is the an- 
cient Guy's Hospital, in whose ch. Astley Cooper 
is buried. King- William -JSt. runs from the Bank, 
by iSt. Mary WoolnoWs Ch. and the site of Fal- 
staff's Boards Head Tavern, to London Bridge, 
928 ft. long, built in 1835-31, at a cost of $10,- 
000,000, on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 
100,000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Eomans 
and the Saxons had bridges here. The Monu- 
ment, 202 ft. high, built by Wren in 1671-77 to 
commemorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de- 
stroyed $357,000,000 of property) is close by. Fine 
■view from its top (fee, 3d.). TJiames-St. was Chau- 
cer's home, 1879-85. JSt. Magnus the Martyr, one 
of Wren's Chs., has Miles Coverdale's tomb. 
Farther E. is Billingsgate, the famous fish-market. 
The Custom House is 490 ft, long, on a quay be- 
side the Thames. 

The Tower is " historically the most interest- 
ing spot in England" (open daily, 10-4, 6d.; Mon. 
and Sat. , free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer 
Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' Gate are 
passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises 
the famous White Tower, built by William the 
Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort, It is 96 
X 116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, with turreted 
walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard II . abdicated his 
throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was im- 
mured. The beautiful Norman Chapel of St. John 
is here ; also the Council Chamber and Banqueting 
Hall. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been 
King John of France, King David Bruce of Scot- 
land, the Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, Wil- 
liam Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Straf- 
ford, and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col- 



ENGLAND. 13T 

lection of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Armoury, full 
of trophies, ancient armor of all nations, and 22 eques« 
trian figures in full English, Burgundian, and Germau 
armor, of dates from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by 
princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, 
Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Clueen Elizabeths 
Armoury contains weapons of the Elizabethan age, th© 
block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the 
axe which struck off the Earl of Essex's head. Ad- 
jacent is the 10 X 8 cell in which Sir Walter Ealeigb 
was confined, 1603-16. The Bloody Tower was that i» 
which the sons of Edward lY. were murdered; Lord 
Dudley was imprisoned in \he Beauchamp Tower; Prin- 
cess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower ; Lad}^ Jane Grey, in th© 
Brick Toiver. The Duke of Clarence was put to deatli 
ill the Bowyer Toicer ; and Henry VI. in Wakefield Tower. 
In the Jevjel House are the Crown Jewels.^ valued 
at ^15,000,000: St. Edward's crown; Yictoria's ci'own, 
with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire t\v\ 
ruby (it cost $560,000); several other crowns; the 
royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs; the Kch-I- 
Noor diamond; etc. In the cemetery attached to the 
ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula are the remains 
of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, 
Lord Somerset, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of North- 
umberland and Monmouth, and other noble victims. 
On Tower Hill stand Trinity House, whose brethren 
care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the 
Royal Mint. William Penn was born on Tower Hill % 
and the poet Otway died there. St. Katherines and 
London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded 
warehouses. London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost 
1120,000,000. Earther down are other vast docks, the 
largest in the world. N. W. of the Tower are Bethnal 
Green Museum aud Victoria Park. In the Swedish Ck 
at Sha dwell, SwedenboT^n. -^ ^"mp(J, 



138 FLEET-STREET. — THE TRMPLK 

Biackfriars Bridge, 1,273 ft. hug, on granite piers, 
is named IVom a monastery formerly hard by, founded 
in 1376, and where Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine 
of Aragon from Henry VIII. Sliaicespeare and Beir 
Jonson formerly lived at Biackfriars. The Victoria 
l^mbaiikment runs along tlie N. bank of the Tliumes, 

!iu Biackfriars to Westminster Bridge, 1|- M., occu- 
^ ;e'L by a road and walks 100 ft. vi'ide. This work was 
done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned 
with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram, 
and Brunei. Here also stands Cleopatra's Needle, the 
great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Water- 
gate of York House, built by Inigo Jones, On the site 
of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace, wliere King 
Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died. 

Pleet-Bt. runs from near St. Paul's to the Strand, 
passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on the site 
ai Fleet. Prisok, made famous by Dickens; the office of 
Punch; St. Bride's Ch., built by Wren, near site of 
Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the nov- 
elist; Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776- 
!84) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese 
hm, frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith; 
Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monas- 
tery; AUatia (down Bouverie-St.), the home of rogues, 
described in Scott's Fortunes of Nigel ; the site of 
Izaak Walton's hosiery-shop, lGM-43 ; the Gothic C^. 
of St. Bimstan in the West ; Mitre Court, and its famous 
old inn; and the Neto Record Office (open 10-1), a stately 
Tudor building, containing the Domesday Book. The 
Temple was founded by the Knights Templar in 1184, 
and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313. 
In 1346 it was leased to the lav\r schools, whicli have 
ever since occupied it. The buildings extend -^rona 
Fleet-St. to the famous Temple Gardens, where, the 



ENGLAiND. 13S- 

War of the Roses broke out. The 3Iiddle Temple lias 
a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572), with 
dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. John- 
son, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith 
hved ill the Middle Temple ; and the lattei- is buried in- 
the yard of the very beautiful Te.mple Cli. (open 10-T3, 
1-4 daily), built 'in 1185-1240, which lias quainfc 
old Templars' monuments, rich stained windows, and 
polislied pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly opposite,- 
across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb new laaw 
Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over 
$5,000,000. Farther. N. is the famous Lincoln's Inn^ 
the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint 
chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudoi' 
dining-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long hved here» 
In Ijincoln's Inn Fields is the Royal College of Sicr- 
geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Socnie 
Museum, with rare MSS. and early books, antique 
gems, ' mediaeval and Renaissance curiosities, a'nd 
paintings by Hogartli, Turner, Eastlake, Reynolds. 
Gray's Inn, on the N. side of Holborn, has been a 
law school since 1371. Bacon was a member here. 
Reyond the monument on the site of Temple Bar 
(built in 1670 ; taken down 1878), Fleet- St. is con- 
tinued as the Strand, connecting the city and the 
W". End. St. Ghment Danes Gh, stands over tlie 
tombs of Harold Ilarefoot and other Danish war- 
riors,. Dr. Johnson used to worship here ; Joe 
Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.- 
yard. Hard by is Clement's Inn, sacred to law- 
yers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex, 
Arusdel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from 
the ]^alaces of the great nobles formerly tliere- 
aboui-s, diverge to tlie Embankment. In the latter 
lived Oongreve and Sa'e ; Peter the Great lived in 



140 WATEHLOO BRIDGE. — CO VENT GARDEN", 

BucKingliam-St. Thomas a Becket was priest of the 
Ch. of St. Mary le Strand. Voltaire lived iu Maiden 
Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government build- 
ing, on the site of the Lord Protector's Palace, with a 
splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be 
seen (10-3 daily) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, 
Van Dyck, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. 
Waterloo' Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000. 
Exeter Hall stands in this region of theatres, and is a 
famous centre of religious movements. The Chapel 
Royal, Savoy y a Gothic ch., with ancient tombs, is in 
Savoy-St. It was built in 1505, on the site of the 
Savoy Palace, given by Plenry III. to Peter of Savoy ; 
owned by John of Gaunt ; destroyed by Wat Tyler's 
mob ; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In 
the Palace, Chancer wrote several poems; and there 
King John of France died. To the N. is Covent 
G-arden, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable market 
of London (visit before 7 a.m., Tues., Thnrs., or Sat.), 
on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of 
Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived 
Sir Kenelm Digby, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Crewe, Sir 
Godfrey Kneller, etc.; and the poet Marvell and the 
painter Turner dwelt in Maiden Lane. Inigo Jones 
iDuilt St. PauVs Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler 
C' Hudibras "), Sir Peter Lely, " Peter Pindar," the 
dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood-carver Grin- 
ling Gibbons, are buried. The Royal Italian Opera-House 
is in Covent Garden ; and near it is the Floral Hall. 
At Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross 
erected near its site by Edward I., in 1201. There 
is an ancient equestrian statue of Charles I. at 
Charing Cross. "The full tide of existence is at 
Charing Cross," said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane, 
Barrow, and Johnson lived iiereabouts. 



ENGLAND. 141 

The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col- 
umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nelson, 
and colossal lions designed by Landseer. Else- 
where are statues of^^^Havelock, George IV., and Sir 
Cli:irles Napier. On one side stood Northmnher- 
land House, the palace of the Percies, bought by 
the Board of Works for $2,500,000, and demolished 
in 1874. On part of its site stands the Grand Ho- 
tel. The Gh. of St. Martin in the Fields has a tine 
Grecian front ; and in its yard lie Roubillac the sculp- 
tor, Earqubar the dramatist, and Nell Gwymie. The 
niagniliceut National Gallery (free, open Mon., 
Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10 a.m., till dark; Tliurs. and 
>'ri. . 6d. ; Sun. , in summer) N. of Square, has a classic 
fapade, 460 ft. long. It contains over 1,000 pictures, 
and is visited by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly. 
Each picture lias its title and artist inscribed upon 
it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the 
most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless 
engravings, are in this great collection. National 
Portrait Qal. adjoins the Nat. Gal., open same days. 

Whitehall lead's S. to Whitehall Palace, where 
Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died ; 
where Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth was removed 
to prison, and Charles I. to execution ; where Milton 
and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died ; where Charles 
II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of 
Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican con- 
vent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great 
Palladian Banqueting Hall only remains, designed by 
Inigo Jones, painted by Rubens, and now used as a 
royal chapel (service on Sun. at 11 and 3). In a 
house near by, Sir Bobert Peel died. In this vicinity 
is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals ; once the 
property of the Scottish kings, aud later the home of 
Wren, Milton, Inigo Jones. Also Montague House, 



142 THE HOUSES OF PAELIAMENT. 

tlie palace of the Duke of Buccleucli. In Wliitehall 
Yard is the United Service Museum, crowded witii tro- 
phies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores, 
relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake, Franklin, 
Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse-Guard?. 
headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. Se 
mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10-4 daily. The Treu> 
urij comes ^lext S. The new Public Offices, buLir: 
in 18(38-73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost, |2,5U0,000), 
splendid pile of Italian buildinu-s, contain the Home, 
Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices. 

The Houses of Parliament form an immense 
Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian limestone 
(already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courts 
and 1, iOO rooms, erected 1840-59. Strangers admitted 
between 10 and 3 on a member's order. Fayade along 
Th-imes (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and 
.shit^lds of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid 
Victoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft, square ; the 
Middle Tower is 300 ft. high ; and the Clock Tower, 
318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dials 23 ft. across), and 
Bifj Ben, a bell weigiung 13 tons.- The oldest part is 
Westminster Hall, built by WiUiam Rufus in 1097, and 
covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak 
by Richard II. a splendid hall, 370 ft. long and 92 ft. 
high, formerly the seat of England's most august tri- 
bunals. Here Wallace, Strafford, Guy Fawkes, More, 
Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukea 
of Somerset, Buckingham, and Norfolk, the Scottish 
nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I. 
were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings 
was tried, and also the Seven Bishops. Here Edward 
III. received the captive kings, David of Scotland and 
John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord 
Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been 



ENGLAND. HS 

held for 800 years. A stairway descends to tlie crypt 
or Ch. of St. Mary Undercroft, built by King Steplien, 
and lately made resplendent as a chapel, St. Stephen's 
Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry VIII. 
Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephen's Hall, with 
statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient mon- 
archs ; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with 
statues. The corridors have large frescos of scenes- 
from English history. The House of Commons, 75 X 
45 ft,, is panelled with oak, and has 12 stained win- 
dows. The House of Lords, 97 X 45 ft., is a superb 
Gothic room, with 12 stained windows, statues of the 
Magna- Charta barons, 6 splendid historical frescos, 
the Lord Chancellor's woolsack and the thrones of the 
Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince's 
Chamber, Upper Waiting-Hall, Peers' R-obing-Room,. 
superb Victoria Gallery, and Queen's Robing-Room 
(richly frescoed). In Old Palace Yard is a statue of 
Richard Cceur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben. 
Jonson died. The old Parliament House, erected 
on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and- 
Piantagenet kings, and burned in ib34, contained 
the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of 
Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward 
the Confessor. Here resomided the eloquence of 
Pitt, Pox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grattan. 
Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a cost of 
31,250,000, commands a fine view of Parliament House. 
St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch, built in 1064 by 
Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E. 
window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, in- 
cluding those of poet-laureate Skelton, Milton's wife, 
Cromwell's mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Har. 
iringtoD (author qf Oceana), Su* Wm Waller, and Sis 



144 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 

Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar)„ 
Manyfine memorials stand in this vicinity; also Mil- 
ton's house, latterly occupied by Hazlitt, and fre- 
quented by Lamb and Haydonf Jeremy Bentham'a 
house; the quaint old Gray Coat School; and the 
pretty houses of Queen Anne's Gate. 

Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site of 
a temple to Apollo)^ by the Anglo-Saxon King Sebert 
in 616, for Benedictines ; destroyed by Danes ; and re- 
built by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor (1049), 
Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII. drove out 
the monks, Queen Mary restored them, aud Eliza- 
beth scattered them forever. All the sovereigns of 
England since Harold have been crowned here. It is 
416 ft. in length, and 102 ft. high, with W. towers 
235 ft. high. It is a splendid Early-English building, 
immense, harmonious, solemn, richly colored. (Enter 
nearSt. Margaret's; open, except Sun, ,9 a.m. till dark. 
Services at 8, 10 and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 
6d. ; Mon. and Tues. free.) It is world-renowned as 
England's Temple of Eame, crowded with monuments 
of kings, heroes, and scholars. In the N. Transept are 
tlie monuments of Admirals Warren, Vernon, Wager, 
Lord Chatham, Canning, Gastlereagh, Peel, Mansfield, 
two Dukes of NewcasQe, Warren Hastings, Cobden, 
Builer, and many famous lords. In the abbey 
are monuments to Yf ilberforoe, Stamford Raffles, Fowell 
Buxton, Isaac Ne^vton, Charles Lyell, Fox, Holland, 
Pitt, Wordsv/orth, Keble, Congreve, Biickland, Outram, 
Major Andre, Dr. Vv^atts, John Wesley, Gen. Paoh, 
Kneller, Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The Poets^ 
Cornier cotitpjns inscriptions to Goldsmith, Gay, 
Handel, Thomson, Southey, Shakespeare, Camp* 
"bell, Sheridan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, 
Thirlwall, Addison, Thackeraj, Casaubon- Barrow, 



ENGLAND. 145^ 

Crarrick, Prior, Grra/, Milton. Spenser, Butler, Jonson. 
l)rayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dryden, South, Browning 
and Tennyson, ^ee chapels of St. Benedict. St. 
JEdmond and St. Nicholas. The Chapel of Henry 
VII., built 1502-20, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, 
with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak cboir-stalls on 
e;io!i side (with the swords and banners of the Knights 
of tlie Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fanwork 
tracery. See tombs of Henry VII., James I., Marj 
Qaeen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary, George 
of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George IL, 
the Duke of Montpensier, Dean Stanley, Queen Eliza- 
beth, Edward V., etc. The Chapel of St. Edward the 
Confessor has tombs of Henry V., Katherine of Valois, 
Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard IL, Pliilippa of 
Haiuault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I. ; also, 
the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the 
gword and shield of Edward III. The Chapels of St. 
John, St, Erasmus, and the Abbot Islip contain ancient 
tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and 
Gen. Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and 
Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. 
Young, Mrs, Siddons, etc. The Chapter-House, built 
1250, and occupied by the House of Commons, 1282- 
1547, adjoins the Poets' Corner, and is near the Chapel 
of the Pyx, St. Blaise's Chapel, and the stairs to the 
Triforimn. Near by are the beautiful Cloisters. The 
World-renowned Jerusalem Chamber was built 1376-86. 
Here Henry IV. died ; and here the recent revision of 
the Bible was carried out, Westminster School, 
founded by Queen Elizabeth (1560), is entered near the 
column to the W, Wren, Gibbon, Cowley, Cowper, 
Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southey,. 
Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here. 1= 



146 ENGLAND. 

JSt. Thomas''s Hospital is a line of buildings 
J M. long (cost 12,500,000), opposite Parliament 
House. Beyond, and also on the Thames, is Lam- 
beth Palace, for 700 years the London house of 
the Archbishops of Canterbury, very beautiful and 
interesting. Enter by Cardinal Moreton's lofty em- 
battled gateway. The Ball has a fine timber-roof, and 
library of ,30,000 vols. Mon , Wed., Thurs., Fri., 
10-4). The Guard Chamber has portraits of many 
archbishops. The Chapel, in which these prelates 
are consecrated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lol- 
lai'ds'' Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tor- 
tured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace 
of the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are 
beautiful, i M. E. is Bethlehem Hospital for the In- 
sane {Bedlam) ; and a little beyond are St. George'' s 
Cathedral (Roman) and Spurgeon's Tabernacle. 

Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly \ M. long, run- 
ning W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with club 
houses, which are also found in St. James- St. 
Among these are the University, United Service, 
Athenaeum, Travellers', Reform, Carlton, Army and 
Navy, Guards, and Marlborough. Pall Mall cross- 
es TFarerZoo Plaoe, in which are the Crimean, Frank- 
lin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments, 
and the York column (124 ft. high; 6d. for ascent). 
In Pall Mall is Marlborough House, built by Wren, 
former residence of the Prince of Wales; near by 
Bt. James''s-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. St. 
James's Palace is a brick building, designed by 
Holbein and built by Henry VIII., the home of En- 
gland's kings from 1691 to 1809. Victoria was 
married in its chapel, and levees were held in its 
state-chambers. Guard-moimting and fine military 
music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House was the home 
of the Duke of Edinburgh. Stafford House 



ST. JAMES'S Park. 14/ 

(Duke of Sutherland) contains hundreds of paint- 
ings. Bridgewater House (Lord EUesmere) has 
art-collections, including several Raphaels. St, 
James's Park, S. of the Palace, was created by- 
Henry VIII. and Charles II., and has a lake in its 
centre, the Birdcage Walk and Wellington Bar- 
racks on the S, , the Mall on the N. , and on the 
W. , near the Turkish cannon and Marshal Soult's 
mortar, the Foot Guards parade at 10 A. M. 
daily. At the W. end is Buckingham Palace, 
bought in 1761 by George III. of the Duke of Buck- 
ingham, now the town-residence of the King. It 
is a quadrangle, with Throne Room, Grand Saloon, 
and other halls, and a Picture Gallery, containing 
hundreds of old paintings. In the rear are large 
gardens. 

B-egent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon- 
don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, and 
lead^ from Pall Mall to Oxford-St. 

Picoadilly, a Paris-like street, runs from Hay- 
market to Hyde Park (1 M.), by Geological Museum 
(10-5, on member's Introduction); St. James's 
Ch., built by "Wren; the houses of the Royal, Geo- 
logical, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical 
Societies; the Boyal Academy of Arts (many rare 
paintings); London University, with statues; Dev- 
onshire House, famous in art; and other palaces 
of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of 
Piccadilly. In The Albany dwelt Byron, Bulwer, 
Monk Lewis, and Macaulay. 

Oxford-St. li M. from HoTborn to Hyde Park, 
passes Bloomsbury, Russell, Cavendish, Hanover 
and Bedford Sqs., with their displays of statuary, 
and crosses Regent-St. and New Bond-St. , famous 
for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily^ 
free, from 10 A. m, till dusk) is near New Oxford- 



148 ENGLAND. 

St., and contains one of the grandest collections in 
the world. Here are the Elgin Marbles, from the 
Athenian Parthenon; hundreds of Greek and 
Eoman sculptures, and statuary; reliefs from Baby- 
Ion, Mneveh, and Nimroud; 6 rooms full of Egyp- 
tian antiquities, MSS., jewels, statues, etc. ; hun- 
dreds of Greek, Etruscan, and Eoman bronzes; 
antiquities of the flint, Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and 
mediseval ages in England. The Reading Room (open 
only to students, apply in writing to librarian) is a 
circular hail in the centre of the quadrangle, with a 
dome of glass and iron ; the Library contains 1.000,- 
000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling 
Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds, Hogarth, etc. 
Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sundays. 

Regent's Park (473 acres), a biuof open coun- 
try in a densely populated region, is 1^ M. N. W. 
of Trafalgar Sq. , and contains the famous Zoologi- 
cal Gardens, with numbers of birds and beasts, 
(open daily, 9 a. m. till dark, Is.; Mon., 6d. Best 
time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Botanical Gar- 
dens. Priinrose Hill lies N. ; and Lord's Cricket 
Ground is W. 2-3 M. W. is Kensal-Green Cemetery^ 
where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney 
Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mul- 
ready, Mathews the actor, Leech the cartoonist, 
Gibson the sculptor, Cardinal Wiseman, etc. 

Hyde Park (390 acres) was laid out by Henry 
VIII. At the N. E. gate is the Marble Arch ; at the 
S.E., Hyde Park Corner, is another portal, opposite 
which stands a tall arch, which formerly bore a 
statue of Wellington. Rotten Roiv runs thence 
to Kensington Gate (1^ M.), and is a riding-course. 
The Drive, alongside, is tilled with equipages. 
The terpentine va an artificial pond, with pleasure- 
boa' «, Remarkable lawns and trees are seen on all 



ENGLAND. 149 

sides. Kensington Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on the 
W., and lead to Kensington Palace, a grim brick 
structure, built by William III., and the birth-place 
of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne 
and her consort, and George II. died here. Farther 
W. is Holland Jlouse, a Tudor palace built in 1607, 
and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn, 
Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and 
Macaulay. S. of the Gardens stands the Albert Memo- 
rial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered 
with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy, under 
which is a colossal statue of Albert. Across the road 
is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert 
Hall, overarched with glass, holding 8,000 people, 
and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipes. The 
Natural History Museum faces Cromwell - Road; 
contains geological, mineralogical, botanical, and zoo- 
logical collections — formerly British Museum (open 
10-5, Sun. 2-5). 

The South Kensington Museum (free, Mon., 
Tues., Sat., 10-10 ; 6d.,Wed., Thurs., Fri., 10 a.m. till 
dark ; Sun. , 2-5; restaurant and lavatories in building) 
is one of the richest in the world (^ hr. from Charing 
Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has re- 
ceived many generous bequests, besides $5,000,000 
from Government. The first court is crowded with ar- 
chitectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court 
is surrounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most 
famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton's famous frescos, 
and contains many exquisite objects of art. The iV. 
Court is devoted to Italian-Renaissance sculptures, al- 
tars, tabernacles, etc., and costly tapestries, terra-cotta 
work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instruments. 
The Cloisters contain ancient and Oriental furniture, 
Persian tiles, carpets, and metal-work. The National 
QalUry of British Art is exceedingly interest- 



150 CHELSEA. — ON THE THAMES. 

ing, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, man^ 
hundreds of choice paintings by Turner, Reynolds'', 
Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc.; water-colors in great 
variety ; and the Eorster collection of autographs and 
MSS. The Prince Consort Gallery contains mediaeval 
works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, 
and ivory. The Keramic Gallery has Palissy, Majolica, 
Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and other wares, 
in great variety. The Patent- Office Museum adjoins this 
building. 

Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia 
and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets, 
inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted 
mainly for its Hospital for old soldiers, built by Wren. 

Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steamers 
ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at West» 
mmster, Charing Cross, Blackfriars, St. Paul's, etc. 
(fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge, 
whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3-4;d.), 
Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St. 
Catherine's Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs, 
the Surrey, Commercial, and W. India Docks. Below 
Greenwich the river is dull. The journey 

Up the Thames gives line view of St. Paul's on the 
r.; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars, the 
Times newspaper offices. Thence to Waterloo Bridge, 
you have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the 
Adelphi Terrace; the Obelisk^ on the r.; and passing the 
bridges to Charing-Cross stat. and Whitehall Stairs, 
you come to Westminster Bridge. On the L are St. 
Thomas's Hospital and Lambeth Palace; on the r., the 
Houses of ParUament and Westminster Abbey. Gel 
Bickens's Dictionary of the Thames (Is,) 



ENGLAND. 151 



Excursions in Southern England. 

Windsor {Castle Inn; White Hart), 22 M. from 
London, may be reached by Gr. W. or S. W. Railway 
(return fares, 5s. 6d., 4s. 3d.). The superb state 
apartments are open Mon., Tues., Thurs., Fri., Sat., 
on presentation of tickets (adults Is., children 6d ); 
when the King is at home, they are not shown. (Buy 
Companion through the State Apartments, Id.) The cas- 
tle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from 
afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence. 
Edward III. was born in Windsor ; and Geoffrey Chaucer, 
the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are 
at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George 
IF's Gateway/, in the S. front, opposite the Long 
Walk, a iine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Visitors' en- 
trance, Henry YIII.'s gateway. From the Round 
Tower (open 11-4) 13 counties may be seen. See 
Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dycks and Rubenses ; Chapel 
Royal 8t. George's (open 12-4, free), one of the finest 
Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with choir 
hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia 
of the Knights of the Garter ; Albert Chapel, formerly 
Wolsey's Chapel, built by Henry VII. and reopened in 
1875, superb mosaics, reredos, and cenotaph (open 
Wed., Thurs., Fri., and Sat.). Fine view from the 
Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia 
^Vater {Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 1,800 acres 
in the Great Park. Eton College is \ M. from 
Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very 
handsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the 
fine library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here. 
The college was founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis, 
the scene of Gray's Elegy, and the burial-place of the 



152 HAMPTON COUET. — RICHMOND, 

poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray in 
Stoke Park. 

Hampton Court {Kings Arms; Mitre; Grey* 
hound), rly. in | hr. (13 M.), or Thames (24 M.), has 
an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded bj 
Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and 
presented to Henry YIII,, who coveted it. Here also 
was a favorite residence of both Charles I, and Crom- 
well. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown. 
(State-apartments open daily, except Fri., 10-6, March 
— Oct. ; on Sun. , 2-6. ) See the Presence Chamber. 
Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the great 
Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a 
timber roof. Purchase the Stranger^s Guide (6d.), 
which gives full accounts. 

Kew Royal Botanical Gardens (South Western 
Rly. ; fares. Is. 9d., Is. 4d., Is. 2d. ; time, f hr.) 
contain the plants and flowers of all countrieSo (Buy 
hand-book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is 

Richmond {Star and Garter, famous for cuisine, 
wines, and high bills), where Edward I. founded a 
palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Pine view from 
Richmond Hill. The Park (2,255 acres) belongs to the 
Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and 
Edmund Kean are buried in the ch. The King, when 
Prince of Wales, sometimes lived at the White 
Lodge. Park stocked with deer. The footpaths on 
either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham 
see Orleans House, the former residence of Louis Phi- 
lippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried ; and Strawberry 
Mill, Horace Walpole's villa. ^ 

The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Sydenham, 
was erected 1853-4, at a cost of $7,500,000.^ Do not 
fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every 
iiay except Sat., when admission is 2s. 6d.), 8s., 2s. 3d., 



ENGLAND. 15^ 

Is. W^. You call go from London Bridge, Victoria^ 
Kensihgton, Holborn, or Ludgate Hili stats. The 
Aquatiuixi, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural 
Courts, ih& Picture Gallery, are worth inspection^ 
Gardens Vbry Ant; fireworks on summer evenings^ 
Good restaurants attached. (Guide-books, Id., 3d.,r 
Is.). The centrjil Lall :s 1,608 ft. long, crossed by 
transepts. 

The Alexandra Pa!ac^ and P?.rfe are 6 M. N. of 
London; i hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, Is. It 
is rectangular, with corner towers, eovetiS 7| acres ;: 
and the grounds cover 480 acres. Cee mu?ic hall 
(seating 12,000), with large organ. 

Rly. from Alexandra to Highgate (2x1.), in whose- 
picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. ^oieridgev 
Lor5. Lindhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk 
to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy highland 
park, once famous for its highwaymen, and aow 
visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hamp- 
etead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie and 
Constable, the painter, are buried. 

Dulwich, i hr. by rly. from Victoria station (operL 
daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for King Stan*, 
islaus of Poland, but given to God's Gift College 
Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Ruben?^ 
Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs^ 
Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

Greenwich Hospital (6M. from Charing Crosr^p- 
fares. Is., 9d., 6d.; time i h. Or by steamer in 1 hr. 
from London Bridge; fares, 6d., 4d.), formerly for 
disabled seamen of the Royal Navy, on site of palaofr 
where Henry VIII. was bom, where he married Amt^ 
Boleyn, and where Edward VI. died. Now occupied 
by the Royal Naval College. The Fainted Hall h 
open daily at 10 and on Sundays at 2. The Museun'.- 
of Naval Architecture and the Chapel are open daily»,. 
except on Fri. and Sun., from 10 till dark. 



154 ST. ALBANS- PUTNEY.- MARGATE. 

Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old 
elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little 
liill stands the Royal Observatory, built in 1675. 

Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11^ M. (f hr.) from Lon- 
don. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, whence 
grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second 
leading public school in the kingdom (founded 1571). 
In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert 
Peel, Shei'idan, Palmerston, and others are carved 
-on the panels. See the Chapel and the School 
Library. 

St. Albans, 21 M. out (^ - 1 hr.), has a noble Nor- 
man Abbey G h. , founded by Oft'a II. , King of Mercia, 
in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a cathedral in 1877. 
It is 425 ft, long, and has a massive tower (whence 
fine view) ; the shrine of St. Alban, the protomartyr 
of England (a. d. 324); and quaint old chantries 
and stained windows. 2 battles occurred here in 
the Wars of the Roses. In St. llichaeVs Ch. Bacon 
is buried. See Roman walls, Gatehouse, and Clock 
Toiver. 

Putney {Star and Carter) is quickly reached by 
steamboat or by rly. Gibbon was born, and Pitt died 
here. At Chiswick Fox and Canning died, and Ho- 
garth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a 
fine old palace and park of the Bishops of London, 
liovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is Wim- 
iledon, with famous rifle-ranges. Norwich, 126|^ M. 
from London (fares, 21s., 16s., 10s. lOd.) has many 
quaint old buildings and chs., a lofty castle, and a 
splendid Norman cathedral (founded in 1096). Col- 
chester and Ipswich, with their fine relics of mediae- 
valisra, may be visited on the way to Harwich. 

Margate {Cliftonville Hotel; White Hart; York), 
72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in sum- 
mer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : Si. John's, 
Trinity, St. Paul's. Ramsgate, 4i M. S., is rather 



ENGLAND. I55. 

more aristocratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing 
good. Fine pier, commenced in 1750. Eastbourne 
{Burlington Hotel; Anchor; Albion), 65 M. from 
London (express, 16s., 13s., 9s. 6d., 5s.), is a favorite 
watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea. 

Hastings (^wm^'s, very large; Albion; Grand; 
Marine) is 76 M. froin London (return fares, 25s., 20s.) 
"St. Leonard 's-on-Sea " the Belgravia of Hastings (^4?- 
exandra; Royal Victoria; Royal Saxon)\st\\e. prettiest 
watering-phice in Sussex. Fine beach, and a pleasant 
esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the 
sea for 2 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of 
the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft, 
long). Pa,vilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading- 
rooms, here. Excursions should be made to Battle 
Abbey, 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At 
Battle {Raihvay Hotel ; George), battle of Hastings 
was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are 
open Tuesday, 12-4. 

Brighton.— It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach 
(tri- weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from the Wliite Horse 
Cellar, in Piccadilly, to Old Ship Hotel, Brighton. 
Ely. , li hr. ; return fares, 17s 6d., I2s.6d. Principal 
hotels on sea-front: Grand, Bedford, Norfolk^ 
Royal, Crescent, Albion, Old Ship, MarkwelVs, 
Queen's, Albemarle, Bristol. Many boarding-houses. 
Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is 
the fine sea-front of 3 M. long. The Brighton 
Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. On 
the E. part of the Promenade was the Chain Pier, 
now destroyed. The W. Pier is opposite Kegency- 
Square. Music on the piers. The Royal Pavilion^ 
begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now owned 
by the town, and used for public balls, etc. Lib?'ary 
and Picture Gallery here. Near are South Dov/ns, 
55 M. in length, with a breadth of 4+ M. Tun- 
bridge Wells {Calverly Hotel; Mt, Ephraim), is 



156 SOUTHAMPTON.-WINCHESTER. 

a j)opular inland watering-place, with, chalybeate 
springs. Bayham Abbey ruins near by. A pleasant 
excursion may be made along the South Coast from 
Brighton to Portsmouth (George Hotel; Bedford; 
Sussex), very important naval station. See the 
Dockyards (open 10-13, 1-3); order from Admiralty 
obligatory for foreigners. Off the Dockyard lies the 
Victory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died, 
Southsea {Queen'' s; Esplanade) is a fashionable 
watering-place near by. Seethe Common, the Pier^ the 
Esplanade, From Portsmouth passengers may em- 
bark for the Isle of Wight. Portsmouth is 72 miles 
from London (fares, 15s. 6d., 10s. lOd., 6s. 2d.). 

Southampton {South Western Hotel; DolyMn; 
Royal), an important steamship station, 78f M. from 
Xiondon (fares, 15s. 6d., lis., 6s. 6d.). Boats for the 
Channel Islcmds, Harwich, the Isle of Wight, 
America and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King 
John's Palace, one of the oldest houses in England. 
Excursion to lovely Netley Abbey, 3 M. (open Mon., 
Tues., Wed., Fri., and Sat.). You may next go to 
Salisbury {White Hart Hotel; Bed Lion; Three 
Swans; Angel), which contains a noble Cathedral, 
among the very first in England. It was founded in 
1220, and was the first great English church in the 
Pointed Style. Exquisite spire, the highest in Eng- 
land (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter-House, and Nave 
very noticeable. Sculptures in Chapter-House from 
Old Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert 
in the market-place. See Blaclcmore Museum, Ex- 
cursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of a 
Druidic sanctuary ; Wilton House (3 M.), with fine 
paintings; and Longford Castle. 

"Winchester {Oeorge Hotel; Royal; Black Swan) 
is one ot the great historical cities of England. The 
Cathedral (1079-1148), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is 
the principal attraction. Architecture of Nave very 



ENGLAND. 157" 

curious. See Mural Monuments, Font, and Chantry. 
lu the Central Ladi/ Chapel Queen Mary was married 
to Philip of Spam, m 155^. See Castle, and make ex- 
cursion to Hospital of St. Cross ; admission, 6d. Tares 
to London, 66| M., 13s. lOd., 9s. 9d., 5s. 6d. 

Tlie Isle of Wight may be reached from South- 
ampton by steamers to Cowes (in f hr.), or to Ryde, 
Trains run between Ryde and Ventnor, with branch to 
Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isle is 
22^ M. long, and 14 M.*^ broad. Ventnor and the 
Under Cliff are recommended to invalids. In summer 
secure rooms in advance. Ryde {Eagleinn; Esplanade; 
Pier} has a fine pier, a school of art, and a museum. 
It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. 
On the route is Sandown {Sandow7i House); Ocean; 
Bay) , a fashionable resort. Sands and bathing good. 
Shanklin (Daish's Hotel; Hollier's) is a picturesque 
village. The Cliine, near by, is a romantic ravine. 
Bonchurch, 11 M. from Ryde, is very beautiful ; John 
Sterling is buried here. Ventnor {Royal; Marine; 
Queen's; Esplaiiade; Crah and Lohster) is much fre- 
quented. Fares from London to Ventnor, 21s. 2d., 
15s. Id., lis. Return tickets (good for 8 days), 35s. 
9d., 26s. 6d., 19s. 9d. Near by are Norris Castle 
and Osborne House, presented by the King to the 
nation for a convalescent home. Newport is 1 M. 
from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand historic ruin. 

Bath {Grand Pump Room, Hotel; YorJc; Christopher} 
tias the most sumptuously appointed warm baths in 
Europe. It is a city of 52,000 inhab., on the Avon, and 
»nce famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene 
of Miss Austen's novels. See the stately Abbey Ch. 
<1499) ; Beckford's^ Tower and tomb ; the Guildhall ; 
and many fine residences and parks. Excursions to 
Prior Park, Lansdown Hill, Hampton Boion, and the 
ruins of Hinton Abbey, From Bath it is 11^ M. to 



1 5 8 BRISTOL. — CARDIFF. — WELLS 

Bristol {Ro?/al Hotel; Grand; George), the capital of 
the W. of England, and a very ancient city. It is on 
the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the 
river's mouth. See St. Mary RedcUfe Ch., very 
lovely ; the Cathedral (1140), with tonibs of Bishop 
Butler and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter- 
house ; College Gate; the Mayor's Ghajiel (1220); Bris- 
tol Mnp,eum; Glifton, a beautiful suburb; the Suspen- 
sion Ghain Bridge (get the views); Nightingale Val. 
ley; and Zoological Gardens. Excursions to Blaise 
Gastle; and George Muller's Orphan Asylum (2050 
children) at AsMey station. 

From Bristol you may cross the Bristol Channel to 
Cardiff {Uoyal Hotel ; Parle; Angel), a very important 
Welsh port. See Bute Docks; the Castle; and Sophia 
Park. i]xcarsious to Caerphilly Castle; Llanda^ 
(with grand old Catliedral) ; Llanwit; and St. Domfs. 
Frorn Cardiif you can make an excursion through S. 
Wales, and it will richly repay. Fares from Cardiif 
to London (170.^ M.), 35s. 6d., 25s. ; from Bristol to 
London (il8i M.), 26s. Id,, 18s. 8d. 

Devonshire is one of the most interesting parts of 
England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in 
4-5 hrs. (distance, 171| M. ; fares, 35s., 25s., 14s. 3id.). 
Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by Wells 
{Swan Hotel ; Star ; Mitre), which is a perfect eccle- 
siastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace, an em- 
battled Deanery, and a quaint Vicar s Close. The 
venerable Cathedral is very rich in sculptures, and in 
every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See 
local guides.) Glastonbury (^George Hotel ; Bed 
Lion) has a ruined Ahhey, one of the earliest centres 
of Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried 
here. The George Inn was a hostelry for pilgrims in 
Edward IV. 's time. This is the ancient Isle ofAvalon. 
Get Williamson'' s Guide, Is. See St. John's and St. 



ENGLAND. 159^ 

Beaedict's Chs. Exeter {Clarence Eotet'^^Mw Lon- 
don; Half-Moon) has grand Cathedral, built 1107- 
1206,with interesting cliapels, Minstrels' Gallery choir, 
close, and far-viewing tower ; the Castle, Norman 
ruins ; the Elizabethan Guidhall ; and Albert Museum. 
Plymouth {Duhe of Cornwall Hotel; Royal) is rich, 
in objects of interest. Seethe Hoe, St. Andrew'' s Ch., 
the New Guildhall, AthencBum, Raglan Barracks, the 
Devonport Column. The Bddystone Lighthouse is 
14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by steamer. Tor- 
quay {Imperial; Royal; Belgrave), is a famous water- ' 
ing-glace. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange 
landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch., and the Museum, 
Beautiful drives and walks. Fares to London (220 M.), 
40s. 2d. , 28s, 5d, , 16s. 5id. Get guides of Devon Coast 
and Cornwall. Penzance {Queen's Hotel) is 328 M. 
from London (fares, 63s. 6d., 44s. 6d., S6s. 6id.). 



Routes to the Continent. 

Quickest Routes.— F*o^ Dover and Calais ; 22 M. 
across Channel. To Paris, 283 M. (fares, £3, £2 5s.). 
Day service: leave London 8 a. m.; arrive at Paris 
4.30 p. M. Night service : leave London 8.05 p. m.: 
reach Paris 6 a. m. — Via Folkestoiie and Boidogne^ 
day tidal service : London to Paris, 255 M. ; Channel 
passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. (Fares, £2 16s., £2 2s.; time, 
8i hrs.) There is a cheap night service to Paris via 
Boulogne or Calais (fares, 2d class 31s. 6d., 3d class 
21s.). Return tickets, express route, via Dover and 
Calais, or Folkestone and Boulogne, £4 15s., £3 15s.; 
by night service, 47s., 31s. 6d. You will pass, by South 
Eastern, Chiseihurst, where Napoleon III. died, and 
where he and his son Louis are buried ; and by Chat- 
ham and Dover, you pass Rochester, which has an 
antique Norman Cathedral, with interesting chapels 



160 ROCHESTER.-CANTERBURY.-DOVER. 

and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with 
beautiful environs, including Dickens's old home, 
Cfad's Hill. Just beyond is Chatham, with import- 
ant dockyards. 

Canterbury {Fountain, County, Fleur-de-Lys). 
The ancient Mercery Lane leads to the famous Cathedral, 
built 1070-1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, 
monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beautiful an(^ 
lofty central tower. See St. Augustine's College for 
missionaries, in the ruins of the ancient abbey. Thomas "k 
Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black Prince 
is buried there. At Folkestone {Pavilion Hotel; 
Leas; MetropoU) the train stops near the steamers. 
JDover {Lord Warden Hotel; Dover Castle; King^s 
Head) is worth half a day's stay. The Castle was 
nearly destroyed by fire in 1897. The Piers and 
Shakespeare's Cliff {v. King Lear) deserve attention. 

Routes Longer and Less Esspensive. ^ Via 
Newhaven and Dieppe (day and night boats iu summer, 
tidal service). Fares, tickets good for 7 days, 33s., 
24s., 17s. Time, 12-13 hrs. Channel passage, 64 M. 
(5^-7 hrs.). — -Via Southampton and Havre: Mon., 
Wed., and Fri. (fares, 33s., 24s.). Boats leave South- 
ampton at 11.45 p.m. Chamiel and river passage tQ 
Havre, 8|-9 hxs.— From London Bridge, across the 
'Channel to Boulogne. — From Dover to Ostend, ^ for 
those going to Belgium. London to Ostend, 37s. 
5d., 26s. 7d. Channel passage, 68 M. (4 hrs.).— 
From London, via Harwich, to Rotterdam or Antwerp. 
Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 p. m. ; reach 
Rotterdam 9 a. m. Antwerp boat leaves at same 
time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. London to Ant- 
werp or Rotterdam, 26s., 21s., 15s. Eeturns, 40s., 
31s. 6d., 24s. Daily service. — From I-ohdon, via 
Queensborovgh, to Flushing dsdlj. 



NOETHERN FRANCE. 161' 

NORTHERN FRANCE. 

8pHE Ports of Entry in France at which you 
•*" may arrive from England are described below. 

Calais {Hotel Terminus ; Londres ; Sauvage) may 
be seen in 2-8 hrs. The Citadel (1560); the Po7ies 
Borate, du Havre, and de la Mer; the old bastion called 
Ls Courgain, are very curious. The English held Calais 
from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession. 
Mary Tudor said the name Calais would be found writ- 
ten om her heart. The Ch. of Notre Dame, with a pic- 
ture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, on the Place 
d' Amies ; the old Guet Tower; and the Hotel de Guise 
(Tudor style), built by Edward 111. and his successors, 
are the principal sights. The Hotel Dessin is mentioned in 
Sterne's Sentimental Journey. Good sea-bathing in sum- 
mer. Erora Calais you may go, via Lille, to Brussels. 

Boulogne (Hotel des Bains ; De la Marine ; Men- 
rice; Continental), |- hr. from Calais (fares, 5 fr. 30 c, 
3 fr. 95 c), is a picturesque town on the Liane, where 
it enters the Channel. It is a fashionable summer re- 
sort. Has many English residents. The Quais; the 
P^e/V the old fishers' town; the ancient Por^e des 
Dunes, with a statue dated 1231; the clumsy Cathedral 
of Notre Dame ; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na- 
poleon was confined in 1840 ; the Hotel de Ville ; and 
the great Sea-Bathing Establishment, merit notice. 
Le Sage, author of Gil Bias, and Godfrey de Eouillon 
were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande 
Armee, built 1804-41. Here Napoleon I. assembled 
an immense army and fleet for invading England* 

Dieppe {Royals Grand, du Rhin, de Paris, Com- 
11 J 



:6S HAVRE. 

merce) le a surampr resort of the fashionable world. 
See the Casino, on the beach ; the great Castle (1433); 
the ancient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron saint of fisher- 
men ; the piers ; and the Statue of Duquesne. The' 
bathing is fairly good, A red flag is hoisted when 
the tide is favorable. Ruined castle of Arcques^ 
4 M, S. E, Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe. 

Havre {Hotel Frascati ; Be Bordeaux; Aigle 
d/Or; Be Normandie; B'Angleterre), once , known 
as Hawe de Grace, from a chapel founded by 
Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important sea- 
ports ill Europe, About 100,000 inhab. Immense 
American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The 
Jetee du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill 
of Ste. Adresse the outlook is charming. The prin- 
cipal things to see are : The Ch. of Notre Dame (1575); 
the Botel de Ville ; the Palais de Justice ; the Grand 
Treatre ; the Oustows Barracks; and the Museum (open 
SuR., Tues., and T'hurs., from 10 to 4). Bronze 
statues (by David) of Bernard] n de St. Pierre and 
Casimir de la Vigne, natives of Havre. Tlie Jardin 
Publiqae is prett3^ Rue de Paris is the finest street. 
Steamers weekly to New York. (See Chapter on 
Travel.) Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the 
coast (1 hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer 
{Hotel des Roches Noires, with bathing ; Be Paris ; 
jy Angleterrej ^e^^e-ywe), with its fine Casino (admission, 
2 fr.) and beautiful beach. Great number of villas 
here and at Beauville. Aristocratic resort in Aug. and 
Sept. Near Tron ville is a chapel in which William the 
Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer 
England' 1 hr. by rail from Trouville is Honflenr. 
Etretat, inuch frequented by painters, and Fecamp, a 
great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may be vis- 
ited from Havre. Eares from Havre to Paris, 28 fr. 
10 c, 21 fr. 5 c., 15 fr. 45 c. You may go from Havre to 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 16S 

Kouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow 
(fares, 5 fr. , 4 fr.). 

Rouen {Hotel d'Angleterre; de France; d* Albion; 
J)e la Paste; Paris; Lisieux) can be visited on the way 
to Paris from Havre or Dieppe : the commercial rival 
of Havre, a port of much importance; historically and 
arcliitecturally one of the most attractive places in 
France. This ancient capital of Nornmudj has great 
cotton factories and wine depots. (105,000 inliab.) Tlie 
Cathedral of Notre Dame is a magnificent Gothic edi- 
fice, bnilt 1207-80. The central portal on the W. 
was erected by Cardinal d'Amboise, the favorite of 
Louis XII., about 1510. Profuse decorations in fiorid 
style. Tlie Btetter Tower {Tour de Beurre) was built 
with money got from the sale of indulgences to eat 
butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, unfinished, like its 
twin. The central spire was destroyed by lightning iu 
1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465 
ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The fapade (16th 
century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of 
sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Romain is a 
charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir ; the 25 
chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, especially the 
rose windoivs in the nave and transepts ; the chapel S. 
of the nave, which contains the tomb of Rollo, the 
first Duke of Normandy (927) ; and the chapel oppo- 
site, ni which William of the Long Sword (d. 943) is 
buried. In the Ghapelle du Christ, near the High 
Altar, is a mutilated hmestone figure, 7 ft. high, of 
Richard Cceur de Lion. The heart of the great kinff 
is buried in the Choir. Henry IL of England is buried 
here. The monument to Due de Breze, erected by 
his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II, 
Also one to Cardinal d'Amboise is in this chapel The 
cathedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre. 



1 64 KOUEN. 

and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, heiglit ot 
jiave 89^ ft., 130 windows. 

The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest 
Gothic structures in Europe. It is cruciform, and dates 
from 1318. The portal, between two pyramidal towers, 
is extremely graceful. Central Tower, " the Crown of 
Normandy," 285 ft. high. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83 
ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows; 145 stained-glass 
windows. This ch. suffered much from the Iconoclasts 
(in 1562), as also did the bas-reliefs over the entrance 
of the great cathedral. The CL of St. Ma clou (15th- 
16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a foun- 
tain by Jean Goujon. Other clis.: St. Patricia (1535), 
magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paint- 
ings by Mignard and Poussin ; *S'/. Godard, fine mural 
paintings ; St. Gervais, with a crypt of the 4th century. 
St. Viticen.t and St. Romain also merit a visit. The 
Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Botel de Ville, 
which is a renniant of the old Abljey of St. Ouen, should 
be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of tlie 
Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Napoleon I. 
Interesting statues of Corneille, Jeanne d'Arc, and Geri- 
cault. Palace of Justice {concierge shows it, If.) is 
a veritable Gothic chef-d'auvre. The room in which the 
Jissizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was 
there that the Parliament of Normandy held '^s sessions. 
On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493 
as a merchants' exchange. Tt is now the place where 
lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Mmeum 
now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, 
Gericault, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated 
artists. Yisit the Rue de la Grosse Borloge, one of the 
most interesting streets in the city. The old clock- 
tower, witli a gate beneath, dates from 1527. 

The most interesting section of Rouen is the Place de 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 165 

la Pucelle, where a fountain marks the place on which 
Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The 
15th-century Hotel du Bourgtheroulde fronts on this 
square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas- 
reliefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of 
Gold, In the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is a Tov)er (built 
1205), subsequently named after the maid, and sup- 
posed to have been her prison. The Museum of An- 
tiquities and the Museum, of Natural History are in an 
old convent near the Place Beauvoisine. The town 
is rich in old houses with timber-fronts. 

The Seine here is a large river, navigable for most 
ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Coiirs Bo'iel' 
dieu has a statue of Boieldieu, the composer, a native 
of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned 
with a Statue of Coniei/Ie ; and by a suspension bridge, 
at whose end is a Monument to the A/jlje de la Salle. 

The surrounding country is extremely beautiful. 
Climb the adjacent hills, especially to the Pilgrimage 
Ch. of Bon-Secom-s, 2 M. out Delightful view over 
Normandy. The service in the ch, is peculiar. Many 
])retty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Visit 
the Chateau of Robert le Liable, near La Bouille. 
From Rouen to Paris the fares are 16 fr. 75 c, 12| fr., 
9 fr. 20 c. Rouen may be easily visited in a day from 
Paris (fares, 16f fr., 12^ fr., 9 fr. 20 c), returning in the 
afternoon. At Mantes — called " beautiful Mantes " — 
is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 12th century, 
richly sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cher" 
bourg. Farther on is Poissy, the birthplace of St. 
Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort 
of artists (great prison here) ; the Forest of St. Germain^ . 
through which the line passes ; Golombes ; St. Germain, 
with its palace, may be seen on the r, ; and Asnieres^ a 
Parisian suburb, inhabited by commercial people. 



166 AMIENS. — ABBEVILLE. — ABRAS. 

Amiens {Hotel de I' Univers / Du BMn) is a great 
manufacturing town (80,000 inhab.), once the capital 
of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral, erected 1220-88, 
and one of the finest in Europe, The spire (422 ft. 
kigh) was restored in 1529. The W. fajade is one of 
the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers 
are decorated with many statues and medalHons. In 
the Forche du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ, 
commonly called Le Beau Dieu d" Amiens. Few cathe- 
dral interiors excite such lively admiration for pro- 
digious vaults, lightness of the columns, and astonishing 
variety of lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 
columns support its airy vaulting. See organ gallery 
(1422); 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 figures; 
superb rose-window; stained-glass windows; and the 
great number of monuments and chapels. The choir- 
wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John 
the Baptist and the Hfe of St. Eirmin. Length of the 
cathedral, 469 ft.; of transept, 213 ft. ; width of nave, 
144 ft. ; towers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a 
statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who 
preached the First Crusade. The Ficardy Musewu con- 
tains interesting pictures. The new Palace of Justice, 
and the Prefecture, which has a 15th-century bell-tower, 
should be seen. About midway between Amiens and 
Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15tb. 
and 16th century houses ; also the Ch. of St. Vulfran, and 
a statue to the composer Lesueur. Pares from Amiens 
to Paris, 16 fr. 10 c, 12 fr. 10 c, 8 fr. 85 c. Ely. connec- 
tion from Amiens with Arras, Douai, and Lille. 

Arras {Hotel de V Univers ; Govijnerce) has a double 
line of fortifications ; a citadel constructed by Vauban 
in 1670; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the 
Abbey of St. Vaast. Within it are seen fine pictures 
attributed to Rubens and Van Dyck; and the treasury 



NORTHERN FRANCE. 167 

eontaius the robe that Thomas a Becket wore when he 
was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine 
illustration of the pictorial style which prevailed during 
the Spanish domination. Museum and Public Library. 
The coast line of N. France is dotted with pleasant 
summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new. 
From Paris to Cherbourg (fares, 45 fr. 70 c, 34 fr. 25 c, 
25 fr, 10 c.)* via Caen, is a journey through the inter- 
esting Norman towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th 
century, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral, 
1136-1333, in which Henri 11. was married, 1152) ; 
and Caen {Hotel d' Angleterre ; If 'Espagne') , population 
41,181, the town of which Madame de Sevigne said 
that it was tlie source " de toiis nos plus beaux esprits." 
View from the heights very imposing. See St. Btienne 
aiul Trlnite Chs. ; the Chateau, founded by William 
the Conqueror; the Hotel de Ville, decorated with 
medallions of celebrated Normans ; the Museum (400 
paintings) ; the Academij ; the Hotel de Valois ; and 
the Place de la Repuhlique. You can reach Caen 
from Havre by steamer (6 f r , 5 fr.), and go thence 
to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if de- 
sired. Cherbourg {Hotel des Bains ; Be I'AmirautS 
et de I' Europe), a city of 37,000 inhab., on the peninsula 
of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a 
very important fortress. There is little to see beside 
the docks and fortifications ; and, in the Museum., a 
portrait 4!)f Leonardo da Vinci, painted by himself. 
Fine casino. Granville, farther down on the coast, is 
the port whence the steamers sail for the Channel 
Islands. Fares from Paris to Granville, 46 fr. 40 c, 
36 fr. 30 c, 23 fr, 20 c. Still farther down is Mt. Saint 
Michel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around 
and neai-ly 200 ft. 'high, connected with the coast by a 
dike. The sea surrounds it i '" high tide. The rock is 



168 PARIS. 

Burmouiited by immense fortifications, an abhey, and t, 
ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pilgrimages have 
been made here since Louis XI. created St. Michael's 
Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birth- 
place of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the 
pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with 
old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of 
Enghsh people winter here. Dinard, 4'M. from St. 
Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest 
is close by. Brest, population 66,000, is a military 
port and fortress. Vast marine hospital, and barracks, 
formidable batteries. Eares, Brest to Paris, 75 fr. 10 c, 
56 fr. 35 c, 41 fr. 35 c. On the way see Chartres 
{Hotel de France; Du Grand Monarque), an ancient 
city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which 
can be seen for 25 M. Upon this noble Gothic ch., 
•which was 160 years in building, there are many thou- 
sands of statues ; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, 
and marvellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th 
centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. in 
1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high. 
There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Grypi 
is beautiful. Many odd 13th-century houses here. 
Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The Mtiseunk 
contains a noted picture representing his funeral. 

Paris. 

Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a 
very easy city in which to find one's way about. In 
summer street-merchants are always at your elbow 
with very good maps, with which you can explore the 
capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at 
the Gare du Nord (N. Uly. stat.), and are not encum- 
bered with baggage, walk down^the Rue de Lafayette 



PARIS. 169^ 

to the Grand Opera and the Boulevard Haussmann / 
then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boulevards^.. 
and you will find yourself in the centre of Paris. 
If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive at" 
the 'Gave St. Lazare, but a short walk from the boule- 
vards. In the Stat, your baggage is examined botk 
for general customs and octroi duties. Spirits andl 
cigars are the only things about which the officers- 
are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valises, 
call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card with- 
the cab's number on it, and for this expects about 
50 c. (lOcts.). If you have a party, and several large 
trunks, charter a small private omnibus (alv>^aysi 
plenty). One that will hold 6 persons costs 6 f r. , and 
no extra charge is made for a reasonable amount of- 
baggage. Driver expects fee. 

Cabs {Voitures). — The cab system of Paris is simple an# 
convenient. From 6 a.m. until 12.30 p.m. a 1 -horse open or 
closed public carriage for 2 persons costs, according to legally^ 
established tariff, IJ fr. for single drive; gratuity {pour- 
boire), rendered obligatory by custom, 25 c. ; by the hr., 2 fr. ^ 
fourhoire, 30 c. Each carriage is numbered on the lamps^. 
and the driver is bound to give you a printed ticket, witls^ 
the number and tariff on it. Cabs for 4 pei-sons cost 2 fr, per 
drive, and 2^ fr. per hr. If you go outside the fortifications^ 
you must make special arrangement for time you are outside.. 
From 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariff is, for 2-seated cabs^. 
2\ fr. per drive, 2^ fr. per h r. ; 4 -seated, 2| fr. per drive, 2f fr. 
per hr. The whole of a first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) 
must always be paid ; \ hrs. thereafter, 50 c. each. Baggage 
(outside), 25 c. per pieci Livery-stable rates per day and^i 
per month for carnages aid rather high from May to Aug. j,, 
with a little care a good open carriage for 2 (driver in liveryp 
may be bad for 25-30 fr. per day ; gratuity to driver 



170 PARIS. 

Horse-cars (called tramivai/,^) run on most of the srreat 
ttorouglifares, except the grand boulevards. They are double. 
decked; the large ones are very fine. Go to the subuibs 
upon them rather than by rail or in private carriage. Om- 
nibuses abound ; there are 32 lines. A full fare paid on 
i«ne procures you a correspondance gratis on another, until 
jou hav^e reached your destination. Fares inside, 30 c. ; 
above, outside, 15 c. On some streets the tramway cars are 
moved by steam. On the Seine thei-e are a great many 
sninll stearaci-s. f\a]le(i rno/iejips and hiratnlelJes, " flies " and 
"swallovrs." The Metropolitan underground rly. is con- 
venient. The Ceinture is the name of the railway which 
runs around Paris, v\dthin the walls (23 M,). It is useful 
for giving a good idea of the capital's geography. Round 
trip in two hours. 

Hotels.— Hotel d?Ima, 28 Avenue d'lena, steam-heated? 
Ebtel Bitz, Hotel Bristol, Place Vendome, both expen- 
sive, aristocratic I Elysee Palace; Hotel Continental^ 
Rue de Rivoli and Ca.stiglione (this house is on a portion, 
of the site of the Ministry of Finance, burned during the 
Commune) ; Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli; Gh'and Hotel, 
Boulevard des Capucines; Terminus, G-are St. Lazare; 
Vendome, Place VendSme; Begina, Meurice, Windsor, 
Brighton, Rue de Rivoli; Grand Hotel St. James, de Lille 
■et d^ Albion, de Ndrmandie, Rue St. Honor6; Westminster^ 
Mirabeau, Splendide, Rue de la Paix; de Londres, DomU 
nici, Liverpool, Rue Castiglione; Chatham, de VEmpire, 
de VAmiraute, d^Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. Au- 
gustin) ; Normandy, des Deux Mondes, and Binda, in the 
Avenue de l'0p6ra; du Palais, Cours La Reine; d''Allbe, 
Avenue de I'Alma; de St. Petershourg, Rue Caumartin; 
de VAthenee, Rue Scribe ; de Bade, Boulevard des Ital* 
iens ; de la Terrasse Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre ; de 
Baviere, Rue du Conservatoire ; des Amhassadeurs, Rue 
de Lille ; de Londres, Rue Bonaparte ; du Senat, Rue do 
Tournon. More modest hotels are Hotel de Nice, Place de 
la Bourse; de la Tamise, Rued'Alger; de la Couronne, Rue 
S.U Dauphin; Trois Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs; 
d'Antin, Rue d'Antin: Helder, Ruedu Helderi Byron, Rue 



dinners at fixed prices may be Iiad. At the Diner de 
Paris, 13 Boulevard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 f r. ; dinner. 



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PARIS. 171 

Laflatte: Du Canada, Rue de Choiseul; De France^ Rue 
de Beaune ; Des Etrangers, Rue Racine. 

Boarding-Houses (or Petisions).— Of these there 
are ma,ny. Prices, 10-15 francs daily. We give the ad- 
dresses of a few, frequented chiefly by Americans: 
Madame Russell, 6 Square de I'Opera; M. and Mme. 
Pincet, Co Rue Cambon ; Mrs. Defone, 52Jns Boulevard 
Haussmann; Prof. Tonnst, same address; Mme, Starck, 
30 Rue Bassano ; Hotel Campbell, 61 Avenue de Fried- 
land ; American Pension, 7 Avenue du Trocadoro; the 
Misses McDonnell, 90 Rue de la Pompe; Hotel Dijon, 22 
Rue Caumartin. FurnisJied single rooms can be hud ia 
all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 125 francs per month. 
Furnished. suites of rooms (in French, apartemcnt signi- 
fies a suite) from .250 francs per month upwai'ds. Alvvays^ 
inquire particularly about extras, even in the best pen- 
sions, otherwise you may be surprised when the bill is 
presented. 

Kestaurants and Cafes.— Ca/e de Londres, Boulevard 
Madeleine, 25 ; Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens; 
Cafe Biehe, 16 same street ; 3Iaison Doree, 20 same street ; • 
Vidal, 41 Avenue de I'Opera; No'^l Peters, Passage des 
Princes; Brebant, 31 Boulevard Poissonnifere; de la Terrace, 
30 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle; BonvaleVs, Boulevard du, 
Temple ,• Cafe de la Paix, near the Grand Opera ; Maire, 
14 Boulevard St. Denis; Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de 
■ rOpera ; Moha, 44 and 46 Avenue Wagram ; Qaillon, Place 
Gaiilon; Restaurant de France, 9 Boulevard Poissonnifere ; 
Restaurant des Amhassadeurs, in the Champs Elysees; 
Champeaux, 13 Place de la Bourse ; Durand, 2 Place de la, 
Madeleine ; Magny, 3 Rue Muzet ; Foyot, 33 Rue de Tour- 
non; Restaurant de la Porte-Doree, Avenue Daumesnil, 
2T5; CampelVs, 370 Rue St.-Honore. These are all d la 
carte. Some of these places are rather expensive ; the 
others more moderate. In the Palais Royal and the 
Passage des Panoramas, and on the Boulevard Mont- 
martre, are severa,l restaurants where breakfasts and 
dinners at fixed prices may be had. At the Diner de 
Paris, 13 Boulevard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 fr. ; dinner. 



1^2 PARIS. 

.15 fr. Wine is always included in fixed-price dinners. 
The Diner EuropSen is very good : breakfast, 3 fr„ j 
dinner, 5 f r. In the Palais Royal there are numerous 
restaurants that give breakfast at 1 f r. 75 c. ; dinner, 
2 fr. 25 c. to 3 fr. 50 c. The Duml Restaurants, or 
Etablissements de Bouillon, are peculiar. There is 
but a limited choice of dishes, but everything is well 
prepared and moderately cheap. The Parisians break- 
fast 10.30-1, and dine 6-8. We cannot mention one- 
third of the principal cafes, but will recommend the 
Cafe Anglais, Torto7ii^ Grand, Americain, Helder, 
Madrid, RicJw, Varietes, De Paris, Napolitain. In the 
Bois, restaurants : Pamllon d' Armenonville, la Cascade, 
Madrid. Ladies may visit most of the cafes men* 
lioned above, except the Americain, in the evening. 

General Information. — The Ambassador of the 
United States is the Hon. Horace Porter, the Secre- 
±ary of Embassy is Mr. Henry Vignaud. The present 
Consul-General at Paris is Mr. John K. Gowdy. 
American church services: Rue de Berry, 31; Avenue 
de I'Alm, 19 (Episcopal). 

The Latin Quarter, S. of the Seine, has for centuries beea 
devoted to universities, colleges, and schools of all kinds. 
Many thousands of students reside there all the time. The 
Students' Ball, called the Closerie des Mas, or Bullier, is at 
t\itCarrefour de rObservatoire. 

There are three principal race meetings in Paris, in April, 
May, and September. The spectacle in the Bois de Boulogne 
when the Grand Prix (the principal summer race) is run, 
should not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr. 

We would suggest that you start from the Place de 
ia Concorde, walk up the Hue Royale to the Ch. of the 
Madeleine (Magdalen), and then follow the Ime of 
the grands boulevards to the Place de la Bastille. 
You may go on an omnibus-top for 3 sous, or in an open 
carriage for 1 fr. 75 c. ; but we say walk. Boulemrd 
means bulwark ; and these fine streets were called so 
fjecause they are on '■•- old fortifications. 



PARIS. 173 

Nowadays the term is loosely applied to any 
large new avenue. You pass up the boule- 
vards — Des Capucines (this is in mid -Paris; 
here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand 
Cafe, the Jockey Club, and the Eue Scribe) ; 
Des Italiens (brilliant with theatres and restaurants) ; 
Montmartre (splendid cafes and shops) ; Poissoni^re ; 
Boune-Nouvelle ; St. Denis (see the old city gates, 
very fine) ; St. Martin. ; Bu Temple ; Des Filles du Cal- 
mire ; Beaumarchais, — and you are at the Bastille, 
i. e. the square where the celebrated prison stood. 
Wliole length of this line of streets, 2| ]\L Return by 
the Rue St. Antoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past 
the Tuileries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence you 
started. The exterior boulevards run from near the 
Arc de Triomphe, at the Ternes, around to the quays 
of Bercy on the Seine, through La Villette and Belle- 
ville, the workmen's quarters. Tramways here. The 
Boulevards du Strasbourg, Sebastopol, Du Palais, and 
St. Michel form a continuous avenue from the Eastern 
Rly. stat. across the city to the Observatory. A walk 
from one end to the other is extremely interesting. 
A visit to one of the ''cabarets artistiques," which 
have recently sprung up in Montmartre, is well 
worth while. See description in "Paris-Parisien," 
2^\\ excellent guide to these and other noteworthy 
sights of Paris. 

The Isle de ta Cite on which Paris began, should 
have an early visit. Notre Dame, the cathedral of the 
Archbishop of Paris, was built in 1163-82, on the site 
of a 4th-century eh. It is 417 ft. long, 156 wide, and 
110 high. Twk iowers, 264 ft The fa9ade (13th 
century), with its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds 
of statuary ove** the portals, is very imposing. The 
carvings over ttie central entrance represent the Lasi 



174 NOTRE DAME. — PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 

Judgment. Entrance by the 1. portal. In the Kevc i 
tion, in 1793, the ch. was converted into a " Temi^a,' 
of Reason." During the Commune it was a militar; 
depot. Most of the sculptures were broken at tht 
time of the Hevolution. Choir completed, 12th cen- 
tury ; W. portion, in 13th. The interior, with its nav6 
and double aisles, is majestic. Many famous prelates 
are buried . in the choir-chapels. 75 pillars support 
the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in the transept. 
87 chapels. Fine pulpit, by VioUet-le-Duc, \n the nave. 
The Treasury (fee, \ fr.) may be inspected. The robb 
in which Archbishop Darboy was shot by the Com. 
manists is shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20 c.), 
go round to N. side of 1. front tower, and ring the bell. 
In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. Note the 
curiously carved figures of men and animals on the roof. 
The eifect of the flying buttresses below is very strik- 
ing. See Victor Hugo's Notre Dame de Paris, for an 
eloquent description of the cathedral. The view from 
tlie towers is the best in Paris. In a bright summer-day 
it is bewildering, from its very vastness. Just behind 
Notre Dame is the Morgue, or Dead House, \\i\\qyq you 
may view unclaimed bodies. It is open to the public. 
From the cathedral's top observe the new Hotel Dieu, 
an immense hospital ; the Fontaine Notre Dame, the 
Place du Parvis, and the Flower Market. The old Ho- 
tel Dieu (660) has been demohshed. 

While you are in the Cite, go to see the Palais de 
Justice (magnificent new additions) ; and the prison 
of the Conciergerie, where Marie Antoinette and so many 
other victims of the Revolution were imprisoned. 
The Palais de Justice is open daily, except Sundays ; 
and here most of the Courts of Justice may be visited 
(guide, 1-3 fr.). The Coiir d'Honneur is very fine. 
The great Salle des Pas-Perdus, 255 ft. long, is where 



PARIS. ■ 175 

mystery-plays "wei-e performed. See Hugo's Notre 
Dame. The Sainte Chapelle (open daily 12-4, except 
Men. and Pri.) is a nobly beautiful specimen of Gothic 
(1245-48). Note the magnificent stained glass filling 
the sides of the Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy, 
Ghost is celebrated here once a year. Opposite the' 
Palais de Justice is the Tribunal de Commerce,^ a beanti. 
ful Renaissance building, 1860-66 (open daily), Ob> 
serve the old Clock Tower of the Palais de Justice, one of" 
the few remnants of the original edifice. See the Place 
DaupUne, and the equestrian Statue of Henri IV. near 
by. Good view of the Louvre from the Tont Neuf, ] 
Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764- 
90), on high ground, on the spot wjiere Genevieve, the 
patron saint of Paris, was buried in 512. The Con- 
stituent Assembly made a Pantheon out of it ; and the 
Catholics never permanently regained their place of 
worship. Inscription on pediment: Aux grands hommes 
la patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.) ; ascend 
it for view. Interior decoration of dome, by Gros, fine. 
Portico of 22 Corinthian columns, 81 ft. high. Small 
fee for admission to crypts, where are the tombs of 
Voltaire, Rousseau,- Lannes, Bougainville, and other 
noted men, St.Etienne du Mont (1517) near the Panthe- 
on, has some matchless stained glass of the 16th cen- 
tury. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. Q er- 
main i' Anxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. From 
its belf rj the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew 
was sounded. Note the oval arches of the porch (1435) 
Pacade 15tli and 16tli centuries, Rich modern frescos 
and interesting chapels inside. St. Germain des Pre& 
is on Ptue Bonaparte ; built 1001-1163, as the ch. of a. 
powerful abbe-/. Inside are admirable and extensive 
frescos by the celebrated Plandrin ; ancient monu- 
ments 'n choir and nave. St. Eustaohe is near the 



176 THE MADELEINE. 

Hallet Centrales (1532-1637) ; Gothic, with Gret,mTi 
W. front. Interior beautifully decorated. Suft'ered 
much damage in the Commune, when it was used as a 
" Club." Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue 
St. Honore. Exterior plain, interior rich ; lamoas 
music. Here Napoleon I. planted his cannon, and 
blew^ the French Revolution into s])ace ; vide Carlyle. 
— Notre Dame de Lorette, Rue de Cliateaudun, is th»i 
ch. that Thiers was buried from. The Trinite, Place 
of same name; new (1867), very ekgant and lich. 
St. Vincent de Paul, Rue de Lafayette. — The brilliant, 
new Russian Ch., near the Pare de Monceaiix. Inter. 
esting service here. The Val de Grace, Rue St. Jacques, 
wonderfully decorated v/ith paintings by Mignard 
.St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly decorateir 
ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and statues of Sts. Petei 
and Paul. La Sor bonne, adjoining the great universit;y. 
contains the Tomb of Cardinal Richelieu. 

The Madeleine, ti , :iiost beautiful edifice in Parirfi^ 
is in the style of a Gieek temple, 330 ft. long, 130 wide, 
and 100 high, surrounded by Corinthian columns. In the 
colonuade'are niches containing figures of saints. Cou- 
ture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 190 X 
25, represents the Last Judgment. ' The bronze doors 
are subjects from the Old Testament. On G/and 
Altar, the Assumption, in white marble ; and painting 
of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Plower-market on 
each side of the ch., Tues. and Fri. Very fine music. 
Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard Malesherbes, contains 
many fine paintings. — The Chapelle Expiutoire, ^n.^ 
d'Aujou, is to the memory of Louis XVI. and his 
Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The 
new Ste. Ciotilde, Place Bellechasse, and St. Pierre 
de Montniartre, are worth seeing. Notre Dame d 
Bonnes NoiuxUes, on the summit of Montniartre, is t» 
new church and one of the largest in Paris. 



PARIS. 177 

The Palaces. — The best place from which to see 
the imposing front of the Louvre is the park before 
St. Germain. The Colonnade was constructed in 1685, 
on the E. fafade. The central portion of this front 
is known as the Pavilion Henri Quatre. See statues 
of Napoleon I.'s generals on the Rohan Pavilion. The 
interior courtyard is an architectural marvel. See 
the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the 
Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums, 
ijphich are among the richest and most remarkable in 
Europe, is through a door on the 1., coming from the 
Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through 
the Pavilion Denon, in the middle of the N. fapade of 
the building erected by Napoleon III. Collections 
open, free, daily, except Mon., in summer, 9-5 ; iu 
winter, 10-4. A few of the sculpture rooms and col- 
lections of antiquities are not opened until 1 p.m. 
Guides 2 fr. an hr., but the . c^atalogues will enable 
most visitors to find their ^."^j about. The Fenug 
of Milo, the Fettered Slaves o»* Michael Angelo, the 
Mona Lisa of Leonardo da. Vinci, and a noble group 
of the works of Raphael, Titian, and Veronese ar« 
the chief treasures. In one gallery there are 21 large 
pictures by Uubens. The Salon Carre contains the 
most striking works of art. There are 2,000 paintings 
in the Louvre. See the Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), 
with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chinese 
Museums should not be omitted. Tlie Palace of the 
Tuileries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for 
Catherine de Medicis, is now gone, the site being 
a garden. It was almost entirely destroyed during 
the Communal insurrection of 1871 The whole front 
was so utterly ruined tlmt restoration was considered 
©ut of the question. The Pavilion de Flore and the 
Gallery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with tha 



178 PALAIS DU LUXEMBOUEG. 

•Tuileries, Eine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux. 
The courtyard is the Place du Carrousel. It takes its 
name from a carousal, or ball, held there by Louis XIV. 
ill 1662, The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an 
imitation of the Arch of Severus at Rome, and was 
erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories 
of 1805-6. It was originally crowned with the horses 
taken from the portal of St. Mark's Ch. in Yenice, 
but these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Fran- 
cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when Trench Consul, lived 
there; and Louis XYIIL, Charles X., Louis Phi- 
lippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Read 
Carl^le's account of the attack on the Tuileries by a 
mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front is the Tuile- 
ries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, which extends to the 
Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful 
resort tiironged with people. Military music twice a 
week in summer. The Terrasse des Feuillants, on 
the N. side, is a pleasant promenade. 

The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20, 
and enlarged in 1804. It was once a royal habitation, 
a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the 
Directory and the Consulate, and is now the meet- 
ing-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and 
museum open daily (except Mon.), 10-4. The Little 
Luxembourg, supposed to have been built by Marie de 
Medicis, is near by. The collections v/ere (until 1875) 
next in importance to the Louvre, The Luxembourg- 
Museum was long the halting-place for pictures of dis* 
tinguished native artists. Galleries of paintings open 
daily (Mon. excepted), 9-5 in summer; Sun, and Eri., 
10-4, In the garden, where military music is played 
on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine 
fountain, and statues of celebrated frenchwomen. 

The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers. 



PARIS. 17^ 

It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal Eichelieu. The 
famous galleries, which now form such a charming 
promenade, and are filled with attractive shops, were 
built by Philippe-Egalite. The Theatre of the Comedie 
Frangaise is adjacent to the palace. It was destroyed ' 
by fire on March 8, 1900, but has been rebuilt. 

The "Palais de I'Elysde, having fapades on th.e\ 
Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Elysees, is at 
present the residence of the President of the Republic. 
It was built in 171S, and restored under Napoleon I. 
Fine old garden on the Champs-Ely sees side. The 
Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps Legislatif held 
its sessions under Napoleon III., was built for the 
Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle fronting 
on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight 
of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Hotel 
dela Presidence is near by. The Palais d' Or say was 
partly destroyed in May, 1871. 

The two Palaces of Fine Arts, the Grand 
Palais and the Petit Palais, occupy the triangle 
between the Champs Elysees and the Seine, where 
formerly was the Palais de V Industrie. This was 
used for the first international exhibition in Paris in 
1855, and since then until its demolition the annual , 
Salo7i was held there. Here also is the approach to 
the handsome Pont Alexandre III., the memorial 
stone' of which was laid by the Tsar Nicholas II., in 
1896. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pom- 
peien, built for Prince Napoleon after the one of 
Diomed at Pompeii. Admission 1-3 fr. 

The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the oli 
Hotel de Nesle, was completed in 1662. It is an odd 
structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures 
of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution 
it was a prison. The academy holds its sessions 
here. The annual meeting of the five departments 



180 BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 

combined is held iu Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fin§ 
libraries. The Mazarine Library (200,000 vols.) is 
open to the public 10-4 (except Sun.). 

The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in the Rue Bonaparte, 
is the seat of the School of the Fine Arts, founded in 
1648 (open daily, 10-4; fee, 1 fr.). On the railing 
which separates the court from the ilue Bonaparte are 
colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. Near the Inva- 
lides, in Rue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop's Palace. 

The quaint mediaeval Hotel de Cluny (founded 
abont 1500), Kue du Sommerard, contains about 4,000 
objects in marble, wood, stone, ivory enamels, terra- 
cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc. (catalogue at 
the door). The old Palais des Thermes, which fronts 
on the Boulevard St. Michel, was built by Constantius 
Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on 
record his predilection for spending part of his time in 
his " dear Lutetia " (open daily, 11-4.30). The Musee 
Municipal, at the Hotel Carnavalet, Rue Sevigne, can 
be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols., 
composed of works relative to the history of the city of 
Paris, is here. The interesting Artillery Museum is at 
the Hotel des Invalides (open Tues., Thurs., and Sun. 
in summer, 12-3). The Mint Museum., on the Quai 
Conti, may be visited Tues. and Fri. (12-3), by order. 

Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne 
is the chief park of the French capital, and comprises 
a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial 
lakes, just opposite the fortifications, and extending 
along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected 
■with the Champs Elysees by several magnificent ave- 
nues ; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de 
Boulogne, is 4,200 ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The 
drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion 
cf the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, and c5 



PARIS. 181 

strangers from all parts of the world in summer from 
6 to 8 o'clock. The Cascade; the Tield of Longchamps^ 
on wliich races and reviews are held ; the Jardin 
if Acdimatation (zoological gardens) ; Model Dairy, 
Pre Catalan ; the Allee des Acacias, through the centre 
of this park ; the pretty suburbs of Passy and Auteuil; 
and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes, and St. Cloud, 
— are the principal objects of interest. 

E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincennes, a vast 
woody tract, which furnishes a delightful breathing- 
place for the Parisians. The Chateau (open Sat., 12-4, 
by order from Commandant) was built in 1164, an^ 
is a strong fortress, containing barracks and arsenal, 
and a miUtary school. There is a monument to the 
Due d'Enghien ; and from the Donjon, a square tower 
190 ft. high, a fine view may be enjoyed. The chapel 
was founded in 1379. 

The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of 
55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre is 
an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple of the 
Sibyl at Tivoli. Great battle near here on the 30th of 
May, 1814. The Pare de Monceaux may be entered 
from the Rue de Courcelles. It covers 18 acres, and 
is surrounded by magnificent residences of wealthy 
Parisians, Great numbers of Communists were exe- 
cuted here at the close of the insurrection. 

The Champs-Blys^es is a world-famous prome- 
nade. The illumination on the 14th of July (national 
fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Cafe-Concerts 
of importance have summer theatres here. 

The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omnibus 
or by river steamboat, is open daily from 10 till dark. 
The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 10-5 ; the 
Galleries, containing the collections, on Tues. and Sun, 
afternoons; library daily, 10-3. Botanic Garden, her^ 
one of the pleasantest promenades in the city. 



182 JULY COLUMN. - ARC DE TRIOMPHE. 

->* 

The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares 
in the world, is a good starting-point for any excursion 
about Paris. In the centre is tlie Obelisk of Luxor, 
given to Louis Philippe by the Pasha of Egypt. It is 
76 ft. high, and weighs 240 tons. On either side is a 
handsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are 
8 stone figures, representing the chief towns of France. 
On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally 
observe a mourning wreath. The Germans bivouacked 
here in 1871. In 1792-99, 3,000 people perished here 
on the guillotine. Louis XVI. was executed near 
central gate of Tuileries garden. The Flace de la 
Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. 
high, with figure of Liberty. See Place du Chateau 
d'Eau, Place du Chatelet, Place Louvois, and Place 
Dauphiiie. On the Place du Pont St. 3Iichel there is a 
fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael over-- 
coming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands 
the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years 
of his life. In the centre of the Place de VEtoile, at the 
top of the Champs-Ely sees, stands the noble Arc de 
Triomphe de I'Etoile, begun in 1806 by Napoleon I., 
and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, at a cost of 
$2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft. wide, 
and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. 
wide. On the side are groups representing the Napo- 
leonic campaigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear 
on the vault. Spiral staircase of 261 steps to platform at 
top, whence a grand view. From the Triumphal Arch 
to the Poi'te Maillot runs the Ave. de la Grande Armee, 

In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. high, 
surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I. , in costume o| 
a Caesar. The column, pulled down by communists in 
1871, was made of cannon taken from the Aus- 
trians. Notice curious heads over the houses round 



PARIS. 183 

the Square. The Place Lotivois, near tlie National 
Library; the Place de la Bourse, where stands the 
Bourse, or Exchange (from a gallery in which visitors 
can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) ; 
the Square Montholon, on the Rue Lafayette ; the 
^splanade^ in front of the Invalides ; the Champs de 
Mars, where four great exhibitions have been held, 
and where the celebrated Eiffel Tower (984 ft. in 
height) is located; the Trocadero Gardens, now crowned 
with a superb palace used for historical collections and 
for musical concerts ; the Place GlicJiy, at the head of 
the street of the same name ; and the Place de la Nation, 
should not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de 
Greve, wliere the stake and the scaffold were erected so 
often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the 
Place de V Hotel de Ville ; and directly in the rear of it 
is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected 
on the ruins of the one burned to the ground by the 
Connnunists, May 24, 1871. With the old building, 
1533-1628, a library of W0,000 vols, was consumed. 
The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented with hundred* 
of statues. The Place de la Roquette is a gloomy square, 
in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred 
when they are sentenced to death. Many notorious exe- 
cutions occurred on this Place. In the Place des Victoires 
see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV. ; the statues of 
Jeanne d'Arc, on the Hue de Rivoli, in the Place des 
Pyr amides ; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory. 
The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, 
on the Boulevard St. Denis, are triumphal arches, 
erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate 
the victories of Louis XIY. in Holland and on the 
Lower Rhine. The alHed armies, when they entered 
Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin, 
|ust as the German armies entered under the Arc da 



184 THE PASSAGES OF PARIS. 

Triomplie in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were 
sanguinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830, 1848, 
and 1871. One of the most formidable barricades, and 
one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871, 
was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St. 
Jacques, which occupies a portion of the site of the old 
Ch. of St. Jacques la Boucherie, is a beautiful tower 
(1508-23), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of the old 
church; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the 
arch. Great number of other statues on the monument. 
The Square Monge contains a statue of Yoltaire. See 
in the Square du Temple the group of lime-trees under 
which Louis XYI. used to sit when he was a prisoner. 
The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, opening on the 
Hue St. Martin, has a magnificent industrial school. 
Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe 
(open 10-4; Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon., Fri., Sat., 
1 fr.) ; articles are all labelled. See Refectory/ of the 
old abbey. The handsome Gothic Hall is now a hbrary, 
20,000 vols, (open to students, 10-3, 7.30-10 daily). 
The Fontaine de V Observatoire is ornamented with 
columns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon, 
Evening, Night. See Fontaine Cuvier, in the Jardin, 
des Plantes ; Fontaine Gaillon, in the Place of the same 
name; Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in the 
city; the Fontaine des Innocents, in Square of same 
name; Fontaine Louis le Grand; Fontaine Moliere, 
entrance to the Rue Moliere; Fontaine Richelieu, in the 
Rue de Richelieu; FontaiTie Notre Dame ; Fontaine 
Bt, Sulpice; and the Fontaine de la Victoire, 

The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not 
escape the stranger's attention. The most noticeable 
lire the Passages Jouffroy, des FanoramaSy de V Opera, 
des Princes, on the grand boulevards; the Choiseuly 
"Hue des Petits Champs ; Passage Verdean^ a continua* 



PARIS. 185 

tion of the Jouffroy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue 
Montmartre; Passage Vivienne, from. Rue YiYienne;, 
Passage du Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to the 
Rue St. Lazare. Beware of beggars and people who 
offer their services in these arcades. The best shop- 
ping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de la Chaus- 
see d'Antin, Avenue de I'Opera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard 
Haussmann, Rue des Capueines, Rue Royale, Rue 
Auber, Boulevard St. Germain, and all the grand 
boulevards. The shops in the Avenue de I'Opera are^ 
usually reasonable in their prices, but those of the^ 
Rue de Rivoli are not. 

Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. The 
most noticeable is P^re-la-Chaise. Here the Com- 
munists made their last stand, and from the hill-top- 
bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Con- 
corde. See graves and tombs here of Heloise and 
Abelard ; Alf red de Musset ; the composers Bellini,. 
Gretry, Boi'eldieu, Cherubini, Rossini and Chopin;;: 
of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the trage- 
dian, Dupuytren, Beaumarchais, Manuel and Be- 
ranger in the same tomb, Benjamin Constant,. 
Racine, Moliere, Lafontaine, Balzac, Eugene^ 
Delacroix, Thiers, Marshal Ney; Clement Thomas, 
and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune;: 
and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on Saturday)- 
the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See 
Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop 
and other hostages were executed by the Communists.- 
The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- 
rich Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile Gautier, 
Gozlan, Miirger, Horace Vernet and Troyon. On the 
Boulevard Montrouge is the Montparnasse Cemetery. 
Visit the Picpus Cemetery, Rue Picpus, where are 
tombs of Lafayette and many members of old French 
nobility, victims of the Revolution. See at end of 
burial-ground the Cemetery of the Guillotined, where? 



186 hCtel des invalides. 

1,300 persons, executed at the Barriere du Trone, are 
aburied. 

Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ramparts 
..(cost, $28,000,000), with 94 bastions, and 21 M. long. 
They are 32 ft. liigh, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat 
48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870-71 
ihe system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged, 
*rhe approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16 
4ietached forts, none of them farther than 2 M. from the 
«ity. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- 
turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. bank 
of the Marne and Sehie are best worth visiting. 

The Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in 
the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from 
the Place de la Concorde. It was founded in 1670 
by Louis XIV. for the veterans of the army. There 
lare at present about 500 inmates, although tlie build- 
ing was intended to accommodate 5,000. The dome 
-of the Ck. of the Invalides, which can be seen from a 
long distance, was gilded in the time of Napoleon I. 
The fapade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In 
front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins. 
Over the principal entrance stands an equestrian figure 
of Louis XIV. On the Esplanade is the " Triumphal 
Battery," used in firing salutes on great occasions. 
Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour d'Hon- 
neur, painted with scenes from various Prench warlike 
epochs, the Refectories, Library, the Salle du Conseil, 
the Artilleri/ Miisenm, and the Ch., in whicli is the 
Tomb of Napoleon I., directly beneath the dome 
(entrance to the dome Mon., Tues., Wed., and Fri., 
12-3, free). Above the entrance to the crypt are 
inscribed the words from ^,he Emperor's last wUl: 
^'I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks 
mi the Seine, among that Prencb people I have so 



PARIS. / 18f 

well loved." Note the bas-reliefs by Simsirt; colos* 
sal victories by Pradier; the sarcophagus, whicb'^ 
weighs 67 tons; the decoration of the tomb; and 
the monument of Vauban and Turenne. In a chapel 
on the 1. is the tomb of Jerome Bonaparte; on the 
r., the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King 
of Spain. The Hotel des Invalides is shown daily 
from 12-3, except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to- 
the Ecole Miliiaire, founded in 1761 by Louis XV, 
A noble building; admission by special order. A. 
great number of executions of Communists here. 

Operas and Theatres. — The majority of th& 
Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tourists will' 
wish to visit the Grand Opera, or Natiotial Academy 
of Music, and the ThecUre Frangais, which are open 
the year round. The new Opera House was buili 
1861-74i, and is the largest theatre in the world, cov- 
ering nearly 3 acres, but seats less people (2,156)> 
than La Scala or San Carlo in Italy. The facade- 
is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice- 
the celebrated group of La Banse by Carpeaux. The 
7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry, 
declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the- 
medallions and busts of composers. The gfand stair- 
case of white marble, with balustrades of red antique 
marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest 
in Europe (see local guides for description). To gen- 
tlemen we recommend the Stalles de Parterre, 7 fr. y 
to families, if economy be an object, \\\% Troisiemes, 8 fr. 
Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except 
occasionally on Sat. The Amphitheatre is the choice 
part of the house. All this quarter of Paris is illumi» 
nated by electricity. At the other end of the Avenue 
de rOpera is tlie Theatre Fraiigais, the rank of 
which is well known. Pounded in 1600, it was under 



188 OPERAS AND THEATRES. 

Moliere's superintendence until his death. The lobby 
contains statues of Voltaire, George Sand, and other 
celebrities (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). Paris is the 
home of genteel comedy ; and the theatres where it 
can be best seen are the Frangais, Vaudeville, and 
Gymnase. For light opera go to the Opera Comique 
(good seats, 7-12 fr.). The Odeon ranks next to the 
Frangais, and there, as at the leading theatre, classi- 
cal drama is often produced. For opera bouffe go to 
the Renaissance, the Bouffes Parisiens, or the 
Folies Dramatiques. The Varietes has a specialty 
of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The Palais 
Royal is the recognized temple of broad comedy 
and of those light buffooneries played nowhere so 
well as in Paris. The GoaU, Chatelet, de VEdeyi, 
..Ambigu- Comique, and Porte St. Martin are mainly 
^devoted to spectacles, fairy pieces and ballets. The 
Theatre Sarah Bernhardt, formerly des Nations, 
is where Bernhardt plays when in Paris. For 
other theatres, see daily papers or the English 
papers. There are several Circus buildings and 
an immense and splendid Hippodrome. The Con- 
servatoire de Musique is in the Rue du Faubourg 
Poissonniere. Concerts Sunday afternoons in win- 
ter, generally at the Theatre du Chdtelet and 
Champs Ely sees Circus. 

Museums. — The Louvre ; paintings, statuary, 
antiquities ; 10-4 in winter, 9-5 in summer, Mondays 
excepted. The Luxembourg; paintings, statuary, 
chiefly works of living French artists; 9-5 except 
Sun. ; when the Senate is in session tickets must be 
obtained from a Senator or from the Secretaire de la 
questure. Cluny, Rue de Sommerard ; antiquities and 
curiosities; 10-4 except Monday. Moliere. Collec- 
tion of busts and portraits of great value as regards 
the literary history of France, in various parts of the 
Theatre Frangaife"; authorization to visit the non- 



PARIS 189 

public parts of building from the archivist, M. Gr. 
Monval. Camavalet, Rue de Sevigne; objects re- 
lating to the history of the French Revolution ; 11-4 
Sun. and Thurs, Archives Nationales, Rue des 
Francs-Bourgeois; objects and documents relative to 
French history; 10-4 except Monday. Cabinet des 
Estampes et des Medailles, Rue Richelieu ; 10-4 daily. 
Musee des Beaux-Arts, Rue Bonaparte; casts, copies, 
engravings; 10-4 daily. Instrumental, B^ue de Fa,u- 
bourg-Poisonniere; musical instruments of all epochs; 
12-4 Mon. and Thurs. De VOpera; autograph MSS. 
of composers, instruments, costumes; 11-4 except 
Sunday. De la Monnaie, Quai Conti ; medals, coins, 
postage stamps; 12-3 Tues. and Fri. on authorization 
obtained from the director of the mint. Des Gobelins, 
ancient and modern tapestries; 1-3 Wed. and Sat. 
Trocadero; on the ground floor, casts of architectural 
and other sculpture ; 11-4 except Monday ; first floor, 
ethnographical museum; 12-4 Sunday and Thursday. 
Ouimet, Avenue d'lena; collection relative to the 
history of eastern religions; 12-4 daily, Du Oarde- 
Meuble, Quai d'Orsay; furniture, tapestries, bronzes, 
etc. , from Louis XIV. to present time ; interesting; 
10-4 except Monday. Des Arts et Metiers, Rue St.- 
Martin; collection relative to applied science and in- 
dustries; one of the halls has remarkable acoustic 
properties; 10-4 Sun., Tues. and Thurs.; other days 
by special permit. Dupuytren and Orfila, Rue de 
I'Ecole de Medicine; anatomy and pathology; 10-4 
except Sunday ; tickets obtained at the office of the 
secretary of the Faculte de Medecine. D' Artilleries 
at the Hotel des Invalides; arms and armor; 10-4 
except Monday. Caen, 1 Rue de Seine; paintings 
offered in competition for the Prix de Rome; admis- 
sion on request. Cernusci, 7 Avenue Velasquezv 
Chinese and Japanese art. 

National Library (2,000,000 vols.), in the Rue 
d© Richelieu (see local guides); the beautiful jSt, 



190 ALONG THE SEINE 

Genevieve Library (130,000 vols, and 35,000 MSS.), Place du 
Pantheon; the Halles Centrales, vast pavilions cov, 
ering many acres, reached from the Rue Montmartre or 
Bonlevard Sehastopol, should be visited between 6 and 
8 A.M., when the marketing is most active. The Boiu^^e 
de Commerce, in the Rue du Louvre, replaces the old 
wheat exchange called the Halle au Ble. The Halle aux 
Vins, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin. 
des Plantes ; 30 million gallons can be stored there. The 
Abattoirs, or -slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000 
persons are employed there. 

The Hospitals of the Hotel Dieu, Beaujon, Fau- 
bourg St. Honore ; La Charite, Rue Jacob ; La Pitie, Rue- 
Lacepede; Larihoisier-e, near the N. Rly. stat.; St. Louis, 
Rue Bichat ; Du Midi, Rue des Capucines ; De Lourcine, 
street of same name ; Des Cliniques, Place de I'Ecole da 
Medecine; Des LicuraNes, at Ivry,— may generally be 
visited without difficulty. For descriptions of the great 
Asylums, of the Mont de Piete, of the Prisons (historical 
ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military 
establishments, see local guides. An excursion through 
the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Place de la Con- 
corde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month 
in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of 
miost of the victims of the Revolution, and of nearly 
6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with 
permission. 

Of the 27 bridges over the Seine, the most titjticeable 
are the Pont d' Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches, 
is 390 feet long, and has the names of the principal officers 
killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments 
of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 185S. 
The Font K'euf was begun in 1578, and completed in 
1G3L Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry lY, 
The Pout des Artn was built for pedestrians only. The 
Pont ciii Carrousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those 
on the left bank representing Abundance and Industry, 
and on the right the Seine and the City of Paris. The 
Pont r.oijal was built in l'J{j8. Just beloAv is the pier for 
the stea,mers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes. Far- 



VERSAILLES 191 

fher down the Seine are the Pont de Sdlferino^ 155 yards 
long, with the names of the principal French victories 
in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices ; the 
Pont de la Concorde, opposite the Palais Bourbon; the 
Pont des InvaUdc.<, which has statues representing victory 
by land and victory by sea; the Pout de V Alma, with 
statues between the arches representing different types 
of French soldiers; the Pont dUena, built 1806-13, opposite 
the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and 
horses; the Pont Alexandre III., built in 1899; 
and the Pont du Jour^ a superb viaduct, 570 feet long. 

Excursions near Paris. 

Versailles (Hotel des Reservoirs, where the German 
priiices dwelt during the siege of Paris) is reached by 
half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont-Parnasse stat. 
(llf-12i M. ; return-fares, 3 fr. 30 c., 2fr. 70 c.); or 
by tramway from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage, 
through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud, 
and Yille d'Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of = 
61,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace 
that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between 
low, forest-covered hills, at a cost of $2003000,000. 
The palace overlooks the town . See Hotel de Ville j 
the Palais de Justice; the Library (60,000 vols.) ; 
the Salle du Jeu de Paume, the cradle of the 
French Revolution; the Statue of Horace Vernet ; and 
the Theatre, restored in 1850 ; the Place Hoche, with 
the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral of St. 
Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among 
which are those of Bayard, Colbert, Massena, and Tu- 
renne, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV. 
In 1G61 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a 
palace and park; and Levan and Mansard erected the 
buildings, while Lc Notre laid out and decorated the 
gardens. The palace has not been inhabited since- 
1789 I ana in the reign of Louis Phihppe it was con? 



192 VERSAILLES. 

verted into a museum, devoted, as the inscription 
shows, " To all the Glories of Prance.'* The Chapel 
is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). The Museum is 
open daily, 12-4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at 
the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble 
Staircase, leading to the fii'st story ; and th» Quee?i's 
Staircase, to the second. The Museum is va^ .', and its 
magnificent halls are crowded with statues, aud por- 
traits of the generals, admirals, and sovf/ijigns of 
Prance, and with hundreds of pictures of he) battles in 
all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, )elacroix, 
Regnault, etc., forming an unrivalled panorat la of mili- 
tary glory. 33 grand battle-pictures in Oalerie des 
Batailles, a hall 396 X 52 ft. in area. In tie Salle du 
.Sacre is the great picture of the "Consecration of 
Napoleon," by David ; also, Gros's famouw painting, 
" The Battle of Aboukir." The Grande Galerie des 
<j-laces is the most notable hall, 240 X 35 ft. in area, 
adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679-83), and over, 
looking the gardens. The Bedroom of Louis XIV., 
the Salle des Gardes, the King's Antechumher , the 
Council Hall, the Salle de la Guerre; aud, on the 
ground floor, the Halls of the Marshals, of the Kings 
xf France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), 
:and of the Bo^al Besidences, — are especially worth 
visiting. The Sculpture Galleries are exkemely inter- 
esting. In the Queen's Chamber the 3 queens, Marie 
Therese, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have 
lodged. Catalogues, giving descriptiori of all the rooms, 
fur sale at palace. Pine view of the Grand Canal and 
the Basin of Apollo from the steps in front of ths 
palace. The fountains play afternoons on Sun. (gen. 
erally announced in the Paris papers). The chief cu. 
riosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685); th« 
Parterres du Midi and du Nord ; the Biece d'Eau det 



ST. CLOUD. 193 

Siusses ; the Neptune Founfaln ; the two fountains near 
the Orangery ; the Latona Basin ; and the Grande Ah 
lee du Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. lon^, 
and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Louis XIV. 
gave his Venetian festivals, famous in histor3^ The 
Grand Trianon, a horseshoe-shaped villa, built by 
Louis XIY. for Madame Maiutenon, is open ■ daily 
(13-4). E-ichly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine 
was tried. The gardens of the Petit Trianon are also- 
open daily. Notice the curious display of old state- 
coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach- 
house near the Grand Trianon. When the Gr ancles 
Eaux play, rly. tickets from Paris cost 2 fr, l^ fr. 

St. Cloud (Restaurants : Belvedere ; cle la Gave) is 
visited from St. Lazare (1 fr. 60 c., 1 fr. 10 c.) ; or by 
steamer, wliich is preferable in warm weather. From 
the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk 
through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn. 
up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly de- 
stroyed by Erench shells, thrown into the wood to dis- 
lodge the Germans. This was a favorite residence of 
Napoleon III. (One-horse carriages per hr., 3 fr.) 
Many ruined buildings in the town, remains of the 
conflagration started by the Germans. Beautiful new 
ch. in the 12th-century style, with a lofty stone spire. 
New Hotel de Fille, near by. Magnificent outlook over 
Paris from the hill above the stat. The Palace was 
inhabited by most of the French sovereigns, from 1785. 
The rly. from Paris to Versailles runs through the 
beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, fou.n. 
tains, and lakes. See the Trocadero Garden, N. of the 
palace ; the Pavilion de Breteuil; and the great water- 
jet, to the 1. of the Cascade. The Park of Montr etont, 
near the rly., was the scene of a desperate fight, in 
the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in which 
they lost 3,000 men. Monument here to the. slain. 



194 SEV^|:S. — ST. GERMAIN. — RUEIL. 

Sevres is easily readied from St. Cloud. Here is 
the noted porcelain factory. Exliibition room of the 
Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; strangers admitted 
without cards. The Workshops may be inspected 
I'lon., Thurs., and Sat., 12-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de 
Yalois, Paris). PJy. from Paris to Bdlevue, 5 min. 
"walk from the factory. 

St. Ger2?iain-en-Laye. This is oue of the most 
beautiful excursions near Paris (fares, Ifr. 65 c, Ifr. 
35 c). The principal sights are tlie Pavilion Henri 
Qucd're, in which Louis XIY. was l3orn, and Thiers 
died; the magnificent Terrace on the border of the 
forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau, 
•where James II. of England lived after the Pevolution 
of 1CS8. In the Ch. is a Mausoleum, erected by George 
lY. to the memory of James. The forest of Si. Ger- 
main, one of the largest near Paris (9,000 acres), is 
full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be 
spent in this lofty and healthy old town. The Museum 
of Natio?ial Atitiquities is in the chateau (open Sun., 
Tues., and Thurs-., 11-5). Tiie Terrace, constructed 
by Le Notre in 1672, is 1^ M. long, with superb view. 
Prom St. Germain to Yersailles is a pleasant walk. 

Hneil (fares, 95 c, 65 c.) is 8f M. from St. Lazare 
stat. In its Ch. are monuments to Empress Josephine 
and Queen Eortense. Malmaison (tramway from Rueil^ 
2 M.) was the favorite home of Napoleon, and there 
Josephine died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau 
of Buzenval, near which the artist, Henri Pegnault, 
was killed in tlie fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About 2| M. 
from Pueil is Eongival, a resort of celebrated painters. 
See the Restaurant, with walls decorated with land- 
scapes by Corot, Pranyais, etc. Prom 1 hence %Q) to 
Louveciennes, a lovely village, with a 15th-century ch. 
It is but 7-8 min. walk thence to Voirirj. On the 



ST. DENIS. — ENGHIEN. 1 9^ 

Irill is Mariy-le-Roi, where stood a beautiful palacer 
built by Louis XI Y., and destroyed during the Revo- 
lution. Victorieu Sardou Hves here. To the W. i* 
Monte Cristo, in which Dumas the Eider lived so long. 

St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris (return-fares, 1 fr, 
30 c., 85 c., 70 c.). Chapel begun here, a.d. 275, 
in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on 
Montmartre, and who is said to have taken it on hi» 
arm and walked off across the fields. Dagobert builfe 
the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun bj 
Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 775, and demol- 
ished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years 
later. During the Revolution the ch. was pillaged. Ifc 
was restored by VioUet-le-Duc. Beautiful monuments 
and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed ; 
the Oriflamme was kept ; Abelard dwelt ; Joan of Arc 
hung up her arms ; Henri I. abjured Protestant- 
ism; and Napoleon I. was married to Marie Louise. 
The bones of the Kings of France from Dagobert 
(630) to Louis Xy. (1774) were buried here; and 
the mad Revolutionists tore them from their tombs, 
and buried them in a common ditch. They are now 
in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn, 
the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. 
wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and en- 
riched with mosaics and statuary. 

Enghien and Montmorency are on the N. RIy. 
Enghien is noted for sulphur baths; and at J/on^- 
moreiicy is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited, 
and where he began La Nouvelle Helo'ise. Robespierre 
and Gretry also lived here, ChantUly and Com'plegn& 
{fares to Chantilly, 5fr. oc, 3fr. 75c., 2fr. 80c ; to 
Compiegne, lOfr. 30c., 7fr. 35c., 3fr. 65g.) Chan- 
tilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Conde. and 
was beautified by them from the 13th century until the 



196 COMPIEGNE.-FONTAINEBLEAU. 

Revolution. It has two fine chateaux (described b^ 
Madame de Sevigne), and a famous forest of 10 
square M. Spring and autumn races here. Com-I 
pi^gne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon^ 
I. was fond of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there 
with great magnificence. The GaUrie des Fetes is- 
superb. The Library was the favorite work-place of 
Napoleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M. 
around. From Compiegne to Pierrefonds, excursion 
by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal 
fortress, built in 1400, and restored by VioUet-le-Duc^ 
•with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height 
over Pierrefonds. Motel des Ruines, near by. 
Ermenonville (return tickets, 7 fr. 90 c, 5 fr. 90 c, 
4 1 r. 95 c. ; Le Bourget, where there were many fights 
in 1870-71, is on this route), is the beautiful retreat 
■where Rousseau died, in 1778, Celebrated Park just 
beyond, at Mortefontaine. — Trains run to Fontaine- 
bleau {Lion d'Or; Aigle-Noir ; Bib Nordetdela 
Poste; Be la Chancellerie) from the Gare de Lyons 
(return tickets, 9 fr., 6 fr. 80 c, 4 fr, 95 c). On the 
the road is Ckarenton, with its celebrated lunatic 
asylum and fortress ; Alfort, where there is a horse 
and dog hospital ; Ilontmesly and Mehm, with two 
handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From 
Stat., omnibus (1|- M. ; 30-50 c.) to the Chdteaib 
(open daily, 12-4). This stately palace was built by 
Francis L, on the site of Louis VII. 's castle; and 
here Conde died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked, 
Louis XIII, was born, Josephine was divorced^ 
Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was 
imprisoned, and Napoleon III. was baptized. It 
is crowded with rich frescoes and paintings, Gobe- 
lins tapestries, and antique furnishings. See the bou- 
doir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms oi Anne of 
Austria and Catherine de Medicis, and the splendid 



SCEAUX. — MEUDON. — OKLEANS. 197 

ISalle des Fetes. This was a favorite abode of the 
.Empress Eugenie and her son. The Eorest, dear to 
artists, and one of the most beautiful in the world, 
must be seen. It is 50 M. around, with many fine 
gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads 
and pathways. On the borders are many cliarming 
villages inhabited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of 
Millet will visit Barbizon. 

Sceaux (return-fares, 2 fr. 20 c., 1 fr. 40c., 1 fr. 10 c.) 
is a beautiful hill-town, with a delicious Park and 
1:18 Chateau where Colbert once lived and Voltaire 
wrote several of his famous tragedies. Chatillon 
was the scene of many combats during the siege. 

Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat 
n.'sr^rj 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 and 
l)urued liy the Germans in 1871, the Empress Marie 
Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the 
parish of Habelais. Pine view from Terrace (where 
the Prussians had a 26-gun battery) ; noble trees, "^he 
walk tlirough Meudon to Versailles is charming. 

To Orleans, Blois, and Tours (fares to Tours, 28 fr. 
80 c., 21 fr. 60 c, 15 fr. 80 c. ; 145|- M.). Orleans 
{Iloiel cV Orleans ; Be Lolret), founded by the Romans, 
on the Loire, contains a noble Elamboyant Cathedral, 
the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe since the 
Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, with double 
aisles ; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See the 
bronze replica of a marble statue of Jeanne d'Arc 
made by Princess Marie, the Museum, and the Mairie. 
Oilcans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Bur- 
gundy. The forest of Orleans is one of the largest 
in the country. The Germans took the city in 1870. 
Blois {Hotel d'Angleterre) has a stately old Castle, 
for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Eine 
old houses in the town. 12 M. (2 hrs.) hence, by 



198 AMBOISE. — TOUKS. — DIJON. 

omnibus, is tlie grand, many-towered, and iiistoric 
Castle of Chambord, built by Francis I. and si Hi 
in the Bourbon family. From Onzain stat. it is 
1 M. to the Chateau de Chaumont, a high-towered 
hill-fortress, where Catherine de Medicis lived ; Car- 
dinal d'Amboise was born ; the Prince de Conde was 
imprisoned; and Voltaire wrote La Pucelle. 11 M. 
beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched 
on a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In the gardens 
is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvellous stone- 
carving. 10 M. S. is the castle of Chenonceaux, 
built by Francis I., inhabited by Diana dc Poi- 
tiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resort 
of Voltaire, Rousseau, Bolingbroke, etc. It is still in 
perfect order, and elegantly furnished. At Tours 
\H6tel de I'Unlvers, near the stat.), in Touraine, on the 
Loire, the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathe- 
dral, founded in 1170 ; 'Episcopal Palace ; many famous 
schools ; a Museum v/ith 200 paintings ; a fine Public 
Library ; and two ancient towers (relics of the old 
Cathedral), beneath one of ^^hich the wife of Charle- 
magne was buried. Many American and English 
families reside here. See Flessis les Tours, the home* 
of Louis XL 

For other excursions from Paris see local guides. 

Routes from Paris to Switzerland. 

Our itinerary leads to Germany, before entering Swit- 
zerland. 

From Paris to Geneva, hj Dijon and Macon. — In 11 
hrs., by express train (distance, 388iM. ; fares, 76 fr. 
75 c. , 47 f r. 30 c. , 30 f r. 85 c). Many stop at Maeon over 
night. J)\^Qii{Hotel du Jura, near the sta. de la Cloche^ 
Bourgogne), 00,000 inhab. , is in the wine-growing dis- 



MACON. — BELFORT. — RHEIMS. L 91^ 

ti.ct. See the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now 
a town-hall, with very mterestmg museum ; the Castle, 
built by Louis XI. ; T^e Burgundian-Gothic Ch. of Notre 
Dame (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. Macon 
{Hotel de r Europe) is an important rly. junction (good 
Dulfet). Eine views of the Jura Mts. from the train. 
At Amberieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at 
Culoz for Jix-les-Bains, Chamber!/, and Turin. Near 
here some fine viaducts, and the Fort de VBcliise, the 
key to the Rhone valley. From this point you traverse 
a picturesque mt. country to Geneva. 

From Paris to Switzerland, via Pontarlier (fares 
from Paris to Berne, 68 fr. 15 c, 50fr. S5c., 37 fr. 
25 c.). Same route as previous one to Dijon. From 
Pontarlier i\iQ route leads up through the mts. to Berne ; 
the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads front 
Pontarlier to Lausanne (fares from Paris, 67 fr., 47 fr. 
80 c., 35 fr.). 

From Paris to Basle, bi/ Troyes, Chaumont, Vesoul, and 
Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in 
1870, and thence either through Alsace, touchmg at 
Mulhouse, or by Belle to Basle. 

From Paris to Basle, via Napxy, Strasboiirg, and 
Mulhouse (fare, 75 fr. 60 c). The interesting towns on 
this route are Meaux {Hotel des 3 Rois), 25 M. from 
Paris, m a loveiy situation on the Marne. Superb 
Goihic Gatliedral of St. Etienne, with Monuments of 
Boosnct (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Pliili]} of 
Castilie. O'Meau Thierry was the birthplace of La- 
fcriiitine. From Epernay branch (fare, 3fr. 70 c.) to 
'Rlio\m.B(Hotel Lion d'Or; Grand; Commerce), 2t. city of 
105,000 inhab. In its cathedral the kings of France 
have been crowned. See magnificent Gothic Abbey Ch. 
of St. Remi, founded by Clovis in the 6th century; and 
the Cathedral, built 1313-1430, and one of the grandest 



200 SEDAN. — TOUL, — NANCY. — THE YOSGF;?i'. 

in Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. high ; tilled 
with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose- 
windows and interesting Treasury. Charles YII. was 
crowned here ; Joan of Arc standing by his side. The 
Hotel de Ville contains a fine public library. Rly. to 
Sedan {Hotel de la Croix d'Or'), where MacMahon''s 
army of 80,000 men surrendered. 

Beyond Epernay on the main line is Chilons-sur- 
Marne ; and Bar-le-Duc {Hotel du Cygne^. Statues 
of Marshal Oudinot and Gen. Excelmaus ; monument of 
the Prince of Orange. Toul, on the Moselle, is a for- 
tress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy {Hotel de 
France; Paris; Grand), the old capital of Lor- 
raine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large 
Cathedral, an interesting Museum (in the Hotel de 
Ville), a splendid new Prefecture, and a fine speci- 
men of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of the Dukes 
of Lorraine. Mtre Dame de Bon-Secoitrs contains 
the Tomb of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived 
in Nancy after abdicating his throne in 1735. See 
triumphal arch ; two fountains ; and Statues of 
Thiers, Callot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the 
gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Bur- 
gundy, close to which was found the body of 
Charles the Bold, after the celebrated battle (1477). 
Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts. 
and down to Strasbourg^ 



ST. QUENTIN. — MONS. — VALENCIENNES. 201 

BELGIUM. 

TITE now invite your attention to the route froiir 
W Paris to Brussels and other sections of Belgium,,, 
our advice being that it is well to see portions of Bel- 
gium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Sv/itzerlant 
a:Kl Italy, 

The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is? 
from the Gare du Nord, via Terc/nier, Maubeuge, and 
Mons (time, 6^ hrs. ; fares, 36tr. 20 c., 27 fr. 20 c.^ 
IS fr. 90 c). You pass 1 liroug]i St. Denis ; Chautilly 5: 
Ci'ei] ; Compiegne ; St. Quentin, an important manu- 
factaring cenire, with a noble ch. as well as a magnifir' 
cent City Hull of the litli and 15th centuries; througte 
t!ie valley of the Sambre to Maiiheiige and thence tf> 
Felfjiues, the Prench frontier. Mons {Hotel Couromiey 
had a castle built by Julius Ca:sar, It is the centra 
ot a e:reat coal-uiiniug country. Splendid interior of 
tlis Cathedral of St. Waudru '(1450-1589) and Eotet 
de rule (1458)'. Belfry built in 1G62 by the Spaniards. 
At Malplaquet, 3 M. S'. E., Marlborougii defeated the 
French in 1700, and lost 20,000 m.en. Between Mons 
and Brussels is Hal, with the elegant 14th-century Notre- 
Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reachr- 
ing Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule's towers. 

Another route from Paris to Brussels traverses- 
Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons (fares, 39 fr. 25 c.,.. 
29 fr. 45 c, 20 fr. 55 c). Douai {Rotel de Flandre) \^ 
an important place de guerre, and has an interesting mu-?- 
seum and town-hall. Valenciennes is also a strong.: 
old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here- 
is a statue of Proissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- 
ciennes. From thence to Mons you pass through ^ 



^02 iilLLE. — NAMUR. — LifiGE. 

fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where tlia 
French won a great victory over the Austrians in 

1792. 

There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghent by 
l/ille, Pv-oubaix, and Courtrai (9 hrs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 c, 
:38 fr. 25 c). Lille {Hotel de I'Etirope), a manufactur- 
ing town of 188,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress on 
;the river Deule, St. Catherine's Ch. has an altar-piece 
by E-ubens. In the Wicar Museum is a precious col- 
slection of drawings by the Italian masters. In the 
^reat square is a column commemorative of the Aus- 
trian siege of 1792. Statue of Gen. Negrier, killed at 
l^aris in 1848. Roubais, 5 M. beyond, is a great 
woollen and cotton working town of 83,000 inliab. ; 
production $40,000,000 yearly. Tourcoing, the French 
frontier, is a factory-tovai. 

Prom London one may go via Calais to Brussels 
l)y Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais^ 21 fr. 30 c., 
1*5 fr. 95 c, 11 fr. 40 c). Leaving London at 8.05 p.m. 
jou reach Brussels at 6 a.m. (fares, £2 lis., £1 18 s.) 

From Paris to Liege, via Charleroi, is 238^ M. (ex- 
press in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c, 31 fr. 90 c, 21 fr. 
35 c). This is also the route from Paris to Cologne 
(fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c, 44 fr. 20 c). Charle- 
Toi is a modern town, an industrial centre of Belgium. 
The environs are fine. 46,000 workmen employed in 
coal-mining. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times 
on the way to Namur, a pretty Plemish fortified town, 
of Roman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse. ■ 
It has several spacious squares, and a Renaissance 
Cathedral. Namur has sustained several celebrated 
sieges, — among others that of 1692, commanded by 
Xouis XIV. in person, Archceological Museum worth 
"Visiting. Prom Namur you may go to Luxembourg. 

Li^ge iHotd d' Aiujkterre; de I' Univers; Ghemin dtf 



BELGIUM. 20S 

Fer; Be Suede), theYlcmish Lvich and fTevmnr. LiitticTi,- 
has 140,000 inhab., and is picturesquely situated ok 
the Meuse. See Quentin Durward for a recital of the 
striking events in its history. Tliis town, "the Shef- 
field of Belgium," is noted for its weapon-factoriesg:. 
and one quarter is given up to workshops. The Chs^ 
of St. Jacques, St Pmd, Si. Martin, St. Croix (lOth- 
century), St. Barthelemij, as well as the Cathedral St, 
Paid, should be seen. The Choir of the cathedral 
dates from the loth century. The splendid Gothic? 
Palais de Justice (described in Quentin Dunvard^ was 
the palace of the piince-bishops, built in 1508-40 by 
Cardinal de la March, a relative of tlie " Wild Boar 
of the Ardennes." See Archrpoloqical Museum ; Botet 
deViUe; University (library, 100,000 vols.) ; the Com- 
munal Museum; the C^y^^'^'W, with grand views; Wx^Uoyal 
Catinon -foundry. Liege is the capital of the Walloons^ 
and the environs have beautiful scenery. 

The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque region 
to Verviers (1 5^ M.), a modern city of woollen-factories;, 
tjience to Jix-la-Chapelle. From Liege yon may visife 
Spa. On the way is Chaudfontaine {Hotel des Bains; 
B' Angleterre), a famous watering-place. The waters- 
(used in baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. 8 M. 
beyond is Pepinster, whence runs a branch line {\ hr,)^ 
to Spa {Rotel de Flandre ; B' Orange ; Be Yorlr, ; Bes 
Pays Bas ; Grand Hotel Britannique ; Casino, Rue 
Royale), one of the oldest of European watering-places. 
The climate is remarkably fine, althougli exposed to 
sudden variations, dangerous for consumptives. The- 
waters are tonic (iron). 3-4 glasses should be taken 
daily, and the cure den)ands 6-8 weeks. Season, May 
15-Oct. 15. 20,000 visitors come here annually. The-: 
village (G,000 inhab.) is in a pretty glen, amonp woode<J'. 
hills and scenery famous for beauty. 



•204 LUXEMBOUKG. — BRUSSELS. 

Prom Namur you may go to Luxembourg and Treves, 
and tlience make a delightful excursion down the Mo- 
selle by steamboat to Coblence. You may also go from 
Liege (109f M. in 5-6 hrs.) to Luxembourg. 

Luxembourg, the famous fortress, the capital of tlie 
grand duchy, was made a neutral state by the Treaty of 
London in 1867. It is very picturesquely situated 
-on a rocky plateau, with precipices on 3 sides. The 
Alzette valley is divided by a fortified rock called the 
Mock, on which is the ancient Melmina Tower. See 
Cathedral, Hotel de Ville, Archceological Musevm, 

Rlys. hence to Treves or Metz, by TMonmlle. \ 

Brussels and Environs. 

Brussels {Hotel Bellevue; De Flandre ; Grand; 
De Yienne; De V Europe; Mengelle ; Hollande; De 
Saxe; de V'Empereur), the capital of Belgium, has 
^including suburbs) 475,000 inhab. To appreciate 
Brussels, read the histories of the old town,— 
the terrible period of the Spanish domination, the 
riots and bombardments in the 17th century, the 
annexation to France, and the union with and seces- 
sion from the Low Countries. Brussels stands on 
an undulating plain. It is divided into the Upper and 
Lower Towns. On the hill are the palaces, the Park, 
and the fine Rue Royale. Below, in the picturesque 
older portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels 
is on the hue between the Walloons and Elemings; 
and you wiU hear Trench and Elemish spoken, the 
former prevailing. Go first to the Grande Place, the 
ancient forum of Brussels. Note the exquisite fapade 
of _ the Hotel de Ville (built 1402-13), and the stately 
spire, 370 ft. high, at whose top is a colossal statue 
of St. Michael. Entrance fee, 50 c. Beautiful tapes- 
tries and paintings in the Salle_des Fetes, etc. Opposite 



BELGIUM. 205 

[is the liaison du Roi, built by Charles V. (1514-25). 
[There were imprisoned Counts Egmont and Hoorne, 
and in front they were decapitated, in 1568. Many 
of picturesque houses on the Place were built by the 
Guilds, as meeting-places. Tournaments were held 
here in the 15th century. The famous Ilannihho 
fountain is back of the Hotel de Ville. The GaUrit 
St.-Huhert is one of the finest arcades in Europe. 
In the steep Hue Montague de la Cour are the finest 
shops. At the top is the Place Eoyale. Go first to 
t\\Q 3Iuseum (Place du Musee). On the left is the 
great Palais de V Industrie, with statue of Prince 
Charles of Lorraine. The Museum of Painting (open 
10-5 in summer) contains 13 canvases by Rubens; 
many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rembrandts. The 
Ancient Museum is rich in tapestries. In the 
Modern Museum there are many good pictures. 
Nejit take the Rue de la. Regence, ending at 
the new Palais de Justice, which covers more 
ground than St. Peter's at Rome, and cost 
$8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by is the Palais 
des Beaux-Arts, with fine statues and groups ; the 
Palace of the Comte de Pla?idres ; the Place dio 
Petit Sablon, with monuments to Counts Egmont 
and Hoorne ; the Roycd Conservatory of Music; 
and the Synagogue. Next, going by "the Bue 
Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade 
(military music, 3-4i, in summer); then to the 
King's Palace, simple, but well stocked with fine 
pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there. 
When he is not, strangers are admitted (2 fr.). 
Ministries in elegant buildings near the Park. 
The Palais des Academies is near the Park. 
This building, in Italian style, contams the 
Plaster Museiim (free. 10-4)- the Academies of 
letters, arts and sciences, and medicine: and 



206 STE. GUDULE. — WATERLOO. 

a noble concert hall, with paintings of episodes in 
Belgian history. 

Ste. Guduie, the great Gothic Church (open, ex- 
cept from 12-4, week days : to climb the towers, 1 pei*- 
son, 2 fr. ; 2-6 persons, 3 fr.), was founded in the lltli 
century ; choir and transept, loth century ; i;owers and 
nave, i4th. The carved pulpit, made in 1699, repre- 
sents the Expulsion from Paradise. Superb stained- 
glass windows ; and mauy rare old tombs. 

Oilier Objects of Interest. — Place des Martyrs, with 
monument to those who perished in the Ilevolution of 
1830; Tlace des Barricades, and statue of Vesalius, 
the anatomist ; Tlace du Luxemhourg, statue of Cocke- 
rill ; Place de la Monnaie, and Opera House ; Bourse / 
Rue Neicve ; handsome new boulevards around the old 
city ; Observatory ; hospitals ; National Bank ; Musee 
Wiertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian painter) ; 
Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de Hal ; precious 
paintings in Aremberg Palace ; Botanical Garden ; 
Bois de la Cambre, the Bois de Boulogne of Brussels. 

At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Ch. of Ste. Marie, where" 
members of the royal family ai"e buried. In the cem- 
etery, grave and statue of Malibran. — Boyal Palace, 
ihe King's favorite residence. Monument to Leo- 
pold I. — Manor of Bouchout, wdiere dwells Carlotta, 
sx-Empress of Mexico. ^ 

Waterloo may be reached by rly. to Braine TAl- 
feud, and walk (-| hr.) to the Butte du JAoii, or to 
Waterloo, and go over to the battle-field by omnibus ; 
or you can go by mail-coach from the Place Boyale, at 
.9.30 a.m. (round-trip, 7fr. ; coachman, 1 fr.). Guides, 
Belgian and English, on the tield (fees, 2-4 fr.). Yfater- 
ioo is a Eleraish village. The Mt. St. Jean and the 
Butte du Lion, on which is a pyramid and a colossal 
lion, should be visited. Musei:ini at Hotel du MuseeJ^-' 



BELGIUM. 207 

LwMivairi {Hotel de Suede ; Du Nord), population 
35,000, may be visited from Brussels in 1 hr. (fares, 
2 fr. 30 c.,'l fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 15 c). This was one of 
the great weaviiig-centres ; but after 1383 the weavers 
wer^t to England. The Hotel de Ville is one of the 
maR'vels of Belgium. This jewel of Gothic art was 
hui'lt 1448-63. Exterior lavishly decorated with stat- 
ues, Tlio great Gothic Ch. of St. Pierre (open, 
excfipt 2-4) has a fine tabernacle and many remark-, 
able paintings. Les Halles, built 1317, and the vast 
pris')n, should be seen. The University, founded in 
142is is Roman Catholic, and has 1,000 students 
(forriieiiy 6,000), 

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, eto, :,! 

You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Antwei-p or Brus- 
sels ; or, il' you come directly from England to Ostend^, 
yoi7 can' go through B]'uges and Ghent to Brussels. FareSj 
DovPT to Ostend, 15 s., 10 s.; 68 M.; time, 4-6 hrs. 
Fares, Oi^^tend to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 c, 6 fr. 95 c, 4 fr. 65 c. 

Ostend {CorLi! ental; de la Plage; de V Ocean; Vic- 
toria; Lion fi^'O/ is the second maritime town in 
Belgium (20, 00'^ \\.) and the summer residence of 
the kiiigv r*; v 7es about 18,000 visitors annually. 
Keiiovvi :.' ■ i.^.„-M<iihs ; magnificent stone dyke, ^ M. 
long; monumental Cursaal; Leopold Park, filled with 
cafes. Celebrated oyster-parks here. From Ostend 
it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 35 c, 90 c.) to 

3=5rnses {Hotel de Flandre; de V Univers; Du Com- 
merce; St. Amami), 45,000 inh., on the grand canals- 
to Ostend, Gli«nt, and Sluys. It is, like Amsterdam, 
called the ' ' Venice of the N orth , " because seamed with 
canals. Handsome rly. stat. Guides, 1-3 fr. Th& 
13th centurj^ was the epoch of Bruges' greatest pros- 



208 BRUGES. 

perity. It was the centre of the trade of the Hanseutic 
League, and the chief commercial city of Europe. Its 
decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place is the 
Meiir de BU Inn of which Longfellow sings. There rdso 
stood the house in which Maximilian was confined ^ in 
the revolt of 1488 ; and opposite is the home of Ciiapies 
11. of England, in his exile. The Cathedral (open 
daily, except 12-4 ; opened then for small fee) stands 
on the site of one built in 1358, and has a great num- 
ber of fine old Flemish pictures (fee to climb the tower, 
1 fr.). Notre Dame contains some veiled, paintirigs, 
shown for a fee of ^fr. The choir and nave daLc iVoin 
1186; the tower from 1250. It is the largest brick 
tower in Belgium, — 390 ft. high (fee, 1 fr.). Hand- 
some bronze doors ; exquisite marble group ok' the 
Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, over the altar. 
In chapel on r, (1 fr.), sumptuous ancient tombs of 
iDharles the Bold and his daughter Marie, Carven 
|)ulpit. Large collection of paintings. 

The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), on^; of the 
quaint monuments of the Communes, is 350 it. high, 
(fee, Ifr, below, ^fr, above). The chimes (48 bells) 
play every quarter-hour, — The Hotel de Vilh (1377) 
is a noble Gothic edifice, with 6 towers, — ^The Hospital 
St. Jean, W, of Notre Dame (open daily, except Sun., 
D--12, and 1-6, ^fr.), is renowned for its marvellous 
■ "paintings by Hans Memling. Do not fail to see these. 
The Chdsse de Ste. Ursule is the best. The Academy of 
Fine Arts {l fi\) has many remarkable pictures by the 
old masters." In St. Jacques are brass engraved moiuu 
ments of Spanish families, — The ChapeUe dii St. Sang 
was built in 1150 as the receptacle for a phial that the 
Patriarch of Jerusalem had given to Theodoric of Elan- 
ders with some drops of the Saviour's blood. Portal 
and ' staircase, Plamboyant Gothic. The Palais de 



BELGIUM. 209 

Justice (rebuilt, 1722) Las a carved chimney-piece 
(1528-29) in the Court Room (ifr). Bruges, though 
decadent and melancholy, is celebrated i'or pretty 
girls and decorated old houses. See statues of 
Memling and Jan van Eyck. From Bruges it is £ 
hr. (fares, 3fr. 40c., 2fr. 55c., Ifr. 70c.) to 

G-hent {Hotel Royal; Be la Paste; Be Vienne), a ' 
city of 145,000 inhab., on the river Scheldt. The 
town is divided' into 26 islands, aud lias 88 bridges 
The history of Ghent is romantic. It became the capi- 
tal of Elanders in 1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin 
had introduced weaving. The great Guilds, under 
Jacques van Artevelde, etc., ruled this region for 3 
centuries, and often came to blows among themselves, 
as on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a 
terrible street-battle. In the 15th century there were 
40,000 weavers; and the woollen workers alone fur- 
nished 18,000 men to the civic army. Charles V. was 
born in Ghent in 1500. Erom the Spanish domina- 
tion dates the decline. 11,000 inhab. emigrated at 
once to England and Holland. Louis XIV. took the 
town after a siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napo- 
leon I. made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise. 

Notice the MarchS du Vendredi, a great square 
surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the politi- 
cal forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Van Artevelde. 
In the Cathedral of St. Bavon (open daily, except 
12-1) see the vast crypt, built in 991 and restored in 
1228 ; the noble nave and transepts (1533) ; and the 
tower, built in 1533-34 (416 steps; fee, 2 fr., 1-4 
persons). See the picture of "The Adoration of \\\q 
Spotless Lamb," by the brothers Van Eyck. Al- 
though more than 400 years old, it preserves its bril- 
liancy of coloring. Here also is a chef-d'oRuvre of 
Kubens. Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament 



210 GHENT. -- MECHLIN. 

ibe choir. The Hotel de Ville, built 1481-1628, is a 
remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, whose E, 
facade is very striking. The Belfri/, built 1183-1339, 
whose bells assembled the citizens, is 386 ft. high, and 
commands an extensive prospect over Planders (ascent, 
2 fr.). There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro- 
land. The Beguinage, the chief curiosity in Ghent, is 
a community of women who are not bound by vows, 
but live by their own labors or resources. This insti- 
tution of secular saints had its origin in the 7th century. 
The old Grand Beguinage formed a separate quarter of 
the city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 convents 
and 100 houses. The new suburban one has many 
handsome Gothic houses, and a vast ch. 600 women 
live here, and make rich laces. See Si. Jacques Ch. ; 
St. Nicholas and St. Michael, crowded with pictures; 
Bt. Piei-re, with rare old paintings ; the imposing PaUfis 
de Justice ; the University, with a splendid marble 
rotunda, and a library in old Baudeloo Monastoiy 
(100,000 vols.) ; and the Museum {\ fr.). The Oudehurg 
is a remnant of the old palace of the Counts of Tlandeis, 
where John of Gaunt was born, 1340. On Mare he 
<lu Vendredi is an old cannon, such as stone missiles 
were fired from. See Botanical Garden (Ghent is 
called ' ' The Queen of Flowers "); Zoological Garden 
(fee, Ifr.); ruitis ot Abbey of St. Bavon. Fares fnwi 
Ghent to Brussels, 4fr. 35c., 3fr. 25c., 2fr. .§0c. 

From Brussels to Antiverp trains run in 1 hr., pass- 
ing Malines, or Mechlin (Lo^ Cigogne; Beffer; de 'a 
iJouroitne), a eitj or 40,000 inhjib., the ecelfsinstiz-al 
capital of Belgium In 1572-80 the town was sael.od 
nnd burned by the Spaniards, the troops of the Pri i ie 
of Orange, and ihe English. See the Cathedral of i. 'I. 
IiomboId,heg\in in 1451. Imposing interior and car ^ jd 
pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a spier? t! id 



BELGIUM. 211 

«liime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The 
Crucifixion, by Van Dyck. In Notre Dame is 
Hubens's Miraculous Draught of Fislies (1 fr.). IwSL 
Jean, is a fine Triptych by Uubeus (iiV.). Mecliliu is 
renowned for its beautiful lace. 

Antwerp {Hotel tit. Aatouie; Grand; Commerce; 
du JlMn; d'Avgleterre; De FEurope; Grand La- 
dourem- ; Be la Palx) is one of the mostflourishmg com^ 
mercial towns in Europe (340,000 inhab.), and one of 
the quaintest and most replete with historical and artis- 
tic interest. Napoleon I. wished to make Antwerp 
a great maritime arsenal, and built vast docks; 
but the Antwerp people have constructed others 
yet more vast. -Climb the Cathedral Tower (75 c), 
and look over the crowded Scheldt, and over the Low 
Countries from Breda to Brussels. The Cathedral 
(built 1352-1530) is the most imposing ch. in Belgium 
(open daily, except 12-4). When closed, ask porter 
for keys (Ifr.). The majestic interior (384 ft. long, 
130 ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 6 rows of 
columns. Choir built 1352-1411. Philip 11. once 
held a Chapter of the Order of the Golden Eleece here. 
In 1566 the Iconoclasts did irreparable damage. (See 
Motley's " Dutch Republic," for romantic episodes in. 
Antwerp's history.) In the r. transept is Bubens's 
Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In the 1. 
transept is Bubens's The Elevation of the Cross. Above 
the high altar is The Assumption, also by Rubens. 
See stone outside with the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, 
and the sculptured pulpit and tabernacles. The mag- 
nificent tower is 402 ft. high (finished 1530) ; tiie 
chimes have 99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to 
Mechlin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron 
well-canopy made by Quentin Matsys. St. Paul, 
St. Andrew, and St. Antoine contain rare old Flemish 
paintings. The CL of St. Jacques (built 1429-1507) 



212 ROTTERDAM. 

contains the tomb of Rubens, and many good pictures 
and sculptures (small fee). JSt.Augusti?ie has pictures 
: by Rubens, Van Dyck, etc. The Motel de Ville, built 
i in 1561-65, contains splendid mural paintings (done 
! in 1864-69) in the Salle Leys. Many old Guild houses 
i (1513-79) near by. Visit the beautiful new Gothic 
' jBourse ; the Palais de Justice ; and the House of 
\ Mubens (Rue Rubens), where the painter died. The 
i Museum (open daily, 9-5) is the best in Belgium : 70O 
I paintings here, with many Rubenses and Van Dycks 
(catalogue, 3^ fr.). For notable private collections 
inquire here. The new Boulevards, on the site of the 
walls ; the vast docks, quays, and warehouses ; the 
Park: and the statues of Rubens, King Leopold I.^ 
Van Dyck, and Teniers, are worth seeing. The Cita- 
del and fortifications are interesting. 

Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice 
weekly, in 9 hours; fares, 5 fr. 30 c, 3 fr. 20 c. •To 
London, Sun., Wed., and Fri., 34 fr. To London 
via Harwich, daily, 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 c. Regular 
departures for all the great ports of the world. 



HOLLAND. 



rpHE tourist may very pleasantly and profitably 
"*• spend 2-3 days in Holland. Go from Ant- 
werp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 10 fr, 45c., 7 fr. 70c., 4 fr. 
90c.) to 

Rotterdam (3Iaas; Leygraaf; Weimar; Coomans; 
d,e Hollande; de V Europe; Victoria), the second city 
in Holland (200,000 inhabitants). The Maas is here 
navigable for the largest ships ; and the scene on the 
quay is very animated. Superb docks, and many 
canals. The steamboats land passengers near the 



HOLLAND. 213 

Boompjes quay. Here stood the Dutch East India 
House, now turned into colonial warehouses. Rot- 
terdam builds many ships; has a heavy trade with 
Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London and 
other Atlantic ports ; and is a great point for the 
departure of emigrants for America. The canals are 
bordered with trees, and the suburbs are pleasing. 
The Hoogstraat, the Willemskade, the new quay, are 
worth seeing. The Iluseum (open daily, 11-3 ; i fr.) 
has fine examples of Rembrandt, Rubens-, Durer, 
Wouvermans, and Ary Scheifer. In the Oroote-Kerk 
is a noble organ ; also monuments of several famous 
admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 feet high 
(60 c.). The Old Ch., the S, Oh., the new Town 
Hall, the Exchange, the Botanical Gardens, the 
Zoological Gardens, may be easily seen in an after- 
noon. The statue of Erasmus stands in the Groote- 
Markt; and on the house which was his birthplace 
is the inscription, Hcgc est parva domus, magnus qud 
natus Erasmus. The Neiv Park is W. of the town. 
Walk along the Maas, noting the peculiar costume 
of the peasantry and the singular neatness of the 
houses. From Rotterdam to the Hague takes ^ hr. 

(fares, 1 fl. 20 c, 1 il. 60 c). On this route is 
Schiedam, renowned for its distilleries (see Hotel de 

Ville Siiid Exchange) ; and Delft {Motel Luhrechts) , 
a very ancient Dutch town, once famous for porce- 
lain, but now dull and dignified. The staircase on 
which William of Orange was shot (1584) is still 
shown. It was from Delft that the Pilgrims embarked 
for Plymouth, America (1620). In the Oude Kerk^ 
see the tomb of Admirals Van Tromp (1653), Hein,. 
etc. In the Niemve Kerk (1412-76) is the magnificent 
Mausoleum of William of Orange. 
The Hague {Hotel Bellevue; d,eslndes; de V Europe; 

VieuxDoelen; Central), beautifully situated {Oude 
Boelen), the capital of Holland (156,000 inhab ), is 



214 THE HAGUE. — SCHEVENINGEN. 

in summer one of the most cliarming places in Eui\)pe. 
It nestles in a delightful forest, where all the charcicter- 
istics of Dutch scenery — mossy trees, green banks, and 
winding brooks and canals — appear. The Museum (open 
free daily, 9-3 ; Sat., 10-1 ; catalogue, 50 c.) contains 
the very best examples of the Dutch school of art, and 
many other celebrated paintings, — Paul Potter's famous 
Bull, Rembcandt's School of Anatomy, the Presenta- 
tion in the Temple, etc. On the E. is a statue of TFil- 
liam the Silent (1848). Li the Buitenhof, statue of 
William II. Opposite the Royal Palace, equestrian 
statue of Prince Yv^illiam I. See the Marine Museum, 
with its wonderful collection of models for shij^s ; the 
Royal Library (100,000 vols.) ; the collection of 40,000 
coins and medals; the Groote Kerk, with its beautiful 
tombs ; tlie Kloster Kerk ; the New Ch., where Spinoza 
is buried. The ponderous old Binnenhof Palace and 
the Buitenhof square are of great historic interest. 
Tlie Grand Council now holds its sessions in the an- 
cient torture-room. Beyond the Buitenhof you reach 
the gloomy Gevangenport tower, where De Witt was 
slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the grand Na- 
tional Monument (built 1863-69), covered with statues. 
The national buildings are plain and substantial. On 
the Noordeinde is the Royal Palace, and the old Mu- 
seum of King William II. Prince Frederick's Palace 
is not far from the Park. See the pretty royal villa 
called Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with 
treasures of art (fee, Ifl.). From the Hotel Bellevue, 
steam tramway (2^3 M.) to the pretty seaside resort 
of Scheveningen {Grand Hotel des Bains, prices mod- 
erate), a fishing-village among the dunes. In summer, 
the fashionable world of North Germany, Holland, and 
England, and many people from the S., assemble here 
Beautiful sea views and fine forests. Ley den and Haar^ 



HOLLAND. 215 

Urn may be visited between The Hague and Amster- 
dam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 fl., 3 fl. 5c., 2 fl. ; ta 
Leyden, 80 c, , 60 c. , 40 c. ; from Leyden to Haarlem, 
Iflo. 40 c.; Ifl., 10 c, 70 c.). 

Leyden {Hotel Levedag ; Lion d'Or; Central: 
40,000 inliab., famous for the great siege (see Mot- 
ley). It possessed 100,000 weavers. Leading ob- 
jects of interest; the spacious Hooglandsche Kerk; the 
Natural History Museum (open daily, free), with the 
finest cabinet of anatomy in Europe (open daily, 2-5, 
except Sun.); the Museum of Antiquities (open free 
Sun., 12-7, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 11-4) ; the Jap- 
anese M-useum (open dail}^ 50 c.) ; the Numismatis 
(open daily, 12-3) ; the ' University (600 students), 
founded after the siege, with excellent observatory ; 
Library, 3,000 oriental MSS. (open Mod., Wed., 
and Sat., 12-3) ; the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies 
plants) ; and the old Castle of Brnsus. The Hr.el de 
Ville lias many inscriptions relative to the siege of 
1574. 

Haarlem (Llo?i d'Or ; Fi'uicldPT ; Leevirerik) is 
a town of 28,000 inhab. ^Mie siego by the Span- 
iards in 1572, and the heroic defense, are ' de- 
scribed in Motley's picturesque history. The CatJie- 
dral is very spacious ; 28 columns in the nave. The 
vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played Tues. and 
Thurs., 1-2 ; at other times 12 fl. for a party. Visit 
the interior. Marble crypt under the organ. From 
the tower extensive view. See the Teyler Museum ; 
the statue of Coster, inventor of printing with metal 
types ; Costs fs House ; the Museum of Natural His- 
tory ; and the house of the rich banker, Hope. 

Amsterdam {Amstel; Pays B as; OldBiUe; Brack's 
Doelen; Bondeel ; Americain; Palais Poyal) is a 
city of 400,000 inhab., named from the Amstel, 
an inlet of the Zuider Zee, communicating with 
rhe North Sea by the N. Holland Canal, 50 M„ 



216 AMSTERDAM. 

long, the most gigantic undertaking at the time ever 
executed. It commences opj osite Amsterdam, and ex- 
tends to the Helder and the'. Texel ; cost 15,000,000. 
The town is built upon piles driven into the sand. ' Its 
canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges. The 
finest vievr is from the Hooge 8luys. Near by is St. 
Anthony's Gate, with 5 towers (built 1488-1585). The 
Palace is a huge stone structure, standing on 13.695 
piles. Near it are the Dam, the memorial of 1831,' the 
Exchange, the Fost-Office, the Nieuwe Kerk, the Sea- 
man's Club. From the tower, one has a magnifi- 
cent panorama of the city. Fine marble sculp- 
tures on the palace front. The Throne Hall, the 
Grand Hall, decorated with trophies, and the Au- 
dience Hall, are remarkable (fee, 50 c). The Botan- 
ical and Zoological Gardens (latter, 75 c.) are equal to 
those of any other city. The principal museum (n-ce 
daily, 10-3), the Trippenhuis, has the best collection of 
paintings in Holland (get catalogue). Note the works 
of Rembrandt. This and the Vanderhoof collection are 
now in Ryhs Museum . The Oude Mannenhuis is open, 
10-4. The Fodor Museum has very good French and 
Dutch pictures. The Historical Gallery is devoted to 
episodes in Dutch history (open daily, 50c.; catalogue 
75 c). See Vos Museum ; statue of Rembrandt ; monu- 
ment to Yan Speyk ; Blind Asylum ; Zeemanshoop 
(Sailors' Hope), a club with 2,000 members; Normal 
School of Navigation ; Sailor's Home; great range of 
state warehouses, on Entrepot Dock ; Park, good music 
on Sun. ; shops where diamonds are polished ; Jewish 
quarter J Cellidar Prison; and Crystal Palace. Am- 
sterdam is the cleanest city in Europe ; on a bright 
Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. Notice the 
Fountain, commemorating the events in 1830-31 lu 
the old ch on the Dam, monument to Van Ruyter, 



UTRECHT. 21 r 

Pleasant excursions to Barmen, and other pretty sub- 
urban towns. Broek, 6 M. out, is a wonderfully cleaa 
village. At Zaandam is the house where Peter the 
Great worked when learning the shipwright's trade. 
Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M. ; fares, 1 11. 
70 c., 1 fl. 25 c., 85 c.) from Amsterdam to 

Utrecht {Kasteel van Aniwerpen; Pays Bas ; de 
V Europe; de la Station), the Koman Trajedum^ and 
the home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble 
Cailiedral here; constructed in the 13th century, 
and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts. 
The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower^ 
821 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the- 
church, fine organ and magnificent mausoleums. 
South of the cathedral is the Unioersity, founded 
in 1686, very rich ; 600 students ; splendid li- 
brary and remarkable Ifuseum of Natural His- 
tory. The Palace of the Popes, founded by 
Adrian VI., with a statue of St. Salvador, is now 
the palace of the provincial government. Adrian waS' 
born in Utrecht. In the Siadhuis are a few pictures., 
i'ine new boulevards around the city. 

From Utrecht you can begin your journey up the' 
Khine. Take rail to Diisseldorf, passing Arnhem, thj 
Arenacum of the ancients. The Uomans encamped 
here 70 years B.C., and it was for a long time the resi- 
dence of the Dukes c' Guelders. See the Cathedral y 
with tomb of Count Egmont. Tower, 330 ft. high '^ 
wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has a fine: 
court-room. Emmericli {Jlotel de Hollande) is ih^ 
first Germaa town* 



•218 DiJSSELDORF. — COLOGNE. 



GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. 

FROM Utrecht to Emmerich, 4 fl. 50 c, 3 fl. 40 e.^ 
2 il. 25 c. J 541 M. From Emmerich to Mssel' 
dorf, fares,, 7 mks. 60 pf., 5 inks. 70 pf., 3 mks. 80 pf. ; 
-to Cologne^ 11 inks. 20 pf., 8 mks. 40 pf., 5 mks. 
4)0 pf.; to Eiaukfort, 28 mks. 80'pf., 21 mks. 20 pf., 
13 mks. 50 pf. 

Diisseldorf {Breicle7ibaclier ITof ; Royal; Heck; 
jRomischerKaise7'),gicitj ot210MQ iiihab. , is the prin- 
cipal art-centre on the Rhine. The Academy of Arts 
was founded in 1767 ; it occupies Renaissance build- 
ing erected in 1879; contains lecture-halls, studios, 
etc. Here, also, are the remains of the famous 
Oallery of Art, and many drawings, of all schools 
<open Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat., 12-1). Handsome 
Rhine Bridge; Ho f gar ten, next to Pempelfurtergarten 
^now Malkasten Club), haunts of GoeLhe and Herder. 
€h. of St. Lambert contains the tombs of the last 
Dukes of Cleve and Berg, and a good picture by 
Achenbach. >S'^. Andrew's is very interesting. In the 
iiall of the Realschule is a freize by Bendemann. In 
the Courts of Justice see Schadow's " Heaven, Hell, 
and Purgatory." Many fine modern paintings in the 
Kunstlialle. See statues of Elector John William III. , 
Cornelius, Emperor William I., Bismarck. Museum 
of Industry and Art will repay visit. Several exhi- 
-bitions of pictures in the town; fees, 50 pf. It is ^-f 
iir. by rly., or by boat 5 hrs., to 

Cologne {Hotel du Nord; Disch; Kolner Hof; 

Victoria; Du Dome; Ernst), the sixth town in the 

Crerman Empire (360,000 inhab.), and an important 

jgarrison. Streets are dark, narrow and mediaeval. 

Many houses date from the 13th century, 70 wide 



COLOGNE. 21^' 

streets have lately loeen laid out. Cologne v,'as founclefl 
by the Ubii, Avlicn xlgrippa transferretr them to the 1. 
bank of tlie K-hiiie ; and colonized by Ptoman veterans- 
when Germanicus held command, as CoJonla Agripphm. 
It was the residence of the legates of Lower Germany. 
Constantine the Great built a bridge here in SOSg. 
afterwards destroyed by the Normans. From the 5tb 
century it was a part of the Frankish kingdom. Extent 
sive Roman remains here. 

The Cathedral, the grandesi Gothic building in the 
world, was begun in 1248. The choir was consecrated 
in 1322, and the nave in 1388; but about 1500 the 
work ceased, and in 1795 the Erench troops used tlie 
half-ruinous eh. for a hay-magazine. Construction was 
resumed in 1823, and more than $3,000,000 spent 
upon it between 1842 and 1880, when it was consecrated, 
with imposing ceremonies, Tlie superb JF.fcfgade and 
lofty portals are Hanked by 2 huge towers, crowned- 
by open spires, over 500 ft. high. The iDells were 
placed in the S. tower in 1447; and in 1874 a new 
30-ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. A 
forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and aisles. 
The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 201 ft. ; height of 
nave, 145 ft. There are 4 aisles ; and the triple-aisled 
transepts extend to the imposing N. and 8. portals. 
There are 56 vast cokimns inside. The stained win* 
dows in the N. aisle date from 1508-9 ; those in the 
S. aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 1848^ 
The Choir contains 14th-century statues of the 12 
Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls, ancient stained^ 
Avindows, modern fresces of angel-choirs, modern tap- 
estries, and 7 wonderful chapels, with venerable tomb? 
of the archbishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The- 
reliquary iii the Chapel of tJie Three I\ijigf< contains- 
the bones of the Magi, carried to Constantinople by^ 



'220 COLOGNE. 

the Empress Helena, thence to Milan, and pressnted 
by Barbarossa to Cologne's archbishop in 1164. TiiSt 
lieart of Marie de Medicis is buried here. The Ijibrary 
contains Hildebald's precious MSS. ; and many deeply 
interesting rehcs are in the Treasury and in the Archu 
episcopal Museum, S. of the eh. See inner and outer 
galleries of the choir. The ch. is open all day, but 
Walking about is not allowed during service. 

Over the rly. -bridge are equestrian statues of Fred- 
-erick William IV. and Yvilliam I. W. of the Cathedral 
Is the great Gothic Museum (open 9-4, 50 pf.) with 
many hundred paintings, and very interesting Koman 
^nd mediaeval rehcs. In the adjacent Mitwrites' Ch.^ 
Duns Scotus is buried. Beautiful Gothic cloisters. 
St. Gereon's Ch. (fee, 1 mk.), contains the bones of the? 
Theban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Diocletian. 
Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be seen in the choir. 
Curious crypt. In Si. Ursula is the tomb of that 
unhappy princess, who, with her 11,000 virgin com- 
panions, was massacred at Cologne on her return from 
Kome. The ch. (5th century; restored) has a Gothic 
portal. You are shown the bones of the martyrs in all 
parts of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, \\ mk.) is St. 
Ursula's Reliquary. Great St. Martin has a majestic 
tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, given by Pope 
Leo II. Sta. Maria-Im-Capiiol, consecrated in 10l9 
by Pope Leo IX., is an imposing Horvianesque ch. St. 
Peter has an altar-piece by Rubens. iSt. Cecilia dates 
from 1200. The Apostles' Ch. (1200) has a picturesque 
choir. St. Cunibert (1248) has rich frescos and glass. 

See the Gurzenieh; the Roman Tower ; the house in 
which Marie de Medicis died in exile and poverty ; the 
Monument to Frederick William III., surrounded by 
«tatues of statesmen and generals who relieved the 
Khine from French domination ; and the brou/e statue 



AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 221 

of Bismarck. The Rathliaus (13tli century) has tha 
Lion's Court, and the quaint liall in wliich tlie first Diet 
of the Planseatic League was held. See Botanic and 
Zoological Gardens, and the man}^ "original and only'* 
shops where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold. 

l^hr. from Cologne (fares, 6mks., 4|mks., 3mks.), 
on the routes to Belgium and Paris, is Aix-la-Clia- 
pelle {Hotel Grand Monarqve ; Nvellens ; De VEm- 
pereiir ; Bellevue ; Dragon d'Or), the Aachen of the 
Germans and the Aquisgratinm of the Romans. This 
was the favorite residence of Charlemagne, and here he 
died in 814. Aix was at one time the capital of all the 
country N. of the Alps, 37 German emperors were 
crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets were 
lield here. The modern town is handsome, willi the 
characteristics of a watering-place. The warm SnJphur 
Springs were renowned in the Roman era, and wonder- 
ful cures are still effected by them. The most impor- 
tant is the Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenhrmmen crowds 
assemble daily in summer to drink the waters. The 
Kurhaus has a superb concert-hall (fee, 50 pf.), Li 
the Market-place is a fountain, with statue of Charle- 
magne. The great Cathedral is in two sections : the 
quaint-roofed Byzantine octagon (in the style of San 
Vitale, at Ravenna), built by Charlemagne, 796-804, 
and consecrated b|r Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir, 
in the best Gothic style (1353-1413). The octagon 
contains many fine columns, brought from Rome and 
Ravenna ; bronze doors, cast in 804 ; and the pulpit, 
rich in gold and gems, presented by Henry II. See 
the stained windows, designed by Cornelius ; and the 
14th-century statues. The tomb of Charlemagne was 
opened by Otho III. in 1000 ; and by Barbarossa in 
1165-^ when the body was removed from the marble 
thr-^^e on which it was seated, and placsd in a Parian 



S22 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE —BONN. 

sarcophagus. The throne (afterwards used in th? 
coronation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are noT» 
in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are en- 
shrined in the Treasury, where are also the girdles of 
Christ and Mary, a piece of the True Cross, etc. (Open 
daily, 9-1, 3-6 ; 3 mks, for 1-3 persons.) Notice the 
old Flemish paintings inside of the cabinets. Some of 
the holy treasures, such as the swaddling-clothes of the 
infant Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years. 

The Rathhaus was built out of tlie debris of the pal- 
ace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). Tlie JJall of 
the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble frescos. The Warriors' 
Monument commemorates the soldiers slain in 1866 and 
1870-71 . Suermondt Iluseum has some good pictures. 

Up the Rhine by Steamer. , '" 

The journey can be made in 1 day from Cologne iQ> 
Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, stopping at 
Coblence. There is a rly. on either bank, but the steam- 
boat is preferable. If, however, you wish to go from 
Cologne to Frankfort by rail, you can do so in 4 hrs. 
(fares, 12 mks., 9 mks., 6 mks.). By steamboat (large 
and fine boats) the fares fi-om Cologne to Coblence are 

3 mks. 60 pf., 2 mks. 40 pf. ; by the express boat the 
fare is 3 mks. 70 pf. From Coblence to Mayence, 3 mks. 
70 pf., 2|mks. ; by express boat, 4^ mks. Through 
rickets allow stopping off, but be careful to resume the 
journey by the boats of the same company. You can 
''ake rail from Cologne to Bonn (21 M.; fares, 2^ mks.. 
If mks., 1 mk. 30 pf.) ; from Cologne to Coblence 
7 mks. 70 pf., 5 mks. 60 pf , 3 mks. 90 pf ) ; from Co- 
blence to Frankfort (10 mks. 40 pf , 6 mks. 90 pf., 

4 mks. 40 pf). 

Bonn {Goldener Stem, capital hoase; DuNord; 
Kley ; Royal; Rheirteck) lias a beauiilui lucaLion.. 



UP THE RHINE. 223 

Just beyond, the banks .become bold and pre- 
cipitous, and the beauties of the famous stream 
begin. The University occupies the old castle, 
built in 1717-30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft. 
long. It has a library of 250,000 vols.; museums 
of Roman and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts 
(75 pf. each ; catalogues for sale). See bronze 
sLatue of Beetlioveu in the Miinsterplatz. The Ca- 
tiiedral, founded by the mother of Constantiue, is a 
cruciform basilica, with two choirs and a high octagonal 
tower. Bronze statue of the Empress Helena inside. 
Beethoven's birthplace is in the Bonngasse. The Pop-r 
pelsdorfer Schloss, reached by a quadruple avenue ot 
horse-chestnuts ^ M. long, contains a very large natural- 
history collection (fee, 75 pf.). Chemical Laboratory 
near by. The Anatomie, a noble edifice, finished in 
1873, is not far olf. Beyond Poppelsdorf is the Kreuz. 
berg, 400 ft. higli, on which is a cli. containing the 
Eoly Staircase, built in imitation of that at Home, and 
to be mounted on the knees only. Bonn was the Gas- 
tra Bonnensia of Tacitus, a great Boman fortress. It 
has suffered terrible sieges. The Coblenzerstrasse is very 
handsome. The Provincial Museum, and the House of 
J-m^Z^ are interesting. On the Alte Zoll is the Moiiument 
toArndt. In the cemetery are buried Niebuhrthe Ills- 
tori an, Schlegel, Robert Schumann, Arndt, and Voe 
Bunsen. 

Kdnigswinter (jffi»/e/ de V Europe ; Matters; 
Rieffel; MonopoT), on the E. bank of the Rhine, is 
the point whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The 
Drachenfels (916ft high) may be ascended don- 
key back, in carriages, or by cog-wheel rail- 
jway. Half-way up is the far- viewing tower on 
the Ilirschherg. To the W. is the Monument 
n memory of the events of 1813-15. The Castle 
tauds near the Terrace (where there is a good 



224 ROLANPSECK. — NONNENWERTH. 

iiolel). It was built about 1100 by tlie first archbishop 
of Cologue, and takes its uame from a dragon slaiu 
there by Siegfried, the Niebeluugeu hero. The red 
wine made from its vineyards is called Dragon's Blood. 
The castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria, after 
a long siege. Ruins still magnificent. Superb view 
of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs behind Remageu, 
Oberwinter, the ruins of Rolandseck, Bonn, and Co- 
logne. See the cavern where the fabled dragon had 
his abode. An excursion may be made to the Oelberg, 
the view from which is the most extensive in the Rhine- 
land, Thence it is 1^ hr, to Heisierhach, an old Cis. 
tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is left of 
the magnificent ch., built about 1200. From the Oel. 
berg, the Lowenhurff (1,504 ft.), a castle where the 
Elector of Cologne had interviews with Melancthou 
before becoming a Protestant, may be reached. Fine 
view. Return from Heisterbach to Kouigswinter in | hr. 
by the Feter^berg, whence good view. Kouigswinter is 
aear most charming scenery. 

The boat touches at Rolandseck {^dtel Roland- 
seek; Victoria; Decker; Belhvue), -I hr above Ko- 
uigswinter. From restaurant at the railway sta- 
tion, tine view of the Seven Mts., and the Riiine 
?o Remagen, Rolandseck is a very popular sum- 
rnor-resort. Ruined Castle stands on a basalt 
rock. 347 ft. above the Rhine. It was founded 
by Roland, the Paladin of Charlemagne, who died at 
Roncesvalles. The island of Nonnenwerth, where 
stands the convent in which the beautiful Hildegnrde 
is said to have taken the veil when she heard that 
Roland had perished in Spain, may be reached by a 
small boat (return-fare, 1 mk.). This convent is men- 
tioned in a document of the 12th century. It was sap- 
pressed in 1S02, reconsecrated in 1845, and closed 
"tgaiu \u 1876. See Bulwer's J^ilgrims of the Rhiue^ 



UP THE RHINE. 325 

and Schiller's ballad of Ritter Toggenhurg. At Rhei7i- 
hreitbach (W. bank) is a lai-ge town, with towers, at 
the entrance of a valley tillod with copper-mines. At 
U7ikel (W. bank) the cUffs stand out into the bed of 
the stream, producing a rapid. Just above is 

Remagen {Motel Fur stenherg ; Koning von Preus- 
sen; Rhein; Anker), noticeable for its cimrch on 
the Apollinarisherg (a hill to the N.), a pretty 
Gothic edifice with four towers, entirely modern, on 
on the site of an old pilg-rimage-shrine of the Middle 
Ages. It was built by Zwirner, architect of Cologne 
Cathedral, and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces 
of modern German art(open 7 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; Sun, after 
10; fee, 30pf.). The legend states that when the Arch- 
bishop of Cologne was descending the Rhine (in 1164) 
with the bones of the Magi and the head of St. Apol- 
iinaris, Bishop of Ravenna, his boat was stopped here, 
by some mysterious power, until the latter was placed 
in the chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman 
town (Rigomagus) , but lost its importance in the 
Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions thence, 
between bold basaltic hills, up the Valley of the Ahr, 
where 4,000,000 bots. of red wine are produced yearly. 
It is 7 M. (carriage, 4 mks.) to the Baths of Neueuahrj 
a charming watering-place, with warm alkali springs, 
used for lung and liver diseases. Ahriveiler, a quaint 
little walled town, has fine view from Calvarienberg. 
Ruined castles and pretty villages abound. 

Opposite Remagen, over Erpel (E. bank) is a basaltic 
cliff 643 ft. high. Linz ( Weinstoch ) is an ancient 
town on the W. bank, with walls and pavements of 
basalt, and a 13th-century Romanesque eh., contain- 
ing a triptych of the ancient Cologne school of art. 
The adjacent hills have interesting basalt-quarries, 
and crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic and 
Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels castle, above 



22Q HAMMERSTEIN. — ANDERNACH. 

Xiuz, lately restored, 1ms an ancient round tower, and, 
ju the Kniglits' Hall, a collection of armor. Rheineck 
(W. bank), tlie boundary between the upper and lower 
lllienisli districts, is a lofty Romanesque castle on tlie 
site (raid wiili a tower) of tlie fortress of the Rheinacli 
family, founded in the 12th century. It may be visited 
from £ro/d Q lir.), and has some fine paintings (fee, 
50-75 pf.) and a superb view. It was sacked by the 
iFrench in 1689 and by troops of Cologne in 1692. 
[Farther up, near Brolil, is Kammerstein, a 10th-cen- 
tury castle, where Henry IV. took refuge from his sons, 
and which w^as held, during the Thirty Years' War, by 
Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrainers. In 1660 
the Archbishop of Cologne destroyed this too powerful 
neighbor. Roman ruins 4 M. E. 

Aiidernach {Hotel Hackenbruch ; Gloche), on the 
W. bank, has narrow streets, ancient walls, a mauy- 
toAvered Romanesque ch. (1306), and a lofty watch- 
toM'er, built in 1414-68, and breached by French guns 
in 1688, It w^as one of the 50 forts of Drusus ; re- 
captured from the Alemamii by Julian in 339 ; a 
royal rrancouiau residence in the 6tli century ; an im-» 
pcrial town later ; stormed by Cologne troops hi 1496 ; 
and burned by the French in 1688. The deep moat 
and massive towers of the castle remain (see Long- 
fellow's i^^7J(?r/oy^). Tramway to the Benedictine Abbey 
of Laach, i'ounded in 1093, with magnificent Roman- 
esque ch. and cloisters, on the vast crater-lake of the 
Laacher See (6 M. around). 

The Rhine now flow^s throngli a defile, between 
ruii'ged heights. ^ewyivieA^ {Goldener Anker; 
Wilder Mann; Moravian), on the E., has the' 
palace and park of the Prince of Wied, and a com- 1 
inanity of austere Moravian Brethren, with admira- 
ble schools and workshops. Monrepos is a chateau 
of the Prince, near by ; and AUioied] ^l M. out (car- 



UP THE RHINE. 22T 

riage, 4 mks.), is a picturesque ruined castle. "Weissen* 
thurm is opposite Neuwied, with a wliite watcli-tower 
marking tlie boundaries of Treves and Cologne. Above 
is an obelisk to General Hoche, erected by a Erench 
army crossing the Rhine in 1797. Near Engers (E. 
bank) are fragments of Roman masonry, supposed to 
be parts of Julius Caesar's bridge across the Rhine (see 
Commentaries). Muhlhofen (E. bank) is \\ M. from 
the ruins of Sayn castle, and the great modern cha- 
teau of Sayn, rich in art, Kesselheim (W. bank) is 
near Schonbornslust, an old palace of the electors of 
Treves and of the exiled Bourbons, On Niederwerth 
island, where Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is 
an old convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber- 
rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are enlarged 
and strengthened, before drifting Hollandward. The 
high fortress of Ehrenbreitstein now comes into view, 
and the palace of the Prussian King. 

Coblenz {Giant; Bellevue ; Monopol; AnTcer ; 
Traube), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (40,000 
inhab.), is at tho confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, 
wheace the Romans called it Conjluentia . It is a p< )w- 
erfui fortress, with heights crossed with enormous forii- 
iications, and a garrison of 5,000 soldiers. The Pal/ce 
was built by the last Elector of Treves, and contains 
interesting Electoral Hall and Festival Hail, with por- 
traits, tapestries, etc. (fee, 25 pf.). Ttie Mainzer-Thor 
and others of the city gates are \vorthy of notice. St, 
Castor is a handsome 4-towered basiUca, founded in 
836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it is the historia 
Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 arches) dates 
from 1344. Monument of Emperor William I. at 
junction of Rhine and Moselle. Archiepiscopal Palace 
(now a factory) dates from 1276; the Liebfrauenkirche, 
from thR 13th century; the Merchants' Hall, from 



"228 EHRENBREITSTEIN. — EMS. 

,1480. The Rhitie Fromenade is a beautiful waterside 
park. Tiie Kiihkopf, 1,190 ft. high, commands a grand 
view over the Rhine and Moselle valleys. Fort Franz, 
on the Petersberg, and Forts Alexander and Comtantine 
(superb view hence) guard the city. Across the Uhine 
is Ehrenbreitstein, " Honor's Broad Stone " (open 
daily; small fees for ticket and to guide), "The Gibraltar 
of the Rhine," a vast fortress on a precipitous rock, 
387 ft. above the river, and commanding a wonderful 
vicAV. It was granted by King Dagobert to the arch- 
bishops of Treves in 636, and has been beleaguered 
many times, but yielded only twice. The Trench de- 
stroyed the works in 1801 ; but they were rebuilt, 
1816-36, at a cost of $6,000,000. 

Excursions from Coblence. — It is 1 hr.'s rly. ride 
(1^ mk., 1 mk., 70 pf.), or 7 M. walk from Ehrenbreitstein 
to Ems {Hotel d' Angleterre ; De Russie ; Des Quatre 
Eaisons ; Darmstadt), a little town on the Lahn, 
amid wooded heights, annually visited by 12,000 health- 
seekers (season, July 15-Sept. 1). The waters (saline 
and alkaline) are beneficial in pulmonary and female 
complaints, and have been used since 1354. ^ The Kur' 
Iiaus and Kursaal are the centre of the exotic life, and 
stand amid pleasant gardens. 

Up the Moselle, by steamer 117i M. (6 mks., 
4 mks.), 4 times weekly, in 1^ days, passing the night 
at Trarbach, and reaching Treves at 3 P.m. Yoyage 
back to Coblence, 12 hrs. (8 mks., 5 mks. 30 pf.). Rly. 
to Treves in 2^ hrs. (69| M. ; fares, 9 mks., 6 mks. 
80 pf., 4|mks.)' The valley of the Moselle is very 
beautiful, and interesting historically. Over Cohern is 
a Avonderful pilgrimage-chapel; over Brodenbach, the 
splendid Ehrenburg ruin; over Cochem, two fine 
castles and a monastery; over Trarbach, the ancient 
Grafinburg ; and near Nemnagen, Roman ruins. 



UP THE :.:0;L2LLE. 329 

Treves {Hotel de Treves ; Porta Nigra; Luxem- 
bourg; Stadt Venedig; Post), on the Moselle, was 
the capital of the Treviri ; then the Augusta 
Trevirorum of the Romarns ; then capital of Gaul, 
and Rome's rival in art and commerce. This oldest 
city of Germany has only 40,000 inhab.; although 
its Avell-preserved amphitheatre, in which Constantine 
delivered thousands of Franks to be torn by wild 
beasts (a.d. 806), accommodales 30,000 spectators. 
The vast ruins of the Roman Baths were connected 
with the Palace of the Emperors. Tlie Porta Nigra is a 
huge Roman gateway of blackened sandstone, 115 ft. 
long and 93 ft. liigli. ' The Cathedral dates from 550, — 
a vast structure, under whicli repose the archbishops 
and electors of Tieves. Here are preserved Christ's 
seamless robe, a nail from the Cross, a fragment of the 
CroAvn of Thorns. Cloisters run thence "to the Lieh" 
fraiienkirche, a beautiful circular ch. (1243). The 
Basilica, built before Constantine, successively a Ro- 
man court-liouse, exchange, imperial governors' palace, 
bishops' palace, and barrack, is now a ch. The Museum 
and Town Library contain rare MSS., portraits, and 
Roman antiquities. Rly. from Treves to Thionville 
and Luxembourg (| br.). * 

Ascending the Rhine from Coblenz, Capellen {EMel 
Stolzenfels ; Hotel Bellevue) is reached (W. bank), 
over which rises the royal castle of Stolzenfels (en- 
trance, 25pf. ; donkeys to ride up and back, Im. 20pf.), 
420 ft. above the Rhine, with a magnificent view. It 
was built in 1250 by the Archbishop of Treves, and 
inhabi ted by his successors. The French destroyed it 
in 1688; and since 1823 it has been restored by the 
Prussian King. Rich historical frescos in Chapel and 
Knights' Hall; many rare old pictures and curiosities. 

Oberlahnstein {Welter; Hinhorn), opp. Capellen 
(ferry every f hr., 10-20 pf.), near the lately restored 



230 BOPPAED. — ST. GOAR. 

castle oi Lahneck. Above Capellen is Konigsstuhl, 
where tlie 4 R-henisli Electors used to meet, in open 
air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. The Em- 
peror Charles IV. built a castle here in 1376. Earther 
up is Rhense (W.), with walls and a moat constructed 
by iJie Archbishop of Cologne in 1370. Brauhach is 
under Marksburg, an imposing castle 492 ft. above 
the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still uninjuref^ 
and inhabited. Old Swedish and Erench cannon here. 

"BoppSLTcd (Zmn Spiegel/ llirsch; Closmann; Wiein: 
Lange), on the W. bank, was a Celtic town ; forti- 
fied by the Eomans, and named Bodobriga ; 
headquarters of the 13th Legion ; seat of a lodge 
of Knights Templar ; and an Imperial town. The 
inner wall is Roman, the outer wall mediaeval ; 
and the two churches date from 1200 and 1500. 
The high-placed Marienberg, formerly a Benedictine 
nunnery, is now a water-cure. The situation is lovely, 
in a broad bend of the Rhine, above which the mts. 
recede, giving place to rich meadows and green fields. 
Opposite pretty Salzig, famous for cherries, are twin 
rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of Stern- 
berg and Liebensiein, to which attaches the legend of 
Conrad, Heiurich, and Hildegarde. Over Welmich (E.) 
rises the castle of Thurnherg, finished in 1363, and then 
derisively called The Mouse. 

The handsome old town of St. Goar (founded in 
570) is overlooked by the grandest ruin on the river, 
the famous Rheinfels, dating from 1345 ; besieged by 
26 Rhenish towns in 1255; held by the Erench, 
1758-63, 1794-97, and blown up by them ; and now 
royal property. St. Goarshause'n (steam-ferry to 
St. Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built in 
1393, and blown up by the Erench in 1804. Many 
charming excursions from either of these towns. The 
noble snd well-preserved ruin of Reichenberg castle* 



OBERWESEL — BACHARACH. 231 

(1280) is 3 M. E. The picturesque Stviss Valley is 
back of St. Goarshauseu. Above is the Lurlei rock, 
a precipice 433 ft. high, rising over whirlpools iu the 
deepest and narrowest part of the Rhine, and the fabled 
seat of a siren who lured sailors to death. Farther up 
are the Seven Virgins' rocks, with their ^rim legend. 

Oberwesel {Continental; Goldener Pfropfen- 
ziejier), on the W. ; a picturesque Roman town, rich ia 
wine and scenery ; beloved by artists, who haunt the 
gray old walls, the massive mediaeval towers, the 15th- 
ceutury Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old carvings and 
pictures, and the Chapel on the riverward wall, com- 
memorating a terrible deed in 1286. Above all, 
Schonburg, the lofty castle, the birthplace of Marshal 
Schomberg, who lies in Westminster Abbey. Tiiis 
maiiy-towered cradle of a race of warriors was de- 
mohshed by Louis XIA^'.'s troops in 1689. Caub, 
abounding in Avine (see statue of Bliicher) , is under 
the castle of Gutenfels, built in 1277, and destroyed 
in 1807. Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal fortress in 
the middle of the Rhine, built by Lewis of Bavaria 
about the year 1200. Thence he used to sM'oop down 
upon passing vessels, and exact tribute. Hereabouts, 
Bliicher's and York's Prussian and Russian armies 
crossed the Rhine, Jan. 1^ 1814. 

Bacharach(^d^«Z E'erhrecht,Bluchert7ial,Basttan) 
on the W. bank; a favorite resort; its wines, celebrated 
in Longfellow's Golden Legend, still entitle it to the 
name Ara Bucchi (altar of Bacchus), which the Middle- 
Ages men gave it. The great fire of 1872 destroyed 
many rare old houses ; but the gray walls, descenduig 
from Stalileck, still envelop the town : and the beau- 
tiful Gothic ruin of St. Werner's Ch., and the stately 
Romanesque St. Fetefs Church (now restored), still 
stand fast. Overbead ia Stahleck castle, the home 



232 LORCH. — BINGEN. 

of the Counts Palatine until 1265, besieged 8 timea 
by the French between 1620 and 1640, and blown up 
in 1689. Piirstenberg, another noble ruin, is near 
by. The robber-knights fired thence on tlie ship in 
■which Adolph of Nassau was descending to Aix-la- 
Chapelle, to be crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion 
up the narrow Steeg valley ; also to Kreuznach. 

Lorclj {Hotel WeibUr;' Krone), on E. bk. , the Roman 
Ldureacnm, has a Flamboyant 12th-century ch., with 
quaint monuments and fine bells. Near by, over the 
beviVs Ladder cliff, is Nollingen castle. Niederheim' 
hack (W. bank) is under Hohneck, or Heimhurg castle. 
Above is Sooneck castle, built in 1015 by the Arch- 
bishop of Mayence ; and Falkenburg, or the Beichen,' 
stein, destroyed as a robbers' nest by the Rhenish 
towns (1251), and again by Rudolph of Hapsburg, who 
Imng its knights from tlie windows. Rheinstein, 
farther up (W. baid<), is a picturesque castle, built be- 
fore 1279, and restored 1825-29 by Prmce Frederick 
of Prussia, who is buried here (entrance, ^nik.). 

Assmannshauson {Hotel Krone ; Rhein ; Reu- 
iershan; Niederwald; Lamm; Anker') on the E., 
exports aromatic red wine all over the world. Above 
is the rapid of the Binger Loch, where the raftsmen 
have hard work. Ehrenfeis (E. bank) is a high tower, 
built in 1210 by the Governor of the Rheingau, dam- 
aged by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the 
jd'rench in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes which 
produce the Riidesheim wine. Opposite Ehrenfeis, on 
quartz ledges in the stream, is the Mouse Tower, 
where, as legend tells, Archbishop llatto of Mayence 
was devoured alive by mice because he caused a crowd 
of famine-stricken peasants to be burned to death, com- 
parhig tliem to corn-destroying mice. 

Bin sen(Hotel Victoria ;BeUe'i>ve; Weisa^s Boss; d' An^ 
^leterre), under the heights at mouth of Nahe, amid 



METZ. 23S- 

cliaruiing scenery, where the Rhine bends around the 
Niederwaldy on which is the new National Monument^_ 
with huge bronze statues, etc. On the Bnisusberg are 
the ruins of ^opj?, once a Roman castle, destroyed by 
the French in 1G89. The Rochusberg (341 ft. liiglj> 
overlooks the beautiful Rheingau; the Niederwald, 
gives another ravishing view. Rly. from Riidesheint: 
to WiesbadeJi, Erankfort, Ems, and Nassau ; and from. 
Bingerbriick to Mayeuce, Coblence, Cologne, and 
Kreuznach [Oranienliof; Adler), a prettily situ- 
ated watering-place, where 6-8,000 persons go yearly 
for the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles. 

From Bingerbriick one can go, by the Erankfort-Paris- 
route, to Metz in 8-9 hrs. (fares, l/mks. 90 pf., 
13mks., 8 mks. 60 pf.), passing Kreuznach; Oherstein^ 
a beautiful village on the Nahe, devoted to poHshing 
agates ; NeunJcircheti ; and Saarbrueken, 3 M. N. of the- 
battle-ground of Spicheren (1870; carriage to field^, 
12 mks. Meta {Grand Hotel; Post; Be Metz; Be. 
Paris), a city of 63,000 inhab., on the Moselle, once the 
capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by Franca- 
in 1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a pro- 
longed siege, and several terrible battles near Gravelotte 
and Mars-Ja-Tour, on the W. (see local guides). Since^ 
then tlie victors have greatly extended the vast fortress. 
Visit interesting E. side of town. Tiie Cathedral is ar 
magnificent 13th century Gothic ch., with a tower- 
387ft. high. In front is a statue of Louis XIV.'&> 
Marshal Fabert. Statues of Marshal Ney and Emp,- 
William I on Esplanade, near Palace of Justice. 

Riidesheim (Rheinstein; Erhard; Barmstadti 
Jung)^ op. Bingen, has rich wines, far-viewing heights, 
wild legends, and a Roman fortress. Farther up 
ts Geisenheimf with monasteries and vineyards. Oa 
fee heights is Johannisberg, where, on the site of a^ 



^34 MAYENCE. 

Benedictine convent of 1106, tlie Abbot of Fulda built 

a castle, afterwards granted to Prince Metternicli_, and 

now amid the best vineyards on the Rhine, and com- 

ananding a superb view. Beautiful walks from Rii- 

.desheini hence, or to Eltville. The river scenery above 

Bill gen is less interesting, and many travellers go hence 

to Mayence by rail (f hr.; by steamer, 2| hrs.). Above 

Geisenlieini, v/ell in-sliore on the r., is huielheim, the 

site of Cliarlemagne's great palace. Eltville (on the 1} 

lias fine villas and venerable ruins, and is 4 M. from 

-che famous warm baths of Schlanyenbad. From Bic' 

.Mrich, rly. to Wiesbaden. Above is Petersau, where 

Louis the Pious, Charlemagne's son, died in 840. 

Mayence {Hotel de Hollande ; B' Anqleterre ; Rhein* 
48cher ; Pfalzer; Taunus; Germania), 78,000 inhab., 
and a strategic position, commanding confluence of 
Rhine and Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It w^as the 
'Roman Moguntiacum, fortified by Drusus (b.c. 14), and 
lieadquarters of the 14Lh and 22d Legions. The Cita- 
:del, on their camp-gromid, has a monument erected by 
his soldiers to Drusus, who died liere. Pope Zacharias 
■j(in 751) made St. Boniface, the Enghsh missionary. 
Archbishop of Mayence (the first German bishopric); 
and after 1250 " Golden Mayence " originated and 
headed the league of 100 Rhenish towns. ^ In 1462 
Archbishop Adolph killed the foremost citizens, and 
Mayence became a mere archiepiscopal town. The 
French republicans took it in 1792, and it was a 
French town for 17 years. In 1814 it became Hessian. 
The Cathedral, begun in 978, and 6 times burned and 
restored, is a vast structure, with domes and round 
-towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass gates 
(made in 1135). The interior is very grand, richly 
frescoed (by Veit), wnth choirs on E. (1175) and W. 
^1239), and 56 columns upholding the vaultinj? (op«l 



MAYEXCE. 235^ 

till 11.30, and 3-G). There are scores of fine old moim- 
meats, including- one to Fastrada, Cliarlemagnc's wife. 
The restored Cloiders, built in 1412, are the finest ire- 
W. German}^, and contain Schwanthalcr's monument 
to the j)ious minstrel lleinrich von Meissen (died 1318),, 
erected by the women of Mayence in 184-2. Thor- 
waldsen's statue of Gutenberg, the inventor of printings- 
stands near ihe Cathedral ; and the house in v.'hich he- 
was born is not far off. ^S"-^. Stephen's CIi. (1257-1318> 
and cloisters are on higli ground, and the tower overlooks- 
Majence. The Electoral Palace, built 1G27-78, and. 
used by the French for storing hay, is in the N. E. 
quarter, and contains r. rich museum (fee, 50 pf. Tues,- 
a-Qd Sat,, other days free) of Roman-Germanic relics, a 
library of 100,000 vols., and a Picture-Gallery of ^ 
rooms, with many fine old paintings (Titian, Murillo, 
Holbein, etc.). The Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite, 
was a Lodge of the Teutonic Order, and has an arsenal 
attached. There are charming walks along the river 
in the Esplanade, and in the Neue Anlage Park 
(restaurant) . An iron bridge crosses the Rhine from 
the Esplanade opposite the arsenal to Castel, a small 
but strongly fortified suburb. Here stood once a 
Roman bridge. 

A Run through North Germany. 

With Frankfort and Wiesbaden. 

The traveller should now determine whether to hasten ois 
to Switzerland, or (which is much better) spend a fcAV days ire 
Germany, going from Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and 
Berlin ; and thence down to Dresden, Prague, and Vienna ; 
returning to the Rhineland by Nuremberg, Munich, and 
Heidelberg. Tourists going direct to Switzerland may pass^ 
S. from Mayence, by Worms and Strashurg, to Basle, in 10- 
14 hrs., or by Darmstadt, Ileidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, au(f 
the Black Forest. 



!23(;> - RANKFORT-ON-THE-MA I^! . 

From Mayence it is | lir. hjrlj. (fares,, 2 mks. 95 pf.. 
1 mk. 95 pf., 1 ink. 30 pf.) to the Prussian city ot Frank-- 
;fort-on-the-Main {Frankfurter Hof ; i)e Russie : 
Union; JacoM; W Angleterre; Schwan; PariserJlo/), 
which has 253,000 inhab., and stands on a mountain- i 
girdled plain, Charlemagne held a council here in 794- 
-and later sovereigns granted high privileges. From 1356 
■;to 1806 this was the place of election for the German 
emperors (beginning Mdth Barbarossa), many of whom 
were crowned here. It was a free city from 1814 
to 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Prankfort is a 
'liandsome and agreeable place, with good society and 
^ast wealth. The ancient Romer, or Town Hall, con- 
tains the Emperors' Hall, and the room in which the 
electors met to choose the emperors. In front, the 
^coronation festivals were given. Up to 1800 no Jews 
were allowed on this square. See Cathedral (1238). 
historical Museum in Archives building and restored 
Ijeinvirandhaus (50pf ., Sun. & Wed. free). The bridge 
over Main (leading to Sachsenhausen)^ built 1342, has 
a statue of Charlemagne. The Saalhof has a chapel of 
the Carlovingian kings. The 'Exchange is a very hand- 
some modern building. The 13th-century chs. of St, 
Leonhard and Si. Nicholas are interesting. The house 
in which Goethe was born, and where he wrote JFerther, 
Is public property. His statue (with bas-reliefs) by 
Schwanthaler is near the Rossmarkt square ; and there 
is another in the Town Library (150,000 vols.). Thft 
^tadel Institute has a school of fine arts, collections of 
/engravings, drawings, and casts, and several hundred 
|)aintings of merit (open daily, 11-2; catalogue, 1 mk.). 
Bethmann's Museum contains Dannecker's Ariadne, 
etc. (open daily, 50-75 pf .). The Zeil is the mo.-^t bril- 
liant street in Frankfort. See Palm Garden, sculpture 
an ry. station, Opera-House, Natural History Museum, 



HOMBURG. — WIESBADEN. 237 

and Zoological Garden. The Judengasse quarter, 
where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462-1806, and 
where the Rothschilds originated, is being modernized. 
Chains and gates formerly closed the streets at even- 
liug and on Sundays, and no Jew was alioM^ed outside. 

From Frankfort it is f hr. by rly. (fares, 1 mk. 60 
pf. , 1 mk. 20 pf.) to Homburg ( Villa Furstenruhe) , 
Victoria; Bellevue; Du Pare; Adler; Be Russie), a 
celebrated watering-place on the Taunus Mts. Iron 
and saline springs in the superb gardens of the 
Kurhaus (library, reading-room, and tine saloons). 
Gambling was abolished here in 1870. See the castle 
of the Landgraves. If M. N. on the mts. is a massive 
Roman fort, built by Germanicus, and a remnant of the 
wall, 150 M. long, which protected the Rhincland. 

Prom Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. (fares, 3 mks. 40 pf., 
§1 mks., 1 mk. 45 pf.) to Wiesbaden {Nassauer Hqf 
Motel des Quatre Saisons; Kaiserhof; Rose; Adler)Mi 
the lovely valley of the Salzbach, on the vine and grove^ 
clad S. W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. 120,000 visitors 
annually partake of the warm saline waters, beneficial 
for rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions ihQ^Qfonfe.t 
cttiidi ; and the camps of the 'l4th and S2d Lcgioir 
were near by. The air is very healthy, and the town 
pretty. Back of the handsome Kursaal is an extensive 
park, the favorite resort of visitors. See the 2 palaces, 
the museum, and picture-gallery, the library, the Gov- 
ernment buildings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with 
its colossal statues. The Heidenmauer, N. W. of the 
town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long. Beautiful walks 
to Nerothal, Platte, and othei" environs. 

Frankfort to Ha7wver, Hamburg, and Bremen. 

From Frankfort a rly. runs N. W. across Hesse (5-8 
hrs.; fares, 16 mks., 12 mks., 8 mks.), byhigh-walled 
Friedberg ; the mineral springs of Nanheim ; the rlj. 



238 CASSEL. — HANOVER. — BRUNSWICK. 

junction of Giessen ; and historic Marburg, willi its- 
splendid chs, and castle; to Cassel {Nord ; Royal) ^ 
the beautiful old Hessian capital (70,000 inliab.), with 
its electoral palaces and vast Museum Friedericianum 
(200,000 vols. ; myriads of gems, mosaics, weapons, 
ivories, etc.). In the Bellevue castle is a gallery of 
several hundred fine old paintings. "Wilhelmshohe, 
4 M. distant, is a sumptuous palace, in a park famous 
for its fouiitains and cascades. Here Napoleon III. 
was imprisoned in 1870-71. 

Erom Cassel it is 4-5 hrs. (13 mks. 40 pf., 10 mks. 10 
pf.6mks.70pf.),byGottingen, famous for its univer- 
sity, to Hanover ( Victoria; Royal j Bristol), handsome 
city of 250,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since 
1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of 
the Hanoverian kings ; the Royal Library, of 170,000 
vols.; the handsome Theatre; i\\e Museums ; and nu- 
merous statues and monuments. N. W. is the imposing 
Palace of the Guelphs ; also, Herrenhausen, the subur- 
ban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty. Hano- 
ver is 10 hrs. from Hotterdam, on the route to Berlin ; 
and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, via. Brunswick (fares, 3 mks. 
80 pf., 2^ mks.) and Magdeburg. Brunswick {Schra- 
de/s Hotel ; Deuisches), the residence of the Duke of 
Brunswick, 125,000 inhab., has a mediaeval air, with 
its ancient Gothic Town Hall ; St. Martin's Ch., rich in 
carvings ; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Henry 
the Lion in 1172 ; the bronze Lion monument (1166) ; 
etc. The splendid new Ducal Palace is near the Ducat 
Museum, in which are 900 pictures, and countless other 
relics and curios. See° also the War Monum.ent and 
the Theatre. The fortifications have been replaced by 
promenades and gardens. Magdeburg {Central 
Hotel) on the Elbe, lias 220,000 inhab. , and a very cele* 
brated Cathedral Q208). Great cannon-foundry near," 



H AMBUE G. — BBEMEN. 2 3 1> 

From Hanover it is 112 M. (4-5 hrs ; fares 16 mks, 
80 pf., 12^ inks., 8 mks.) by Luneburg, with its ancient 
houses and clis,, to Hamburg {Hamburger Hof ; 
Mu?'ope; Kro7iprinz; Four Seasons; StreWs) , which 
has 670,000 inhab., and ranks next after London 
among the important seaports of Europe. It is on the. 
lower Elbe, and is the chief of the three Hanseatic " 
towns. Charlemagne founded a castle here (805),. 
and Louis the Pious an archbisliopric ; but the city is- 
now all modern. There are vast and crowded quays,, 
shipyards, rlys., docks, a busy Exchange, a Town Li- 
brary (250,000 vols.), museums, monuments, and a good 
Art Gallery, Tlie Binnen-Alster is a charming water- 
park, 1 M. around, surrounded by quays and prome- 
nades, hues of trees, and blocks of handsome houses 
and liotels, and enlivened by many pleasure-boats and 
groups of swans. 

Erom Hamburg, trains run S. W., 76 M. (2^ hrs.; fares, 
10| mlvs., 7f mks., 4f mks.), across a poor, ilat country^ 
to Bremen {Hillman's; Siedenb^irg; De V Europe; Du 
Nord), another great Hanseatic commercial town, oa 
the Weser River, with 148,000 inhab. See the richly 
decorated Rathliaus (1410) ; the frescoed Uathskeller, 
famous for wines ; the 11th-century Romanesque Cathe- 
dral ; the Kunsfhalle, with pictures ; the splendid new 
Gothic Exchange ; and colossal Roland statue (1412). 

Frankfort to Weimar^ Leipsie, and Berlin. 

Time required, 12-14 hrs. ; fares, 43 mks. 40 pf., 32 
mks. 60 pf., 22 mks. 40 pf This' route passes through 
Fulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs. 
reaches Eisenach {Grossherzog von Sachsen), the quiet 
town where Luther went to school. Near by is the 
Wartburg, a lofty jRomanesciuB castle, founded in 1070^ 



3dO GOTHA. - WEIMAR. - LEIPSIC. 

mid lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther 
was hidden (1521-22), and many relics of his sojourn 
are shown. 4 hrs. S., beyond the Ducal capital of 
Jleiningen, is Coburg (Victoria), a handsome 
Franconian city, with a remarkable castle. 

On the Berlin route is Gotha {Deutscher Hof), a 
pleasant ducal city, with 26,000 inhab. In and near 
the great Friedenstein Palace are remarkable collec- 
tions of antiquities, coins, objects of art, sculptures, 
engravings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous 
picture-gallery. The Tliuringian Forest lies around 
the Eisenach- Gotha liy. Erfurt {Romischer Kaiser) 
is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 53,000 inhab., a 
high-placed Grothic Cathedral, and the Augustinian 
Monastery in which Luther became a monk in 1505. 
.Farther on toward Berlin is 

Weimar {Frbprinz ; Russisclier Hof), capital of 
the grand-duchy of Saxe-Weimar, an ancient town of 
20,000 inhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his 
death iw 1832; and his collections are shown. Schil- 
ler's house is open daily. Herder and Wieland also 
lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the 
town; and frescos from their works adorn the hand- 
some Grand-Ducal Palace. Their busts and many 
.curiosities are in the Grand-Ducal Library (170,000 
vols. ; open daily). The Museum (open April-Sept., 
10-4) has many curios and paintings. The Siadt- 
kirche (1400) has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the 
tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried 
m the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards 
Berlin is . ^ , 7 

Leipsic {Hotel Eaufs ; de Russie ; Sedan; de 
Pnisse), a city of 400,000 inhab., the centre of the 
German' book -trade, the seat of high imperial 
tribunals, and the place where 3 great fairs are held 
yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and 



LEIPSIC. — BERLIN. 241 

the Levant. 30,000 strangers come to these fairs; and 
the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and cloths) ex- 
ceed 150,000,000. These picturesque exchanges liave 
been carried on for over 700 years. There "are 300 
booksellers and 80 printing-ofiiGcs here. The Museum 
lias Thorvvaldsen's Ganymede, and an immense collec- 
tion of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open 
Sun., Wed. ,Fri., free; Men. 1 mk.; Tues.,Thurs..Sat., 
|mk.). The Augusteuni is the seat of the Universit}^ 
which was founded in 1402, and has 3,200 students and 
a library of 350,000 vols, and 4,000 MSS. See tlie New 
. Theatre, with beautiful Corinthian fagade ; the Fleis- 
senburg citadel; the old houses in the Grimma'sche 
Strasse ; AuerbacJis Keller, where part of the scene of 
Goethe's Faust is laid ; the house in the Bruhl where 
Eichard Wagner was born ; tlie Ethnographical Museum, 
etc. In 4 Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Aus- 
trians, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, de- 
feated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, and 
drove them out of Leipsic. In the Market Place is 
the War Moimment by Siemering. 

On the Leipsic-Magdsburg-Hamburg rly. is Halle 
{Bode; Hamburg; Kronprmz), with 91,000 inhab., and 
a tamous university (1,000 students). In the market- 
place is the ancient Ilathhaus, the many4owered Ch. of 
Our Lady (1530). a clock -tower 276 ft. high, and a 
statue of Handel (born at Halle, 1685). 

Berlin 

{Alexandra, Carlton, KaiserJiof, Bristol, Royal, 
.Savoy, Palast, Central, Continental, Rome, Mono- 
pol, Westminster), the capital of Prussia and of Ger- 
many (1.600,000 inhabitants), is 3 to 4 hours from 
Leipsic, on a sandy plain, by the river Spree. Origi- 



243 BERLIN. 

nally a Wendish fishing-village, and afterwards a Han- 
seatic town, it was notably improved by the Great Elector 
(1640-88), and by Frederick tlie Great and his predecessor 
(1713 86). Since the accession of William I. in 1861 the 
population has increased fourfold, and the arts and trades 
have flourished remarkably. 

The best part of the city may be seen by walking down 
the Untertleii Ijinden, a broad avenue, 1 M. long, with 
double rows of lime-trees, from the Brandenburg Gate 
to the Royal Palace. The Gate is an imitation of the 
Propylaea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victoi-y 
with horses. This was taken to Paris in 1807 as a trophy. 
Outside is the TMergarten; inside, the Pariser-Platz^ 
with the Blucher Palace and Ofacers' Club on the S., and 
the French Embassy on the N. There are several other 
embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various govern- 
ment buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern. 
is the first building on the S., and beyond are the resi- 
dences of the Minister of Religion and Education and of 
the Russian Ambassador, Opposite is the Ministry of the 
Interior. See the Aquarium and the arcade, Kaiser-Gal- 
lerie. At the E. end is the bronze statue of Frederick the 
Great, by Ranch, called the finest of its kind in Europe. 
The king is on horseback, in his coronation-robes; and 
the lofty pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of 
his generals, princes, etc. To the S. is tlie Palace of Wil- 
liam J., behind which is the Royal Library (open 1-2), with 
1,000,000 volumes and 30,000 MSS. N. is the Academy 
Building containing the Academies of Art and of Science? 
also the University (7,000 students), once Prince Henry's 
palace, and partly enclosing gardens in which are statues 
of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoologi- 
cal collections here ; and a library of 100,000 vols. The 
Opcrn Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Ranch, and 
is bounded, by the Palace, University, Opera House, and fj 



BERLIN. 'i^B 

St. Hedwig''s CJh, an imitation of the Roman Pantheon* 
Farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is the Empress Fred" 
erick Palace; and at the L is the Royal Guard-House 
(military music in summer, 11-13), a copy o£ a Roman 
fortified gate. Back of this is the Singiny-Academu ; and 
on one side is the handsome Arsenal, with many rare 
trophies of war. Close by is the Schloss Bridge, adorned 
with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to the Lustgarten^ 
a park in which stands an equestrian statue of Frederick 
William IIL On one side is the Royal Palace, a vast 
Jotible quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 60O 
rooms (open daily, 10-1). See Swiss Hall, King's Hall, 
Red-Eagle Hall, Throne Room, now Ritter Saal, Velvet 
Room, Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern, 
battle-paintings). White Saloon (statues of the 13 Elec- 
tors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and 
splendidly frescoed. Magnificent new Cathedral must 
not be missed. Opposite the palace is the Old Museum, 
the finest building in the city, with a grand Ionic portico, 
adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly frescoed 
halls (open daily, 10-3). See the collections of antiquities; 
the sculptures ; the Hall of the Heroes, and the Picture 
Oallery, unexcelled in its facilities for the study of art 
history. The New Museum contains Kaulbach's famous 
mural paintings, the Egyptian museum, an immense 
collection of casts, 13 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 
rooms of objects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a 
Renaissance fagade to the E. ; and opposite is the new 
Corinthian temple of the National Gallery (open daily, 
11-3), which contains a magnificent and world-renowned 
I collection of modern paintings. 

The Friedrichs-Stadt is the business centre of Berlin, 
and the streets in this section are interesting. The 



244 BERLIN. 

Theatre is a classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, with 
several line bronze groups; in front, a noble statue of 
Schiller. tThe Wtlhelmstrasse contains notable palaces; 
and in the Wilhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick 
the Great's generals. At the west end of the busy Leip- 
ziger-Strasse are tlie halls of the Prussian Diet, the offices 
of the ministers of War and Navy, and of the Postmaster- 
General; adjoining latter is the interesting Post -Office 
Museum. Just beyond Leipziger-Platz is the Potsdamer- 
Platz, and near this on Koniggratzer-Strasse corner 
Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse is EthnograiJhical Museum (10-3), 
next to which is the Art Industrial Museum (10-3). Belle 
Alliance Platz contains lofty granite column of Peace 
(1840), surrounded by splendid marble groups. 

At the E. end of Leipziger-Strasse is the Spittel-Markt. 
Near this (5 Wall-Strasse) is Ravene's Gallery of modern 
French and German pictures (Tues. & Fri., 10-3). S. of 
the Schloss-Brticke is the Academy of Architecture. The 
Schinkel-Platzla.SiS statues of Schinkel, Beuth, and Thaer. 
The Kurfursten Bridge leads from the square S. of the 
Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are the Imperial 
Post-Office and the Mth-century Ch. of St. Mary. The 
Rathhaus (open 10-3) is an immense Romanesque building 
of brick (1860-70), with a tower 286 ft. high, and several 
handsome halls. Underneath is the Rathskeller, a great 
refreshment - room. Opposite the Museum is the Stock 
Exchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the 
greatest hall in Berlin, richly frescoed. Beyond the 
Hercules Bridge (on which are statues by Schadow) is 
Moiibijou, a beautiful royal palace, in which is the Hohen- 
zollcrn Museum (daily, 10-3). Near by is the great Syna- 
gogue, Moorish in style. 

The splendid KOnigs-Platz adjoins the Thiergarten, 
and contains the Monument of Victory, 190 ft. high, com- 



POTSDAM. 245 

memorating the battles of 1870-71. Here is the Italian 
Renaissance Hall of the Imperial Diet, which cost 23,000,- 
OCO mks. Avenue of Victory, Berlin's favorite promenade, 
leads through the Thiergarten, a park 3 M. long and | M. 
wide, with many ponds and groves of large trees. At the 
end is a large Zoological Garden. S. of this is the Emperor 
William Memorial Church, erected in 1895. To S.E. is the 
Botanical Garden with plants of 30,000 species. Horse-cars 
run through the Thiergarten to Charlottenburg, a large 
town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome garden, and a 
Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious masters. In 
Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Mendelssohn is buried ; and 
in Trinity Cemetery, Schleiermacher and Neander. Cor- 
nelius rests in Hedwig's Cemetery; Ranch, Schadow, 
Schinkel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheenstadt 
Cemcterij; and the Humboldts, at Tegel. 

Potsdam {Einsiedler, Eisenbahn, with good restaurant) 
is 16 M. from Berlin (K hr.; 75 pf.), among wooded hills 
and the lakelike expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sans- 
souci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and full of 
reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture-Gallery, 
the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the 
Sicilian Garden. The New Palace (1769) has 300 richly 
adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy 
Marble Saloon. The Marhle Palace is N. of Potsdam, and 
has many paintings. Bahelsberg is a new Gothic palace, 
with rich art-treasures. The Town Palace (1660) is full of 
relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church con- 
tains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of 
Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, with masterpieces of 
sculpture. The famous Sanssouci fountains play on 
summer Sunday afternoons. There are several chateaux 
of princes near Potsdam (60,000 inhab.). 



246 DRESDEN. 



Dresden and Prague. 

Express- trains, Berlin to Dresden, 3 hrs. (108 M.; 16 
mks. 30 pf., 13 mks. 30 pf., 8 mks. 50 pf.). 

Dresden- (Savoy ,' Europdischer Hof; Continental; Belle- 
V116 ; Berlin ; Rom ; Kronprinz ; Vier JaUreszeiten ; Stadt 
Prag), "the German Florence," has 400,000 inhab., and 
has been the capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British 
and American families dwell here, induced by the 
abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also 
by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by 3 stone 
bridges, and bordered by the popular promenade, the 
Brtihl Terrace, adorned with statuary and trees. Here 
front the Synagogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition 
Buildings, and the Court Ch. (famous music. Sun, and 
festivals, 11) Statues of Richter and Semper and the 
Maurice monument here. Opposite Court Church is the 
Hof-Theater, and near it Gua/rd House. In square is 
equestrian statue of King John. The Boyal Palace (1534) 
is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. 
high, and a richlv frescoed Throne Room. The Green- 
Vault (9-3 daily ; catalogue, 1 mk.) contains the largest 
existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carv- 
ings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent 
plate; also the regalia of Poland and Saxony, superb 
state swords, and precious stones of enormous value ; and 
works of Durer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum (part 
of the Zwinger) is a Renaissance building decorated with 
statues and sculptures, and containing the finest picture- 
gallery N. of Italy (open daily; Sun., Tues., Thurs., 
Fri. free). Here are 2,400 paintings, including 
the Sistine Madonna, Correggio's La Notte, and 
Titian's Tribute Money; and choice works of 



SAXON SWITZERLAND. 247 

Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, Veronese, etc. ; also, 350,000 
engravings, a great museum of casts, collections in 
natural history and mineralogy, and the most interest- 
ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient weapons, 
armor, furniture, and trophies of war). See the Eng- 
lish ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady; the Cross 
Ch., with tower 346 ft. high, and fountains and statues 
in the streets. Monument to the War of 1870-71, in 
the Old Market. 

The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, contains 
the Royal Library, with 400,000 vols., 6,000 MSS., 
and many rare old books and maps (open to visitors 
12-1 summer, 1-3 winter, | mk.) ; the Collection of 
Porcelahi (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and Ori- 
ental wares ; open daily) ; and collections of coins and 
antiquities. In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden, 
]i8ar wliich Korner was born and Schiller dwelt. The 
Grosse Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein 
the French and Prussians fought in 1813. Here are 
Zoological and Botanical Gardens; also a Museum of 
Antiquities, and Rietscliel Museum of sculptures (both 
open daily). Schlegel and Weber are buried in the 
Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. 
Moreau was mortally wounded is 1^ M. S. ; and the 
Moritzburg, a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. N. Pillnitz 
(7 M.) is a handsome royal chateau. Many charming 
suburban excursions. 

The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful mt. region, 
4-500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sand- 
stone peaks and gorges, and traversed by the Elbe. 
A 2-clays' tour leads from Dresden to Potzscha (f hr. 
by rly.) ; thence (1^ hr.) to the Bastei, a hotel-crowned 
peak, overlooking the whole region and the Elbe valley\, 
thence (5 hrs.) to Schandau,di. swmmQV resort (hotels) 
j in the heart of the mts. ' and thence (1 day) by the 



548 PRAGUE. 

LicMenhain Fall and the KuhMall and PrebiscfdJior 
peaks, to Konigstein, a lofty and imposing Saxon for- 
tress. It is 5-7 hrs. (fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 14 mks. 10 pf., 
9 mks. 40 pf.) np tlie Elbe valley and tlirough the 
Saxon Switzerland, by Firna and Kmigstem, with their 
fortresses, and Bodenbach (2| hrs. from the ScJmeeberff,, 
and opposite the handsome castle of Teschen), from. 
Presden to 

Prague {Enrjlucher Hof; Grand; Schwartzes JRoss;^ 
Blauer Stern; Victoria; Goldener Engel), tlie capi- 
tal of Bohemia (250,000 inhab.), situated on hills 
near the Moldau River, f of the people are Bohemians, 
and the Germans are very nnpop'jlar. The city was 
founded by the Duchess Libnssa. Here Huss and 
Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm 
root in Bohemia until the Protestant army was crushed, 
just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces 
of the R.oman-Catholic League. The palace of the 
Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack ; and the 
old Hussite ch., the Teynkirche, containing Tycho 
Brahe's tomb, is now Roman. In front of the Rath- 
haus 27 Protestant Bohemian nobles were executed, in 
1620 ; and 11 of Wallenstein's officers, in 1633. See 
the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic Pulver- 
tJmrm tower ; the great Jesuit College ; the ancient 
Viiiversity, founded in 1348 ; the Bohemian National 
Museum; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned with 
statues ; the Neustadt Rathhaus, where the Hussite 
wars began ; the Jews^ Quarter, with 9 synagogues and 
a verv ancient cemetery; and the Wysschrad citadel. 
The Charles Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches, 
towers of defence (on one of which the heads of Ihe 
Protestanf nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30 
p'atues of saints, crosses the Moldr,Ti to the sjiimdid 
jRadeizlcu Momm-ent (made from Italian caiinop.) and 



CARLSBAD. — TEPLITZ. 24^ 

the Jesuit Ch. On the rocky heights above is tlie mar* 
vellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1844- 
-85), containing the marble and alabaster mausoleum 
(1589) of the Bohemian kings; the tombs of. St. Adal- 
bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzel, and several Sclavonic- 
kings, and many rare mosaics and paintings. The- 
great Imperial Palace (open daily, 11-1, 1 fi.) con- 
tains portraits, ancient halls, and the Council Chamber 
from which the imperial councillors were thrown^ 
causing the Thirty Years' War. In the Sternberg 
Palace is a collection of 350-400 paintings (open, 
daily). The vast Czernin Palace is now a barracks 
Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied 
after the Casa Santa at Loretto. Higher up is th^ 
wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahow, with the- 
tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappenheim, a painting: 
by Diirer, a fine library, and splendid views over 
Prague, tlie Moldau plain, and the Giant Mts. Below 
the BeloederCy an imperial villa (1536) with Bohemian, 
historical frescos, are Walieiistein's Palace (1636)^ 
and the Nosfifz Palace, containing 400 paintings. 

Carlsbad {Anger's Hotel; De Russie ; Stadt Han-- 
nover ', Paradies), 6~7 hrs. rly. ride W. of Prague, is 
visited by over 20,000 people yearly, who find the sul- 
phur and saline waters beneficial, and the pretty scen- 
ery of the TepI glens and pine woods very charming. 

Teplitz {Stadt London ; Pos(), 3-4 hrs. from Dres- 
den, and 4-5 hrs. from Prague, is another famous^ 
watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used for^ 
bathing. The scenery is mouiitainous and picturesque 5. 
and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys- 
abound. Prom Prague to Munich is a ride of 11-19" 
hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf., 30 mks. 60 pf., 21i mks.). Prorm- 
Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M. |.- 
8-10 hrs. J fares, 18 mks. 70 pf., 13 mks. 70 pf.), vim 



,250 VIENNA. 

Tabor and Gmimcl. Beiiiii to Breslau and Vienna, 
18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaim and Vienna, 14 hrs. 

Vienna. 

Yiot^X^.— Imperial ; Arclidibke Charles; Bristol; 
MetropoU; De Frayice; Franhfurt; Meissl; Krantz; 
London; Klomser ; (in the suburbs), Continental; 
Victoria; Englisclier Hof; Bristol. 

Restaurants, — Vienna is an expensive town, and a 
few hints may be useful. There is no obligation to take 
more than the first breakfast in hotels where you lodge. 
Sacher's, near the Opera, is capital restaurant ; Brey- 
ing's, in Graben; Dreher's, close to Opera; and some 
of the cafe-restaurants on the Ring, are good. The 
Viennese sup from 9 to 11 ; and the traveller should 
not fail to take supper in one of the concert-halls, fre- 
quented by good society. Table-d'hote is not general. 
'<TOod dinners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed 
prices. Austrian wines most in use are Voslauer (red) 
imd Guopoldskirchener (white). The Hungarian 
Avines are Erlauer, (■ariowitzer, and Ofener (red) ; and 
Tokayer a, id Ruster (white). 

Carriages (2-horse), 1 fl. for drive within the city 
limits; l^fl. an hr. ; 1-horse, Ifl. 20kr. an hr. Drivers 
-expect liberal gratuity. Horse-cars, with smoking- 
compartments, run around the Ring, the Franz- 
Joseph-Qiiai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the 
Prater (fare, 12kr.). The railway termini are all 
joined by a circular connecting line. 

The capital of Austria and Hungary, with upwards 
of 1,400,000 inh., stands on a mountain-walled plain 
near the Danube River, and is one of the handsomest, 
most enterprising, and most interesting of European 
cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village; then a Roman 
fort, where Maj-cus Aurelius died (180); left a deso- 
lation by the Hiins; made a fief of the empire by 
Oharlemagne ; occupied by the Duke of Austria in 



VIENNA. 251 

1156 ; enrichetl by the Crusades; fortified in 1251; oo 
cupied by the Hapsburgs in 1276 ; besieged by the 
Turks in 1529 and 1683 ; occupied by the French in 
1805 and 1809 ; and in the power of Prussia in 1866. 

The Church of St. Stephen, at the centre of 
Vienna, built of limestone, 1300-1510, and restored 
in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 feet high -^ 
and its rich groined roof rests on huge pillars^, 
adorned with 100 statuettes. See the old imperial 
burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eiigene of Savoy, the 
stone pulpit (1512), the sarcophagus in the Thekla 
Choir, the carved choir-stalls, aud the stained windows. 
Great catacombs beneatli. On the outside, see Giant's,. 
Eagle's, and Bishop's Doors, tomb of the Meistersanger, 
pulpit of Capistrahus, and Heathen towers. The 
tower is 453 ft. high (20 kr.), and the guides point out 
thence the battle-fields of Wagram and Essling. At 
the corner of the Graben, the chief business and shop- 
ping street, is the Stoc& am Eisen, a pine-tree stump- 
full of nails, driven on account of an ancient custom. 
In the Graben is the grotesque Trinity Column (1693)^ 
The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Im- 
perial Palace. The Ring is the magnificent boule- 
vard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which (with the^ 
Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town, 
and occupies the place of the old ramparts and glacis. 
Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, it passes between the^ 
great barracks and the Custom House. The next 
section, the Stuhen-Ring, passes the handsome new 
Austrian Museum (open daily), with 9 rooms, 
crowded with choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory„ 
bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paintings and stal. 
nary. This German S' Kensington is joined by m 
corridor to the Technical 6'chool, near which is a statue- 
of Pallas Athene. The Park-Ring runs between the- 



252 VIENNA. 

pretty Stadt Park, where tlie Strausses may often be 
lieard, and the Horticultural Palace, behind which are 
the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Coburg 
and the Archduke William. Th.'3 Kolowrai-Ri}}g passes 
ithe Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic 
.Academie Gymnasium. From the Schwartzetiberg-Platz^ 
with its monument and ducal palaces, the Kdrnthner- 
:Bing passes the Imperial and Grand Hotels, the beauti- 
ful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance' 
.Artists' House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy 
Opern-Ring leads by the magnificent Opera House, 
the best in Germany, with sumptuous frescos and 
idecorations ; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in 
which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9-2), 
.-a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and 
iliundreds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Diirer, etc. 
The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of 
the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The 
Franzens-Ring passes the Volksgarten, a popular park, 
with a temple containing Canova's Theseus. Near it 
is the superb Votive Ch., commemorating the Em- 
peror's escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned 
^th twin spires, abounding in statues, and 345 ft, 
liigh, and wonderful stained windows. Near by are 
vast hospitals, unrivalled in Europe; and the great 
mew buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus, 
the Courts of Justice, the Hofburg Theatre, the Mili- 
tary Offices, and the classic Parliament House, The 
8chotten-Ring contains the Zischange, a new Renais- 
sance structure (cost $2,500,000), the vast PoKce 
Office, and the Stiftungshaus erected on the site of 
the Ring Theatre which was burned with great loss of 
life in 1881, and leads to the Danube Canal. 

The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of 
Austria's sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irreg- 



VIENNA. 25$ 

lalar group of buildings, -with a labyrinth of courts, 
gates, und corridors. See tlie maguilicent Knights* 
Mall, in the Residenz; the apartments of Maria Theresa; 
the Uidmg 'School ; the Guard-House (military musio 
daily, at 1); the 'Augustiniaii Ch., with its monuments; 
the Hofgarten; and the statues of Francis I., Joseph 
II., the Aichduke Charles, Prince Eugene, etc. The 
Imperial Library (open daily, 9-4) contains 600,000 
vols., 20,000 MSS., and 300,000 engravings. _ The 
Natural-Ristorg and Mineral GahineU are very inter- 
esting. The Treasury (open almost every day) is 
the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entira 
jfegalia of Austria, coronation -robes, jewel-studded dec- 
orations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal, 
Kapoleon I.'s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of 
Haroun-al-Raschid, the crown and sword of Charle- 
magne, the lance which pierced the Saviour's side, etc. 
Among the jewels is the Elorentine diamond, valued at 
$300,000. 

The homely Capuchin Gh. contains the Imperiai 
Vault (open daily ; gratuity for the poor), where you 
may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie 
Louise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns. 
Near by is the Imperial Printing -Office (open Tues. 
and Eri., 9-12). The University/ (4,000 students) 
is in the Franzens-Ring. ■ 

The suburban Liechtenstein Palace (open daily, 
■9-6) has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many 
remarkable works of Rubens and Van Dyck. The 
^Schonborn Palace (Mon., Wed., and Eri'., 9-3) has 
a famous collection of pictures ; and the Harrach Fal" 
Mce (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) contains 400 interesting 
paintings. There are many very interesting ancient 
and modern clis. in Vienna, many palaces, and civic 
and national institutions, monujy^ents, squares, and 
bridges, which should be seen.- -^' > 



254 VIENNA. 

The Belvedere, an Imperial residence,built in 1693- 
1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy» 
has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery formerly 
contained about 1,500 paintings, including a remark- 
able collection of early Italian and Venetian works, 
iiud Diirer's world-renowned *' Trinity," all of which 
were removed to the Imperial Art Museum in 1891. 
The other of the two buildings forming the Belve- 
dere, known as the Lower Belvedere, contained th« 
famous Ambras collection, removed in 1889 to the 
Art-History Museum. Near by is the vast Arsenal, 
with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands 
of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French, 
Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great bar- 
racks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry. 

The Prater is an immense forest-park on the E 
(laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, theatre?, 
and avenues. On May and June afternoons the fashion- 
able world of Austria may be seen driving in the HaupU 
Allee. W'lirstel Prater is the part frequented by the 
liumbler classes. In the cemetery of Wahring, 1^ M. 
'E. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grillpar- 
zer are buried; Mozart lies at 8i. Marx, and Gluck at 
Matzleinsdorf, 

Schonbrunn (horse-cars or omnibus) is a splendid 
suburban imperial residence, where Napoleon I. had 
his headquarters, and where his son died (1832). 
Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, and flowers. 
On the W. are the villas of Hietzing. Laxenburg 
(f hr, by rly.) is another imperial chateau (built in 
1377), with many interesting halls and monuments. 
The Kahlenberg, N. of Yienna, overlooks the Danube 
plain, the Carpathians, and the Styrian Alps. There 
are many other lovely excursions in the environs. 



PESTH. 255 



SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE. 

THIS interesting region is easily readied from Vi- 
enna, whence steamers descend the Danube to 
Pesth in 12-13 hrs. (starting at 6.30 a. m.; fares, 7 fl., 
4f fi.). Pesth to Vienna, by rly., 7-8 hrs. (fares 9 fl. 
60 kr., 7 ti. 80 kr. by express). The steamer passes 
Lohait island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers,. 
with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809; and the cas- 
tles of Deutsc]i-Altenburg,Haiiiburg, and Thebenj- and 
in 2^ hrs. reaches Presbnrg {Griiner Baum; Konig 
mn Ungarn), tlie former capital (48,000 inh.), on the 
foot-hills of the little Carpathians. In the Cathedral 
(1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it 
is a statue of St. Martin. See the Rathliaus (1288); 
Ihe beautiful Fmnciscan Gh. (1293); SindtlxQ Museums. 
From the ruins of the imperial palace, on the ScJdoss- 
berg, there is a lovely view over the villages and vine- 
yards. Beautiful excursions in the vicinity. 

Below Presburg the shores are fiat. Komorn is 2t 
powerful fortress (14,000 inhab.); Gran (10,000 in- 
Iiab.) " as a loftj^-domed cathedral; Wissegrad, a ven- 
erable fortress, /uincd by the Turks; and Waitzen^ 
a vast modern cathedral. 

Pesth {Grand Hotel Hungaria; Queen of England^ 
Metropole; Erzlierzog ^tephan; Europa), called also 
Buda-Pest, has, with Ofen (or Buda), its trans- 
Danubian suburb, 500,000 inhab. It is the capital 
of Hungary, and the seat of the Imperial Diet and 
the. Courts. In commerce it is very enterprising, 
.and has a vast trade in grain. The beautiful modern 
Ilenaissance Academy (open, free. Sun., AVed. , Fri.) 
contains the great 'National Gallery (EsterhazyV 



2m BELGRADE.-BAZIASCH. 

with 800 paintings, 50,000 engravings, and 2S,000 
drawings. The National Museum (9-1) is rich in 
Roman, Transylvanian, and Hungarian antiquities, 
and has 200 Italian and Dutch paintings. The mag- 
nificent Bedoute Buildifigs are in Saracenic architec- 
ture. See the new palace of the Diet (Landhaus); 
the promenades along the Danube; the Exchange; 
the colossal sculptured Bulls in front of the market ; 
the new Custom House ; the llargarethen-Jnsel, 
a pretty island-park (cafes and military music); 
and various new national buildings. A splendid 
suspension-bridge runs to Ofen, once a Roman 
colony, and for 150 years a Turkish town. Cars 
ascend an inclined plane to the new and costly Royal 
Pcdace and the great modern fortress. There are 
famous baths in Ofen, founded by the Turks, near 
one of which is a mosque. 

ReturEi to Vienna by rly. ; or descend the Danube 
ior Belgrade, Bucharest, and Constantinople. 
Steamers from Pesth to Orsova in 50 hrs. (fares, 24fl. 
10 kr., 16 fi. 10 kr.), — a superb trip, passing llohdcs 
(12,000 inhab.), where the Turks conquered Hungary 
(1526) ; Neusatz, a fortified modern town, with 
19,000 inhab. ; Peterivardein, where Peter the Hermit 
]3reached the First Crusade ; Carlowitz, with a Greek 
Cathedral ; and Semlin, where is Hunyadi's castle. 

Belgrade {Hotel de Paris) , the capital of Servia, 
has 40,000 inhab., a quaint Oriental town, with nar- 
row streets curving under a fortress-crowned rock. 
See the Konak of the Prince; the busy street 
Jlilan; the Mosques. The Turks evacuated Bel- 
grade in 1867. 

4-5 hrs. below is Baziasch, the end of the rlv. from 
Pesth (fares, 36 fl. 41 kr., 27 fl. 29 kr., 18 fl. l6 kr.). 
Travelers often come down this way, and take steamer 
at Baziasch, where the Danube enters the magnificent 
scenery of the Carpathians. On the r., in this tre- 



ORSOVA. — BUCHAREST. 25 f 

mendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Goluhacz, auA 
ancient Roman forts. At Drenaooa the ra])ids are 
entered. Servia is on tlie r., Hungary on the 1. 
Through the Defile of Kasan the river is 500-600 ft. 
wide, between immense rocky cliffs. Trajan's Roman 
road is on the r. bank ; and iiis inscription, commemo- 
rating the Dacian campaign, is near the end, 

Orsova {Konig von Ungarn) is a pretty Vv'allachiaa 
village, just above the famous Iron Gates, where tlie 
Danube plunges through a rocky canon 1^ M. long, 
A rly. runs from Pesth to Orsova (305 M. ; fares, 
25fl. 65kr., 19fl. 23kr., 13fl. 80kr.), by Temesviir 
(33,000 inhab.). From Vienna to Bucharest bv this 
favorite route, 39-30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c, ISl'i fr. ; 
the Roumanian currency is like that of France). 

The through journey from Pesth to Constantinople 
(3 days; fares, food 'included, 108^ fi., m±) is by 
rly, to Bayisch, thence by express-steamer to Rustchuk,. 
rly, to Varna, and steamer down the Black Sea. From 
Giurgevo, opposite Rustchuk, rly. to Bucharest. 

Vienna to Bucharest. — Fares 16 fl. 63 kr.. 12 fl. 

•70 kr., 9 fl. 79 kr,, to Cracow {Grand ; Saxe), ouce 

the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1816. 

Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish 

I kings ; and a huge mound made of earth, erected by 

I the people in honor of Kosciuszko. Fares, 16J fl., 

'13 fl. 18 kr., 61 fl,, to Lemberg {Hotel de France; 

D'Angleterre), the capital of Galicia, with 127,000 

i inhab. and a large university. Lemberg to Czernowit.^, 

12 fl. 64 kr., 9 fl. 47 kr., 4 fl. 92 kr.; Czernowltz to 

^oman, fares proportional ; Roman to Buchare."* 56 fl. 

30kr., 42Jfl., 28 fl. 10 kr. 

I Bucharest {Hotel Frascati), the capital of the 
jidngdom of Roumania, " the Paris of the East," has 
[115,000 inhab,, and is a semi-Oriental town, divided 

l! 



258 GRATZ. — TFJESTE. 

into the Yello"vr, Red, Green, Elack, and Blue districts, 
fOr wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Uni- 
versitj, the Ch. and Monastery of Radu Vod (1572), 
the parks, the equestrian statue of Micliael 111.^ and 
3ome of the chs. 

Vienna to Gratz and Trieste. 

Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste in 14|- 
hrs. (fares, 33 fl. 83 kr., 24 fl. 52 kr.), crossing the 
Semmering Pass by a wonderfull^y picturesque rly., 
■with 30 tunnels and viaducts; 25 M. of this line cost 
nearly $8,000,000. Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above 
the sea ; and here the rly. passes through the crowning 
ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the 
narrow Styrian valleys by Eruck, where the rly. to 
Yenice diverges, and by a score of castles, to 

Gratzs {Mephant ; Golden Lion), the capital of 
Styria (100,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and 
growing town, where many retired Austrian officers, 
live. Tlie Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands 
a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the 
Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the 
Johanneum Palace, with its library and picture-gallery. 

Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt. i 
region, full of historical interest. At Steinhriick a 
branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia., i 
Tarther on is Laibach, the capital of Carniola, with a ; 
fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg {Grand 
Hotel Adelsberg ; Krone), whence the famous Stalactite ,| 
Caverns (f M. W.) may be visited. The long zigzag \< 
descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views. \ 

Trieste (Hotel de la Ville ; Belorme ; Enropw; 
Vienna), the chief Austrian port (150,000 inhab), ia 
an Itaiian city in sentiment and appearance,beautif ally 



LINZ. — SALZBURG. 253* 

situated on a fortified, liarbor, and visited by 14,00(1 
vessels yearly. It has a venerable cathedral, a sump- 
tuous Greek cli., a tall Armeniau ch., a far- vie wing' 
Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto 
{Jews' quarter), many palaces, and several statues. 
The Tergestewm is a vast commercial building, head- 
quarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Piazzetta di 
Ricardo commemorates the imprisonment of Richard 
Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. An- 
drea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of 
Mexico; and to Prosecco, of whose wine Virgil spoke. 

Steamers run from Trieste down the Istrian and 
Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, Cattarc^ 
Pola, and Fiume ; and to the Ionian and Greek ports, 
and Constantinople ; also to Venice. Rly. to Venice. 

The Upper Danube, Salzburg, etc. 

This region is full of beauty and picturesqueness. 
The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires 
8-9 hrs. (7 fl., 4 fl. 30_kr.) ; ascent, 18-20 hrs. The 
route to N. Germany is by rly. to Linz and Munich, 
Rly. from Vienna in 117 M. (4|-6hrs. ; 10 il. 80 kr., 
8fl. lOkr.), by Molk, with its ancient monastery; and 
Enns, strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England 
for Richard Coeur de Lion, and 3 M. from the great; 
Augustinian Abbey of St. Florian ; to 

Linz {Brzherzog Carl ; Goldner Adler), the capital 
of Upper Austria (50,000 inhab.), a pretty town, with 
a museum, castle, and Capuchin ch. 78| M. S. W. 
(fares, 7 fl. 13 kr., 5 fl. 35 kr.*, express in 3 hrs.) is 

Sdl'zlowc^^Iof el de r Europe ; D'Atdriche; Nelhdck\ 
one of the most beautiful towns in Germany, with aa 
Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, fountains, and 
snarble fagades, and environs of far-famed picturesque- 



340 ROME. 

Rome. 

Hotels.— Quirinojl; Grand; Royal; Bristol; de Bussie; 
Savoy; Beau-Site; Eden; Palace; BertoliuVs Splendid; 
Primavera; Victoria; Anglcterre: Hassler (German); 
Annlo-Americaine ; Marini ; Michel; Campidoglio. 
There are also many pensions suitable for a long 
stay. 

Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces 
obtained from liotel-proprietor or guide,or from appointed 
officials. Get Baedeker's Central Italy, compact and 
practical ; Hare's Walks in Borne ; Murray's Rome is good 
reading, but bulky ; Hacbette's Borne et ses Environs i& 
good. Rly., Paris to Rome, 43 hrs. (fares, 312fr., 179fr.60c.) 

Old travelers advise tbat mornings at Rome be given to 
the chs. and palaces, and afternoons to the classic ruins 
and fragments of the Imperial city. 

A visit to Rome is the most interesting experience in 
the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the 
city can be gained in less than 10-13 days. If the traveller 
can give it but 7-8 days, he should devote the time equally 
between the classic remains and the great chs. and 
modern institutions. American Ch. of St. Paul, on Via 
Nazionale. 

Tradition ascribes the founding of Rome to Romulus 
and Remus, B.C. 753. It is probably much older. King 
Tarquin was expeEed, B.C. 509; the republic lasted 480 
years, conquering the Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, 
Lucanians, etc. B.C. 390 the Gauls took Rome. Then 
came wars with Carthage (B.C. 364-341, 319-303, and 149- 
146); conquest of Corsica (338), Sicily (341), Spain (B.C. 197- 
178), Greece (b.c. 314-205, 300-197, 173-168, and 146), Pergamus 
(139), Provence (118), and Gaul (58-50). B.C. 39, Augustus 
Caesar became emperor. 47 legions garrisoned the vast 
empire. Constantino (334-337 a.d.) made Christianity the 
State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to 
Constantinople. Rome was sacked by Alaric, 410, then by 



BOME. 341 

0enseric, and finally by Odoacer (476), who annihilated the 
Roman empire. In 546 and 549 the Goth Totila took the 
city. Leo the Great (440-461) and Gregory the Great (590- 
604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin 
(755) and Charlemagne (800). 

Rome, "the Eternal City," the capital of Italy 
(430,000 iiihab.), is on the river Tiber, 15| M. from 
its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desokto 
Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome, 
with the low Vatican and Janiculan Hills on the_r.,_and 
on the 1. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, 
Esquiline, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the 
Palatine and Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the 
famous "Seven Hills"). The space within the walls 
is about the same as in Aurelian's time, but f of it is 
in gardens and ruins. As in the Augustan age, it is 
divided' into 14 Rioni, or wards. The ecclesiastical 
population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow 
and unattractive ; but the Corso, Yia Babuino, Ripetta, 
and a few others are filled with splendid shops and 
animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber. 
The river often overflowed its banks and made lakes 
of the lower squares before embankments were built. 

The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and 
55 ft. high, and about 1600 years old, though restored 
by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now- 
open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo, 
built in 1561 by Yignola; next is Pinciana, closed in 
1808 ; then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where 
Alaric entered Rome ; Pia, built from Angelo's designs 
in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870; 
Nomentam, closed since 1564; Tiburtina, long ago 
sealed up; S. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over the 
Tivoli road ; the rly. gate ; Porta Maggiore, part of 
Claudian Aq[:ieduct Ca.d. 52), made a gate by Aurelian, 



342 AQUEDUCTS. — PIAZZA DEL POPOLO. 

and a fortress by the Colonnas, and commanding the 
Pales trina road; S. Giovanni, built in 1574, over Al- 
bano road ; Asinaria (now closed), where Belisarius 
marched into Rome ; Metronia, closed ; Latina (closed 
1808), over Via Latina, to Capua ; S. Sebastiano, with 
towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way ; ^S'. Paolo, at 
foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of 
Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river ; S. Pancrazio, on 
Janiculan Hill, stormed by Trench troops in 1849, and 
ruined by their artillery ; Cavalleggieri, close to St. 
Peter's, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon 
entered in 1527, and the Erench were repulsed in 1849 ; 
Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica, over route to Monte 
Mario ; and Castello (closed). 

The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Bora an archi- 
tecture and bold conception, with their vast arcades 
running for leagues over the Campagna. Tlie Aqua 
Marcia, built B.C. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the 
purest of water from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away. 
The Aqua Claudia (a.d. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 
58|^M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35 
M. The Aqua Virgo, built by Agrippa, for his baths, 
leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagna, and 
breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. TLe Aqua Felice 
(built by Sixtus V._, in 1585) leads from the Alban 
mts., 21 M. Rome is thus copiously supplied. 

The Piazza del Popolo, the f(Dcus at N. gate of 
Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and 
Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyptian obelisk 
(set up here in 1589), fountains, and statues. S. Maria 
del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero, 
has many prelates' tombs, rich paintings, and a beau- 
tiful chapel by Raphael. 2 other high-domed chs. 
front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the fa- 
vorite Roman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill 



EOME. 343 

={once Lucullus's gardens), with statues and basts, trees 
and fountains, and grand views. Tlie Villa Medici 
(1540) is now seat of French art-acaderay and collec- 
tions (open daily, except Sat.). The Villa Borghese, 
outside T'orta del Popolo, is in lovely and popular gar- 
dens (open Tues., Thurs., Sat., and Sun. afternoons), 
with oak-groves, lawns, statues, Raphael's villa, and a 
casino with 20 rooms devoted to sculptures (including 
Canova's Pauline Bonaparte) and paintings. The 
Villa Albani (open Tues,, 11 till dark) is outside 
Salarian Gate, with hundreds of ancient sculptures, and 
a few paintings, and queer Italian gardens, with ro- 
mantic distant views. 

The Piazza di Spagna is surrounded by the hotels 
and shops of the foreign quarter, and contains Bernini's 
Barcaccia fountain; Pius IX.'s Column of the Immacu- 
late Conception (with 5 statues) ; the Palace of Spain 
(Spanish embassy) ; and the College of Propaganda 
Fide (1662). The famous Spanish Staircase ascends 
hence to SS. Trinita de' Monti (1495), a stately ch. 
with many paintings and charming music (by nuns). 
Obelisk on square in front. Near by is Casa Bartholdy 
(1 1.), with room richly frescoed by Overbeck, Cornelius, 
and Veit (story of Joseph). In S. Andrea delta Valle, 
Zoega, Schadow, and Angelica Kauifman are buried. 
Beyond is ancient and very large Fountain of Trevi, 
with statues and great basin. 

The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via Fla- 
■Mtnia, from near Capitol to N. gate of Rome, and is 
the chief street, with many shops and cafes, and busy 
crowds. Leaving Piazza del Popolo, it passes Palazzo 
Rondanini, with unfinished Pieta by Michael Angelo ; 
Goethe's house (No. 20) ; great Hospital of Incura- 
i/^5 (founded 1338)- Palazzo Minuzzi ; S. Carlo, thQ 
Lombard national ch. ; Palazzo Etisjooli (1586) ; S, 



544 PALACES ON THE CORSO. 

Jjorenzo m lucina (in Piazza to r.), with tomb of !N>. 
Poussin; Palazzo Fiano ; Palazzo Teodoli ; S. Sih 
vestro in Capite (built 757-67), and English Ch, 
(1874) in side-street; old Palace of Knights ofMaUai 
Palazzo Torlonia; and Palazzo Ciiigi (1526), with vat 
liable art-collections and library. Here opens the 
handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Mar- 
cus Aurelius, 95 ft. high, adorned with spiral rehefs of 
Aurelius's wars on the Danube. On one side see 
palace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Veii| 
beyond which is Piazza di Monte Cittorio, with Italian 
Parliament House, in palace built by Bernini. In 
front, note obelisk, brought by Augustus from Egypt. 
Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by Pa- 
lazzi Piombino and Eerajuoli. Farther down Corso, 
on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra- 
Colouna, with a fine picture-gallery. Farther on, 
opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of S. Marcello 
(a.d. 499), with ancient paintings and Consalvi's 
tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo 
Doria (open Tues. and Eri. ; \ 1.), with large arcaded 
courtyard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in 
each room), including works of Raphael, Claude, 
Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati, 
back of which is Colonna Palace. Beyond the Palazzo 
Bonajoarte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.) 
is the Piazza di Venezia, at end of Corso, on which 
fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia 
(1455), which Pius lY. gave to Venice (now Austrian 
embassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous for 
its works of art ; 8. Marco (a.d. 325 ; rebuilt in 833), 
with mosaics and paintings ; and popular and gorgeous 
Jesuit Ch.of Gesu (1568-77), lined with costly marble, 
with columns of lapis lazuli and gilded bronze, many 
statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola. Adjacent 
is the former Jesuit monastery, xvith I^ioyola's cell, e^c 



ROME. 34^ 

The Tomh of Augustus (^ l.),wTiere Augustus, Mar- 
cellus (see Virgil) , and other emperors and princes^ 
were buried, afterwards became a fortress of the^ 
colonnas, and a ring for bull-fights, and is now but 
partly preserved,near the Ripetta,or harbor for barges 
and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a 
huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts. The 
picture-gallery has been removed to the Casino of the 
Villa Borghese, outside of the Porta del Popolo 
(daily 11-5, adm. Ifr.; Sun. 10-1, free). In this 
wonderful collection see especially Domenichino's 
Sibyl and Diana, Titian's Sacred and Profane Love» 
Raphael's Entombment, Madonna, and Csesar Borgia^ 
and Correggio's Danae. i 

. The Quirinal Palace (1574-1605), on high and" 
healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the i 
Popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has 
occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 180^ i 
by Napoleon ; and here he died in 1823. See frescos : 
in Sala Regia; Pauline Chapel, a f ac-simile (in form)^ ' 
of the Sistine ; Audience Hall ; frescos by Eaphael, 
Overbeck.etc. ; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperoir 
Francis I. , and King Francis II. of Naples. In front 
is Piazza di Monte Gavallo, with obelisk, great granite- 
fountain, and two famous colossal marble groups, 
the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine. 
Near Quirinal stands Consultd Palace, now Govern- 
ment offices; Palazzo Rospigliosi (1603), witk 
casino (Wed. and Sat.; 9-3), full of priceless pic- 
tures, including Guido's Aurora; S. JSilvestro ch.,. 
with Domenichino's frescos; mediaeval Milizie and 
Conti towers. 

Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults con- 
taining 4,000 desiccated bodies of Capuchin Monks^ 
many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations. li 



346 BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN. 

rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along citv-xvall, 
with Juno Ludovisi, Guercino's Aurora, etc., "in its 
-embowered casinos. Across Piazza Barberini (see 
Bernini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Pa- 
lazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, antique 
sculptures and Picture-Gallery (open daily, 12-5), 
containing Raphael's Fornarina, the so-called Gui- 
do's Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall, see 
Pietro da Cortona's fresco, " The Triumph of Glory." 
The library was added to the Vatican Library in 1903. 

On Piazza di SS. Apostoli, see ch. (555 ; restored 
1873) with monuments by Canova ; Valentino, Odes- 
«alchi, and RufFo Palaces; and Palazzo Colonna 
(1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques. 
Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old pictures 
(open daily, 11-3 ; names of pictures on frames). 

The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were 
once the largest in Rome, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000 
feathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Chris- 
tians. One of the great vaulted halls was made into 
■Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli, by Michael Angelo 
(1561). It is 350 ft. long and 96 ft. high, with 16 
columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite, Houdyn's 
statue of St. Bruno, Domenichino's wonderful frescos, 
and tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. Other 
halls of the Baths are now military storehouses, etc. ; 
as also is Carthusian Monastery, one of whose cloisters 
has 100 columns, and was designed by Angelo. A 
fragment of the Wall of Servius is in the rly.-stat. 

The Patriarchal Basilica of S. Maria Maggiore is 
<m the Esquiline, between 3 squares, adorned with an 
ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. high, with bronze 
statue of Madonna. First ch. here built by Pope 
Liberius (in 353), on ground indicated by miraculous 
fall of snow in August. j?resent nave (379 X 57 ft.) 



ROME. 34r 

built in 432-40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from 
Temple of Juno), and 5th-century mosaics on archi- 
trave, walls, and arch. Impressive fapade, with 5 por- 
tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interesting old 
mosaics. See high »ltar, a porphyry sarcophagus con- 
taining St. Matthew's remains, with canopy on 4r 
porphyry columns ; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis^ 
lazuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Luke y 
Chapel (with 10 porphyry columns) containing manger- 
cradle of Christ ; tombs of 6 popes ; sumptuous Six- 
tine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from 
America was given to the Pope by Perdinand and 
Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St. 
Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and 
mosaics, should be visited several times. 

Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where do- 
mestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan. j. 
Triumphal Arch of Qallienus (a.d. 362) ; S. EusebiOy 
frescoed by Raphael Mengs ; tower of Aqua Claudia; 
S. Prassede (882 ; restored in 1450 and 1869), with 
9th-century mosaics, column at which Christ was 
scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana, and 
Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold ; 
S. Pudenziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with 
4th-century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried bo- 
neath) ; S. Martino ai Monti (500), a basilica with 4^ 
antique columns, and frescos by Poussin; and S. 
Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia 
to receive St. Peter's chains, with 20 antique Doric 
colunins, fine bronze doors, and Michael Angelo's 
famous statue of Moses. 

The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old 
Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus's son-in- 
law, Agrippa, e.g. 27 i burnt under Titus and Trajan^ 
restored by Septimus Severus and Caracalla ; conse^ 



^48 THE PANTHEON. 

«rated by Boniface IV., in 609, as Ch. of S. Maria ad 
Marti/res; deformed by its 2 campaniles, by Bernini; 
stripped of its bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored 
by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress, 
revealing Roman works and buildings. The vast 
•round walls of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered 
with marble. The portico (now below, but once 
above, the square) lias 16 huge monolithic columns of 
Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals 
of famed beauty. Statues of Augustus and Agrippa 
once stood here. The circular interior is very impres- 
sive ; and is iiglited from a place 28 ft. across in the 
■centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled 
dome is 140 ft. higb and 140 ft. across. It was 
ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded bronze 
Toof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 655 ; and 
aU the other bronzes were used in making cannon for 
tbe Citadel and the canopy in St. Peter's. The 7 
niches in which statues of the gods stood are now 
occupied by altars. Raphael is buried here, near his 
betrothed, Cardinal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest 
Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and 
Ferino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King 
Victor Emmanuel of Italy. 

The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of Pan- 
iheon, was built in 1285 on site of Temple of Minerva, 
^nd contains tombs of Bembo, Fra Angelico, Urban 
VII., Paul ly., Leo X., and Clement VII ; Michael 
Augelo's Christ, and many choice works of art. Adja- 
<}ent Government building was headquarters of Do- 
minican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement 
about the earth's motion. Great Ubrary here, 120,000 
vols, and 4,500 MSS. ^ Close by, see S. Ignazio (1626), 
:and Gollegio Romano, in which is famous Kircheria.il 
Museum of archaeology (9-3 daily ; 1 1.). 



EOME. 349 

S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has tombs of Pius XL 
and III., and Domenichino's celebrated Evangelists. 
Near by, see Palazzo Vidoni, designed by Raphael; 
Palazzo Massimi alle Colonne (1536), with statue of 
Discus-thrower ; great Palazzo Braschi ; Pa.squino 
statue ; ruins of Pompei/s Theatre ; Chiesa Nuova 
(1605), with paintings by Ilub3ns, monastery, and great 
library ; Palazzo della Cancelleria, very elegant, de- 
signad by Bramante ; busy Piazza di Campo dei Fiori ; 
vast Palazzo Farnese (Fri., 10-2), built by SaugaHo 
and Michael Angelo in 1534^5, now belonging to the 
French Government, and splendidly frescoed by Anni- 
bale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Pa- 
lazzo Spada alia Regola (1540), with great collections of 
antique sculptures and paintings (Mon., Wed., Sat., 
9-3) ; and many other famous chs. and palaces. 

The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting foui^ 
tains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, Ornani, Braschi, 
and Pamfili Palaces ; S. Maria dell' Anima (1514), Gey- 
man national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian VI. ; antt 
the Spanish national ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace 
(1484), containing Raphael's Sibyls (1514). Fine 
cloister (1504) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483 ; re- 
stored in 1860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine's 
mother, and Raphael's famous Prophet Isaiah (1512). 
Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. Apollinare, 
see ch. (1552) with Perugino's Madonna, Seminario 
Romano school, and handsome Palazzo Altemps. S. 
iLuigi de' Pranceai (1589), on square with Patrizi, 
Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable 
paintings. Near by is University of the Sapienza, 
tounded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a library 
(Alessandrina) of 90,000 vols. S. of the Gesii, see many 
ipakces and chs. ; the Tortoise {Tartarughe) Fountain 
(1585) ; Palazzo Costaguti (1590). with Albano's and 



350 CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. 

Guercino's frescoes ; Palazzo Mattel (1616), with many 
statues in court ; Palazzo Cenci, where Beatrice Cenci 
lived ; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, once the 
quarter of the Jews ; Colonnade of Octaxia, built by 
Augustus in honor of his sister ; Theatre of Marcellus 
(b. c. 13), 12hugh arches only remaining ; and palaces 
of the Orsini and Savelli. 

From the Bi'idge of St. Angelo to the Vatican. — The 
5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian 
(a. d, 136) and named Pons u^lius. 10 colossal angel- 
statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the 
end rises vast round Castle S. Angelo (I'ee.l 1.), built 
by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on 
summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and 
their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress; 
which repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in 
537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths; 
and a prison, where Beatrice Cenci, Benvenuto Celhni, 
CagHostro, Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc., were 
shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers,, 
inclined planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII. 
took refuge when Bourbon's troops sacked Rome), and 
grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, com- 
memoratmg Gregory the Great's vision of Archangel 
Michael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which 
the plague ceased to devastate Rome (heuce name of 
castle) A covered way runs hence to the Vatican. 
Near by is enormous S. Spirito Hospital, for sick, 
aged, lunatics, and foundlings (open 2-4), accommo- 
dating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads 
by several chs. and palaces {Giraud, Ricciardi, etc.), and 
the Piazza Rusticucci, where Raphael died, to the mag- 
nificent St. Peter's Square (Piazza di S. Pietro^, 
1110 X 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric, 
colonnades, built by Bernini in 1667, and composed of 



ROME. 351 

284 columns and 90 pilasters, each 41^ ft. high. On the 
roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In centre of 
square (or rather circle) stands an Obelisk brought by 
Caligula from Egyptian Heliopolis, and set up here in 
1586. At each side is a haudsome fountain (46 ft. high) , 
Entrance to St. Peter's in front ; to the Vatican, to the 
' r., at end of colonnade. St. Peter's was built by 
Constantine (a.d. 326), on site of Nero's circus, where 
St. Peter was martyred, and surrounded by rich chs.^ 
convents, etc. Charlemagne and many emperors and 
popes were crowned there. In 1450-1626 the present; 
ch. was built, having among its architects Bramante, 
Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79th 
year), Pontana, and Bernini. It cost over $60,000,000 ; 
took 176 years (the reigns of 28 popes) to build; and 
covers 240,000 sq., ft., being the largest ch. in the world. 
Total length, 696 ft. ; length of transept, 450 ft. ; 
length of nave, 619 ft. ; width of nave, 88 ft. (height, 
153 ft.) ; height of dome and cross, 470 ft. ; diameter, 
141 ft. Pagade (finished in 1612), 369 ft. long, 165 ft. 
high, crowned by statues of Christ and Apostles, each 
19 ft. high. Portico, 234 X 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with 
colossal statues of Constantine and Charlemagne, Giot- 
to's mosaic of La Navicella, and brazen central doors 
(made in 1447). Interior has 30 altars, 148 columns 
(mostly from ruins of ancient Rome) ; inlaid marble 
pavement (see stones showing length of other great 
chs.), brilliantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian 
pillars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter 
enthroned, many colossal statues of saints, vast in- 
scriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high 
made by Bernini (1633) of bronze from Pantheon, high 
altar over tomb of St. Peter (which is approached by 
marble stairs, and surrounded by 112 ever-burning 
laniDs), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and 



352 THE VATICAN. 

beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings 
by great masters, and statues by Michael Angelo, 
Canova, Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria Sobieski, 
several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Christina of Sweden, 
etc. In Sacristy (1775), see 3 chapels, many rare 
pictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury, see candelabra! 
by CeUini and Angelo, Charlemagne's dalmatic, and | 
rare jewels. The Crypts are very interesting, with many 
chapels, mosaics, carvings, and tombs. 137 popes were 
buried in St. Peter's. The Borne (open daily, 8-10), 
630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof ^to which, 
143 steps). Look down into ch. from inner gallery. 
Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand 
view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb 
into ball under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). 
Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast propor- 
tions. At its side and rear, see ancient German ceme- 
tery and hospice ; and Palace of the Inquisition Oiow 
barrack's). 

The Vatican, the largest palace in the worlu, ad- 
joins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls 
and rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first papal 
palace here in 498 ; and Charlemagne dwelt therein. 
After return from Avignon the popes lived here, desert^ 
ing the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was en- 
larged by successive popes, from designs by Bramante, 
■Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss 
guards, designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splen- 
did Scala Regia to Sistine Chapel, built and named 
for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 X 45 ft. in area (best 
light at morning). Prescos by Signorelli, Botticelli, 
etc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Micliael Angelo 
(1508-11), Creation, Fall, Deluge, Prophets and 
Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo's terri- 
ble and incomparable Last Judgment. See Paulin»> 



ROME. 353 

€hapel (1540), with other frescos bj Augelo ; Salct 
Ducale, frescos by Brill; and Sala Regia, historical 
frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with 
Biblical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beautiful 
stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms con- 
■^aining the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508-20), the 
j'D'isputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus, 
Attila, Liberation of St, Peter, etc. The Chapel of 
Nicholas V. has spiritual frescos bj Pra Augelico 
{1447). The Picture-Grallery contains paintings 
taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed 
here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael's 
Transfiguration and Madonna di Foligno, Domeni- 
chino's St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Pra An- 
gelico, Titian, Guido, Murillo, etc. The Museum of 
8i'.alptures (closed Mon. and Thur., 2-4) contains 
1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belvedere, Perseus of 
Cmova, Laocoon, Tuno, Minerva Medica, Mercury, 
Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcopha- 
gis of Empress Helena; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 15 
splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc.) ; Belvedere 
Court ; Sala delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble col- 
li inns ; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon ; Hall 
of Greek Cross; magnificent Tapesfri/ of Raphael 
(151")-16), representing Biblical scenes; Gregorian 
Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 12 rooms ; Bgyptian 
Museum, 10 rooms; Library and Archives, 200,000 
vols, and 34,000 MSS. (many of them very precious) ; 
jiapal manufactory of mosaic, where 10,000 colors and 
shades of glass are used ; and gardens of Yatican. 

Stroll down the riverside Lungara, nearly 1 M. 
long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter's 
and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Passing under Gate 
of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio ch. (1439)^ 
with tombs of Tasso and Mezzofauti Adjacent moa- 



35 t TRASTEVERE. — JANICULAN HILL. 

astei-y lias Leonardo's Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak. 
Tarther down Longara, see fine Palazzo Salviati (now 
<'ivic archives); Botanical Gardens; very beautifu^' 
"Villa Farnesina (1506), with Raphael's famous fres- 
cos of Psyche and Galatea; and Palazzo Corsini 
(open daily 10-4, adm. 1 fr.), with 9 halls of paint- 
ings, 8 of books and MSS., and a garden of rare beanty. 
Enter, hj 'Porta Settimiana, into Trastevere (from 
Traiis-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be 
direct descendants of the ancient E-omans. See 12th- 
century basilica of S. Crisogotio, near which mosaic- 
paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company of old 
Homan (3d-century) fire department ; S. Maria Traste- 
vere, built by Calixtus I. (a.d. 217), with 22 antique 
columns, mosaics, etc, ; St. Cecilia (a.d. 222), with 
mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble col- 
umns, and tomb of St. Cecilia, whose house stood oi* 
this site. 

On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, command' 
ing a noble panoramic view of Rome and nits., see S. 
Pietro in Montorio (1500), on, site of St. Peter's; 
martyrdom, with many ancient paintings; Tempietto 
(1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Dorie 
columns ; Acqua Paola, a magnificent old fountain, 
Dutlet of Trajan's aqueduct ; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine 
views near) ; and Villa Doria Pamfili, a. very lovelj 
park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill 
should not be omitted. 

Between Trastevere and the Ghetto, in the Tiber, i& 
the Island of S. Bartolommeo (ancient bridges 
from both shores), with Cli. of S. Bartolommeo (built 
A.D. 1000), vrith 14 ancient columns, on site of a 
heathen temple (^^scnlapius was worshipped here). 
The island also has ? large monasteryjtJ^ A^fountain- 
jidorned square. 



ROME. 355 

The Capitol is reached by asphalt stairs from Piazztt 
Ara Uoel'i, with Egyptian lions at base, and marble 
OioscLiri (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the 
cop. See, also, the Trophies of Mariiis ; antique statues 
ol Constantine and Constans ; and male and female 
wolves, caged. The Piazza del Campidoglio, planned 
by Michael Angelo and built by Paul III. (1536), has 
in its centre the famous and unrivalled antique bronze 
equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, anciently sup- 
posed to represent Constantine, and placed before the 
Lateran from 1187 to 1538. The palaces on three 
sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Pal- 
ace of the Conservators (r. side; open 10-3) con- 
tains halls of busts of celebrated Italians, Latin sculp- 
tures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from 
Punic and Cimbrian wars, and a gallery of 200-30() 
paintings. In the Capitoline Museum (1. side ; open 
10-3) see Marforio, the colossal river-god, and sarco- 
phagi ; halls of bronzes and urns ; ancient marble plan 
of Konie; exquisitely fine mosaic of Doves of Pliny; 
82 antique busts of emperors ; antique statues of the 
philosophers and gods ; and vast number of famous 
classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, 
Antinous, rosso-antico Eaun, Dying Gladiator, and 
Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace 
of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389, 
and adorned by Michael Angelo, It is now the town- 
hall. The campanile (1572) commands a fine view, 
and contains great bell. Just S. E. is the Tarpeian 
Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Forum. 
High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple 
of Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of S.Maria in Ara Cceli, 
with homely front, and interior adorned with 22 an- 
tique columns of assorted si^.es, many paintings, chapel 
©f the Bambino, tomb of Si. Helena, etc Adjacent \% 



356 TKAJAX'S COLUMN. 

splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with two 
courts, now a barrack. While hearing the monks 
chant inAraCceli (1764), Gibbon conceived \h& 
idea of his famous history. 

The Mamertine Prison, between Ara Coeli and 
rorum (fee, ^1.);. was built by the early kings of 
Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtba, 
Vercingetqrix, Joras, and Catiline's allies ; and here St. 
Peter was imprisoned (they show pillar to which he 
was chained). 

Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th-cen- 
tury Ch. of S. Teodoro ; temple of Janus OuadrifronSt 
built in Constantine's time ; 4th-century basihca of S. 
Giorgio in Velahro, with antique columns ; Arcus Ar^ 
gentaritis, built by merchants of adjacent Forum 
Boarium (eattle-market) to Septimius Severus; mouth 
<)f great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. 
of S. Maria in Cosmedin, on site aud with columns of 
King Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with handsome 
8th-century campanile; round temple (of Vesta, or 
Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 20) Corinthian 
columns ; pretty little Ionic temple, now Cli. of 8. 
Maria Egiziaca; Rouse of Rimzi (10th century) ; and 
Ponte Rotto (^Pons jEmilius), with suspension-bridge 
filhng place of arcLes swept away in 1598, leading 
to Trastevere. 

Trajan's Column, 87 ft. Mgh (138 ft. with base 
and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral 
bas-relief, 3 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,500 
human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war. Tra- 
jan was buried beneath. Stairs inside to top. Close 
by, see remains of vast Basilica Ulpia, buih. a.d. 111- 
114, by Apollodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once 
the grandest building iu Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome 
di Maria (1683) and Loreio O-507). Near by are frag- 



EOME. 357 

ments of Forum of Augustus, of wliicli a massive wall, 
450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars Ultor 
remain. Tiie Academy of St. Luke (open 9-3) contains 
statuary by Canova and Tliorwaldsen, and mauy fine 
old paintings, including veiled pictures by Titian, etc. 
This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing 
fragment o1 Nerva's Forum. 

The Palace of the Caesars consists of enormous 
ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome, 
where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catihne, Cicero, Au- 
gustus, Tiberius, Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodoric, etc. 
i'ifty years ago the Palatine was a hill of vineyards, 
with convents, but the emperors of Russia and Prance 
began excavations, which Italy has continued (open 
daily, adm, 1 f r. ; Sun. free). Enter from Porum, 
aud see Museum, with articles found here ; foundations 
of Caligula's palace ; parts of Tiberius' s palace ; hand- 
some private house of Livia, with mural jaaintings ; Pla- 
vian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple 
of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock; 
school-house ; and other very interesting ruins. (Get 
local guide.) 

The Forum Romanum was a marshy space be- 

tween the Capitol and Palatiue, the battle-ground of 

Sabines and Romans, afterwards the centre of their state, 

embellished with many splendid temples and statues, the 

i scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils 

1 which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some 

1 of the temples became chs. and others were torn down 

I for building materials; and tlie troops who came to the 

aid of IIildebrau.'\ in the 11th century, completed the 

destruction. Over this rubbish-heaped Campo Vaccina 

(cow-pasture), fortresses and tiouses arose. In 1536, 

Pau] III. began to clear the gnund, but little was done 

until 1803. Since 1871 extensive woi'ks have been caj^ 



358 ' FORUM ROMANUM. 

ried on. The original level was 30 ft. below the pres- 
ent. The remains of the Tabularium (built B.C. 87), 
vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of de- 
crees and records, now serve as foundations for Palace 
of the Senator. See its ponderous arcades and gallery, 
and view. over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimius 
JSeverus is covered with sculptures of the victories of 
Septimius, and his sons Caracalla and Geta, over the 
Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a 
mediaDval castle ; v^as excavated in 1803. Back of it are 
remains of Temple of Concord (b.c. 366, restored by 
Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero 
impeached Catiline. The tall white columns near by 
pertained to the Temple of Vespasian (once of Jupiter 
|Tonans), built by Domitiai;i and restored by Septimius 
and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola Xantha,t]ie 
I home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the 
I Twelve Gods (built a.d. 367, by an anti-Christian prae- 
f ect) . 8 granite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's 
Temple, pertained to Temple of Satttrn. Near by 
were the orators' tribunes {rostra), often used by 
Cicero. Two marble slabs from the rostra have beau- 
tiful reliefs. Remains of the tomh of Romulus with 
early Latin inscriptions were unearthed in 1899. The 
Column of Phocas was erected in 608, in honor of a 
Greek emperor. Near by, see Basilica Julia, 333 by 
149 ft., built by Caesar, with parts of its many pillars 
remaining. 3 Parian-marble columns still stand on 
site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollux (builtj 
B.C. 484 ; rebuilt a.d. 6). On E. are foundations of Te7 
pie of Ccesar, where Mark Antony delivered hi^ 
funeral oration. The Temple of Faustina (a.d. 141),* 
with 10 marble columns, encloses the ch. of S. Lor- 
enzo in Miranda. An ancient burial vault was dis- 
covered here in 1902. Numerous vaulted passages 
beneath tho pavement of the Forum were discov- 
ered during the excavations in 1901, Seventh 



ROME. 35^ 

century ch. of S. Adriaiio is on site of Curia Hostilia. 
The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Cap- 
itol, lies 20 ft. below the road. The circular Temple of 
Romulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with 
porphyry columns, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics, 
and tombs of saints. The Basilica of Const antine, origi- 
nally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches 
xemaining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch. oiS. 
Francesca Romana (interesting tombs and relics) are 
ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome, de- 
signed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as 
emperor (a.d. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of 
Titus, small, but very interesting and graceful, com- 
memorates the victories over the Jews, a.d. 70. It was 
a mediaeval fortress of the Erangipani. See the bas- 
reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast 
building named, from colossal statue of Nero, the Colos- 
seum, Rome's chief marvel. It was founded by Ves- 
pasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the 
work (a.d. 80) ; 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain 
at its inauguration; the scene of countless fights of 
gladiators and wild beasts; and of magnificent celebra- 
tion of 1000th anniversary of Rome's foundation (a.d. 
248) ; afterwards fortress of Erangipani, Annibaldi, 
etc. ; in 14;tli and 15th centuries a quarry, its fine ma- 
sonry being used to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Mar- 
co, and other vast palaces ; about 1750 redeemed, and 
consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, ^ 
M. around and 156 ft. high, with arena 279 by 174 ft, 
in area, which could be flooded for naval combats; 
■50,000 spectators could be accommodated, Duly \ of 
the Colosseum now stands. Visit it by moonlight also. 
The adjacent .A.roh of Constantine, the most beau- 
tiful in Rome, commemorates the victory over Max- 
^nrius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the 



360 BATHS OF TITUS. — S. STEFANO EOTONDa 

Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures vrere 
taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius YII. 
unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remains of 
sumptuous Baths of Titus (^ fr.), on the Esquiline^ 
on part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful mu- 
ral paintings here, which suggested Raphael's frescos in 
Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the oldest ch. in Rome^ 
is midway between the Colosseum and Lateran. Up- 
per ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mo- 
saics, and rich canopy. The lower ch., built before 392, 
and damaged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has 
been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns 
and 5th-century frescos (very interesting). Still far- 
ther down are remains of St. Clement's (4th pope) 
house, discovered in 1867. (See Hachettes guide- 
book.) Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS. 
Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Diocletian, 
- — very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard's Normans, and 
restored in 1111 ; S. JBtefano Rotondo, the largest 
circular ch. in -existence, built by Simplicius in 470^ 
with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible mar 
tyrdoms; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with man} 
columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosa, 
ics ; 5th-century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist 
monastery and garden ; S. Gregorio (575), 16 antique 
columns, part of St. Gregory's house, a bit of Servian 
Wall, and 3 very interesting detached chapels. 

The broad Piazza of S. Giovanni in Laterano has a 
red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with pedestal, 153 ft.), 
erected at Thebes, B.C. 1560 ; brought to Rome by 
Constantine, a.d. 357; and set up here in 1587. Oij 
one side, Women's Hospital; opposite which see Scala 
Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empress 
Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to liave entered 
Pilate's palace, at Jerusalem., Xliey are ascended on 



EOME. S6i 

the knees only, and lead to very sacre.d cl'apel (1278). 
Here, alongside wall of Rome, and overlooking Cam- 
pagiia and rats., stands venerable basilica of aS*. Giooanni 
in Lateran, on whose front is inscribed Omnium urbi» 
ei orbis eccleuarum mater et caput. This is the Pope's. 
cb. as Bishop of Home ; at St. Peter's he is sovereign 
Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils werp^ 
held here, between 1123 and 1512. Constantine built 
first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani family. 
Present ch. built 1360-1734. Fa9ade with colossal 
statues, bronze doors, statue of Constantine. Inte- 
rior has grand nave, with 4 aisles, inlaid pavement^ 
massive pillars with 21 statues of Prophets and Apos- 
tles, bronze statue of Martin Y., Altar of the Sacramenfc 
(with antique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old 
mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., mag- 
nificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with precious stones)^ 
Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatel- 
lo's wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini'* 
Pietk, and the great Papal Altar, over which is a canopy 
containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 
13th-centui*y monastery court adjacent : also octagonal 
Baptisfejy, in which it is said tiiat Constantine wa»> 
baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt font, bronze- 
doors (1193), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories- 
(built in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace 
the popes iwelt for a thousand years (lo 1377). Pres- 
ent palacb ouilt in 1586 ; and in 1843 converted into 
vast and interesting museum (open 9-4) of antique^ 
sculptures, Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (ironj 
catacombs), and picture-gallery filling 8 rooms, with, 
remarkable Litin mosaics. 

S= Croce in Gerusalemme, among lonely fields^ 
between Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-ceii- 
t»' f basilica, founded by Empress Helena, on earth* 



362 BATHS OF CARACALLA. 

tjrouglit from Jerusalem, with mosaics, frescos, tombs 
of saints, and the Inscription on the Cross, Cistercian 
monasterj adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins 
of Castrensian Amphitheatre, etc. To N., ruins of 3d- 
.-century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica, once rich 
in statues; and near rly., 8. Bibiana (470), with an- 
tique columns inside. In casino of Villa Massimo, 
on Piazza Lateran, rich modern frescos from Dante, 
"Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Schnorr, etc. Villa 
Wolkonslcy near by. 

The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Cestius, at Porta 
S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with 
chamber 19 X 13 ft., where the tribune Caius Cestius 
was buried (b.c. 30). Close by are the Protestant 
Cem.eteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of 
ihe lieart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely 
Monte Testaccio, 164 ft. high, composed entirely of 
broken pottery, crowned by a cross (grand view hence), 
and cut into by wine-sellers' grottos. To the N., see 
.ancient Latin Emporium and quays of Marmorata ; also 
3 chs. on Aventine : S. Sabina, built in 425, in basihoa 
form, witli 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian 
marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican mon- 
.astery (beautiful cloisters) ; S. Alessio, very ancient, 
restored in 1217, with Hieronymite monastery adjoin- 
ing ; and S. Maria Aventina, with tombs of Xnights of 
Malta, whose priory is close by. 

The Baths of Caracalla (fee, 1 1.), nearly 1 M. 
from Arch of Constantine (by 8. Balbina, a very ancient 
43h., with open roof), still show remains of their an- 
43ient vastness and magnificence. They cover an area 
1,080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers. 
•Caracalla was the founder (a..d. 212). Many famous 
statues were discovered here. Splei did view from roof, 
l^ear by, see ch. of Si3. Nereo ei Achilleo, built by 



THE APPIAN WAY. 365 

Leo III. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, iu basilica 
style; S. Sisto, and convent of S. Bomeni^.o ; very 
ancient S. Cesareo ; and, near the closed Porta Latina, 
old clis. of S. Giooanni, and a Latin tomb. Beyond 
Tomb of the Scipios Q fr.) and Columbaria, the street 
passes the mutilated Archof Drusus (b.c. 8), and enters 
the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate. 

The Appian Way (called Regitia Viaruni) was 
begun B.C. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua,, 
and afterwards to Brindisi, forming main route to S. 
Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX. it 
was excavated as far as Fratocchie, 11 M. out, on rly. 
to Albano. Beautiful views all along, of Campagna, 
aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine qua 
Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Deus Rediculus^ 
a handsome little building of Hadrian's era ; the Grotto 
of Egeria ; a red-brick 2d-century tomb, or temple, 
now the ch. of S. JJrbano (with frescos of a.d. 1011) ; 
and the tombs on the Via Latina. Ou Via Appia are- 
Catacombs of S. Calixtus (fee, 1-2 1.), with tombs 
of St. CeciUa and many 2d and 3d century popes and 
martyrs, and 7th-century Byzantine paintings. Cata- 
combs of Domitilla and St. Prcetextatus near by. \ M. 
beyond is very ancient S. Sebastiano ch., under which 
are extensive catacombs (1 1.). Earther on see remains- 
of Circus of Maxentiiis, built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, 
with. seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands 
the famous Tomb of Gfjecilia Metella, round, 05 ft. in 
diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished 
castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by 
ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement 
is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far 
prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. 6 
M. ouf is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb ; and it is 8 M. 
the^\-,T to Albano. _ Near . 4th milestone is Tomb oj 



364 THE CAMPAGNA. 

.Seneca (so called), near site of Seneca's house, and also 
near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where 
many Christians suifered martyrdom. 3 tumuli, 1 M. 
beyond, are thought to be the tombs of the Horatii and 
Curiatii. At 9th milestone are ponderous brick ruins of 
villa and tomb of Emperor Gallienus. 

£:scursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a 
great rolling plain of volcanic earth, between the sea 
.and the Sabine Mts., with shallow ravines and low steep 
hills. Pools of water collect here in winter, and stag* 
nate in summer, giving forth the terrible malaria which 
makes K-ome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tourist 
should see Italy in lier fair summer attire; and an 
August sojourn may be made at Rome with safety, by 
taking due precautions after sundown, and keeping in. 
doors at evening. 

The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lorenzo fu- 
ori le Mura, f M. beyond Porta di S. Lorenzo, on tomb 
of St. Lawrence, was founded bv Constantine ; rebuilt 
in 578 ; remodelled in 1216 ; an^ restored in 1864-70. 
See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square ; fafade 
with frescos of founders ; 10th-century mosaic pave- 
ment ; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding 
open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Corin- 
thian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble columns 
in presbytery ; silver shrine with remains of St. Law- 
fence ; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great 
cemetery near. In vestibule Pius IX. is buried. The 
basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mura, beyond the 
Patrizi and Torlonia villas, 1^ M. outside Porta Pia, 
"Was built by Constantine, over St. Agnes's tomb, and 
restored in 625 and 1856. Beyond court, 45 marble 
steps lead down to the ch., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 
16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with por- 
phyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agues. 



ROME. 365 

Adjacent is S. Costanza, built by Constantine as 
tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting- 
on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of 
Constantia, and 4th century mosaics. 

S. Paolo fuori le Mura, 1\ M. from Porta S. 
Paolo (omnibus every half hour from Palazzo 
Venezia), on Ostian road, alongside the Tiber, is on 
site of a deeply venerated church built by Constan- 
tine, over St. Paul's tomb, and magnificently en- 
riched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but 
burnt in 1823. Present church, consecrated in 1854, 
of valuable materials and imposing proportions, is 
S90 X 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Won- 
derfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80 
enormous Simplon-granite columns, whose bases and 
capitals are of marble ; long lines of mosaic portraits 
of all the popes; and stained-glass windows. See 
alabaster columns given by Viceroy of Egypt ; 
malachite altars, given by the Czar; 5th century 
mosaics; splendid altar-canopy (1285); and rich 
chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secularized) 
Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding orange- 
grove. 2 M. hence is S. Sehastiano (p. 363); and 
out on Via Ardeatina (1^-2 M.) are abbey and three 
chs. (393-1599) of Tre Fontane, where St. Paul was 
beheaded. 

The handsome Ponte Molle, 1-^ M. (dull road) 
from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of 
Milvian Bridge, built B.C. 109, where Maxentius was 
slain, after being defeated by Constantine (a.d. 312). 
3 M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral- 
spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vig- 
nola built for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle 
are the far-viewing, rock-tombs of the Nasones, the 
Yilla of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin. 

Monte Mario, 1^ M. from Porta Angelica, is a bold 
hill (road to top), 476ft. high, commanding superb 



Z66 TORRE DEI SCHIAVI. — ALBANO, 

view of Eome, the Campagiia, tlic mis., and the sea. 
There are several villas here, among which see Killa 
Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Madama, de- 
signed by Raphael, and owned in turn by Clement VII.,, 
the Farnese family, and the King of Naples. See 
loggia, with frescos by Giulio Homano. 

The Via Nomenlana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M., 
from which' it crosses the Anio by an ancient bridge. 
1^ M. beyond is Ihe famous Mons Sacer; and the 
road is prolonged to the battle-field of Mentana (1867). 

The Via Pranestina leads from Porta Maggiore to 
(2 M.) the Torre dei Schiavi, a favorite resort of 
artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once 
pertaining to the villa of Gordiau, and in Middle Ages 
used for a cli. and a castle. 3 M. from Porta Mag- 
giore, on Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum 
of the Empress Helena (now a ch.). 

The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from Porta 
Portese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, with scanty 
remains of temple and h;dl of ancient agricultural 
brotherhood of the Fratres Arvales, founded by the 
foster-brothers of Romulus, to invoke the Goddess of 
Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of S. 
Generosa ; also (near Magliana stat.), chateau of La 
Magliana, once frescoed by Raphael. 

The Via Salara leads from the Salarian Gate ta 
(2|^M.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, de- 
stroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up 
in 1867. On far- viewing height close by stood Antem- 
nse, a town destroyed by Romulus ; and 4 M. beyond, 
near Castel Giubileo (built by Boniface YIII. in 1300), 
ave the scanty ruins of Pidenae. 

Albano {Hotel de la Poste ; Eistorante Salus- 
tri) is 18 miles from Rome (1 hr. ; fares, 31. 90 c., 
31. 10 c, 11. 90 c.), by rly. across Carapagna, crossing 



ITALY. 367 

lines of aqueducts and Via Latina, Climb of | hr. 
(2^ M.) from stat. to Albauo (omnibus, ^1.). Omni» 
buses run twice daily from Rome to Albano (2^ hrs. 5 
2| L). You can also drive hither over Appian Way. 
At Albano were Pompey's Villa, Domitian's great 
Albanum, the vineyards whose wine Horace praised, 
and the mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has many 
Koman relics, especially in the Villa Boria (open to^ 
visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and 
its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. The 
town is famous for handsome women. Beyond the 
Villa Barberini is the large papal palace of Castel 
Gandolfo, still pertaining to the Pope. Beautiful 
view from Capuchin Monastery. Good roads on 
upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an 
extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the love- 
liest of Italian lakes. The Romans (b.c. 397) cut a 
tunnel (still remaining) through the rock, and partly 
drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Longa was 
near by. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,020 ft. 
long and 192 ft. high (built 1846-63), crosses the glen 
from Albano to ancient Ariccia {MarforelW), a town 
and palace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead 
through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a village 
near reputed camp of Hannibal. The Via Triumphalis 
ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high ; very 
broad view), where are remains of great Temple of 
Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League 
(Passionist monastery founded here in 1783). This 
region is described tiy Virgil in last books of ^neid, 
where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin and 
Roman armies. Beautiful scenery toward Genzano 
{Torti), 3 M. from Albano, whence one overlooks 
the crystalline Lake of N end, 2| M. around, and 300 ft. 
deep, in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lake. 



368 FRASCATI. - TIVOLI. 

which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple 
of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a 
splendid vessel afloat. 

Frascati \{Frascati; Pannelli), 15 M. by ry. from 
Rome (fares; 2 1. 70 c, 2 1. 15 c, 1 1. 30 c), is on a 
foot-hill of the Alban Mts., in a very healthy 
climate. It has many fine old 16th century villas, 
among which see Aldohrandini, with fine fountains 
and oak groves ; Falconieri (1550), with many 

Eictures and pretty gardens ; Buffinella, now owned 
I y Prince Lancelotti ; Mondragone, now a Jesuits' 
\ school ; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived. 
I A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, founded 
j by Ulysses's son Selegonus, the birthplace of Cato, 
^ and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out 
I valiantly against Hannibal, but was destroyed by a 
I papal Koman army in 1191. See Roman ampM- 
iheatre, recently excavated Villa of Cicero, reser- 
\voir, CamaldoU Convent, and lofty Citadel (2,218 
! ft. high) , with magnificent view. 3 M. distant, 
I by a forest-road, is Grotta Ferrata, a Greek 
Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous 
I frescos by Domenichino. Hence a guide will lead 
in 1^ hrs. to Rocca,di Papa and Monte Cavo. 4^ M. 
distant is Marino, an old Orsini fortress on Alban 
\ Mts., captured in 1424 (and still held) by the 
Colonnas. Good pictures in the three ehs. Three 
\ jy[. hence is rly. stat., 35 min. (2 1., li 1., 1 1.) 
from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolf o 
and Albano. 

I Tivoli {Plebiscito; Regina; Sibilla) is 25 M. from 
Rome by ry. (ret., 4 1. 55 c, 3 1. 20 c, 2 1. 5c.) or car- 
riage (1-horse, 151. ; 2-horse, 201.), passing near Grotto 
of Cervara. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 
centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camillus, 
B.C. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Propertius 
and CatuUus ; and here Zenobia passed her captivity. 



ITALY. 869 

Augustus, Hadrian, and other emperors and nobles 
had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 7,000 
inhab. 1 M. out is Hadrian's Villa (get permit at 
Palazzo Braschi, Rome), once the finest in the world, 
with many imposing buildings, covering several square 
M. It was destroyed by Totila's Goths, and only the 
most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular 
Corinthian Temple of the Sibyl (probably dedicated 
to Hercules or Vesta) and the oblong Ionic temple 
adjacent (now oh. of S. Giorgio) command a fine view 
of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Neptune and 
Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 330 ft. high; the 
smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of 
scenery here, and Roman ruins ; also. Villa BrascTii, 
overlooking Campagna, and Villa d' Este (1549), with 
very lovely gardens and ancient frescos. Many 
charming excursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte, 
Gennaro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by 
bridle path. It is 11^ M. from Tivoli to Valley of 
Licenza, site of Horace's Sabinum farm. 23 M. 
(5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco {La Pernice), a 
mediaeval castle-crowned town, built on remains of 
Nero's villa, and with very famous monastries of S. 
Scolastica and S. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters 
on site where St. Benedict lived. 

Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome (daily omnibus), 12 
from Frascati, 4^ from Valmontone stat., was the 
ancient Prceneste; conquered by Camillus (B.C. 380); 
headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman summer- 
resort (see Horace); scene of terrible wars between 
Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages ; and since 1630 
the property of the Barberini. See Cyclopean walls, 
immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini 
Palace, Colonna fortress (1322), and vast view over 
Campagna. 

Bracciano (Piva), 24 M. from Rome (omnibus 
alternate days, in 6 hrs. ; 4 1.), has a wonderful old 



370 OSTIA. - NAPLES. 

Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott 
greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and. 
is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from 
tower. Adjacent lake Is 20 miles around, and. 
: abounds in eels. 

Ostia, 14 M. from Eome, near mouth of Tiber,, 
once had 80,000 inhab., but now lias scarcely 100. 
The Saracens were terribly defeated here about a.d. 
850. See S. Aurea Episcopal Palace, and tombs, 
temples and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport 
of classic age. 2 M. hence is very interesting Castel 
Fusano, a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1^ M. 
from sea, in great pme-forest. 

There are many other deeply interesting excursions; 
near Rome. See Hare's Days Near Borne, Baede- 
ker's Ce?itral Italy, Murray, Hachette or Cook. 

Naples, Baia, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri. 

Express trains, Rome to Naples, 5|- hrs. (fares^ 
34^1., 33^1.); ordinary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower). 
Some travellers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by 
rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely 
view entering the Bay of Naples. 

Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence and Rome, iu 
53 hrs. (fares, 346^ fr., 203 fr. 10 c). 

Marseilles to Naples by sea, 181 fr., 138 fr. Naples 
is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean: 
ports. Steamships sail frequently for Alexandria, 
Tunis, Cagliari, Messina, Palermo, Genoa, Leghorn,, 
and Marseilles. 

* Hotels. — Bertolini^s Palace ; Parker's ; Bristol; 
MacpTierson's ; Eden ; Metropole ; du Vesuve ; de 
Londres ; Grand ; des Etrangers ; Splendid ; Santa 

' Lucia ; Grande Bretagne. 

I Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving at 

^ Naples, by excise o£S.cers, but formalities are slight. 



NAPLES. 371 

Conveyances. — Hotel omnibus, 1^1. ; public omni- 
bus, 20 c. Baggage, 20 c. a piece. 2-horse cab, 1 1. 
40 c. ; 1-horse cab, 70 c. Smallboats from steamship 
to shore, 1 1. each person, 1^ with usual baggage. Pay 
no attention to extortionate demands, with which 
boatmen usually begin. Beware of beggars and 
people who offer their services. 

A rly. runs N.-E. (124 M. ; 5-6 hrs.) from Naples 
across Italy, by Benevento, to Foggia, on the Adri- 
atic, connecting there with rly. to Brindisi and 
Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy. By this 
route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna. 

The rly. from Rome to Naples passes Velletri, an 
-ancient Volscian town (16,500 inhab.), with fine old 
Cathedral ; Sgurgola, 4i M. from Anagni, a famous 
old papal town; Ferentitio stat.,3 M. from Ferentino, 
a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, cathedral 
and huge polygonal walls; Frosinone stat.,2^ M. from 
beautifully situated hill-town oL Frosinone, and 9-10 
M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclopean walls; 
Ceprano stat., 2^ M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for 
Falls of the Liris and Cicero's Villa ; Aquino, birth- 
place of Emperor Pescennius Niger, Juvenal, and 
Thomas Aquinas ; Cassino (or S. Germano), a busy 
town, with Roman amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and 
tombs (a climb of 1|- hr. leads to the world-renowned 
and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte 
Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views) ; 
Teano, with great castle and Roman remains ; Capua, 
a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania 
Felice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch, 
ancient chs. ; and S. llaria, on site of ancient Capua, 
with amphitheatre for 100,000 persons, and other 
Roman ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and 
populous plain of the Terra di Lanjoro, to Naples. 

Naples is a city of 500,000 inhab., with little of 
architectural or antiquarian interest, but blest with a 



372 NAPLES. -- CHIAJA. 

superb situation, mild climate, and beautiful environs. 
It is built on the ampbitheatrical slopes of bills, shelter- 
ing it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected by the 
abrupt ridge of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone. Its view 
includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around 
the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and 
crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old 
name of Via Toledo, runs N. 1| M. from Palazzo 
Keale, near the harbor. The vast and interesting 

National Museum (open daily, 9-3, 1 1., children, 
•|1. ; no fees allowed ; free, Sunday, 10-1), is in old 
Spanish cavalry-barracks (1586), occupied by Univer. 
sitj, 1615=1780. There is a good handbook. See 
1,600 ancient mural paintings, from Pompeii, etc. ; 
epigraphic collection ; long range of rooms with Egyp. 
tian and Etruscan antiquities ; finest existing collectioii 
of ancient bj'onzes, including Dancing Faun, Narcissus, 
Mercury, Sleeping Faun, and bust of Seneca ; 18,000 
small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc. ; immense collec* 
lions of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumsean antiquities, 
numismatic objects ; many marble and bronze statues, 
including Farnese Bull (restored by Michael Angelo), 
Farnese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean, 
Flora, Nile, Farnese Juno, J]]schines, Balbus ; famous 
mosaics of Battle of Issus and Triumph of Bacchus ; 
great collection of papyri MSS., from Herculaneum; 
7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases; and gems, 
jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Pic- 
ture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan, 
Bolognese, Uoman, Venetian, German, and Flemish, 
including several by Eaphael, Titian, and Correggio. 
The Library (open 9-3) has 200,000 vols., 4,000 
MSS., and many valuable autographs. 

The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a 
«iarrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posilippo ridges 



NAPLES. 373 

and the harbor, with pretty parks (music at evening) 
along waterside. On E., projecting into the sea, is the 
black and gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often 
besieged, and now a prison. Thence S^racla S\ Lucia 
leads to Arsenal, through busy and hiteresting scenes. 
Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over wliich one may 
pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column of the martyrs 
for liberty, and the Miranda Palace, to the centre of 
the city. 

The Palazzo Reale (its porter gives permits to all 
the Neapolitan royal palaces) was built in 1000, by 
order of Philip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-41. ' \t 
is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and 
many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harbor 
from garden. Opposite, across handsome Piazza del 
Plebiscito, is_ S. Francesco di Paola, a copy of Roman 
Pantheon, with 30 marble Corinthian columns support- 
ing dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli, and 
many modern pictures. Near by, see Palace of Prince 
of Salerno (official residence), Poresteria Palace, and 
Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles 
III. and Perdiuaad I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is 
Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in the 
world. See public scribes in arcades ; and statues of 
Horse-Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- 
tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and 
enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home of 
the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish 
viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (1470), armory, 
and ch. of S. Sebasfiano, with very famous picture. 
Close by, see Arsenal (1577) ; Porto Militare, witli 
Italian iron-clads ; busy Porto Grande — the shipping 
harbor ; and Molo, a long breakwater, with battery and 
light-house (ascend this, for view). Across the square 
before Castle stands handsome Municipal Palace. 



374 ^(/APLFS. — UNIVERSITY. 

S. Giacomy> degli Spagnuoli (1540) lias splendid 
aiausoieum of Spanish Viceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo, 
INear by is beautiful fountain, erected in 1695 by Duka 
of Medina Celi; also, Incoronata ch.. (1352), within- 
teresting Giottesque frescos ; and Falazzo Fondi, with 
picture-gallery. 

The Monte Olivefo Benedictine Monastery (1411), 
©n Via di Roma, is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt 
in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pic- 
tures. In the rear, see S, Maria la Nuova (1268 ; 
restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs ; and 
Post-Office, in beautiful old Falazzo Qravina (1500). 
Farther along Via di Ro7na, see Falazzo Maddaloni (now 
a bank), with richly frescoed hall ; and Falazzo Angri 
(1773), once Garibaldi's headquarters. Strada S. Triniia 
leads to r. towards Gesu Nuova ch. (1584), with many 
frescos (opposite is refectory of 8. Chiara, with Giot- 
tesque frescos) ; S. Chiara (ISIO), with burial-chapel of 
Bourbons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise 
(1343), pulpit on 4 lions, and Madonna by Giotto; 
lofty and imposing S. Domenico (1285), on a square 
between palaces, and containing 27 princely chapels, 
rich in Benaissance art, altar of Florentine mosaic, 
tombs of the Aragonese sovereigns, and of many 
nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of 
Marquis of Pescara (Vittoria Colonna's husband), and 
many pictures ; cell and lecture-room of Thoma? 
Aquinas (1272) ; Chapel of 8. Severe (1590), crowded 
with decoration, and containing remarkable sculptures 
of Man in the Net and Christ in Winding- Sheet; 
SS. Angela e Nilo (1385) ; University (1224), in 
old Jesuit College, with 5 faculties, and very good 
library (open 9-3) • S. Severino e Sosio, with notable 
tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (adja- 
cent Benedictine monastery has pricejess archives of 



NAPLES. 375 

Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning a.d. 703); P«- 
lazzo Santangelo (1466), with picture-gallery; Cas- 
tello Capuano (1281), once home of Hohenstaufen 
kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present 
law-courts; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), ■ 
a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not 
far from the Gate, was built 1272-1314, on site of , 
Temple of Neptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and j 
tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 3 ; 
popes, 3 kings of hungary, etc. Adjacent is S, \ 
Bestituta, a basilica with Corinthian columns, and I 
baptistery attributed to Constantine (a.d. 333); also, | 
magnificent Chapel of St. Januarius (1608), rich, in ■ 
gold and silver, precious stones, and other adorn- 
ments, and enshrining the blood of the saint. 1-^ M. \ 
beyond Capuan Gate are the great cemeteries, the \ 
New, with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 103 i 
chapels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the i 
burial of the poor ; and the Protestant, with many i 
English and American graves. 

Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see SS, \ 
Annunziata (1757); Porta Nolana; the huge Cas^l 
tello del Carmine (1484), now a barrack and prison; I 
S. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and noble ' 
statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mercato 
(where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with three 
fountains; Carmine Gate, with two massive towers; ' 
and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow 
and sinuous streets, crowded with picturesque Nea- 
politans, macaroni-pedlers, story tellers, fishermen, 
etc. S. Giovanni a Carhonara (1344), N. of Cathe- 
dral, has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus 
(1414). Farther N. are Botanical Gardens and vast 
Poor-House. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, 
see >S'. Filippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; >S^. 
Paolo Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many : 
ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with, i 



376 CASTEL SANT' ELMO. 

many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and BoccacciQ 
li'ave been here) ; the Gothic S. Fietro a Maiella (1316), 
with monastery adjacent, now a school of music, where 
BeUini was taught, and Mercadante was director. 

Opposite Museum stands Ginnasio Vittorio Emanuele 
(1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front. 
!Froni 8th-century ch. of S. Qennaro, enter the Cata- 
combs (fee, 11.), excavated by anxiient Christians, 
and much broader and higher than those at Rome. 
Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out 
is Capodimonte Palace (fee, 11.), built for the 
Bourbon kings (1738-1839), with long lines of state- 
rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, 
and lovely views, f M. distant is the Observatory ^ on 
far-viewing crest of Capodimonte. 

Castel Sant' Elmo (1343), 876 ft. above the bay, 
is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast 
■and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlook- 
ing the city and sea. Close by is old Carthusian 
monastery of S. Martino (now part of National Mu- 
seum; open 9-5; 11.), built in 1325. See museum of 
majolica, ivories, etc.; very beautiful cloisters, sur- 
rounded by white-marble columns, and adorned with 
statues ; and magnificent ch., lined with choice marbles 
and mosaics, and adorned with famous paintings. 
Exquisite views from this monastery. 

Excursions from Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja 
and Villa Nazionale, with their statues, temples, and 
aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore, 
\mder Posilippo, with beautiful sea- views, and by nu- 
merous viUas, and the insulated 17th-century Falace 
of Donna Anna (now in ruins) . Near the Chiaja stands 
ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum_ of the 
poet Sannazaro The road W. from the Chiaja leads 
■through Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel in. 



ITALY. 377 

the rock, ^ M. long, replacing grotta, now closed, cut 
through by Augustus, and mentioned by Seneca. Over 
its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil (^ 1.), a Romaix 
tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King 
Robert visited tliis spot, and planted laurel. Near bj 
was Virgil's villa, where lie wrote the Eclogues and 
Georgics. Road through tunnel leads to Grotto of 
Sejanus (11.), a tunnel cut through the rocky ridge 
by Nerva (b.c. 37), and repaired by Honorius (a.d. 400). 
It .is f M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo 
tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- 
lus, PoUio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of 
Hisida, site of villa where Cicero visited Brutus 
(B.C. 44), after he had killed Csssar; and afterwards of 
Queen Jolianna IT.'s villa (15th century). The Lake- 
of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is f M. from 
FuorigrottoA (where see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.) ;, 
and near by are singular ancient batlis of sulphurous 
gas; also, Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid, 
whose effects are tried on unhappy dogs. It is 6 M, 
from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of 
Greek colony conquered by Rome, and later chief port- 
of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. Here Sylla- 
died ; Hadrian was buried ; St. Paul sojourned 7 days • 
and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples of 
Serapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars- 
rising from sea), and i\\Q Npnplis ; many Roman tombs j 
Fiscina Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin tnonastery 
(1580) ; Roman quay, now called Bridge of Caligula ^ 
Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi ; and Amphitheatre 
(^ 1.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial 
combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Januariujt 
was exposed to the lious. Near by, see Solfatara, a. 
low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, an<i 
many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lav» 



^78 i5AIA. — CUJ^LE. 

in 1198) ; and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill (now vine* 
yards) thrown up in 1538. To the W, lies Lah 
Lucrinus, whence the Romans obtained their best oys- 
ters, and the Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Aver, 
aius, a picturesque crater-pond, 1\ M. around, amid 
chestnut and orange groves, was held to be the entrance 
to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor 
by cutting a canal to Ihe bay. The fabled entrance to 
Hades is shown in adjacent Grotto of the Sibyl (1 1), 
a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotta delta Pace, I M. 
long, leads from W. shore towards Cumse, catting 
through intervening ridge. 

The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing 
%ot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked. 

Baia {Uegina) was the most magnificent of summer- 
resorts in time of Cicero, Augustus, and Hadrian, and 
was praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it; 
mA the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house 
on the site. Here are massive ruins of temples of 
Tenus, Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar, 
Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and 
other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Mi- 
iseno, near site of great Roman naval station of 
Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from 
Baia is Lake ofFusaro, 1\ M. N. of which are ruins of 
great Cuniae, which was founded by Greeks (b.c. 1050), 
and had profound influence in Italy, founding Naples, 
•giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the 
Tarquins, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- 
quered by the Samnites and Romans, The Goths 
restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town ; and 
6 centuries ago the Neapohtans annihilated it, as a den 
of pirates. Near V>y, see Acropolis, with fortifications 
«nd noble views ; half-buried Amphitheatre ; fragments 
of old temples; and hu^e brick arch of drco Felice, 
€4 ft. high. 



VESUVIUS. — HERCULANEITM. 37^ 

Pozzuoli, Baia, Cumee, etc., may be seen in 1 day 
by carriage (25 1.; 1-horse carriage, 10-12 1.). Take 
guide from Naples (5 1.), to escape local annoyances. 

Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 
30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campania, and 
with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In 
A.D. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described 
by Pliny and Tacitus), since which 60 or more have 
occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihi- 
lation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses- 
were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd 
which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept 
away and destroyed by the outbnrsting lava. The cable 
road now obviates much of the labor formerly neces-^ 
sary in ascent. Beaiitif nl view from Ohaervatory; and 
from summit you can see a vast area of sea and land. 
Excursion from Naples to summit and return , 21 1. 
exclusive of fees of official guid^ at summit. 

Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a 
town of Roman villas, was buried by an eruption of 
Vesuvius, A.D. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a 
well was being dug. Since then, excavations have 
shown that 40-90 ft. beneath the present town of Resina 
is a large and splendid ancient city, whose statues,. 
mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the mu- 
seums. It was riclier than Pompeii, but is much more 
deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable covering. 
Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be 
seen (2 1. for guide and torch). The residences and 
shops excavated in 1868 are very interesting; the 
theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to be well 
seen. 

Pompeii (Suisse; Diomede) is nearly 1 hr. from 
Naples (5 trains daily ; fares, 2 1. 75 c, 1 1. 90 c, 
11. 10 c), by rly. passing through Portici (l^,00a 



380 POMPEII. 

diliab.) ; Resina, near La Favorita, royal chateau, and 
at foot of Vesuvius ; and Torre del Greco, swept by 4 
streams of lava witliin 300 years. Beautiful views of 
bay and volcano. Read about Pompeii before going 
there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (2 1. ; 
.guide furnished ; no gratuity ; stay as long as you like). 
Pompeii was a Greek commercial city (b.c. 400-500), 
which was subjugated by Rome, and became a favorite 
resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab,). 
It was overthrown by earthquake, a.d. 63; rebuilt 
immediately; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes 
from Vesuvius, when 2,000 citizens lost their lives. 
Excavations were begun in 1748, and are still going 
on. The walls are 1^ M. around, with 8 gates. The 
streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted 
lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at cor- 
ners. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses 
remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops, 
taverns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very interesting. 
Note Temple of Venus; Forum, where main streets 
converged, with Temple of Jupiter, Prison, Basilica, 
Triumphal Arch, Public Granary, Temple of Mercury y 
beautiful Chalcidicum, Town Hall, Temple of Augustus, 
See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance; 
Triangular Forum ; the two Theatres; barracks of the 
soldiers; House of Sculptor ; Stabice Gate; Temple of 
Isis; House of Holconius; vast amphitheatre, which 
•seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Thermee, Balcony 
House, Houses of Siricus and Marcus Lucretius, of the 
Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand Buke of Tuscany, of 
Figured Capitals, of Black Walls ; Temple of Fortune; 
Public Baths; House of the Vettii; House of the Faun; 
House of Anchor, of tragic Poet (Bulwer describes it 
in Last Days of Pompeii); Fuller^ s Shop; Great and 
Little Fountains; House of Pansa, of Labyrinth, of 



CASEETA. — SORRENTO. 381 

Castor and Pollux, of Centaur, of Meleager, Adonis^ 
Apollo; Academy of Music ; Bake-house; Soap-shop; 
Barber's Shop ; Custom Rouse ; Street of Tombs ; and 
Villa of Biomedes (where several bodies were found), 
beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities 
in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in 
the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (1^ hrs.) 
to cairn of stones on Vesuvius ; whence climb (1 hr. on 
foot) to summit (guide and horse, 101.). 

Caserta (Vittoria), about 30 M. from Naples, ou 
rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Roi/al Palace (1752), 
834 ft. long and wide, and 134 high, with colonnaded 
courts, famous gardens and cascades, beautiful views, 
and sumptuous apartments. See chapel, highly en- 
riched with lapis lazuli and gold ; and theatre, with 16 
antique Corinthian columns of African marble. 

No one should leave Naples without having visited 
Sorrento, Amalfi, and Salerno. Rly. in 1 hr. (3 1. 10 c, 
2 1. 15 c, 11. 25 c), along shore of bay, to Castella- 
mare {Hotel Weiss; Quisisana), a famous Neapolitan 
summer-resort and Italian naval station (33.000 inliab.), 
near overwhelmed ruins of Stabise, and with 13th-cen- 
tury castle, royal cliateau of Quisisana (on the hill), 
and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view 
(guide and donkey, 51.). Here also are famous sul- 
phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road 
{7| M. ; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. and Bay, leads 
hence, by Vico and Mela, and a delicious paradise o/ 
orange and olive groves, to Sorrento {Gran Bretagna; 
jy Angleterre ; Tasso, where Tasso was bom, 1544; 
JSirena; Victoria; Tramontano), an ancient seaport 
ou Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and 
deiiglitfully cool summer-climate (it faces N.). Quaint 
vill'ifyes, ancient chs., natur:»l curiosities, villas and 
c »iiveiits, gleus and myrtle-droves, rockj" islets and 



383 CAPRI. - ISCHIA. 

points, make this region very charming. Steamboats 
leave Naples (S. Lucia) at 9 a.m. daily, for Sorrenta 
(6 1. ; return-tickets, 10 1.), Capri (8 1.; return, 13 I.); 
and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, 5 1., in 
two hours (bad trip in rough weather). 

Capri (Tiberio and Quisisana, both kept hj 
English people ; Pagano; Q-rotte Bleue), the "Island 
of Goats," is 4i M. long, with almost unbroken 
lines of cliffs, and far-viewing mts. 2,000 ft. high. 
There are 4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral 
fishers. Augustus and Tiberius built many villas 
and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly 
fortified by the English; but Murat captured it 
five years later. On E. see ruins of Villa of 
Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto 
di Tiberio, whence the cruel Emperor forced his 
victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. 
See Natural Arch; Grotto of Mithras; lofty village 
of Anacapri, with Barbarossa's castle ; and Monte 
Solaro, with superb view. The most celebrated of 
the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. ia area, 
and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautifully azure 
sea-water, and lighted and entered only by a low and 
narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff 
(boat, 3 1. for 3 persons ; 1 1. for each additional). 
The White, Bed, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are 
also visited by boat'. 

Ischia is a fertile island 15. M. around, with 
25,000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, 
with delightful summer climate, castle of Alfonso I. 
of Aragon, lovely village of Casamicciola (damaged 
in 1883 by earthquake), and grand view from 
top of quiescent volcano of Epomeo. Ischia has 
been ravaged by Romans, Saracens, Pisans, Nea- 
politans, and French; and was the home of Vit- 
toria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from 
JSTaples in two hrs. (fares, 5 1., 3i 1.). Procida 



SALERNO. - P^STUM. - AMALFI. 383 

is a neigliboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with 
14,000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri and 
Ischia, by Greeks. 

Salerno {Hotel d'AngJeterre) is a picturesque 
old provincial capital (23,000 inhab.), 33^ M. from 
Naples (rly. fares, 6 1. 15 c, 4i 1., 2 1. 45c.), fronting 
on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, 1^} M. long, 
irregular mediieval streets, ancient Lombard Castle, 
and delightfully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with 
many antique cohimns, sarcophagi, and mosaics,,' 
and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory tlie Great, 
Margaret of Anjou, etc. I'he University was very 
celebrated in Middle Ages (see Longfellow's Goldeih 
Legend). 

Paestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by i-ailway over 
dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B.C. 600, and 
destroyed by Saracens, is a collection of the finest 
Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including 
Temple of Neptune, 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted 
Doric columns; Temple of Cere><, 105 by 45 ft., 
with 34 fluted columns; and Basilica, 177 by 80 ft., 
with 60 columns; well-preserved travertine town- 
walls 3 M. around; amphitheatre, Iloman temple.. 
Street of Greek tombs. Admission to temples, 1 1., 
Sun. free. 

Ama.\h{- {Luna), a lovely village (7,000 inhab.),. 
where a great mt. -gorge opens on Gulf of Salerno, 
was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling 
Genoa and Pisa, but yielded to the armies of Naples 
In 113L Near the Marina quay is the 11th-century 
Oathedral, with eainpanile and cloisters, rich mosaics 
I «ind Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. 
I A landslide in December, 1899, destroyed the ancient 
Capucin monastery and two hotels. 1^ hour's 
climb leads to Ravello (once 30,000 inhab., now 
1,500), with magnificent 11th-century cathedral and 
Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the 



384 SICILY. — MESSINA. 

Wise lived), botli in rich Saracenic architecture, and 
other notable chs. Amalfl may be reached from Sorrento, 
by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there 
from Salerno (l|-2 hrs. ; 1 -horse carriage, 5-6 1.] 
oyer one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6 
villages, amid vineyards and orange and lemon groves, 
by Charles V.'s anti-Saracenic watch-towers. 

Major! {Beau Site Hotel), near Amalfi, is a charm- 
ing spot. 

^ Sicily. 

I^liis beautiful island may be convenient!}'- visited 
from Naples, whence steamships run, several times 
weekly, to Palermo and Messina (15-22 hrs.; fares, 
40 1. 60 c, 24 1. 60 c, to either port), passing Capri, 
-Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. Travellers can avoid 
isca-trip by uncomfortable 26 lirs. (436 M.) rly. ride 
from Naples through Salerno; Eboli; Cosenm (Alaric's 
rgrave), with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo ; lofty Monteleone, 
with 10,000 inhab.; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. are 
seen ; Palmi; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons were 
killed by earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer's 
ricylla); to Reggio, a very beautiful city of 16,000 
inhab. Ferry hence to Messina in | hr. (^ 1.). 
: French steamers run from Marseilles to Palermo in 
50 hrs. Italian boats from Genoa to Palermo in 33 
hrs. Steamers run around Sicily weekly, from Paler- 
mo, touching at chief ports. 

Messina {Hotel Contiiiental; Vittoria; Veiiezia; 
Trinacria, English spoken),the chief commercial town 
of Sicily (126,000 inhab.), has a magnificent situation 
on an amphitheatrical slopp, over a secure and well-for- 
tified harbor. It was founded by the Greeks, b. c. 732; 
conquered by Samos, Athens (b. c. 427), Carthage 



SICILY. — CATANIA. 385 

(396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Saracens, Normans, 
English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, French, and Ital- 
ians ; and often ravaged by fire, plague, and earthquake. 
These evil days have left it but few antiquities. The 
Norman Cathedral (1098) lias 26 antique columns, 
mosaics, royal tombs, and sarcophagi ; and in front is 
splendid Montorsoli Fountain (16i7-51). See Nor- 
%\\\\\ S. Maria dei Catalani, on site of Temple of Nep- 
tune and Moslem mosque; Uninersitij, with library 
nnd picture-gallery (open 9-4 ; J 1.) ; S. Stefano, with 
tombs of Frenchmen killed at Sicilian Vespers ; hand- 
some and well-kept business streets; and ancient for- 
tress:^s (1540) on heights, with beautiful views. 

From Messina a brief trip may be made to Athens, 
French steamers weekly in 48 hrs. 

Illy, hence in 3 hrs. (60 M. ; fares, lOf I, 7 u 
55 c, 5 1. 40 c.) ; by Taormma {Giardini stat.), with 
gr md ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view), 
aoi-o polls and castle, and ducal palace; across lava 
fi'^l.ls of iEtna; and bjr ^a-iS^^z/e, scene of adventures 
of Polyphemus, and Acis and Galatea; to 

Catania {Bretagne; Albergo Centrale; Sangiorfjt; 
DiiiTloht), handsomest and most cultured city in Sicily 
(147.OU0 inhab., by the seaside, at foot of JEtna, and 
rich in palaces and villas, embowered in groves of 
orMuge. It was founded by Greeks, b. c. 730 ; and 
<"onquer(d by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths, 
Byzantines, Saracens, Germans, and Spaniards. See 
Cathedral (1091), with tombs of 6 Aragonese sover- 
eigns, and of St. Agatha ; S. Carcere, with relics ; 
cloistei's and gardens, museum, library of suppressed 
Benedictine Monastery of S. Nicola, than which there 
-was but one more splendid in the world (all its monks 
were of noble blood) ; underground remains of Grtvco- 
Brnian Theatre and Odeum (fee, 2 1.); Iloman Baths 
25 



3Sa MOUNT ^TNA.— SYRACUSE. 

and AmphilJieatre ; Roman Tombs ; University (1444), 
500 students ; and public gardens of Villa Bellim, 
with Italian statues. 

Mount -SStna (10,835 ft. high) may be ascended 
hence, by carriage (2| Ins.), to Nirolon (20-25 1. 
there and back) ; vrbence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa 
Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1. ; mule, 10 1.) ; return 
from top to Catania, 8-9 hrs. It is best to sleep at 
Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reach 
suiTimit before 'sunrise. There have been over 80 re- 
corded eruptions, one of which (1693) destroyed 80,000 
lives. In 1886 tlie last occurred. The view includes 
nil Sicily and surrounding seas, Calabria, Lipari 
Isles, and Malta. RIy. fioni Catauia (54 M. ; 9 1. 85 c, 
G 1. 9U c, 4 1. 9.-)C.) !o 

Syracuse {Agrddlna; YUld Politi; Grand), owcq the 
ino^i important city in the Greek world, now a quiet 
I modern ])ort (31,00() inhab,), with very charming envi- 
rons, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and 
beautiful women who wear picturesque costumes. ]t 
was founded by Corinthians, B.C. 734 ; defeated the 
Carthaginians and Etruscans ; I'cpulsod the besieging 
Athenian fleet and army (b.c. 414-13), with terrible 
losses; beat off frequent al tacks from Carthage; 
entertained ^schylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc. ; and was 
defended by Archimedes against the Romans (b.c. 
^14-12), but fell and was nearly annihilated. Paul and 
Vlarciau preached here. It has since been ravaged by 
Franks, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards ; and has 
never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878. 
The inhabitants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- 
dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with remarkable 
font and leaning pillars ; Museum (open 9-1, 3-5)^ 
with fine Greek Venus, and other antiquities ; Foun- 
tain of Arethusa, famed in Greek mythology, and stiD 



PALERMO. 387 

surrounded uj papyrus plants ; ruins of Temple of Diana; 
Castle ; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by, 
see scanty remains of ancient Syracuse : Amphitheatre ; 
Latomioe, or quarries once worked by slaves ; grotto 
c?i\\iidi Ear of Dloni/sitis ; Greek Theatre (480-406 B.C.) ; 
Fountain of Gijane, amid growing papyri; fragments 
of Temple of Zeus Olj/mpiiis ; etc. 

Weekly steamers hence to Malta in 8 lirs. 

Palermo {Hotel cle France ; Trinacria ; Des Palmes; 
Centrale),i\\Q ca])ital of Sicily (315,000 inhab.), is very 
beautifully situated between Mt. Pelle^rino and Cape 
Zaffarana, facing the sea, and has mild winters and. 
hitensely hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, 
strengthened from Greece, fortified by Carthage, cap- 
tured by Rome, and governed iu succession hy the 
Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and 
English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora prome- 
iiades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The 
Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and nnposing ch., 
with lonibs of the Sicilian kings, and of Emperor Fred- 
erick II. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing 
remains of St. Rosalia; many statues and carved choir 
stalls; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. 
La Martorana c!j. (12th century) has curious old Greek 
mosaics, Goiinthian cokimus, and a tall campanile. See 
also S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch. ; S. 
Qiobanni degli Fremiti, Li form of letter T, with 5 
domes, and cloisters ; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits^ 
ch, ; l:^ovm?i)i S. Francesco rVAssisi; said S. Don/enico 
(1640), whiuli can hold 12,000 persons The Museum 
(open 10-3 ; 11.) contains many Sicilian-Greek statues 
and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture-. 
gallery, mainly composed of paintings by old Sicilian 
masters. The Royal Palace is Saracenic, with notable 
apartments added by King Rojsei-, Robert Guiscard, 



388 PALERMO. — MONREALE. 

Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is 
magnificent Cappella Fcdatina (1132), tlie finest castle- 
chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite 
columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many 
Arabian inscriptions. Superb view i'roni Observatury. 
The great cloisters of the SjJedale Grande (13b0) are 
covered with- frescos. Note Gothic windows of Archi- 
epi'icopal Palace ; large Municipal Palace ; University ; 
National Library (open 9-2) ; spacious and arcaded 
Paterno Palace ; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long 
the home of the Inquisition; Ganzia Monastery ; rich 
Botanical Garden,' and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch 
for Charles T.'s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis. 

Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond Palace of Dae d'Au- 
male, elegant old Saracenic palace of Cubola, Capuchin 
Monastery where Palermitan patricians are kept em- 
balmed, and rich gardens oi Villa Ta^ra, is a laigetuwn 
which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by 
William II. in 1170. It is 333 X 132 ft. in area, wii'h 
superb entrance ; bronze doors (1186) ; Saracenic 
arches; cloisters supported on 21G columns; and over 
60,000 square ft. of magnificent mosaics, scriptural 
and historical. Monreale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and 
commands famous views. More than 1,200 ft. above is 
venerable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with 
library, museum, and views. Tiie celebrated Monte 
Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. Set shrine and 
grotto of St. Rosalia, and immense sea- view. La 
Favorita is a s})lendid royal villa, beyond the so-called 
English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu, 
a large suppressed monastery, wilh favorite view of 
Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and chateaux ol 
modern Sicilian nobles abound in I he environs. 

From Palermo it is 96 M. by rly. (164 U 1^ i- ^^ ^^ 
Tl. 65 c.) 



GIRGENTI. - CIVITA VECCHIA. 389 

Girgenti {Hotel Belvedere; Des Temples), chief 
town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab.). On mt. 
near by are ruins of Acragas {Agrigentum), which 
Pindar called " the most beautiful city of mortals." 
It was founded by Cretans; had 200,000 inhab., 
and vast wealth; was destroyed by Carthage, and 
ber-ame a Roman colony. Here are fairly preserved 
ruins of Temples of Juno (with 34 columns), 
Hercules (38 columns), Co7icord (34 columns), 
Zeus (37 huge columns), and others; and walls, 
gates, cloacaB, catacombs, tombs, etc., in great 
numbers. 



Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, flonaco. 

Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best 
return N. by sea. The Fraissinet steamships leave 
Naples twice weekly for Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, 
Genoa and Marseilles. 

Civita Vecchia ^(rrryVrno; If alia) is a fortified 
port of 12,000 inhab,, founded by Trajan, and des- 
troyed by Saracens (in 828». Portress built after 
plans by Michael Ang^lo. Rly. across Maremma to 
Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 50^ M., in 2 hrs. (fares, 
9 1. 20 c, 6 1. 40 c, 4 1. 60 c). Time of voyage from 
Naples, 12-14 hrs. 

A voyage of 13 hrs., by Hlha, leads hence to Leg- 
horn {Hotel d^ Angleterre Campari; Grand; Giap- 
jjone; Bastia; Falcone e Patria), one of the chief 
Mediterranean ports (over 100,000 inhab.), fortified, 
well-built and modern. It was founded by the Medici 
family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See English 
Cemetery, with Smollett's tomb; fine statues of three 
Tuscan Grand-Dukes; venerated sailors' ch. on Ilonfe 
Nero; piers and quays, with busy and chattering 
crowds, and handsome squares and Corso. 

Rly. to Pisa, 12 M. (2 1. 5 c, 11. 40 c , 1 1). 



390 PiSA. 

Pisa {Hotel Royal Vittoria; Grand Hotel Min- 
erve et Ville ; Qraiid Hotel; Hotel Washington) 
Is a quiet and beautiful town (50,000 inhab.) near the 
mouth of tlie Arno, and 50 M. from Florence (fares, 
81.80 c., 61.20c.)- It was conquered by Kome, 
B.C. 180 ; adorned with temples by Augustus and Ha- 
drian; became a rival of Venice and Genoa in Middle 
Ages; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles; 
became anti-Papal, and was defeated by Genoa ; and 
since 1406 has been subject to Florence. It is very 
hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts 
many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old 
town. It is suiTOunded by picturesque walls ; and has 
3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near 
which you may see, on N. side, many palaces and chs., 
including 1 3th-century /S'. Ji"/(?^(?/^ ; Universiti/ {\Wi), 
with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) and valuable 
library ; Alia Giornata, Vitelli and Royal Palaces ; S. 
Niecolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Fer- 
dinand I. in front ; and Gnelphic fortress, near Potite 
» Mare. On S, shore, 12th-century S. Paolo, with 
handsome old fapade ; Benedictine monastery ; Oam- 
bacorfi Falace, now custom-house; S. Maria della 
Spina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with 
fragment of Crown of Thorns ; round S. Sepolcro; and 
the Fortress. Back from the river, on N., see S. Fran- 
cesco (1300), with campanile ; Botanical Garden and 
Natural-History Museum ; S. Sisto (1089) ; and Piazza 
del Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. Here stand 
Palazzo de' Cavalieri, with statues, and S. Stefano 
(1565), ch. of Knights of St, Stephen, with Turkish 
trophies and notable paintings The adjacent Acad- 
emy of Fine Arts (open 9-2) was founded by JNapo- 
leon 1., and contains many good Pisan and Florentine 
paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Palazzo 



PISA. 39 i 

ZanfrancM. S. Caterina (1253) has interesting pictures, 
and stands in a pleasant square, near the old Ilomau 
baths and the Lucca Gate. 

In the remote N. VY. corner of Pisa is a wonderful 
group of mediseval buildings, nearly surrounded bj 
gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 811 X 106 ft. 
in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in 
1063, to connnemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo, 
^nd consecrated by Pope Gtlasius II. in 1118, It is- 
in magnificent Tuscan-Gothic architecture, of white and 
■colored marbles, M'ith remarkable fagade of columns and. 
arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Cimabue's 
mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of 
Pisan conquests), a splendidly gilded ceiling, bronze 
doors designed by John of Bologna, 12 altars designed 
by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccolo Pisano, 
altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare 
pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo 
got the idea of the ])endii]um. 

In front is the finest Baptistery in the world, it 
is round (iOO ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. high); in 
Roman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Gothic styles; of 
marble ; and surrounded with ancient columns. Inside, 
see six-sided pulpit on 7 columns, with 6 reliefs by 
Niccolo Pisano, and handsome font. 

The Leaning Tower (1171-1350), or Campanile^ 
behind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, sur- 
rounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bolls. It is 
14 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top, 
of thd Af)ennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica. 

Tiie Campo Santo ( open daily; 25c.) is an enclos- 
ure filled with scores of shiploads of sacred earth from 
Mt. Calvary, and consecrated to the burial of great 
men. The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built 
1278-83, by John of Pisa, and is 424 ft. long and 145 



392 LUCCA. - CxVRRARA. 

ft. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on 
the verdant court within. The walls are decorated 
with wonderful and curious 14th-century frescos 
of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, 
some of which are attributed to Giotto and Orcagna. 
There are many splendid monuments in these cor- 
ridors, to Emperor Henry VII., Gregory XIII., 
Catalani, etc.; and sculptures by Mino da Fiesole, 
John of Pisa, Luca della Robbia, Dupre, and Thor- 
waldsen. 

Excursions from Pisa. — To summer resort of 
Baths of Oomho, near which Shelley was drowned. 
To La Certosa, a Carthusian monastery, 6 M. out, 
on the Pisan Mts. To Basilica of S. Pietro in Qrado 
(A.D. 1000), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in 
Italy. Rly. in 13 M. to 

Lucca (Universo ; Corona; Croce di Malta), a 
beautiful old walled city (74,000 iiihab.), on a rich 
plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman 
municipium, it afterwai-ds beenrae Gothic, Lombard, 
Frankish, ducal, republican, Pisan and Tuscan ; and 
was home of Dante, and principality of Napoleon's 
sister. See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral 
(1060-70), very rich in art; 7th-century Basilica of 
S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare old 
pictures; chs. of S. Giovanni, S. Romano, S. 
Francesco, and S. Michele, and old palaces; and 
walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of 
Lucca {Hotel de V Europe; des Tliermes; NewYork; 
Pavilio7i; Queen Victoria), 12 M. N., among the 
Apennines, are a collection of 19 sulphuretted 
ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health 
resort for centuries. 

Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102i M. (fares, 18 1. 15 c, 
13 1. 60 c, 10 1.). Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa,. 
9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea, 
passing Carrara, a beautiful town of 23,000 inhab. 



SPEZIA . — GENOA. 3 9 ^ 

(mostly sculptors and marble- workers), embowered m 
groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, aud 
2 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men rire 
employed. La Spezia {Gran Bretagna; Groce di Mal- 
ta; Italia) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly 
fortified and well equipped (66,000 inhab,), ami was 
^30 mi n ended by Strabo as one of the vastest and best 
]v.)i-ts in the world. Many visitors come iivsummer for" 
the sea- baths ; and iii winter, for the mild climate. 
Pleasant trip to Porto Venere {\\ hr.). The rly. goes 
on, by Sestri Lenanie and Lacagna, along shore of 
Mediterranean, with charming views, and througli 
many tunnels. 

Genoa {Hotel J.^afta; Be Ge/iea; De la Ville ; 
De Londres: 3Ieir('-<(>l,e; De France; Central; 
Des JEtrangers ;' Eden Palace) ^ called by its 
citizens La Sup^rba, has '311,000 inhab., and is Italy'^ 
chief commercial town. Tt was founded by Ligiii"iansv 
became Roman; enriched itself in Crusades ; conquered 
great Levantine domains ; fought many wars with 
Venice, Pisa, and tlie Moslems ; was torn for centuries^ 
by Guelph-Ghibelline civil wars ; maintained itself aa^ 
a republic from 10th century to 19th; was annexed to- 
Prance in 1800 ; and in 1815 became Sardinian. It 
has more imposing marble palaces than any other city •, 
but the streets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It-. 
presents a vast hemicycle of buildings, ranged along-, 
the hills like seats in an amphitheatre, with bold 
wooded heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend 
the city ; and an outer line, 20 M. long, witb towers 
and intrenchments, traverses the hills beyond The-- 
Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses ;. 
and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall,, 
by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At en^ 
near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft- 



394 GEN0.4. 

Jong and 45 ft. wide, affordiiii? pleasant view of ImrDor. 
Near by is liaudsome 16tli-ceuturj Exchange, with 
«tatue of Cavour. The Custom House contains many 
statues of Genoese worthies in its main hall. Splendid 
view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of S. Maria 
di Carignano, on high hill to S. E. 

The Cathedral (1100) is of allernate bands of 
black and wliite marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns, 
sumptnous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and 
the Holy Grail. Near by, on Piazza Nuova, see white- 
marble town-hall, wdth statues (once Ducal Palace) ; 
and 16th-century Jesuits' ch. of S. Ambrogio, w-ith pic- 
tures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are B. Mcitteo 
(1278), with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria 
family ; Academy of Fine Arts, with pictures and statu- 
^iry; 12th-century Gothic ch. ol S. Stefauo, with famous 
picture by Giulio Romano ; and Pallavicini and Spinola 
Palaces. The modern Via Balbi and Via Nuova are [ 
streets of superb palaces, nuuiy of which have beautiful 
<?ourtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th-cen. 
tury 'Municipio, with mosaic portraits of Columbus and 
Marco Polo (and letters of former) in council hall; 
Brignole-Sale, with 8 rooms full of old paintings (fee, 
1 1.) ; Adorno (1500), with valuable j)ictures. Most of 
the Genoese palaces ^vere built by (or in manner of) 
Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform 
€apuchin ch. oiSS. Anmmziata (1587), with fluted red- 
marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence 
the Via Balln, a broad modern street of palaces, leads 
to rly. stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Durazzo ; 
University (1622), with museums, library (60,000 vols.), 
and the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa; Pa- 
lazzo Balbi, with lai-ge picture-gallery (fee, 1 1.) ; 
Palazzo Durazzo and Royal Palace (open daily), with 
Tidily furnished halls, throne-room, and many pictures. 



SAVOXA. — SAN REMO. Z05- 

fn square by rly. stat., see fine moimiuent to CohunbiiS' 
(1862), with several allegorical statues aud reliefs. 
Beyond is Palace of Doria Princes, presented to An- 
drea Doria, "The father of his Country," in 1522,. 
with splendidly frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and 
statues. 

Excursions from Genoa. — Villa Fallavioini (get 
permission at Durazzo Palace ; open 2—3 p.m. ; fee,. 
1-2 I.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent 
views, grottos, kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pec/li stat., 
7^ M. ; I hr. by rly. ; fares, 1 1. 15 c, 80 c). 'Campo 
Santo, 1| M. out, new and interesting. 

The famousCornieheroad leads aioii.2: \\\QPdviera 
di Ponetite from Genoa to Nice (128 1 M.), through 
some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world. 
Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly 
every day. 

Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs. (116 M. ; fares, 
211. 5 c., 141. 90 c., 101. 65 c.), by slow and not very 
comfortable trains. The journey should be by day, as- 
the route follows the Mediterranean" coast tl'irougli a 
succession of beautiful and historic towns and villages. 
Take seat on r, as far as Savona; beyond wliicii the 
best views are on the 1. The line traverses many tun- 
nels, through rocky prom(jni',ories. 

Savona {Pension t>uisse ; Italia; Rovm) is an 
ancient city (40,000 inhab.), whose fine harbor Geno? 
caused to be tilled up, after conquering tl'.e tovv-n. 
Sixtus IV. and Julius II. were born here, See Caihe 
dral (1604) ; S. Domenico, with triptych by Durer : 
colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly. 
hence to Turin. 

San Remo {Royal ; West-Erid ; Edeti ; Paradis ; 
Savoy; d' Europe; Bellevue; de la Mediterranee: Vic- 
toria; Central; de Londres; Qidsisano), is a lown of 



396 BORDIGHERA. 

20,000 inhab., on hill-slopes covered with vineyards 
and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pommegranate 
and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and at- 
tracts many English, American, German and Russian 
families in winter. The town is a densely populated 
group of fortress-like mediceval houses, with pictur- 
esque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See 
very ancient Cathedral; lovely view from Assumj)- 
tion ch.; ruined Borea Palace ; and hermitage of 
>S'. Romolo. 

Bordighera {Ilotel cCAngleterre; Royal; Angst; 
Windsor) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm- 
trees, projecting into the sea, with picturesque streets 
and houses. It was once the capital of a republic. 
Ruffini laid the scene of his Dr. Antonio hereabouts. 
Climate is exceptionally soft in winter, with bracing 
quality, and is delightful in sfiring and fall. Many 
Americans come here. See Villa of Garnier, archi- 
tect of Paris Opera-Hoase ; and palm-garden of 
Moreno. Vintimiglia (de V Europe; Suisse) is the 
; frontier-town, where baggage is examined and travel- 
lers change cars. Be sure thai your baggage is put 
back on train. 



MENTONE. - MONACO. 397 

SOUTHERN FRANCE, 
rientone, Nice, Cannes, MarselHes. 

TWTEiN'TOiN'E {Royal and Westminster; Victoria; 
^•^ National; Du Pare; Winter Palace; Venise; 
Isles Britanniques ; des Amhassadeurs ; du Louvre; 
des Anglais ; Riviera Palace ; Grande Bretagne; 
Alexandra; Hotel Beaurivage). The old town keeps 
its feudal aspect, with narrow and whiding streets, 
on a promontory dividing the bay. 1 he new town is 
•on a long street, parallel with the hill. See grand 
view from ruins of Castle (1402) ; 8t. Julian Gate / 
Palazzo/ and Public Garden. Climate more equable 
than at Nice or Cannes, and very tonic ; and availed 
of bv very many people with lung or bronchial 
troubles. Beautiful excursions in vicinity. Cor- 
niche road hence to Nice (18| M. ; 3-4 hrs.) through 
most exquisite coast scenery. 

Near Monte Carlo stat. is famous Casino of Mo- 
naco (Hotel de Paris, with good restaurant ; Metro- 
pole ; J)e Russie), with magnificent palace for con- 
certs, decorated theatre, very elaborate gardens, and 
-Gaming Establishment. Great numbers of fashiona- 
Tjles here, from December to May. 

Monaco (Beau Sejour; de la Condamine; Nice), 
the capital of a Lilliputian principality, under 
Trench protection, stands on a bold rock nearly sur- 
rounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes 
-(open daily; small fee) has sumptuous rooms and good 
frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and 
new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter cli- 
mate, and sea bathing in summer. Between Monaco 



#98 i^^CE. — CANNES. 

aud Nice is Viliafranca, winter he;id(iu;irters of 
American navy in European waters. 

Nice {Hotel deJS ice; des J'riuces: Grajide Bretagne^ 
Des Anglais; Cosmopolitan ; Be la Mediterranee , 
Be France; Grand ; Paradis] a liaiulsoine and well- 
built city (90,000 inliab.), with an Italian aspect, is tliei 
duel of tlie iasliiouable winter-resorts on the Medi^er- 
ranean coast, and has an extremely soft and ag-reeable 
climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany,, 
Russia and America, send many invalids iiere. The 
brilliant winters are succeeded by very didl summers. 
It was originally a Gi-eek colony; then Proven^al^ 
Savoyard, Sardinian, aud French. Massena was bora 
in house No. 21 Quai St. Jean Baptiste; Garibaldi^ 
at No. 4 Hue Cassini. Paganini died at No. 14 Rue 
de la Piefecture ; lialevy, at No. 5 Rue de France. 
The world-renowned Fromenade des Anglais extends 
along the bay for 1| M., bordered by beautiful villas 
and public establishments. See Place Massena, with 
bronze statue of Massena ; Jar din Publique, with palm 
groves and good band-music ; Place des Phociens, and 
antique Greek fountain ; remains of Castle, on hiU of 
palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over 
sea and mts. ; old and new Hotels de Voille ; Palace of 
Prefecture ; ?i.\\Qie\\i Lascaris Palace ; NatMral-History 
Museum ; Public Library ; and Marble Cross. Many 
charming excursions to Viliafranca, Montboron, Chi- 
team Neuf, St. Pons, Cimies, etc. (consult hotel-porters, 
most of whom speak EngHsii). It is 6 hrs. hence, 
by express (2G fr. 70 c, 20fr. 75 c., 15fr. 20c.), to 
Marseilles. 

Cannes {Hotel Splendlde, in the town ; Gallia, 
Beau Sejour, in E. quarter; des Princes, du Pare, in 
W. quarter; Co7itinenfal, on the hills; -de Cannes, 
Gray and Albion, in S. quarter; Grande-Bre- 



TOULON.-MARSEILLES. ^99 

, at Le Cannet) is one of the most popular 
aiid attractive Mediterranean winter resorts, sheltered 
from the winds, and frequented by people whose lungs 
are delicate. The English and Russians monopolize it, 
and the latter have many handsome villas in vicinity. 
Magnificent sea views, including the lies de Levins, 
where, on lie S. Marguerite, the Man with the Iron 
Mask was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine 
escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat, ruins of one of 
the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes^^ 
IS Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, sur- 
rounded by walls and defended by a fort ; and Cfolf& 
Jouan^ where Napoleon landed from Elba. 

The Marseilles rly. goes on to Fr6jus, with ruins of 
Roman theatre, amphitheatre, Gilded Gate, and aque- 
duct (25 M. long). From La Pauline stat. branch 
rly. to Hy^res, a favorite health resort in winter, 
with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts. 
behind. Toulon {Grand Hotel; Victoria; De lor 
Paix; Du Nord) is the chief French naval station. 
(77,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep 
double harbor, sheltered by Cape Sepet and defended 
by 11 forts. It beat off an Austrian and Italian army 
in 1707 ; but Bonaparte wrested it from an English, 
garrison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues;: 
Maritime Museum ; Puget's statue of Renown ; prison, 
founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot of prisoners; 
sentenced to transportation; Hotel de Ville, with 
sculptures, and in front a statue of Genius of Navi- 
gation; ancient Cathedral, with sculptures by 
Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from 
Batterie du Salut. It is 41-|- M. hence to 

Marseilles {Hotel de Noailles; des Negociants; du 
Louvre et de la Paix; Termuius), the foremost mari- 
time city (503,000 inhab.) of France, which has a long^ 
and narrow inner harbor, with large modern docks out- 



400 MARSEILLES. — CHATEAU D'IF. 

side. It was founded by Greeks or Phoenicians, b.c. 600, 
under the name of Massilia ; defeated the Carthagin, 
ians ; established many colonies along the coast ; was 
conquered by Csesar, Visigoths, Franks, Saracens, and 
Spaniards ; and in 1481 was annexed to France. Here 
Were born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Mery. The 
Marseillaise call their La Cannebiere the finest street 
in the world. This line of streets runs N. W. from the 
ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues 
of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators ; 
the Place Royale ; across the shady Cours de VAthenee 
(statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to 
Triumphal Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon's victories, 
a,nd to rly. stat. ; across Cours Si. Louis, which runs 
tinder various names 2| M. to the N. E. ; and out to 
Zoological Garden, near which is the handsome Long- 
•champs Museum (open, 10-4), where an Ionic colon- 
iiiade joins the Natural-History Museum to the Picture- 
Gallery. 

See immense Docks ; Canal, which cost $12,000,000 ; 
Ch. of Noire Dame de la Garde, on steep and far-view- 
ing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral; old Ca- 
thedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana ; palatial Hotel 
.de la Prefecture; and Palais de Justice. 

In suburbs, visit noble Corniche road. The 
Chateau d'lf, built by Francis I. on an island in the 
harbor, was made famous by Dumas's Monte Cristo. 

Steamships of Messageries Maritimes, Valery Frferes, 
i'raissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their 
chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, Constantinople ; 
to Syra, Smyrna, Constantinople, Odessa,— returning by 
Athens & Naples; to Salonica ; to Naples & Alexandria; 
to Port Said, Jaffo, Beyrout, and Syrian coast ; to Trebi- 
zond ; to Madras and Calcutta ; to Suez, Aden, Singapore, 
Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Yokohama (fortnightly) ; to Al- 



ARLES. — NIMES. 401 

giers ; to Barcelona ; to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civiti 
VeccMa, and Naples ; and occasionally to New York. 

From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by way 
of Barcelona (see page 405). 

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, and Lyons. 

Rly. from Marseilles to Paris in 16-18 hrs. (fares, 106 fr. 
35 c, 79 f-. 80 c). Train leaving at 8.30 a.m. is due at 
Paris at 11.19 p.m. 

The route leads through vineyards and olive-groves, 
araDug which, are ancient villages, to Aries {Grand 
HUel du, Forum ; Du Nord), a venerable Roman town. 
(36,000 inliab.)- near the Gamargue, or delta of the 
llhoiie. The Roman Amphitheatre (b.c. 43) is 1,500 ft. 
around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine arcades, 
and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the 
Goths, Saracens, and Eranks, some of whose towers are 
still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are 
very interesting. See also famous Roman cemetery 
of Ghamps Blysees (mentioned by Dante) ; columns in 
Place du Forum; ruins of Thermae, and of Constan- 
iirie's Palace; Roman Obelisk of Alpine granite, set 
up hare in 1676; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of 
Roman statues and antiquities ; 7th-century Gathedraly 
with fine portal and interesting cloisters; viaduct with 
32 arches; and (2^ M. N. E.) imposing ruins of for- 
tress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The 
women of Aries are celebrated for beauty. 

Fares, Marseilles to Aries, 10 fr. 60 c., 7fr. 90 c., 
5 fr. 80 c. From Aries, ma Tarascon, to Nimes, 4 fr. 
85 c., 3fr. 60 c., 2fr. 60 c. 

l^mes {Hotel du Luxembourg ; Du Midi) the birth- 
place of Guizot and Nicot (whence nicotine), has 
80,000 inhab. It was oace a sacred spot in a DruidicaJ 



402 TARASCON. — AVIGNON. 

forest ; conquered by Rome, B;C. 121 ; and at time o! 
Reformation, scene of fierce religious wars. No other 
French town has such noble Roman remains. The 
well-preserved Amphitheatre (b.c. 140) has 35 rows of 
seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. aroun<i and 74 ft. 
high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Sara- 
cens ; and afterwards contained a large village. The 
Maison Carree is a Roman temple, 88 X 42 ft. in area, 
with 30 exquisite Corinthian columns. Founded prob- 
ably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a ch., and 
then a town-hall ; and is now a Museum, with antique 
mosaics and sculptures, and several score of modern 
paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Va., was mod» 
elled on plan of Maison Carree. See also ancient Teni' 
pie of Diana (or Nymphamii), and Roman Baths, below 
the huge and far-viewing Toiirmagfie, on Mount Cava- 
lier, adorned with promenades ; 2 of rhe Roman town- 
gates ; Fountain ; and Boulevards. 

Tarascon {Hotel des Empereurs ; Du Petit Louvre\ 
the city of the troubadours, and of King Rene of 
Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has notable Castle, Ch. of S. 
Marthe, Chapel of St. Gabriel, and Rue des Arcades. 

Avignon {Hotel de VFjurope) is a handsome city 
(38,000 inhab.) on the Rhone, with an imposing and 
well-preserved wall (1349-68) of huge masonry, and 
many gates. On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high, 
stands the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2 
popes ; La Glaciere, an ancient square prison-tower of 
the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the 
Papal Palace (now a barrack), a huge and fortress-like 
pile, 100 ft; high, with frowning towers and a chapel 
frescoed by Memmi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint, 
etc. Splendid view of Rhone and city from adjacent 
public gardens. The golden age of Avignon was dur- 
ing 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the 



V AUCLUSE. - VIENNE. 403 

Pontifical court. ^ In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the 
Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot 
of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place, with hand- 
some Theatre and Hotel de Ville. See also Calvet 
Museum (1 fr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and 

Sicture-gallery ; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain ; 
fonument to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century Hotel 
Crillon; and Ch. of Grands Carmes. 

Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to Vlle-sur- 
Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain 
of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of 
Avignon, is one of the grandest Roman works in 
existence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches, 
over the desolate Gard Valley, built probably by 
Agrippa. 

Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange 
{Hotel de la Poste et des Princes), a Roman colony, 
and afterwards capital of principality (until 1702), 
with large Roman Theatre (20,000 sittings) and 
Triumphal Arch. Near Pierrelatte are many Roman 
remains. Montelimart has famous mineral springs. 
Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots 
against Henri III. in 1574. Valence {Hotel de la 
Croix) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with 
Roman ruins; Cathedral with tomb of Pius VI.; 
Museum; and Maison des Tetes. Vienne {Hotel du 
Nord; De la Poste), "a little French Manchester" 
(25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of 
Augustus, with 16 Corinthian columns ; 6th-century 
basilica of S. Pierre; venerable Cathedral, etc. 

L,yons{Grand Hotel de Lyon; des Beaux- Arts; De 
Bellecour ; Angleterre; Etrangers), the second city 
and chief . manufacturing place of France (400,000 
inh.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and 
is of vast importance, commercially and strategically. 
The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed 



404 LYONS. 

from tlie 3 rivers ; and containing handsome rly. stat.. 
Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St. 
Blandine. See ISth-century Cathedral, with fapade by 
Philibert Delorme, and noble tower; Museum (open 
9-3), with Roman antiquities and statues, Kbrary, and 
large picture-gallery (see Perugino's Ascension) ; Grande 
Theatre ; noble view from piljErrimaffe-ch. oi Notre Dame 
d^ Fourmere, on heights ; Hotel de Ville (1647), neat 
scene of massacres of 1794 ; Civic Library, 180,000 
vols. ; Palace of Commerce, with industrial museum ; 
Hotel Bieu; great tobacco-factories; new Bellecour 
Theatre ; 10th-century ch. of Abbey of Ainay, on site 
of Caligula's school of rhetoric; handsome Tete d'Or 
park; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century; and Place 
Bellecour. There are 16 bridges over the rivers ; and 
the adjacent heights are covered with great forts. 

Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4| his. (fares, 20 fr. 
65 c, 15| fr., 11 fr. 35 c.) ; and to Besan9on (fares, 
29 fr. 20 c, 21 fr. 85 c, 16 fr. 5 c). Besan9on {Hotel 
de Paris) is one of the strongest fortresses in Prance 
(48,000 inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal 
Palace, Granvelle Palace (L '>34), Roman Arch, and 
Library (120,000 vols.). 

Express trains, Lyons to Paris. 9-10 hrs., by Macon, 
Chalons-sur-Saone, Dijon, etc. 

Montpellier, Cette, and Perpignan, see pages 405-6. 

Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 433. 

Pau, Cauterets, Bordeaux, Arcachon, AngoulemBi Poi* 
tiers, Toulouse, Vichy, etc., see pages 436 et seq. 



SPAIN. 405 



A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN. 

THE tourist who can give ten days for a visit to 
the most important points in Spain will never have 
occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most 
interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe. 
Erom Marseilles we recommend you to go directly ta 
Barcelona, from there to Valencia, and thence via La 
Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. Erom this point 
you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to 
Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail : 
then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar ; from Gib- 
raltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to 
the Alcazar de San Juan : from thence to Madrid, taking 
on the way the ancient city of Toledo ; and from Madrid 
N. to Erance by Avila, Valladolid, Burgos, and Irun : 
thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include 
several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, 
Alicante, Salamanca, etc. ; but it gives a capital idea 
of the chief beauties of Spain. Even to those who feel 
that they cannot spend the time to go S. to Seville, 
Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend 
to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and 
N., being satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot 
see the whole. As for tlie journey to Portugal and 
especially to Lisbon we shall simply point out the route, 
as most vacation tourists will find it too lengthy. 

Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass through 
Montpellier {Hotel Neoet ; Da Midi; Delmas ; 
Orand:, Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by Ur- 
ban V. ; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked 
with a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and 



406 GERONA. — BARCELONA. 

La Peyronnic ; a library of 50,000 vols., a good mu- 
seum (open Sun., Mon., diiid fete days, 11-3) ; a public 
library, 60,000 vols. ; and many beautiful fountains, 
statues, gardens, and promenades : — Cette, one of the 
most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France, 
noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural 
history, and its botanical garden : — Narhonne, and 
Perpignan, an old Erench town with a Spanish aspect. 
The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerbere, in the midst 
of a wildly beautiful country ; baggage inspection not 
severe. The only point of special importance through 
which you pass on your way to Barcelona is 

Gerona {Fonda Italiana), a large town divided into 
two sections, upper and lower, by the river Oiia. Noble 
view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains. 
The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental 
staircase of 86 steps. The interior forms one single 
nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pillars, 
formed of little columns almost detached from each 
other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar 
is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishojfs Palace is 
very fine. Churches of San Pedro de los Galligans 
and San Feliu are worth seeing. The Capucin Con- 
vent contains a small Arabic monument of wonderful 
intricate workmanship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to 

Barcelona {Grand Hotel; Inglaterra; Falcon y 
Central; del Oriente; Continental; PeniJisular), one 
of the most enterprising as well as one of the most 
beautiful cities (500,000 inh.) in Southern Europe. Its 
appearance quite contradicts any impressions, that one 
may have of the slovenliness and lack of energy of the 
modern Spaniards, impressions, alas ! confirmed later 
on by the aspect of more southward towns, Barcelona 
is the residence of a CaptaiK General and of the civil 
governor of the province of Catalonia. The clima':e 5s 




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SPAIN. -107 

temperate both in. summer and winter. Tlie new part of 
the city, notably in the Gracia quarter, will remind 
Americans of the more beautiful sections of Boston and 
of Washington. The Bambla is the principal promenade 
of the city, and at noon and in the evening is thronged 
with all classes of the population. It runs from the Plaza 
de la Paz (Columbus Monument) to the Plaza de Cataluna, 
and from here stretches out the beautiful Gracia avenue, 
which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. The 
University with its 150,000 volumes is on the Plaza de la 
Universidad, a short distance N.W. from the Cataluna 
Plaza. Among other squares are the Real, with interest- 
ing shops ; the Medina Celi, with statue of Marquet ; del 
Bey, with the Provincial Museum and Palace of the 
Archives; de la Constitucion, with, the Casa Conslstorial 
and the Casa de la Diputacion ; de Palacio, with fine 
marble fountain. From the latter a short avenue leads to 
the Parque de la Ciudadelajn which are the Palace, the 
Pantheon, and an unimportant Museode Reproducciones. 
The Lyceo, said to be the largest theatre in the world, is 
built after the model of La Scala, at Milan. The Lonja, 
or Exchange, is of monumental aspect. The Casa dela 
Diputacion, on the Palace of the Constitution, was built 
in the 16th century ; fine portal. On the side fronting on 
the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fagade of the ciiapel 
of St. George, Gothic in style. The Hall of the Diputacion 
bas many fine paintings ; among others a number of the 
best works of Fortuny. Opposite is the Casa Consistorial, 
a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or courtyard, is 
much admired. The Custom House, Casa Aduana, 
is near the old royal palace. The Archives of the 
Crown of Aragon in the Plaza del Rey is a superb 
historical collep^ion dating back for ten centuries. 



408 BARCELONA. 

The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of th& 
Church. It is dedicated to S. Eulalia. The first 
building was erected by Raymond Ber^nguer I, 
in 1058, but only part of that remains. The 
interior has three vast naves, ogival in style. The 
chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- 
tured columns : at the top is a Christ upon the Cross. 
Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are 
said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia : beautiful 
stained glass windows here. The side door on the r. 
leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated 
in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork 
on the doors of the chapels : also the tomb of the dwarf 
buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There are 
numerous other chs. of interest. Among the most strik- 
ing is S. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic edifice. The 
Provincial Museum contahis some good paintings by 
Villodomat, some by the Caracci, and works of Ribera 
and other masters. The Museo Arqueologico, in the ch. of 
Santa Agneda, is interesting. The Museo Estruch 
contains an interesting col 1 ection of weapons. On an 
isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich, which 
can contain a garrison of about 10,000. Barcelonetta 
is a little suburb chiefly inhabited by fishermen and 
workmen in the marine establishments. Gracia is a 
favorite residence of the wealthier people of Barcelona. 
An excursion should be made to the immense rocky 
mass of Monserrat, which rises in the midst of the 
Catalonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above 
the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barce- 
lona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martorell, 
on the Tarragona line, or much more easily from Mo' 
nistrol, on the Saragossa rv. ,from which a carriage rd. 
and mt. ry. lead to the Monastery on summit of the 
mt. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is 
left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine 



SPAIN. 409^ 

styie, dating from the 15th century. The present mon 
astery is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high, 
without special character. The ch. is beautified with a 
portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown 
of the Virgin of Monserrat is too well known to need, 
mention here. From the top of the mt. there is a 
splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Ar- 
agon, the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean shore, and in! 
very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There 
are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Mon- 
serrat mass. 

The Balearic Islands, — There is regular com- 
munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital 
of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of 
the province which to-day bears the name of Bale- 
ares, and which comprises the islands of Majorca^. 
Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma is a pretty 
town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delight- 
ful country. There are a few fine buildings in it. 
See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1426, finished 
22 years later : the Citadel, built at the close of the 16tk 
century : the Palace of the Captain General : the Cathe- 
dral, founded 1230, finished 1601. Majorca pretends 
to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an 
ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of 
Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the 
name of King Martin, when that island belonged to the 
Crown of Aragon : — In the Island of Minorca, Port 
Mahon is the principal town, much frequented by navi- 
gators of all nations. The English were there for a^ 
long time, and quitted the island only in 1782. 

Prom Barcelona those who have time may find it- 
interesting to visit Saragossa. 



410 SARAGOSSA. 

Saragossa {Fonda de Europa ; Las Cuatro 
J}i(t Clones) ; existed in the time of the Romans. 
Augustus Caesar founded a military colony there, to 
which lie gave the name of Csesarea Augusta, whence 
the coutraction Saragossa. The ry. stats, are some dis- 
tance outside the town, which has a population of 
93,000, and is situated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It 
is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army of 
Napoleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still 
^shows marks of bullets on its walls. The Gafe ofNues- 
Jra Senora del Carmen is a noble memorial of 1 he siege. 
From the stone bridge which unites the town with the 
^suburb of Altabas there is a fine view of tlie city and 
ihe Ch. of Our Lady del Filar. This is the object of 
fervent aevotion on the part of Spanish Catholics. 
According to tradition a chapel was built here about the 
year 40 of the Christian era by the orders of the Yir- 
gm herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue 
so much venerated to-day. Even when the mauso- 
leums were injured at Saragossa, this chapel and 
the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the 
present ch. was laid in 1681. The interior is rather 
naked and cold. There are, however, some beautiful 
marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In 
the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo attributed to Titian. 
The Ch. of San Salvador, or the Seo, that is, the Epis- 
copal seat, is considered, however, as more important 
than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously orna- 
mented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has 
an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here repre- 
senting the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of 
the Magi, the Ascension, etc. ; also several fine tombs. 
The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor 
Tudehlla, and the chapels are very rich. The subter- 
ranean ch. of Santa Engracia, where repose thft 



SPAIN. 411 

remains of many Christian martyrs, who were slain by 
fhe soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The oh, was 
nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other 
chs. are too numerous to mention. The Casa Mtmi- 
eipaly the Exchange, with its vast rectangular hall, 
formed by 24 beautiful columns in four rows ; th& 
Gli. of San Pablo ; the Aljaferia, which was a pal- 
ace of pleasure for the Arab kings; ttie Bull Ring ; a 
great number of beautiful private residences ; the 
University, which has a library of 25,000 vols. ; some 
convents and hospitals; and the suburb of Santa 
Engracia, may all be readily seen in the course of half 
a day. From the little hills in the neighborhood there 
are very pretty views. On the way from Barcelona to 
Saragossa you pass through 

Lerida [Fonda Suiza; DeEspafla). Prom here 
there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a 
magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic remains, mixed 
with various Arabic styles ; picturesque and rich 
cloister. The new Cathedral, built under Charles III., 
is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded 
with a great number of chapels and many fine altars. 

The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the 
limits which we had assigned for a brief journey 
through Spain. We recommend the tourist to go 
through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia. Yon 
leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach 
Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take your 
provisions with you from the hotel. The Journey 
affords a fine series of contrasted views of Spanish 
scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through 
remarkably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts.. 



41. TARRAGONA. - YALENCIA. 

and then descend into the delicious landscape in the 
neighborhood of Valencia., filled with_ groves of 
oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi- 
tropical shrubs. 

Tarragona {Paris; Europa; del Castro) is a very 
old town of about 30,000 iiihab., once the centre of 
the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are the 
sites of some of ILinnibal's battles. The Paseo de 
Santa Clara is built over the remains of the Roman 
walls. Very ancient gates here. Someof the modern 
residences are built with the debris of temples and of 
Roman palac-os. The Place of fJie Co7istitufion is on 
the site of an old Roman ciicus. The Cathedral is 
Gothic in style ; interior vas.t, aspect majestic, 
ornaments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in 
old Italian tapestries, many marble tombs and 
statues ; beautiful cloisters. In a chapel are 
the remains of Don Jaime I., King of Ara- 
gon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next 
place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city 
on the 1. bank of the Ebro (35,000 iuhab.). Imposing 
fortifications. Cathedral of liitle importauce. Shortly 
before reaching Valencia you ])ass Murciedro, near 
which are the ruins of Ihe celebrated and ancient city 
-of Saguntum. If you go to those ruins, visit them at 
midday. The population is not aggressive, but there 
have been brigands in the neighborhood. 

Valencia '(J5b^e? de Paris; Cuatro Nacionei^ : 
Espana; Orieiite; Roma) is the chief town (170,000 
inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence 
-of a captain general and of the archbishop. It is 
beautifully situated in the midst of a great number of 
-groves aiid gardens. About 2| M. distant is its port, 
called El Grao, which is accessible for large steam- 
ships. Valencia may be seen in shcrt time. The first 
-impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of irs 



SPAIN. 413 

natural situation and its arcMtecture grow upon one, 
The principal squares are those of the Constitution, 
where is the city hall ; that of S. Francisco; that of S. 
Domitigo, a market-place, which is well worth spending 
an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neigh- 
t)oring mts. are there; the celebrated Exchange and 
the Silk Hall. The Audiencia is a fine building of the 
16th century. The principal halls are ornamented with 
good portraits. The Archi episcopal Palace is con- 
nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. The Cathedral 
■dates from 1263. The largest tower is called M Migue- 
lete, from the name of the big bell which was baptized 
in the name of S. Michael. From the platform of the 
tower, splendid view of the sea and the coast. The 
interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported by 
square pillars with Corinthian capitals. High mass in 
this ch. is a splendid spectacle. Visit the Sola Capitu- 
lar, immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives, 
books, and MSS. The Ch. of S. Catalina has an old 
mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan 
del Hospital is the tomb of one of the empresses of 
Oonstantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occu- 
pied by the civil government. Very fine hospitals 
liere. The University buildings are not remarkable. 
In the Church of Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena 
by Hibalta. An invisible mechanism winds up this 
canvas and opens 4 great curtains showing a superb 
crucifix, which is much venerated by the Valencians. 
The Provincial Museum is in the ' old convent del 
Carmen (9-4);, it contains numerous old pictures, 
though few of great merit. The Theatre is large, 
but without character. The Bull Ring is immense. 
The principal promenades are the Alameda^ the 
Botanical Garden and the Glorieta. Pretty walks 
by the fcanks of the river. In the tobacco-factory. 



414 ALICANTE. — ALBACETE. 

3500 "women are occupied. The Valencian women 
are renowned for their beauty. Erom Valencia yoi 
may go to Alicante via La Encina. 

Alicante {Fonda de Bossid) is a fine seaport (40,000 
inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural 
features. Tlie streets are large and well paved. The 
Alameda de la Ueina is pretty. The City Hall, flanked 
with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2 
chs. is worth much study. The Convent of S. Clara, 
or of the Holy Tace, as it is called, possesses a much 
venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S. Vero- 
nica wiped the sweat from the brows of the Saviour. 
The Citadel of iS. Barbara is supposed to be impreg- 
nable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and 
Jativa. Tliis last mentioned town is beautifully situ- 
ated on a mt. -chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- 
vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of 
an old fortress. A French writer says that the rly. 
here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens. 
Returning from Alicante to La Encina you may take 
ticket to the Alcazar de S, Juan, or directly to Madrid. 
On the way you pass 

Albacete {Fonda Francisquillo), renowned for its 
manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise 
are always offered by.pedlers to passengers on the 
trains. The Alcazar de S. Juan is where the lines to 
Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main 
line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which 
the Order of the Knights of St. Juan made its head- 
quarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend 
carefully to your baggage. From the Alcazar de S. 
Juan to Cordova the Journey is one of the most inter- 
esting in Spain, and descends into Andalusia. At Man- 
zanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches 
off. You pass through Val de Penas, whence you get 



SPAIN. • 415 

ft good view of the Sierra Morena. Between the Alca- 
zar and the Val de Penas lies much of the country 
described in Bon Quixote. Many interesting points on 
the line. Notice Almuradiel, and Vilches, near which 
is the great plain where in 1212 a Christian army 
defeated the great Mussulman hordes under the com- 
mand of Mahomed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine 
bridge over the Guadalquivir. At Andujar there \^.. 
little of importance to be seen except the large ch. im 
what is known as tiie Piateresque style of architecture. 
CoxdiO^ciiFonda Espaflolaj Suiza j Fonda de Onentef 
is -an old town of 55,000 inhab., situated in a delicious 
plain on the r. bank ot the Guadalquivir, in full view of 
the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has a sumptu- 
ous museum of antiquities: a »reafc coUectiou of edifices 
of all epochs ; and is divided into two parts by one long, 
street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal artery for the; 
commerce of the city. The walls which still surround; 
it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or 
square, which-were the work of succsssive generations of 
Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Con- 
stitucion is surrounded by fine buildings. The old stone 
bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Au- 
gustus. The principal objects of interest are the 
Old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings, 
adjacent to it. For permission to enter address the 
porter. The New Alcazar is to-day a prison. The 
Episcopal Palace is bnilt of very rich materials, but not 
in remarkably good taste : fine gardens and good li- 
brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishopa 
of Cordova. Near this palace is the Triwifo, a hand- 
some marbL monument, surmounted with a coluraii 
which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A 
great number of the houses in the city are ornamented 
with inscriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, magis- 



416 = CORDOVA. 

trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the rly. 
station. 

The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly one 
of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It 
was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and com- 
pleted finally in 990. The exterior is rather gloomy ; 
the courtyard within, remarkably beautiful. It has 
colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre; 
and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The 
interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly 
described as a "marble grove." The roof is sup- 
ported by a vast number of slender pillars, beau- 
tifully wrought with Corinthian capitals and shafts 
of various colored marbles, of Jasper, porphyry, 
etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta 
del Perdon, opens into the beautiful Court of 
Oranges. The MiTirah, or the Holy of Holies, 
is very curious. The Mosque was converted into 
a Cathedral on the 25th of June, 1236. In the 
Colegiata de San Hipolito are two urns containing 
the ashes of King Alphonso XI. and his father, 
Ferdinand IV. ; also the tomb of the celebrated 
chronicler, Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. of S. 
Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The 
Convent of S. Pablo has beautiful cloisters and a 
magnificent staircase. Many other convents are rich 
in works of art. Just outside the ' town is the 
sanctuary of Our Lady of la Fuen Santa ; great public 
festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An 
excursion to the Ermitas in the Sierra Morena is worth 
while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is 
153^ M. On the way you pass Montilla, which is one 
of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the 
Oreat Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At 
Bohadilla a branch line to the r. goes to Malaga (re- 
freshment room here). Antequera is an old fortress, 
said to have been built in Roman times. Notice 



SPAIN. 417 

the colossal bronze angel on the cupola of the ch. of 
San Sebastian; also the Arch of Hercules, a Roman 
ruin. 

Granada {Washington Irving, and Roma, near 
Alhainbra ; Alameda, and Victoria, in the town), 
a city of 72,000 inhabitants, is world famous, 
ill id we shall only briefly indicate the best way 
to uisit the Alliambra and the other curiosities of the 
t')v\Mi ill a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes 
of 3 hills The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so 
c.illed because of their color, are on the first and the last 
of th jse hills. The Alhamhra, which is a city in itself, 
c )vers the second and the highest. The Albaycin ison 
the third, separated from the others by a deep ravine 
filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs 
the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is divided into 
4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of 
the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the 
Alhanibra. Notice the Flaza del Trhmfo, at the end 
of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white 
inirble. column, with statue of the Virgin. Here also 
are the Roi/al Hospital and the Conoent of the Merced. 
On the 'PlazaNiieoa, reached by the Zacatin, is the fine 
edifice of the Audlensia. See the Ch. of Santa Ana. 
Here is a Uiiioersiti/, with rich library and a rather 
inferior collection of pictures. The Cathedral, to be 
seen fr ).n 8 a.m. to noon, and 3 to 5 p.m., has a fine 
fiH)nt ornan anted with statues and bas-reliefs. Inteiior 
h IS 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed 
of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon 
is very fine. The Capilla del Pilar is filled with beau- 
tiful marbles. See the group of " Charity " in the Sala 
Capitular, the work of Torrigiani, the Florentine artist, 
who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla 
Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain, 
27 



415 GRANADA. — THE ALHAMBRA- 

The Royal Chapel was built to receive the remains of 
I'erdiiiaiid and Isabella, and hei-e are their tombs. The 
two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus : two lions 
repose at their feet. Here are the crown and sceptre 
of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second 
mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna, 
who Avas insane, and of PliiUp her husband. The tower 
of the Cathedral is unfinished. 

The Aihambra is open daily from 9 to 12 a.m. and 
2 to 4 p M. Leaving the Plaza Nueva you scale the 
Cuesfa de los Oomeres, At the top of this street you 
find the Puerta de las Granadas, a kind of triumphal 
arch built by Charles V., where formerly stood an an- 
cient Arabic gate. Beyond this lie the groves and the 
gardens which surround the Aihambra. We will simply 
enumerate the objects to be seen. The Pilar de Car- 
los v., ornamented with statues ; the Puerta de JuiciOf 
or Boor of Judgment ; the Plaza de los Algihes, or 
Place of the Cisterns ; the Puerta del Vino ; the Palace 
of Charles V., a fine Uenaissance structure, but un- 
finished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or 
court, surrounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 
Doric columns in marble. The Aihambra, a marvellous 
Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400 ft. long by 
250 wide. It comprised 5 interior courts. The prin- 
cipal fapade, which was to the N., was demolished to 
make room for the Palace of Charles Y. Its main 
entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and ;^ou 
can only enter it to-day through a small corridor behind 
the N. facade of the Imperial palace The Hall of 
the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Mirador, or 
toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Mezquita, 
the Hall of the Baths, the Patio de las Rejas, the 
Court of Lions, the most precious specimen o£ 
Arabesque architecture in Spain, with 138 white 



SPAIN. 419 

marble columns in the galleries surrounding it, with 
a floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 13 
great sculptured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal, 
of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall 
of the Abencerrages, should be carefully studied. In 
the hall of the Two Sisters is the famous Alham- 
hva Vase, the finest known example of Hispano- 
Moresque faience. The Royal ChapelyWhich is rarely 
open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. From 
the platform of the Tower of tlie Vela there is an 
admirable view. Visit also the Adarves, a Jiiie of old 
bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa 
Maria, the Towen of the Gautioas, of the Garaeles, of 
Los Skte Siielos, del Agua, de las Infantas and many 
others, should be carefully inspected. To visit the 
Generallfe you leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go 
down the hill by a route which crosses the ravine of Los 
Moliuos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of 
a neighboring mt. The Qeneralife was the pleasure 
house of the Alhambra. But little remains of it except 
a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one 
of the few halls which are still covered with a roof, there 
is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain, 
which have only a chronological merit. " From the 
Tower of the Generalife," says a French Avriter, " you 
fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure 
and limpid is the air through which you see that moun- 
tain chain." There are a great many beautiful excur- 
sions in the neighborhood of the Alhambra, but to 
enjoy them one must remain in the vicinity at least a 
week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are 
very interesting, but the prudent traveller will scarcely 
oare to venture among them without a stout escort. 
From Granada the distance to Malaga by rail is 119 M. 
Malaga {Roma, on the Alameda; ^oyal Victoria; 
Paris; Jnglaterra, second class, butgood), with 135, 006 



420 MALAGA. — GIBRALTAR. 

inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. The exquisite 
climate and the beautiful situation of the town are its 
chief attractions. The Episcopal Palace, the Citi/ Hall, 
the new Custom House, the Theatre, which can contain 
2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ring, which holds 
10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The Al- 
cazaha is an ancient fortress which antedates the 
Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal 
of the Moors. The Castle, of Gibralfaro is on a hill to 
the E. of the city. The highest tower is an imposing 
mass sustained by 4 arches and nearly 100 ft. high. 
Good view from this tower. The most beautiful prom- 
enade in this town is the Alameda : many pretty foun- 
tains and statues here. The Cathedral, which would be 
rich in any other country, is not remaikable for Spain. 
All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all 
kinds of fruit : orange, lemon, and Hg trees are abun- 
dant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to 
connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar. 

Gibraltar {Royal; Bristol; Grand; Etiropa) is a 
city situated on a slope on tlie W. part of the famous 
rock and facing the bay. It has about 20,000 inhab. 
exclusive o'i the Jiiiiglish garrison of 6,000 men. Main 
Street is the pniicipal artery of the town. A narrow 
road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is 
guarded by batteries. Trom top to bottom the mt. 
is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the 
mouth of a cannon. At summit is an unfinished tower, 
called OHara's or St. George's. It was intended to be 
sufficiently high to enable the sentinels to overlook the 
Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704 
the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke 
Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against 
Philip V. presented itself before Gibraltar, tlie fortifi- 
cations of which were then in ruins anf*- occupied by ai 



SPAIN. 421 

garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and 
although in the name of the archduke, England 
thought it proper to keep it. Various attempts to take 
it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but with- 
out success. The fortifications can be visited with 
special permission, which may be easily obtained at 
the hotels. There is also a good club to which 
strangers may be presented. Excursions may be made 
from Gibraltar to several interesting points on the 
African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier. From 
Gibraltar you can easily get steamship to Cadiz, as 
nearly all the trading boats along the coast stop at 
these places. The voyage is usually about 10 hrs. 
fl^^The people at the Hotels often do not warn you 
of the approach of the steamers. 

Cadiz {Fonda de Paris; Fonda de Francia; Fonda 
de Cadiz; de Furopa) is one of the most charming of 
Spanish towns (61,000 iuhab.). It is on a peninsula, 
which extends into the ocean, and is generally consid- 
ered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is 
strongly fortified, and its position is well calculated for 
defence. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina: also the 
Fort of S. Sebastian. Eroin the Torre dela Figia, in the 
centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadiz» 
and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white, 
and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque. 
The Casas Consistoriales occupy fine buildings on the 
Plaza de Isabel Segunda. The Alameda is a fine 

?romenade on one of the ramparts N. B. of the city, 
'he Park Geneves is a fine pleasure ground with sea 
view. There are many colleges and seminaries, 
as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous 
libraries. The new Caihedralj which is at the 
south end of the^ town, is not a very success- 
ful piece of architecture. A great profusion of 
marbles ly.ve been used in its decora'^ion, but the gen- 



422 CADIZ. — SEVILLE. 

eral effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treasury 
is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathedral lias 
fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S. 
Catalina are some pictures by Murillo. Step.m com- 
munication between Cadiz and Portugal, England, Hol- 
land, the rrencli and German coasts, and Mexico, is 
very frequent. 

You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steamboat, on 
the Guadalquivir, in 8 nrs. ; fares, 15 p. ; breakfast on 
board from 2 to 3 p. The journey is pretty, but most 
travellers will probably prefer the rail route, about 
82f M. ; passing through Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty 
town, enriched by commerce in wine and other products 
of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery, 
museum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E. 
of the town is a noted Carthusian monastery. 

Seville {Hotel de Madrid; de Paris; de Roma.; 
JSuropa), with 143,000 inhabitants, requires a long 
visit. We will not attempt to desci'il)e it in detai!, 
but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville 
has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most 
of its streets are narrow and crooked, and nearly 
all the houses have their patios, or inner courtyards, 
separated from the street by vestibules paved with 
white and black marble, and closed by doors of iron 
gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The 
Plaza S. Fernando is a vast square which in the morn- 
ing is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with 
orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels 
and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Palace 
of the Ayuntamiento . The Calle de Genova, at the 
S. W. angle of the square, leads to the 

Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its famous 
tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else 
in Europe is the splendor and majesty of the Catb-^lic 



SPAIN. i:23 

religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable 
marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old 
mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville 
after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built dur- 
ing the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was 
the .inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft. higli. 
In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is 
surmounted by an euorurjus statue of Faith, which 
despite its iinmense weight serves as a weather-vane. 
The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, finished 1519. 
The most striking entrance is the Puerta del Perdon, 
which was probably in old times the entrance to a 
minaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from which 
you pass under a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by 
the so-called Lhard Door. Notice especially the Chief 
Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, the Tomb of 
Fernando Columbus, the Capilla Real, which contains 
the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the 
Wise : also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the 
chapel of tiie Baptistery. Obssrve the noted picture rep- 
resenting Sfc. Antiiony of Padin, which was cut out of 
its frame and carried off to New York in 1875, and has 
now been restored. In the upper sacristy there are 
also several paintings by the same artist. In the 
sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorothea by Murillo, 
an " Ecce Homo " by Morales, and a remarkable 
painting by Goya. In the SacrisHa Mai/or is the 
vast and magnificent custodia in silver made ic 1587 
by Juan de Arfe. It is in the form of a circular 
te^iple, crowned with a statue of St. John and covered 
with a most prodigious number of ornaments and 
statues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- 
stant succession of curious spectacles, religious in 
character. From, the top *)f the Giralda Tower, 
which is reached by an inclined plane, up whicli 



424 SEVILLE. — THE ALCAZAK. 

it is said two liorses can be ridden abreast, good vieiT 
of the town, the river winding through the plains, 
and the hills beyond. Leaving the Cathedral by the 
Giralda Door, yon reach the square on which is the 
Archbishop's Palace. Thence go round the Cathedral 
to the Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com- 
memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of 
this square is the Lonja, where is a precious collection 
of documents relative to the discovery and conquest Ot 
America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far 
away is 

The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at Cordova 
and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful 
Moorish monument in Spain. It was connected with 
the great walls that ran round Seville in the time of 
the Arabs. In the Alcazar were born and died the 
Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso 
XI., father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, 
who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with 
reasonable pay, will give you full description of the 
beauties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you 
through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by the 
Monarchs of Spain whenever they visit^ Seville. 
The gardens of the Alcazar are delightful. 

The Casa de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an 
edifice built at the beginning of the 16th century, by 
the first Marquis of Tarifa. Tradition says he had 
brought back from a journey made to Jerusalem in 
1519 a quantity of earth from the very house of 
Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the 
layer on which were laid the foundations of the 
present palace, built on the plans of the dwelling 
of Pilate at Jerusalem. There are a great num- 
ber of curious and interesting palaces and i)ri- 
vate houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de los 



SPAIN. 4:2S: 

Taosros, where the tribunal of the Inquisition had ita^ 
sitting, will attract the traveller's attention. The 
guides procure admission for you to the patios of the- 
ricliest houses, where you can get au idea of the luxurj 
and beauty of these southern Spanish residences. The 
Gh. qfS. Martino lias some good pictures. The B.^s~ 
pitai of La Caridad, or tiie Charity, near the Goldea 
Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, 
contains several of Murillo's best paintings. The pro- 
vincial museum is also quite rich in the works of 
Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Murillo 
was born in Seville, Jan. 1, 1618. The Palace of 
Santelmo, the residence of the Duke of Montpensier, 
is one of the marvels of this city. Its gardens now 
form the Parque Maria Luisa, Seville is as 
busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby. 
The banks of tlie Guadalquivir are lined with ware- 
houses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if 
you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we 
recommend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you 
have not stopped at Cordova on your way down, but 
have gone directly through from the Alcazar de S. 
Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return- 
journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs.; 
fares, 65 r. 60, 49 r. 20, 29 r. 45. From Cordova 
to Madrid it is 274x M. ; time by ordinary trains, 
16 hrs.; fares, 321 r., 171 r., 104 r. 98. The express- 
rates are somewliat higher. In the late summer anA 
autumn months there is an express train, 3 times a. 
week each way, between Madrid and Seville. Between, 
the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of 
Castillijo, where you may branch off to Toledo, but we- 
do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid 
first ; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excur- 
sion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is 



426 ^KANJUEZ — MADUIO. 

Araiijuez, with rcfrcsIirDeiit buffet. This is one of 
the suiiuiier residences of I he Sj);inish court. Here is 
.a palace, beautifullj situated, commanding an immense 
view; but there is little th.at is architecturally striking 
in the building. The gardens are quite remarkable. 
The river Tagus flows through the domain. 

Madrid {Grand Hotel de la Paz; DeRoma; Be 
Paris; Fonda de los .Emhaj adores ; Ingles; P<^n In- 
sular ; Cuatro Naziones; Oriente), with 5 (K)i) 
inhab., is the capital of Spain, tlie residence of the 
Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe. 
John Hay said of Madrid that it was a "capital 
with niahce aforelhoiight," b}^ which he alluded to its 
situation in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in 
winter by the murderous winds frosii the mts. We 
recommend the tourist to devote liis chief attention to 
the museum ; then, i'^ his time permits, to include the 
=other edifices and collections of Madrid. 

The Museo del P.^ado contains vast and absolutely 
4inrivalled collection of the works of the old masters, 
but they are not very well arranged. Two immense 
galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and oth- 
ers contain the different Italian, Prench, Elemish, and 
Dutch schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum 
can be formed from the statement that it contains 46 
pictures by Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Ribera, 
64 by Velasquez, 55 by Teniers, 16 by Rubens, 10 
by Raphael, 20 by Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22 
by Van Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine, 
16 by Guido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, 
-and 25 by Paul Veronese About half-way down 
the principal gallery a door opens into an oval hall 
^called the Salon de la Reyna Isabel. Here are grouped 
together the chefs d'ceuvre of the museum. The 
.guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited witJi 



SPAIN. 43r 

great care may be had at the booksellers', or at the 
museum. 

In the Real Academia de Bellas Aries there is a 
collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms: 
Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well repre- 
sented. The Museo de Arte Moderno contains 
modern Spanish paintings and sculptures. There 
are several interesting private collections in Madrid. 
The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to 
you. 

The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) is situated in the 
W. part of the town. Among the 80 rooms on the 1st 
floor, the largest and finest is the Hall uf the Ambassa- 
dors. The vault was painted by Tiepolo, and represents- 
the exaltation of the Spanish monarchs. The walls are 
draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im- 
mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne,. 
which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of 
Prudence, and on the 1. that of Jusiice. Tlie chapel is 
extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library, 
the theatre, the magnificent collection of Flemish tapes- 
tries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Pa- 
lacioReal is the Armeria (Museum of Armor), which 
contains an extremely interesting collection. Here 
are, among many relics of famous dead, the sword 
of the Cid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gon- 
zalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria: 
also the helmet of Prancis I. The Militari/ M^^seum 
of Artillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. 
At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and 
Louis I. The museum gives a complete revicAv of the 
progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th 
century. Here also are many flags carried during the 
Spanish conquest of America The naval museum, 
the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the- 



428 MADRID. 

library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid has 
several important libraries, most noticeable among 
which are those of the University and of the legislative 
bodies. 

The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of Deputies, 
is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its 
interior is very richly oniamented with fine paintings : 
that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustin- 
ian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol 
is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. 
'The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather 
;€old and formal in sti uci arc. The effect of the architec- 
ture of Madrid is uot pleasing, compared with the wou- 
derful richness of decoration to wldch the eve Itas 
become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in Ihe 
Plaza Mai/or the equestrian statue of Philip III. ; aud 
in the Plaza de Oriente the statue of Phihp IV. In 
the Plaza de las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None 
of the churches is particularly striking; the Cafedral 
de Niiestra Senora de la AUnudetia is on the site of 
the old Armory, 'J'he Ch. of the Atocha, a modern 
Romanesque structure, contains the tombs of General 
Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. 
In the old church the marriages of the rovfil 
family were celebrated, and the troops took the oath 
of allegiance. The cemeteries in the neighborhood of 
Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead 
are sealed up, are very interesting. The Plaza de Toro>i, 
or the Bull Ring of Madrid, is one of the largest in the 
kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic st^le, built of 
brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 12,300 people. 
Every seat is numbered, and tickets to tlie bull-fights, 
which are usually given every Monday from April to 
October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in 
choosing your place to note whether it is on the shady 
or the sunny side. This is very important in Sptiin. 



SPAIN. 429 

The comic opera and some of tbe minor theatres should 
be visited. The Frado is a large boulevard which 
runs round a great part of the city, from the old Atocha 
gate to the Pnerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum 
is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a 
magnificent display of Spanish beauty : commemorative 
monument here to the second of May, one of the epi- 
sodes of the Erench occupation of 1808. There are 
numerous other fine promenades within the city. The 
PueHa de Alcald, an arch of triumph to commemorate 
the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on 
the way to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was 
built to celebrate the return of Ferdinand VII. from his 
captivity. The Plaza de Madrid is quite fine. 
There are several bridges over the little river 
Manzanares, which oddly enough is for the greater 
part of the year without any water in its channel. 
The Puesta del Sol is a gay plaza in the centre of 
the city. About 7 M. from Madrid, on the r. bank 
of the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. 
Excursion to the Escurial \\\ ly be made. It is 31^ M. 
from Madrid ; five trains daily ; fares, 25 r. 50, 19 r. 35, 
11 r. 50. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the 
eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685 
to commemorate the taking of St. Quentiu, and to ac- 
complish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This 
vast building has 15 principal entrances, and more than 
1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its 
appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the 
•Capilla Mayor, filled with royal monuments, the sac- 
risty, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar orna- 
xnented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or 
^ault, where the kin^of Spain are buried, are the prin- 
<>,ipal things to see. i ou reach the pantheon by a niag- 
.^lucent st.ii reuse of granite and marble. Tlie urn con- 



430 TOLEDO. 

taining the remains of Cliarles V. was opened in 1870, 
and the body was even then in perfect preservation. 
The Library of books and the MS. Library will attract 
the attention of scholars. The main entrance to the 
palace is in the middle of the N. fapade. See the Hall 
of Battles, covered with frescos representing Spanish 
conquests ; and the apartments in which Philip II. lived, 
and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa 
del Principe, is a charming little museum of paintings,, 
sculptures, and mosaics. See the King^s Seat, where 
Philip II. came to sit when presiding over the work of 
the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the 
route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are said 
to be even more splendid than those of the palace at 
Madrid. 

There are two routes from Madrid to the ancient and 
])icturesque town of Toledo, One leads through the 
royal residence town of Aranjuez ; the other is a little 
more direct ; fares about the same by both lines. 

Toledo {Hotel Gastilla; Fonda del Norte; Fo^nda 
de Lino; Fonda Imperial) is one of the nu)f5t 
remarkable towns in Europe. The riy. stat. is in the 
valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine Alcantara 
Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train 
to the top of the hill. On the way up observe the fine 
viev/ ill the valley, where old Toledo, which was a town 
of 200,000 inhab'., was situated. The Toledo of to-day 
has only about 20,000. The river Tagus makes a great 
curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara 
and the *S'. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the city is 
majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks ; great gates 
flanked with Moorish towers : old Puerta Visagra, 
which dates from the Arabic domination ; the celebrated 
Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d'oeuvre 
of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The prin- 



SPAIN. 431 

cipal square is the old Zocodover, to-day called the 
Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of 
interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazar the celebrated 
Ch. and Convent of S. Juan de los Reyes, and a military 
college. The Cathedral was begun in 1227, and finished 
2^ centuries later. Its architecture is pure Gothic: 
exterior of great majesty. The principal W. front has 
3 doors, called those of the Escrihanos, the Perdon^' 
and the Torre, Door of the Pardon is the largest and. 
richest. To the r. of the fa9ade is the tower : on the 1. 
the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly SOO ft. 
high, and the great bell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs- 
The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we 
renounce a detailed Jescription of them here. Observe 
particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels, 
the Capilla Mar/or, the wonderful effect of the vast 
range of stained-glass windows, especially when the sun 
is shining through them iu the morning, the Coro, a,nd 
the beautiful Gothic portal of the. Sala Cajiitular. The 
Tombs of the Constable Don Alvaro de Lima and of 
the Cardinal de Albornoz are very imposing. 

The Ch. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is ornamented 
■with a great number of chains hung on the walls out- 
side, memorials of captivities among Moslems. Th& 
cloisters, recently restored, are among the most 
beautiful in the world. Tlie stone sculptures here are 
of extraordinary delicacy and finish. The provincial 
museum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. 
S. Maria la Blancct is a curious memorial of the Jewish 
epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets, 
who study their profession here from the ao-e of 13 to 
18 years. The Alcazar is a superb edifice which 
crosses the uighest point of the hill on which the city 
is built. At the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. 
Tiie courtv"^d is formed of '-^2 arcade-"- It has been 



433 VALLADOLID. - BURGOS. 

three times burned and three times resjtored. In 
the court is a group commemorating the conquest of 
Tunis by Charles V. See the Paseo de las Rosas; 
the Paseo de Madrid. 

Valladolid {Francia, Calle de Teresa Gil; Siglo, 
Plaza de S^ Ana) is the next place of interest; although 
from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go 
by branch lines to the old university town of Sala- 
manca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town of 65,000 
inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University , Cathe- 
dral, Santa Maria la Antigua, San Pablo, Colegio 
de San Gregorio^ Museum, and Royal Palace. The 
University Library has a collection of Bibles. See 
Juan de Juni's "Virgen de los Cuchillos" in the 
church of Las Angustias, and house where Columbus 
died in 1506. The Museum of Valladolid, which is 
located in the Colegio de Santa Cruz, contains sculp- 
tures in wood and examples of the works of Rubens, 
Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal 
treasure of the cathedral is a magnificent custodia, 
or tabernacle, in silver. 

Burgos (Hotels: Fonda del Norte; Paris), with 
32,000 inliab., may be seen in a short time. Notice 
the Bronze Statue of Charles III. ; the celebrated Casa 
del Gordon; thaOasade Miranda, covered with sculp- 
tures ; the Espolon, beautifully decorated, with 3 iine 
alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens, 
and fountains ; the Cathedral, one of the marvels of the 
13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Goth- 
ic architecture. The principal fayade towards the W. 
' is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnifi- 
cent, and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs, 
sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc Observe the Tomb of the 
Constable of Castille. In Ch. of S. Esteban is a very 
fine Cena. Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip 
II. to Pemando Gonzales : also the house of the Cid, 
or the monument erected in 1784 on the ruins of thai; 



SPAIN. 433 

house. .In the City Hall are the remaLis of the Great 
Captain and his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden 
coffin. The Arch of S. Maria is very handsome. 
Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos. 

The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and 
San Sebastian (the pretty watering-place frequented 
in late years by English and Americans) all deserve 
attention; but the tourist will hardly find time to 
stop at any of them. The frontier of France is 
reached at Irun. There is little of importance to see 
in Irun : memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this 
neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station. 
A little beyond it is S. Jean de Luz. The old town 
of Fontarahia may be reached from Irun. 

Next comes Biarritz {Grand Hotel; Victoria et de 
la Plage; UAngleterre; JDes Princes; Des Ambas- 
sadeurs; De V Europe; good Casino here; omnibus 
to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popu- 
lar seaside resorts on the S. coast of France. It was 
a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie. 

Bayonne, 28f M. from Irun {Hotel du Commerce; 
St. Etienne; Des Ambassadeurs; De France; 
Gastille), with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of 
the Adour and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows 
in the Cathedral, 15th century. The Place Gram- 
mo?it contains the Theatre, the Mairie, and the 
Custom House. Good view of the sea from the 
citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its 
name. 



i34 L^BON. 



PORTUGAL^ 

WE have thought it probable that the Tacatioa 
tourists would not be likely to push their jour- 
ney as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragraph con- 
cerning the journey to Portugal, Eares from Madrid 
to Badajos, 3711 M., 299 r. 50, 227 r. 91, 145 r. 87. 
Trom Badajos to Lisbon it is 174^' M., 5,260 reis, 
4,100 r., 2,930 r. ; time, 10 hrs. ; 2 trains a day. Lisbon 
time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis, 
the Portuguese monetary unit, is about | centime, or 2|- 
mills : each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto 
dc reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish 
real, 25 centimes, is 46 reis. On the way from Badajos 
to Lisbon you pass through Saiitarem, M^iere there are 
many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of 
the Middle Ages. 

Lisbon, in Portuguese Lisbon {Areifida Palace; 
Grand Hotel Central,, situated on the Bay; Continen- 
tal; Braganga; Durand, mod. charges), with 310,000 
mluib., is on the r. bank of the river Tagus, Ibnilt 
in an amphitheatre on numerous hills. _ The general 
view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail 
is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the 
Diiro do Praga Augusta, the Chiado, and Alecrim. 
The Commercial Square, Praqa do Commercio, has the 
largest and most remarkable public buddings in the 
city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills. 
In the middle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue 
of Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous 
buildings, the Exchange, the Custom House, the Post 
Q^ctfjthe Ministries, eto- On the middle of the N. side. 



PORTUGAL. 435 

magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedraly Chs. of 
S. Antonio, of S. Rogue, of the Carmelites, and many 
convents have rich collections of art treasures. The 
Royal Palace, or Pago das Neeessidades, faces a small 
square of the same name. See Botanical Gardens, 
reported the finest in the world. Observe beautiful 
aqueduct which crosses the Alcantara Valley. The 
Library of the Royal Academy of Sciences, National 
Museum of Fine Arts, and the San Carlos and Dona 
Maria Segunda Theatres should be seen. There are 
but few remains of old Lisbon, which was destroyed 
by the great earthquake. The inclined plane rlys. are 
convenient ; fine views on many of them. The Belem 
possesses a great many fine gardens. The old Bale in 
Monastery is worth a visit. Uamalhao, the Alniada 
Mafra, a vast convent ch., and the Palace of Clntra, 
where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal 
suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is 
weekly steam communication with South America, with 
the East, and with England. A journey may be made 
to Oporto, taking Coimhra on the way. Fares to 
Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r. ; time, 11^ hrs. ; 
distance, 158|- M. 

Coimbra {Gonti^iental; Mondego; Bragauga) is on 
the r. bank of the Mondego and has a most delicious 
climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has 
numerous manufactures of faience. The Romans 
made it one of their most important military posts. To- 
day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen. 
University, with 900 students here. The old Cathedral 
is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel 
of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable. Tisit Quinfa 
das Lagrimas Park with its Ponte dos Amour, where 
lived Inez de Castro, sung by Camoens. 



436 OPORTO. - PAU. 

Oporto {Hotel Francfort; Grand Hotel; Hotel de 
Paris), with 140,000 inhab., is the second city of Por- 
tugal. It is built on 2 hills, and the valleys which ex- 
tend between these are filled with charming villas and 
country-houses. The effect of the Quint as, or Terraces, 
is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not 
especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quar- 
ters, the oldest of which, San Martinho, has but little of 
importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Dos Cleri- 

Cos (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great 
arracks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady of 
Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro IV. is 
preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco ; 
also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, and the 
Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving 
commercial town. Erom Lisbon to Fvora it is 72 M. ; 
fares 3,120 r., 2,390 r., 1,610 r. 

Evora is a highly fortified city of 12,000 inhab., in 
the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, 
and fig groves. Many Roman antiquities here. Erom 
Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 169^ M. 

Faro, on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 
10,000 inhab., with a good cathedral; fine military hos- 
pital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. 
Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group 
of islands. 

Erom Bayonne it is 65f M. (fares, 13 fr., 9 fr. 75 c. 
7fr. 20 c.) to 

Pau {Hotel Gassion, a splendid edifice ; Bellevue; 
Splendide; De France; Beau Sejour; de la Poste; 
Grarid Hotel; delaPaix; deV Europe. Pensions: 
Colbert; Hattersley. Restaurants: Gassion, Com- 
merce, de la Dorade), with 29,000 inhab., is one of the 
most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a 
favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate. 



FRANCE. 437 

Life is rather expensive at Pau, but there are a great 
number of strangers there yearly; abundance of 
beautifully furnished apartments to be had. The 
town is divided into 3 parts by the little brooklet 
called the Gave, over which there are 5 bridges. The 
Castle of Henri IV. (open daily except Mon. from 
10 to noon and from 2 to 4 p.m.), near Pau, is well 
worth visiting. Magnificent Flemish tapestries made 
by order of Francis I., in the great Hall of the States. 
The Ch. of S. llartm, modern ; the Palace of Jus- 
tice; the Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., from 1 to 
5, free, and every day for a small fee); the Place 
Poyale, with a statue of Henri IV. , may all readily 
be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. rly. to 
Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux-Bonnes {Hotel des 
Princes ; He France ; Continental) and Eaux- 
Ghaudes. The former town receives between 6 and 
10,000 invalids and tourists annually; vast bathing 
establishments here, also Casino, concert halls, 
theatre, reading rooms, etc. The thermal establish- 
ment at Eaux-Chaudes (Hotel Baudot; He Prance) 
is one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The 
waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma- 
tism, and skin diseases. For full description of this 
Pyrenean bath region we cannot do better than to 
refer you to the work on the Pyrenees by Adolphe 
and Paul Joanne, published by Hachette, Paris. 

Cauterets (Hotel Continental; He Prance; HAn- 
gleterre; Hu Pare) may be reached via Pau and 
Tarbes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing 
establishments; about 20,000 tourists visit Cauterets 
annually. ^ Beautiful excursions in the neighbor- 
hood. Going N., after leaving Bayonne, the first 
place of importance is 

Bordeaux (Hotel de France; He Bayonne; He 
Faisan; Hes Princes et de la Paix; Hes Americains; 



438 BORDEAUX. 

Confortable ; Com7nercial) , with 256,000 inhab.. 
a beautiful town on the 1. bank of the Garonne. The 
city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its 
coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and. 
deep, and navigable for nearly all classes of steamships. 
See the Bordeaux bridge, built in 1819, from which 
admirable view of the river, and its banks liued M^ith 
palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la 
Comedie, on which stands a great theatre, is the princi))al 
rendezvous for strangers. AH the principal hotels are 
in this neighborhood ; but the largest of all the squares 
in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are 
the Rostral columns, surmounted by statues of Com- 
merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues 
here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu ; an equestrian 
statue of Napoleon III., which stood in the Tourny alley, 
was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in 
Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. 
This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in 
the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre was con- 
secrated in 1090 ; rebuilt at different epochs ; and is now 
being restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Tower 
of Pey-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it, 
in 1440. The ch. of S. Michel, founded 1160, belongs 
to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell 
tower. The ancient ch. of S. Croix has a rich fayade 
recently restored. The Palace (f Justice has numerous 
statues of noted Frenchmen, in the vestibule of the 
court stands a statue of Montesquieu. Many of the 
other public buildings are adorned with sculptures and 
paintings. The great Theatre has a fine vestibule orna- 
mented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that 
the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and 
that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prus- 
sians, The Museum, founded 1803, has about 600- 



FRANCE. 139 

pictures of moderate merit ; catalogue, 5ly c. ; museum 
open Sun,, Mon., and Tburs., 10-3 ; other clays small 
fee. See Library, 200,000 vols , the Museum of 
Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History, 
also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of -the 
Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Mon- 
tesquieu. Bordeaux is a very important commercial 
port : steam navigation with South America, Russia, 
Holland, England and Ireland, New York, and New 
Orleans. The public garden is a pretty promenade. 
The watering-places of Bagnhes de Bigorre and Bagn- 
eres de Louchort may both be conveniently reached 
from Bordeaux. 

Erom Bordeaux it is 34| M. (fares, 4 fr. 65 c, 3 fr. 55 
c, 3 fr. 45 c.) to 

Arcachon {Grand Hotel ; Legallais ; De Frances 
Richelieu; Jampy). This is a charming seaside resort 
on the Bay of Biscay ; and in the pine forest which 
stretches along the coast are a great number of vrinter 
villas. The Casnio is a c Harming palace with Moresque 
cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit 
Arcachon annually. From Bordeaux it is 159:|- M. 
<time, h\ hrs., fares, 31 fr. 65 c, 23 fr. 75 c, 17 fr, 
40 c.) to 

TovlouBQ {Hotel TivoUier ; De f Biirope ; Souville)^ 
with 147,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Lan- 
guedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but 
little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral 
of St. Etienne and the Museum (founded 1792) of an- 
tiquities, pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux 
to Paris it is 35 8|^ M. ; time, about 9 hrs. by express ; 
fares, 72 fr. 5 c, 54 fr. 5 c, 39 fr. 65 c. You paw 
through Angouleme, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans, 

Angouleme {Hotel du Palais; de France), on the 
Charente, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a 



440 VICHY. — AIX-LES-BAINS. 

fine Gothic Cathedral, Theatre^ a Cabinet of Natural 
History, and a good Library. 

Poitiers {Rotel du Palais ; De V Europe ; De France) 
is near the river Ciain. Its finest square is the Place 
d'Jrmes. Cathedral in Gothic style, with very lofty 
halls. Interesting ch. of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine 
Notre Dame; many Roman antiquities here ; Palace of 
Justice, with room much like Westminster Hall in 
London. The English\held this town 300 years. 4 Mo 
from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince 
defeated the French under John, in 1356. 

Orleans and Tours, see pages 197-198. 

Two of the most celebrated of Prench summer- 
resorts are Fic/iy and Aix-les-Bains, both of which are 
easily reached from Lyons. 

Vichy {Hotel des Ambassadeurs ; Du Cherbourg ; 
Du Pare ; Des Princes; Mombrun; De Eichelieu; Du 
Louvre') is on the banks of the AUier, in a pretty valley 
enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most 
popular watering-place in Prance. Wonderful cures o( 
gout and rheumatism are reported from Yichy. Bath- 
ing season begins May 1 and ends October 1. The old 
town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is 
striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the 
old Park, at one end of which is the bathing establish- 
ment, and at the other the Casino. 

Aix-les-Bains {Grand Hotel d'Aix ; De i' Europe; 
Bernascon et Regina ; Du Centre ; Interoiational ; 
Du Nord et Grande Bretagne) is a very popular 
watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Chambery; 9 sul- 
phur springs here effect important cures. See Eoman 
remains; Casifio, Baths; English Ch. Beautiful ex- 
cursions to source of the Marlizo; to the Abbey of 
Haute Combe, where are the tombs of the House of 
Savoy ; to the Nivolet; to the Mollard Garden; to 
the Cascade; to Qresy; and to the Annecy. 



COPENHAGEN. 441 



A TOUR IN THE NORTH. 

FROM Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239)y, 
you may, if time permits, make a tour of great 
interest in the North. We will for the present con- ! 
tent ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton, 
routes for a short journey through portions of Den- 
mark, Norway, Sweden, and Russia. You may begin 
your trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From. 
Ham.burg to the German naval depot of Kiel it is- 
3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 6| 
lirs. ; and from Korsor it is 4i^ hrs. to Copenhagen. 
Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to 
Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 16 hrs. (fares, 
45 mks., 35 mks. 10 pf.). 

Practical Information. — The money in Denmark^ 
Norway, and Sweden is reckoned in krone (k.) and 
ore, or ^re (o.). There are 100 o. in 1 k. ; 90 ore=:l shil- 
lin.jT. — Steamboat schedales are frequently altered : 
remember this in making plans. — • The best season for 
travelling in these countries is from June to mid-Sep- 
tember. — For a journey to the North Cape, select June 
or July. — The fjords of the Western Coast of Norway 
should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an ex- 
cellent Guide du Voyageur, published in Stockholm, for 
detailed trips. 

Copenhagen {Phcenix ; King of Denmark; IfAn-^ 
gUterre; Monopol; Dagmar; National (409,000 inh.), 
stands npon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed 
in a line of fortifications, now used as a promenade 
The panorama of batteries, docks, stores, and arsenals,, 
as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. Tha E, 



442 COPENHAGEN. 

part of the harbor is protected by the Castle of 
Frederikshavn. Part of the city is built on the small 
Island of Amager, and is called C hristianshavn. 
The channel between the two islands forms the 
port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces 
and public buildings, and 2 to 3 days may well be 
spent in Inspecting the art collections. The royal 
residences are quite numerous. Amalienborg, the 
chief house of the royal family, consists of four 
small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the 
king's; the second is the Foreign Office; the third 
contains state apartments; the fourth pertains to 
the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Frederick V. 
in the square. The Royal Chapel faces the ruins of 
the Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1884. 
The handsome 3 -towered Gothic Bosenhorg Castle 
is in the centre of llie King's garden. There see 
Chronologiral collection of the Danish Kings — 
rooms dedicated to each king and filled with relics 
of his life arr"" deeds. The Audience Chamber of 
Christian 1 V , the golden cups ; the bedroom in 
which Christian IV. died, in 1648 ; the Marble 
Hall ; the beautiful room called the Rose ; and 
the Turret Chamber are the other curiosities. 
Observatory near this palace. Frederiksberg Pal- 
ace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beau- 
tiful park. Zoological Gardens near by. In the 
Vor-Frue-Kirke (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculp- 
tures by Thorwaldsen ; and in an alcove his coffin 
"was placed at the funeral, while the royal family 
stood bareheaded round it. See Thorwaldsen's Bap- 
tismal Font; also two bas-reliefs — the Baptism of 
Christ and the Last Supper. The Art Museum con- 
tains a fine collection of modern Danish paintings 
and sculptures (not Thorwaldsen's), and also a num- 
ber by older artists, being especially rich in examples 
of the Rembrandt school. The Old Clyptotliek and 
the New Clyptothek contain very valuable collections 
of ancient and modern sculpture respectively. 



COPENHAGEN. 44S 

- The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is Thorwald- 
sen's Museum, built by subscription to contain casts- 
of all his works and many originals (catalogues at 
hotels and museum). In room 43 are Thorwaldsen's 
last unfinished works. Here also is the tomb of the 
great sculptor. In the Prindsens-Palais is the Na- 
tional Museum, containing the Danish Collection 
(prehistoric and historic) of northern antiquities, the 
EthnographiG Collection, and the Collection of An- 
tiquitieSo Open daily, except Monday, 12 or 1 to 3. 
Visitors should see the A7'senal, close to the Cliris- 
tiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1-3). Royal Library 
(550,000 vols.) close by. Beautiful new equestrian 
statue in bronze opposite the palace. 

The Exchange, the Museum of Natural History, the 
University/, Library, the Ch. of the Trinity, with its 
famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count 
Moltke's collection of pictures (Wed., 12-2), and the 
pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily oc- 
cupied for a Aveek. — Near Copenhagen is Charlotten- 
lund, a country house, inhabited in summer by some 
member of the royal family. Pretty drives hereabouts. 
To the Deer Park, a royal preserve, filled with vast 
herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer ; and to Hurs- 
holm, where once stood a superb palace built by Chris- 
tian VI. Not far away is the Island of Hveen, where 
the astronomer Tycho Brahe resided. 

Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsinore 
{_Oresmid Hotel), 30 ]VI from Copenhagen, easily 
reached by rail or steamer in 2 hrs. The Castle and 
the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of 
the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on a 
terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the 
^ave of Hamlet (see Murray's " Denmark "). Hamlet's 
identification ifrith this spot is founded on very sb'ght 



ELSINORE. — MALMO. 

proof. Near Elsinore is Gitrre, a lainuus residence of 
inaiiy Danish kings. Roeskilde was tlie most impor- 
tant town in Denmark, and renmined a royal residence 
from the lOtli to the 15tli century. The Cathedral is 
the finest building of its kind in Denmark. In its N. 
^isle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chronicler, is buried. 

From Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish 
to visit Norway can go by steamer four times daily 
in 1|- hrs. (16 M.) to Malmo {Kramer's Hotel; 
Horn), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly. 
in sixteen hrs. (one through express daily; fares, 
52 k. 5 6., 35 k. 65 o.) to the Swedish capital, 
Stockholm, Ilalmo (55,000 inhab.) was during the 
Hanseatic period the chief commercial town on the 
Sound. Bothwell, Mary Stuart's third husband, was 
imprisoned in the castle here, 1573-78. Charles XV. 
died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through 
Iiund iStadshuset ; Grand Hotel), where is the finest 
cathedral in Scandinavia, founded ni the lltli century. 
See old University/ buildings here ; and near the Cathe- 
dral a Statue of Tegner, who composed many of his 
poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors. 
Xiinkoping {Stora Hotellef) also has a noble ch., built 
1150-14!99. Notice Norrkopifi^. near Stockholm. 



GOTHENBURG. — CHRISTIANIA. 445 



NORWAY. 

We tMnk our travellers will prefer to visit Norway 
o'l the way to Sweden, rather than to neglect such an 
■excellent chance; and we shall therefore recommend 
them to go from Copenhagen to Christiania (semi- 
weekly steamers, touching at Gothenburg; time, 47 hrs.; 
fares small) . The traveller can go from Gothenburg 
to Stockholm by rail (13 hrs. ; fares, 38 k. 65 o., 
27 k. 95 0.), if he changes his mind about Norway. 

Gothenburg {Hagluncfs; Gota Kdllare; d^ Angle- 
terre) is a busy and pleasant commercial town of 
125,000 inh., on the Gotaelf. Excellent harbor, rarely 
closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenburg 
was during the continental blockade, when it formed 
the depot of English trade with Northern Europe. 
The Exchange, the Town Hall, the Christinakyrka, the 
Statue of Qustavus Adolphus, the Museum (open daily), 
the Siottsslcog Park, with fine view, and the pretty 
garden of the Horticultural Society with hothouse 
and exotic plants near the Wallgraf, comprise the 
chief features of the town. Those who wish to go 
from Gothenburg to Stockholm by the steamer can 
do so (Tues., Fri., Sat.; fares, 25, 17, and 12 k.). 

Christiania {Grand; Victoria; Skandinavie; Bri- 
tannia; Bouleyard),t\iQ capital of Norway,has 200,000 
inhab. Steamships from London, Holland, Hamburgh 
etc.j land their passengers on the two quays near the 
Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30-40 6.; 
cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 o.). Christiania is charm- 
ingly situated at the N. end of a fjord. It was founded 
by (and named for) Christian lY. in 1624. It is the seat 
of government and of the supreme court of Norway ; and 
^he ?*Qrwegian Parliament also sits here- The Univer- 



446 CHPJSTIANIA AND SUBURBS. 

sity. National Picture-Gallery, Observatory, and Royai> 
Palace will occupj' the attention for a day. E. of the 
market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, consecrated iu 
1697j restored in 1849. Near this edifice is the famous. 
Steam Kitchen for the poor classes, where economical 
dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres, 
the Freemasons' Lodge, the Akershus, the Fortress (many 
centuries old), are all withia an easy walk of each other. 
The Akershus was besieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 
1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., wha 
Avas signally defeated a little later by the Norwegian 
naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views from the ram- 
parts. See the Eidsvolds Plads, the pretty square 
planted with trees, E. of which is the Parliament Fdifice. 
This has a handsome fajade, flanked with granite Hons 
(fee to enter). The summer session ends in June. 
The National Gallery (Sunday, Tuesday, Wednes- 
day, and Thursday, 12-2, free; at other times, fee) 
was founded in 1837, and contains 400 pictures. 
The Trinity Ch., the Gamle Jkers Kirlce, — the oldest 
ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, — the 
monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Nor- 
wegian poets, and the view from St. John's Hill should 
not be forgotten. In the University, founded 1811, 
there are numerous collections of interest. It has 1,000 
students, and a library of 250,000 vols. Tlie Royal 
Palace is a large plain edifice, with handsome portico, 
on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall, the 
Throne Boom, and Audience Chamber are beautifully 
adorned. In front is an equestrian Statue of Charles 
XIV. The Norsh Folks Museum (daily except Wed. 
and Sat.) and the Art Industrial Museum (daily 
except Sat.) are the only other important sights. 

Suburbs.— See Oscarshall (tickets and information 
free at the hotels), a castle built for King Oscar in 



THEONDHJEM. 447 

1847, with works of Swedisli and Norwegian artists. 
Noble view from the roof. Also visit tlie Ekeherg. 

There is direct steam communication between Chria- 
tiania and Hull, 3 days ; London, 4 days ; Havre, 
4 days ; Hamburg, 36 hrs. ; Lubeck, 48 hrs. ; md 
twice a month to New York. 

Brief Excursions in Norway, 

C^eneral Notes. — On all the fjords, and along thft 
coast of Norway, there are excellent steamboat lines, ancf 
travel in this way is comparatively cheap. The food i». 
usually good. Beer is the national drink. The rigid tem- 
perance laws of Norway make it impossible to obtain spirits- 
on the steamboats or at rao?t of the principal railway restau- 
rants. On the lakes there is usually a service 3 times a day- 
All Norway is covered with a network of excellent routes j, 
and there are few more pleasant ways of travelling than in 
the post-chaise among the mountains and beside the fjords,, 
if the traveller be prudent enough to look out for his relays 
of horses. It is only on the most frequented routes that; 
one can get carriages and horses to make a long journey. 
The driver generally takes care of himself and his'horses for 
a fixed sum. Carriages can carry 8 or 4 persons, with bag- 
gage. The relay service is very well arranged, and there 
will be no occasion for complaint if you always send a tele- 
gi-am ahead. The charges for the horses and carriages are 
by the mile, and are moderate. On the lakes the rowera 
also work for a fixed tariff. The amount of baggage is alsa 
determined by regulation. 

Throndhjem {Britannia; d'Angleterre; Grand; 
Scandinavie), the ancient Nidaros, and the third city 
in Norway, has 34,000 inhab. Here Norwegian kings 
were crowned in the Middle Ages. Formerly the capi- 
talof the kingdom; and its cathedral (open daily, free, 
12-1), the finest in the North, was oncp' a, great resort 



448 BERGEN. — HAMMBRFEST. 

for pilgrims. It is built of a bluish clilorite slate, with 
"which the marble columns form an admirable contrast. 
In the 11th and 12th centuries this ch. was the buriah 
place of the kings ; and here Charles XIV., Oscar I.» 
Charles XY., and Oscar II. were crowned. You may 
go from Christiania to Throndhjem bj rail, but the jour- 
ney is tedious, and we recommend the carriage route, 
or the steamboat voyage around the coast. 

From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite excursion. 
On the Strandefjord is the noted Fagern^es Hotel, a 
great resort for tourists. Bergen {Holdfs; Norge; 
iSmeby) is on a hilly peninsula and isthmus, with 
handsome high mts. in the background. The town 
(70,000 inhab.) was founded by King Olaf in 1070, on 
the site of an old royal residence. Many great battles 
have been fought in its neighborhood. See Bergenhus, 
Nygaards Park, and Fishmarhet (on Wed. and Sat., 
8-10 A.M.). The Museums have very good collections. 
The best view of the town is from the Ploifjeld, N.E. 
of the harbor. The overland route from Bergen to 
Molde is interesting for leisurely tourists. 

Another good excursion is, from Christiania to Kongs- 
herg, the Falls of Bjukan, the Hardangerfjord, and to 
Bergen. Still another is from Christiania to Vads'6, 
along the coast. Trom Yadso, those who have time 
may push on to Hammerfest (Jatisen's Rotet), the 
most northern city in the world. It is buijt along the 
shores of a little bay, protected by a peninsula from 
the fury of the N. wmds. Prom a mountain in the 
neighborhood there is an extensive view over the 
glaciers of Sejland and Soro. Hence travellers can 
usually see the midnight sun in midsummer. Those 
who wish to visit the North Cape should remember 
that the sole attraction of the journey consists in the 
bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. A steamer 



STOCKHOLM 449 

usually leaves Hamburg on Monday morning, arriving- 
at Vadso Wednesday afternoon and at Hammertest 
on Saturday evening. 

SWEDEN. 

You may go by rail in 5^ hours (fares, 10 k. 55 6., 
7 k. 55 o., 4 k. 80 o.) to Cliarlottenherg (Railway 
llestaurant) , on the Swedish frontier; change car- 
nages here, and thence in 14-18 hours (fares, 30 k. 
40 o., 22 k. 35 o., 14 k. 20 6. ; express rates a trifle 
higher) to 

Stockholm {Grand Eot el; Rydlerg; Kung Karl: 
Kung Karls Annex; Continental; in the old town, 
Odergotland) . Good restaurants m principal hotels. 
Jn the southern fauborg, Peligan ; fine view over 
Stockholm and its environs. Good music at Blanch's 
Cafe, Bern's iSalonger^ and the Strom part err i^ 
'.■^eI•y evening. The principal bank, Riksbanken, 
at Jern Torget. Population, 275,000. Sea com- 
munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Am- 
f^terdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux and 
Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Car- 
rijiges at all rly. stations. Day price, 1 k. for 1-2 
povsons for single drive; 1 k. 25 6. for 3-4 persons; 
from 11 v.ii. to 6 a.m., 50 per cent, increase. Trips 
to pubnrbs at moderate rates. Baggage, 20 6. ; 'bus 
and tram., 10 o. The capital of Sweden is situated 
on t^ie banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into 
the Baltic Sea, and occupies two peninsulas and many 
islands, joined by handsome bridges. Old travelers 
say that Stockholm's situation is the most beauti- 
ful in Europe, after that of Constantinople. The 
city is divided into six parts: the Staden, or 
city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Eid- 
darholmen, and. Helgeandsholmen, the narrowest 
and least agreeable part of Stockholm, but the most 



450 PRINCIPAL SIGHTS IN STOCKHOLM. 

animated, anci the commercial centre; Norrmalm, the 
N. section, with the island of Blasieholmeu ; Ladugdrds- 
landet, a quarter built in the reign of Queen Christina; 
Kungsholmen (King's Island) ; Sodermalm, the S. fau- 
bourg; and Saltsjo-Oame, composed of four islands. 
The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which 
it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, and holme, 
island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic 
legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Tine 
views from the Mosebacke ; from Kasfellholmen ; from 
the Observatory ; from the Tower of Jacob's Ch. j from 
By stromas Villa ; and from the Tivoli. 

Principal Sights. — In the city Staden: the Royal 
Palace, - — burned in 1G97, and rebuilt in 1753, — one of 
the finest in Europe, on an eminence close to junction 
of lake and sea. Yast panorama from the terrace. 
View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the 
majestic mountains, forests, and green plains. Cost of 
palace, 10,500,000 k. See the N. fapade and the Gus- 
tavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejonsbacken, a stair- 
case ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front 
portico is decorated with the Swedish arms, — 3 bronze 
crowns, supported by a ilgure of Renown. The S., W., 
and E. fa9ades have beautiful works of art. The chapel, 
128 ft. long by 50 ft. wide, has fine marble columns 
and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured 
and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols of the Evan- 
gelists, — the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece 
represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 
143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See sdver throne 
given to Queen Christina by Magnus Gabriel; and 
statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIV. by Bystrom. 
Here the king opens and closes the Diet in presence of 
the two chambers of the kingdom. The interior of the 
palace is visible in summer; small fee. See the cere- 



STOCKHOLM. 451 

monial halls where great festivals are held : Audience 
Chamber ; fine ceiling bj Fouquet ; magnificent cande- 
labra, 29 ft. high ; two porcelains : Red Room, where 
Giistavus III. slept (many marble statues here) : great 
gallery, 162 ft. long ; wonderful collection of sculp- 
tures ; mythological frescos : two smaller rooms, de- 
voted to pictures of battles : a second gallery aud two 
rooms devoted to allegories of Peace : Festival Hall, — 
sometimes called the White Sea, — with richly painted 
ceilings Victoria Hall, the Hall of the Columns, aud 
the present king's and queen's apartments : Library 
very rich ; Museum of Armour and Costumes, a good 
collection. On the great square, S. of the palace, 
is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the 
fidelity of the citizens of Stockholm during the war 
of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near the port, 
statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the 
Church of St. Nicholas, founded in 1360 or 1264, 
reconstructed 1726-43, restored 1892; a spire 308 ft. 
high; interior divided into 5 naves by rows of columns; 
altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the 
birth of the Saviour ; organ one of the largest in Swe- 
den ; immense stores of beautiful silver vessels and 
candelabra ; remarkable funereal monuments. Oppo- 
site the palace, beyond the Slottsbacken, is tlie House 
of the Cover nor of Stockliohn, built by Tessin, tlie most 
celebrated architect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. 
In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of 
Blood, as it is called in Swedish history, — the execu- 
tion of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents of Christiaa 
II., King of Denmark, who was seeking to extend 
his rule over Sweden, — took place. Here is the 
Bourse, built in 1766; fine halls in the first story. 
Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. 
high, and the only chime of bells in Sweden; 



452 STOCKHOLM. 

injured by fire in 1878, but restored. Here also is 

the Knights' House (1648), one of the finest palaces in 
Stockholm ; noble staircase ; walls decorated with the 
arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of Gustavus 
Vasa before this house, erected on the 250th anniver- 
sary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The 
courts of justice and other public buildings are not far 
away. At Slceppsbro^ the port, are the telegraph office 
and the Custom House. The Scandinavian Credit 
Bank is the finest modern building in the city. The 
Gothic Ch. of the Knights' Island {fiiddarholms-Kyrkav^ 
is on the Riddarholmen Island, to the W. of the Eques- 
trian Palace. It belonged to a famous Franciscan 
convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was 
reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, 
and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a 
nrjausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give de. 
scription). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus 
dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built 
1686-1743), with marble sarcophagus of Charles XII. 
Here also repose Charles X., Charles XV., Frederick, 
and many others. Ch. open from May 1 to October 1, 
Tues. and Thurs., 13-2 p.m. ; fee, ' 25 6. On the 
Riddarhoim are also the Roi/al Courts of Justice, the 
Chamber of Deputies, ihe Royal Archives, and the Statue 
of Birger Jarl. Go by the great northern bridge — 
380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797 — to Helgeands- 
holmen, with its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal 
stables. 

In the N. section {Norrmdlm) is the Gustavus Adol- 
phus Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with re- 
hefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W., 
Palace of the Crown Prince. Opposite is Royal Opera 
Mouse, erected on site of theatre where Gustavus III. 
was killed by Ankarstrom. E. , near this square, is the 



STOCKHOLM. 453 

Jacob's Ch. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with sculp- 
tures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here. 
To the E. is the Cliarlts XII. Place., with statue of Charles 
XII. To the N., the promenade called the King''s Garden., 
statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near 
by. In the Berzelius Park., statue of Berzelius, the father 
of chemical science. E. of the Charles XII. Place is the 
National Museum (open daily except Mon., 11-3; Sun., l-3)» 
On the ground floor is the Historical Museum, founded in. 
the 17th century, and one of the largest of its kind. The 
Hall of the Middle Ages is especially interesting. On the 
first floor are collections of furniture and house decora- 
tions, ceramics, and sculpture, the last of unusual merit. 
On the upper floor is the picture gallery, in which the 
Italian, G-erman, Flemish, Spanish, French, Swedish, 
Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well repre- 
sented. From the National Museum, an iron bridgeleads 
to the Sheppsholm, an island on which are the Karl- 
Johanskyrka, the Naval Academy, and the Naval Arsenal. 
The Academy of Fine Arts (18T1) is in the Red Shop 
Square. The Clara-Kyrka (1283; burned 1751; rebuilt 
1753 ; restored 1893) is very interesting. At Kun-gsholmen 
are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories. 
Also the Mint, and a ch. with a fine altar-piece. Not far 
away is the principal military school. There are many 
other interesting things in the city quarter (see local 
guides). The Ch. of St. John should be seen. In the 
cemetery of the latter. Yon Dobeln, one of the heroes of 
the last war against the Russians, is buried. The two 
principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents' and 



454 UPS ALA. 

Queen Street, — in Swedish, Regeringsgatan and Drott- 
ninggatan. The Academy of Science, the Natural 
History Museum, the Technological Institute, the Min' 
ing School, and the Observatory, are all in this quarter. 

In the Ostermalm quarter are the Artillery 
Square and a eh. founded in 1658, remarkable for its 
acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000 
vols., founded under Charles IX. (open daily, except 
Sat., 11-2). In the Sodermalm, or S. faubourg, is the 
Karl Johans Place, with equestrian statue to memory 
of that king. Here also, in the Horniciatan, 43, is the 
house which Swedenborg inhabited. The Katharina- 
Kyrka is on the spot where the victims of the Battle 
of Blood were buried. Fine view from top of Soder- 
inalin (elevator). The environs of Stockholm are 
noted for their beauty, especially during the woiuler- 
f ully clear nights of June and July. The Carlberg 
dnd Drottningholm should be visited, and especially 
the Djurgard, a beautiful park on an island 2 M. 
long. At the W. end of this island is the jyorfJiem 
lldseum, a large collection of Scandinavian curios- 
ities wnich will repay a long visit. 

Upsala {Stads-Hotellet ; Svea; good restaur- 
ants), the most famous university town in Sweden 
(20,000 inhab.J, and the residence of the archbishop 
and other dignitaries. It lies on both banks of the 
Fyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly 
called Ostra-Aros, and when the Swedish kings resided 
at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical 
and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythical 
associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the 
Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), situated on a pictu- 
resque height. The chief curiosities are the Burial 
Chapel of Gustavus Vasa (ai^ the back of the choir), 
and the tomb of Linnaus» the great botanist 



ABO. — HELSIXGFORS. 455 

N. of til is catliedral is St. Erics Spring, said to have 
burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred. 
The Ch. of the Tritiity has many handsome monuments. 
The Universiti/ was founded 'in 1477. Many of its 
€difices are very striking in architecture. The library 
building is especially tine. The Library contains 200,000 
vols., and 7,000 MSS. Here is the famous transla- 
tion of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, dating 
from the second half of the 4th century. The House of 
Limceus is still shown in Upsala, In the cemetery see 
monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,500 stu- 
dents at the University. Numerous charming excur- 
slons in the neighborhood. A pretty excursion is from 
Upsala to Qefle by rail in 3i hrs. (6 k. 85 5., 
4 k. 60 5.), On the way you may see the Castle, 
which was fortified by Gustavus Vasa, and where 
Eric XIV. was imprisoned during his insanity. 

We will not attempt to give other excursions in 
Sweden, but will recommend the tourist next to pro- 
ceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg. 

RUSSIA. 

Steamers sail daily in summer from the port of Stock- 
holm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stopping at Abo, 
the old capital of Pinland, taken from the Swedes in 
1809 by the Russians ; Helsingfors, one of the strong- 
est of naturally fortified harbors ; and Wyhorg, taken 
from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The 
beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the 
steamer threads its way renders the journey a constant 
pleasure. The Ahland Islands are about 300 in number. 
Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland, 
the dome of St. Isaac's Ch. in St. Petersburg is dis- 
tinctly visible On the Way up, the steamer passes 



456 ST. pei:ersburg. 

Cronstadt, tlie Hussian Empire's chief naval station. 
It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the solid 
rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were 
begun in 1703 by Peter the Great, and have been, 
greatly strengtliened since. The approaching seaward 
is secured by the erection of batteries and by the sink- 
ing of ships. An excursion can be made in one day 
from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, Oranienbaum, Feter- 
hof, Strelna, and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Oranien-: 
baum is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown 
from Mentchikoff's estate. It commands a magnificent 
view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 1720 by Leblond, 
under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumer- 
able articles of vertu, tapestries, marbles, porcelains, 
malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures 
of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from 50 
Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain 
called the Samson. There are two small palaces near 
here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in 
that of Mont Plaisir he died. The Hermitage, Alex- 
andra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterhof, and 
Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Constantine, 
are in this neighborhood. 

St. Petersburg {Hotel d' Angleterre ; Be Russie ; 
DemoutTis ; Be France ; Bellevue') is the capital of the 
Russian Empire, and as the headquarters of the official 
world and the centre of Russian society must always 
possess a certain interest for the traveller (900,000 
inhab.). The common supposition that it is not wise to 
visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake. 
The Russian summer climate is extremely soft and beau- 
tiful, and the heat is never so intense as in some parts 
of North America. Of course, the social world is not so 
gay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but 
2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg wiU hardly care about this. 



ST. PETERSBURG. 457' 

The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703, 
and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice 
aforethought ; for the energetic monarch set it down 
among the marshes through which the river Neva wan- 
ders towards the sea. On the islands in the channels- 
of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built. 
The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public- 
buildings, is on the mainland, on the S. bank of th& 
Neva, St. Petersburg is in many respects a magnificent 
city, although the contrasts between squalor and great 
splendor are sometimes too sharp to permit of an agree- 
able impression. When the town was building, under 
Peter the Great, 40,000 or 50,000 peasants were em- 
ployed for years in filling up the marshes. It was the 
Empress Catherine who built the splendid granite quay 
along the Neva's 1. bank. The river has overflowed many 
times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the^ 
early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The or- 
dinary tourist will find that the difficulties concerning 
passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly" 
exaggerated, and if he is not a Nihibst he will not be 
much troubled. A passport is, however, exacted on en- 
tering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel- 
proprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on 
leaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, 
the Admiralty being the principal one. From the Ad- 
miralty three great streets branch off. They are caUed- 
the Vosnessensky ; the Gorokhovaia, ending at the Champsh 
de Mars ; and the famous Nevsky Prospect, where are 
the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs. and 
public buildings. 

The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky' 
Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated io- 
1811, is the metropolitan church of St. Petersburg. It 
is a copy of St. Peter's at Rome, and takes its name 



458 ST. PETERSF.(JRG. 

from an irnat^e of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos- 
cow ill 1579. See llie beautiful Corintliiaii colonnade, 
with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb ; 
shrine of chased silver, tiie giit of Cossacks wlio served 
in wars of 1813-14 ; images before which lamps are al- 
ways kept burning ; flags, arms, and standards, taken in 
battle ; bronze statues of KutusoiF and Barclay de Tolly 
in front of the ch. No organ or instrument is used iu 
the service, but great pains are taken to secure good 
voices. Remark the deep bass intonation. The For- 
tress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul contains 
in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia 
since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II. 
(buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice 
is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mint. 
The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hun- 
dreds of flags are suspended along the walls. 

The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Peters- 
burg, is ontlie site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the 
<jreat. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles. 
The interior is chiefly striking from its splendid propor- 
tions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white 
marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Pine 
view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admis- 
sion by tickets procured at entrance of Council of State), 
built in 1754, in Catherine's reign, stands on the r. bank 
^of the Neva. This is the imperial city residence, and this 
building was the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which 
finally resulted in the death of Alexander 11. in 1881. 
The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly 
ornamented with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and pre- 
■cious stones. Grand festival here on New Year's Day 
by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- 
dor's Staircase on the Neva ; also the magnificent flight 
of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments. 



ST. PETERSBURG. 45^ 

The Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White 
Room, St. George's Hall, the Field Marshal's Galleri/y 
the Alexander Hall, the Halls of Battles (in which are 
paintings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber, the- 
Empress's Winter Garden, and the Romanoff Gallery 
are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the 
latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a 
tablet on which are the rules drawn up by the Empress 
Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at the Her- 
mitage. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and 
sceptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats) . See 
also room in which Emperor Nicholas died. _ The Her- 
milage (oT^en daily except Eri. ; closed in Aug.), close to- 
the Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, 
and rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum containa- 
1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some 
by Murillo, Velasquez, Uubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, 
and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of en- 
graved stones, and designs by masters. 

The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, th& 
Michael and the Marble Palaces are not impressive 
buildings. One or two of them are occasionally open to 
visitors. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with a fagader 
half a mile long. Near it are the great dockyards, the 
headquarters of the army, and the War Office. The 
Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many 
relics of the famous monarch, is near the citadel. 

The Imperial Library, containing 400,000 vols., is 
near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are 
those of the Academy of Science, the Hermitage, and 
the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. This monastery is- 
one of the most celebrated in Russia. It was founded' 
by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great, 
Tfho conquered the Swedes and the Livonians. The 
museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portioik 



460 MOSCOW 

of the superb building near the Admiralty. The 
Asiatic Iluseum is rich in Eastern antiquities. The 
JRomanoff Museum, that attached to the Mining 
School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian 
Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the 
government expense, are all of large size. The 
BolsJcoy, the Alexandra, and the French are the 

Principal ones. The opera in St. Petersburg is noted, 
'he monuments are nearly all good. Those most 
worthy of attention are the Equestrian Statue of 
Peter the Great, with a prancing horse balanced on 
its hind legs, by F.ilconet; and the column of 
Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft. high, 
weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace. 
The Summer Gardens, 1 M. long and ^ mile wide, 
beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which 
Peter the Great occasionally lived. The country 
around St. Petersburg is very uninteresting. 

It is 401^ M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow. The 
rly. carriages are much like those of America in model. 
The stations are all comfortable, refreshment saloons 
excellent and fares reasonable. First-class express 
to Moscow, 19 roubles; second, 13 roubles. The 
principal town on the way is Tver, at the confluence 
of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity 
Church. Here steamer can be taken to Nijni- 
Novgorod, and thence to AstraJcan, 

Moscow {Slavianshi Bazaar; Dussaux : Chev- 
rier; U Angleterre), or Holy Moscow, as the Russians 
call it, the ancient capital of Russia, formerly the 
residence of the Emperors, is situated on the 
Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great 
fire in 1812, it was the most irregularly built town 
in Europe, and to-day it remains original and 
picturesque in a striking degree. A good view may 
be had from the Sparrow Hills, on the S. side. In 
the centre of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 3 M. 



MOSCOW. 461 

in circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenals, and 
museums. Here the Tartar architecture predominates. 
An excellent preparation for visiting the Kremlin is the 
j)erusalof Theophile Gautier's lively and sparkhng bool^^ 
•on a " Winter in Russia. " The Redeemer s Gate and the 
Gate of St. Nicholas diVQ objects of great veneration among 
Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on pass- 
ing through the Redeemer's Gate. The present Krem^ 
lin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been de- 
stroyed in 1812. Most of tiie ancient palaces were of 
wood. To Nicholas I. the erection of the present one 
is due. The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alex- 
ander Nevsky, and Sts. Andretv and Catherine, and the 
Banqueting Hall, as well as the Terem, which contains 
a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the 
terrace of which Napoleon I. looked down upon Mos- 
€ow when he came there as conqueror, are among the 
Kremlin's chief marvels. In the little Ch. of the Re- 
deemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathedral 
Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, founded in 
1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Many sacred treasures here. 
In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The 
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael contains many 
tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is 
where the czars are baptized. It is rich with rehcs. 
The jewels in all Russian chs. are worth studying. The 
House of the Synod, the Treasury (open Mon. and Thur., 
permit at the chamberlain's office), and the Arsenal will 
furnish plenty of amusement for a day. The Tower of 
Ivan Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 
ft. high, contains 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 
^4 tons. When all these bells are rung together at 
Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot of this tower 
is the vast Tsar Kolokol, or Monarch of Bells It once 
hung in a tower (burned in 1737) ; weighs 444,000 
lbs. ; and is 20 ft. hiffh and fiO ft. round. The value of 



462 NUNI-NOVGOROD. — ODESSA. 

the metal in the bell is nearly $2,000,000. Outside the 
Kremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded by 
Helena. Here are the Cathedral of St. Basil, built in 
1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace, the Iberian 
Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great 
Riding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in 
Russia, except that of Nijni-Novgorod. The pigeon 
being looked upon as sacred by the Russians, thousands 
of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow. 
S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial 
^'amily. 

It is 271f M. from Moscow to Nijui-Novgorod. 
Tourists pressed for time can take night train there ; 
spend the day at Nijni ; and return the next night (fares, 
12 roubles, 3 c. ; 9 roubles, 22 c ). 

Nijni-Novgorod (^De Russie, Egoroff's), a city of 
75,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held an- 
nually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 peo- 
ple. Here the inhabitants of the barbaric East come 
into close contact with the Western merchants and vis- 
itors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and 
the Yolga. The Kremlin is on a bank overhanging the 
Yolga. The transactions at the fair amount annually 
to $80,000,000. 

From Moscow to Odessa (time, 33^ hrs.; fare, 40 rou- 
bles, 63 c.) the route passes through Karhoff, Foltava, 
and Bait a. 

Odessa {Be Londres ; Be St. Pefersbourg) was 
founded in Catherine ll.'s reign. It is an important 
commercial port, with 250,000 inhab. ; but there is 
little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral, a 
small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the 
University. Steamers leave Odessa twice a week for 
the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field of tlie Cri- 
mean war may easily be visited There is also steam 
rommunication witli Constantinople. 



TABLB OF CLIMATIC HEALTH BISiORTS, MIN- 
ERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, A^D HYDRO- 
PATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Times and railway fares are calculat'i i from Paris, 

Aix-la-Chapelle (10 hrs. from Paris ; fare, 48 fr.).— 
Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to ]20° 1. For skin dis- 
eases, rheumatism, chronic diseases of the nervous centres, 
neuralgias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies. 

Aix-les-Bains (14^ hrs. ; 71 fr. GO c). — Sulphurous 
hot springs, 112° to 114° F. Have a world-wide reputa- 
tion in cases of rheumatism and gout; also chronic catarrh; 
of the neck of "the womb, arnenorrhoea, metritis, syphilis,, 
bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pharyui(,itis, wounda 
by fire-arms. April to Nov., and all the year. 

Am^lie-les-Baiiis (24^ hrs.; 120i fr.). --- Sulphurous 
sodaic waters, 71° to 172° F., and winter station. Herpetic 
diathesis, and catarrhal affections. All the year. 

Arcachon (10 hrs. ; 78 fr. 70 c). — V/inter station, 
and sea baths. For invalids requiring a sedalive air ; foi? 
delicate, lymphatic, and ansemic persons ; norvous complaints j 
«hest and lung affections ; scrofula ; gout. Winter season^ 
ixom Nov. till June ; summer, from May tiU Oct. 

Aulus (241 hrs.; 119 fr.). — Alkaline waters, 48° Bv 
Purgative, laxative, and diuretic action^ according to dose,, 
in diseases of the liver, in arthritic a^ections, and in syphilis,. 
^ Baden (27 hrs.,; 152| fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 82° to- 
^'5° F. For rheumatism, gout, anaemia, and scrofula (espe. 
4Ually of a chronic character). May to Oct., and all the year. 

Baden-Baden (16 hrs. , 63 fr.). — Alkaline chlorid® 
^f sodium waters, 110° to 150° F. Uric acid diathesis, gout, 
and kindred complaints ; ailments dependent on malaria,, 
ai^d certain ski a diseases ; chronic rheumatism ; wounds, frac- 
tures oi" the bones, scrofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certaiu- 
JjiV.aey affections, anremia. May to Oct. and all the year. 
463 



464 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

Bagn^res-de-Bigorre (22 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Saline, 
«ulpliui-ous, ferruginous, and arsenical waters, 72° to 120° F. 
For tuberculosis, affections of the respiratory organs, intes-. 
tines, and urinary system, ansemia, and female disorders. 
June to Sept., baths; Nov. to May, winter station. 

Bagnoles (19 hrs. ; 67 fr. 65 c). — Saline, sulphurous, 
lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66° F. For diseases of 
the digestive organs, skin, rheumatism, and scrofula, chlor- 
osis, congestion of the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c. 

Bareges (2H hrs. ; 113 fr.). — Alkali-saline-sulphurous 
waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bjnes. 
herpes and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15. 

Biarritz (19i hrs.; 96 fr. 80 c). — Sea-bathing and 
winter station. For chlorosis, ansemia, chest and lung com- 
plaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May. 

Bourbon-rArchambault (6| hrs. ; 40 fr. 75 c). — 
Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F. ; and bicarboivte 
fen-uginous magnesiau waters, 120° to 160° F., highly gase- 
ous. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, nervous affections. 

Bourboule (La) (13| hrs.; 60 fr.). — Effervescent 
saline arsenical waters (28 milligr. arseniate of soda per 
litre), 140° F. For ansemia, lymphatism, general debility, 
affections of the skin and respiratory organs, rheumatism, 
and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30. 

Cannes (20| hrs.; 130 fr.). — Winter station of fii-sl 
importance; climate tonic and stimulating near the sea; 
sedative towards Le Cannet. Sea baths in spring; season, 
Oct. to May. For nervons debility, ansemia, phthisis, laryn- 
gitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes. 

Carlsbrunn. — Highly effervescing, ferruginous manga- 
nese waters, 45° F. ; climatic station. For debility of the 
male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections 
of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept. 

Castellamare di Stabia (50i hrs.; 248 fr.). — Sea 
fcaths ; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chaly. 
ibeate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleea, 
affections of the mesenteric glands, biliary and ^'^sical calc «*, 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. iQ5 

jauudice, dropsy, hemorrlioids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes, 
catarrh of the digestive organs, hypochondriasis, urinary cal- 
culi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the 
uterus, leucorrhcea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing. May to 
Oct. ; winter season, Oct. to April. 

Cauterets (2U hrs. ; 111 fr. 90 c). — Sulphate of 
soda springs, 55° to 145*^ P. For catarrh of the respiratory 
organs, skin diseases, uterine aifections, scrofula. 

Contrexeville ^10 hrs.; 5li fr.). — Effervescent alka- 
line, slightly feri'uginous waters, 55° F, Especially for, 
gravel, biliai-y and vesical calculi, and catarrh, diabetes, gout, 
and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary system, affec- 
tions of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept. 

Dax (15 hrs. ; 90 fr. 80 c). — • Hyperthermal mixed sul- 
phurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For articular, muscular, 
or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses. 

Dieppe (4 hrs. ; 20 fr. 65 c). — Much -frequented sea- 
bathing and summer resort. 

Divonne-les-Bains (15i hrs. ; 81 fr.). — Cold water 
springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. For chronic rheu- 
matic arthritis, lumbago, pleuro-dynia, gout, sciatica, neu- 
ralgia, hypochondria, neuroses, gastralgia, bronchial catarrh, 
dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorrhoids, paraly- 
sis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female 
^'sTders. 

Eaux-Bonnes (18 hrs. ; 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline 
ar>d ..Ikaline waters, 90° F. For angina pectoris, and laryn- 
gitis, bronchitis, and chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic plea- 
ritis, anaemia, lymphatism, and scrofida. June to Sept. 

Ems (16i hrs. ; 71 fr. 15 c). — Saline alkaline and 8a« 
liue earthy, 65° to 110° F. These waters act on the Inngs 
and chest, and on nervous diseases. May to Oct. 

Enghien (20 min. ; 1 fr. 35 c). — Cold sulphurous and 
lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs, 
herpes, and rheumatism. 

Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min. ; 28 fr.). — A now much-fre- 
jueiifed resort for sea-bathing in summer. 



466 '' CLIMATIC HEALTH EESORTS, 

Evian-les-Bains (13 hrs. ; 82 fr. 80 c). —Alkaline 
waters, and cJimatic ah' station. For aiFectious of tlie uri- 
nary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus. 

Geneva (14 hrs. ; 77 fi*.). — Milk cure. Bathers from 
Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure. 

Gorbersdorf (39 hrs. ; 167 a ^r.). — Noted for its moun- 
fcaiu-air cure, in affections of the respiratory oigans. Anse- 
mia and chlorosis are also treated. 

Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate; winter station; 
'Oct. to .Tune. Chest and lung complaints, pharyngitis, 
nervous affections, antemia, chlorosis. 

Hombmrg-les-Bains (1 8 hrs. 40 min. ; 86 fr. 69 c), 
— Saline, ferruginous, and ac^-^ulous waters. For dyspepsia, 
scrofula, and ansemia. 

Hy^res (20 hrs.; 117 fr.)- — Winter season, Nov. ti 
June ; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases of the larynx 
chest, and lungs, scrofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism. 

luterlaken (18 hrs. ; 78 fr. 65 c). • — Climatic statioa 
in summer, visited for its beautiful environs. Whey cure. 

Ischia (501 hrs. ; 2885 fr.). — Alkali-saline waters, 
145^ F. For uterine affections, rheuniatisra, diseases of the 
bones, sores, gout, and paralysis. Spring and autumn. 

Ischl (231 hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c). — A climatic summer 
station ; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters ; 
whey cure ; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous 
baths ; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths ; inhala- 
tion. Recommended for nervous affections. 

Karlsbad (32 hrs.; 137 fr.). — Polymetallic waters, 
125° to 170° F. For constipation, liver and bilious com- 
plaints, plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, &c. 

Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 min. ; 106 fr.). — Cold saline 
■waters, strongly mineralized ; tonic and excitant. Especially 
suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions. 

Kreuznach (13^ hrs. ; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodurated sa- 
line waters. F orscrofulous affections, diseases of the ears, 
respiratory organs, bones, and joints, all female and ski* | 
diseases, and in chronic affections j:enerally. May to Oct. 



MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 467 

Lausanne (15| hrs. ; 64 fr. 20 c). — Climatic station 
fn summer and autumn ; bracing air and grape cure. 

Loeclie-les-Bains (30 hrs. ; ]00 fr.). — Various 
springs ; hot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. For struma, 
herpes, and skin diseases, scrofula, rheumatism, chronic 
bronchitis, inveterate syphilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30. 

Luchon (19i hrs. ;' 103| fr.). — Upwards of lifty differ- 
ent springs, mineralized by hydro-sulphuric acid; also ferru- 
ginousand alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bionchial 
and skin diseases, and chronic sores. June to Sept. 

Luxeuil (11 1- hrs. ; 60 fr.). — -Saline, ferruginous, and 
magnesiau waters ; eleven springs, 70° to 125° F. They 
are first excitant, then sedative ; and good in cases of neural- 
gia, rheumatism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c. 

Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bordeaux, or Lis- 
bon; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended 
for pulmonary complaints ; climate delightful ; no winter. 

Mentone (24i hrs.; 139 fr.). —Winter station of first 
importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases 
and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter 
season, November to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct. 

Monaco (24^ hrs.; 138 fr.). — Monte Carlo is the 
favorite winter resort of pleasure-seekers. One of the most 
sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea baths ; May to Oct. 

Mont-Dore(ll hrs.; 64i fr.). — Bicarbonate, arsen- 
ical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F. 
For all forms of chest diseases and of the respiratory tract ; 
ophthalmia, rheumatic and nervous affections, disorders of 
the uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1. 

Naples (48 hrs. ; 223 fr. 85 c). — The great variety of 
mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered 
this delightful city and its environs the most frequented bath- 
ing station in Italy. Sea baths. 

Nice (22 hrs.;* 134 fr. 20 c.). — Winter station of first 
importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and 
respiratory organs : affections of the larynx,, liver complaints, 
disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, rheumatism. 



468 CLIMATIC HEALTH EESORTS, 

paralysis, debility. "Winter season, Nov. to June ; sea-bathing 
season, May to Oct. ; principal season, Jan. to March. 

Ostend (14 hrs. ; 38 fr. 40 c.). — Sea baths. Sandy- 
beach and bracing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. 1. 

Palermo (66i hrs. ; 239i fr.). —Winter station; sea 
baths. Season, Nov. to April ; bathing season. May to Oct. 

Pau (17i hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first im- 
portance. Por chest complaints, consumption (inflammatory 
action and blood-spitting), asthma, bronchitis, rheumatism, 
neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31. 

Pierrefonds (2| hrs. ; 12 fr.). — One cold sulphate of 
lime spring ; one ferruginous and arsenical. Pulmonary catarrh. 

Plombi^res (11 hrs.;' 45 fr.). — The springs range 
from 30° to 175° F. For rheumatism, paralysis, herpei, 
nervous debility, hysteria. 

Pougues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c.). — Mixed bicarbonate 
ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs. 

Preste (La) (23f hrs.; 145 f.). — Very efficacious wa- 
ters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105'' F. 

Pullna. — No treatment at Plillna itself; the waters are 
exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and reme- 
dies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation, 
congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorders, 
obesity, diseases of the eye, headache, and gastritis. 

Pyrmont (18 hrs. ; 84 fr-. 30 c.). — Chalybeate springs 
of importance and much renown ; effervescent saline waters, 
brine baths, inhalations. For female complaints, especially 
anaemia, chlorosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal catarrhs, 
obesity, affections of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1. 

Recoaro (34f hrs.; 139f fr.). — Alkaline, acidulated 
ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debil- 
ity, female diseases, obesity, ansemia, chlorosis, gravel and 
vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- 
orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. May to Sept. 

Rome (49i hrs.; 201 fr. 90 c). — Wiuter station of | 
first importance. Foi debility and scrofala in children, i 
ehronic catarrh of ei* bronchi, emphysema. The climate is : 



MINERAL WATEllS, SEA BATHS, ETC. 4l39 

sedative to tlie nerves and respiratory organs ; but patients 
should fii'st consult their doetor. Oct. to May. 

Rorscliach, — Climatifi station in summer; baths iu 
the lake ; Turkish baths , very pure aud cquabj'j atui;)sphere. 

Royat (9^ hrs. ; 51J fr.)'. — Four springs : mixed alka- 
line, gaseous, ferruginous, and slightly arsjnir-al and lithic 
waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, aufcmia, 
chlorosis, catarrhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin dis- 
eases dependent on a gouty diathesis. 

St. Galmier. — Alkaline table waters, used in France. 

St, Moritz (31 hrs. ; 130 IV. GO c). —Climatic moun- 
tain-air station. Two ferruginous springs, very cold and 
very effervescius:. For phthisis. 

_ St. Raphael (19| hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.). — Winter sta- 
tioii and sea baths; summer, jMay 1 to Nov, 1; winter, 
Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofu'a, 
lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes, 
rheumatism, gout, emphysema, antcma, and chlorosis. 

San Remo. — "Winter station of first importance; la- 
tciut scrofula, chronic bronchial, stomachic, and intestinal 
catarrh, emphysema, pharyngitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exu- 
dations, incipient phthisis, ]-heuniatism, Bright's disease, 
diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to jMay. 

Saxon (fs hrs.; 73 fr. 55 c). — Bro'mo-ioduratcd sa- 
line waters, 60° F. For syphilis, sci-ofuli, ami gout. 

Scheveningen (loThrs. ; 07 i'v. 70 c.).'— Very well 
frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; bea'^-h ot fine sands. 

Schinznach (17 hrs.; 72 fr.). — Sulphurous waters, 
rich in sulphui'etted hydrogen and carljn'iic acid, also in 
chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 95° F. For chronic 
skill diseases, eczema, acne, psoriasis, &e., S'vrofula, chronic 
catarrh, bronchitis, em])hysema, asthma, rheumatism, gout, 
syphilis, niercurialism ; May to Oct. 

Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 min. ; 81f fr.). — Nine 
springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual difficulties in delicate 
M^omen ; general debility in children, women, and ged per- 
sons ; gout, partial paralysis. May 1 to Oct. 1. 

Sohwalbach. /20 hrs.; iiS fr. 5 c.).— Chal^ neate wa- 



410 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS, 

ters. For all female complaints ; anaemia, clilorosis, nervous 
affections, debility of muscles and mucous membranes, espe- 
cially catarrhal affections of the genital organs. May to Oct. 

Spa (8| lirs. ; 44f fr.). — Highly effervescent ferrugi- 
nous and acidulous waters. For anaemia, chlorosis, female 
complaints, hysteria, gastralgia, sterility, diflicult menstrua- 
tion, liver complaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucons 
catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct. 

Spezzia (28 hrs. ; 130 fr. 40 c.).— Winter air-cure 
and summer sea-bathing resort. 

Teplitz-Schonau (32 hrs. ; 145| fr.). — Alkali-saline 
waters, 95° to 125° F. For i-heumalism, gout, neuralgia, 
paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofuloiis tumors and 
sores, fractures, anchylosis, &c. May to Nov. 

Trouville (6 hrs.; 28 fr. 65 *c.). — Fashionable and 
much -frequented summer station; sea baths, sandy beach. 

Ullage (14f hrs, ; 79 fr.). — Saline sulphurous waters, 
81" F. For scrofula, chronic affections of the skin, rheuma- 
tism, nervous affections, diseases of the eyelids, granular 
pharyngitis, &c. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15. 

Valencia. — Spanish winter resort ; sea baths, sandy beach. 

Vals (ITa hrs. ; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light, 
mediimi, and strong ; principally used as table waters. For 
gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen. 

Venice (36 hrs. ; 154 fr.). — Sea baths and winter sta- 
tion ; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau. 

Vevey (16| hrs.; 86^ fr.). — Air-cure station, much 
frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature. 

Vichy (S^ hrs. ; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline 
springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders, 
uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes. 

Voslau (27f hrs. ; 156 fr. 95 c.).-- A favorite climatic 
resort of the Viennese. May 16 to Sept. 30 ; grape cure, 
Sept. to Oct. 

Wiesbaden (15 hrs. ; 86 fr. 45 c). — The waters are 
excitant, resolvent, reconstituent, and laxative, 30° to 165° F. 
For scrofala, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion. 

Zurich. (18 hrs. ; 85 fr. 10 c.). — Earthy alkaline waters. 



DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF THE 
UNITED STATES 





IN THE 


PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN" COUNTRIES. 




Austria= Hungary 


Vienna 


Minister, Bellamy Storer. 


(( 


. Con.- Gen., C. B. Hurst. 


Pesth ! 


. Vice- Consul, F. D. Chester. 


Prague 


. Consul, Ethelbert Watts. 


Trieste . 


. " F. W. Hossfeld. 


Fiume 


. Agent, Paul J. Tomanoczy. 




Belgium 


Brussels , 


Minister, Henry L. Wilson. 


ii 


. Con.- Gen., 0. W. Roosevelt. 


Antwerp . 


. " G. F. Lincoln. 


Charleroi . 


. Agent, A. H. Michaelson. 


Ghent 


. Consul, F. R. Mowrer. 


Liege 


. '' Alfred A. Winslow. 


Verviers , 


. Agent, Henry Dodt. 



Denmark 

Copenhagen , Minister, Thomas J. O'Brien, 
" . . Consul, J. C. Freeman. 

" . Vice-Consul, J. F. Erichsen, 



472 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS 



France 

ROBT. S. McCORMICK. 

Henry Vignaud. 
Frank H. Mason. 

D. S. Kidder. 
James B. Milner. 
Benj. A. Courcelle, 
A. W. Tourgee. 
William Hale. 
Alphonse Ganlia, 

A. Pitel. 

H. J. E. Hainneville, 
Elise Jouard. 
Walter T. Griffin. 
J. C. Covert. 

E. P. Skinner. 

B. A. Jouve. 
B. H. Ridgely. 
H. S. Van Buren. 
J. B. Cognet. 
Achille Isnard. 
Emile de Loth. 
W. A. Prickett. 
Thorn well Haynes. 
RaouUe Bourgeois. 

Germany 

Berlin , Ambassador, Charlemagne Tower, 
** , Sec, of Embassy, H. Percival Dodge. 

*' . Consul-General, A. H. Thackara. 

Aix-la-Chapelle . Consul, F. M. Brundage. 

H. W. Diederich. 



Paris . 


Ambassador, 


i( 


, Sec. of Embassy, 


a 


, Consul-General, 


Algiers 
Calais 


, Consul, 


(< 


Oran. 


. Agent, 


Bordeaux 


• . Consul, 


Boulogne 


. Agent, 


Havre 


. Consul, 


Brest 


. Agent, 


Cherbourg 


a 


Cognac 


a 


Limoges 


. Com. Agent, 


Lyons 


, . Consul, 


Marseilles 


, Consul-General, 


Toulon 


, . , Agent, 


Nantes 


. Consul, 


Nice . 


K 


Cannes 


, . Agent, 


Mentone 


(( 


Monaco 


<( 


Rheims 


. Consul, 


Rouen 


(( 


Dieppe 


. Agent, 



Bremen 
Brunswick 
Cologne 
Crefeld . 
Dresden 



T. J. Albert. 

C. E. Barnes. 

T. R. Wallace. 

T, St. John Gaffney. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



473^ 



Diisseldorf 
Frankfort . 
Hamburg . 
Leipsic 
Mannheim 
Mayence . 
Munich 
Nuremberg 
Stuttgart . 
Weimar , 



London 



. Consul, Peter Lieber. 
Consul-General, R. Guenther. 
, Consul, Hugh Pitcairn. 

B. H. Warner, Jr. 
. " H. W. Harris. 
" W. Schumann. 
Consul-Oeneral, J. H. Worman. 
. Cotisul, Geo. E. Baldwin. 
" E. H. Ozmun. 
" Clarence R. Slocum. 



Great Britain 



Liverpool . 
Belfast 
Birmingham 
Kidderminster 
Wolverhampton 
Bradford 
Bristol 
Cardiff 
Cork- 
Dublin 
Dundee 
Falmouth 
Gibraltar 
Glasgow 
Hull 
Leeds 
Malta 
Manchester 
Newcastle 
Nottingham 
Plymouth 
Sheffield 
Southampton 



Ambassador, 
Con. -(/en.. 
Consul, 



Agent, 
Consul, 



Whitelaw Reid. 
Robert J. Wynne. 
James Boyle. 
W. W. Trouville. 
Marshall Halstead. 
James Morton. 
John Neve. 
Erastus S. Day. 
Lorin A. Lathrop.- 
D. T. Phillips. 
Daniel Swiney. 
R. Waterman. 
J. C. Higgins. 
Howard Fox. 
R. L. Sprague. 
S. M. Taylor. 
W. P. Smyth. 
L. Dexter. 
J. H. Grout, Jr. 
William F. Grinnell*- 
H. W. Metcalf. 
F. W. Mahin. 
J. G. Stephens. 
Church Howe. 
J. E. Hopley. 



474 DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS 



Greece 



Athens 


Minister, John B. Jackson. 


<' t 


. Consul, D. li. McGinley. 


Piraeus 


. Agent, M. T. Sourmely. 




Italy 


Home 


Amhassador, Henry White. 


" . Sec. of Embassy, L. M. Iddings. 


" . Consul-General, Hector de Castro. 


Castellamare 


Comm. Agent, C. S. Crowinshield. 


Civita Vecchia 


. 


Agent, James B. Ingle. 


Florence . 


, 


Consul, E. C. Cramer. 


Genoa 


. 


" Richmond Pearson. 


Leghorn , 


, 


J.A.Smith. 


Messina 


. 


" Chas. M. Caughy. 


Milan 




' ' William Jarvis. 


Naples 


, 


" A. H. Byington. 


Palermo . 


, 


" James Johnston. 


Venice 


. 


" Henry A. Johnston, 




Holland 


The Hague 
Amsterdam 


Minister, David J. Hill. 


. Co7isul, F. D. Hill. 


Rotterdam 


. '' S. Listoe. 


Flushing . 


. Agent, P. F. Auer. 




Portugal 


Lisbon 


Minister, Francis B. Loomis. 


Oporto 


. Agent, William Sture. 




Roumania 


(Resident, Athens) Minister, John W. Riddle. 


Bucharest V. 


-Con. -General, W. a. Boxshall. 



Russia 

St. Petersburg . Minister, G. V. L. Meyer 
" Sec. of Legation, John W. Riddle. 
" Consul- Gejieral, W. R. Hollo way. 



OF THE UNITED STATES. 



475 



Moscow , 
Helsingfors 
Odessa 
Cronstadt 
Warsaw , 



Madrid . 

Alicante 

Barcelona 

Cadiz 

Malaga 

Valencia 



Stockholm 

a 

Christiania 

Bergen 

Gothenberg 



Berne 
Basle 
Geneva 
Zurich 



Constantinople 



. Consul, Samuel Smith. 
. Vice- Consul, Victor Ek. t 

. Consul, Thos. E. Heenan. 

. Agent, Peter Wigins. 
, Vice- Consul, B. Horodynskt. 

Spain 

. Minister, William M. Collier. 
. Vice-Consul, H. W. Carey. 
Consul- General, Julius G. Lay. 
. Consul, J. H. Carroll, 
. " D. R. Burch. 
" R. M. Bartleman. 

Sweden and Norway 

Minister, Charles M Graves, 
Gonsul-General, E. L. Adams. 
" H. Bordewich. 

. . Consul, V. E. Nelson. 
. " R. S. S. Bergh. 

Switzerland 

Minister^ Brutus J. Clay. 

• . Consul, George Gilford. 

• , *' Ho L. "Washington, 
, . " A, Lieberknecht. 

Turkey 

Minister, J, G. A. Leishman. 

• iSec.o/Xe^., Spencer F.Eddy, 
tConsul-Gen.f C. M. Dickinson, 



A SHORT VOCABULARY 
IN ENGLISH, FRENCH 



One. 

Two. 

Three. 

four. 

Five. 

•Six. 

Seven. 

Ei^hfc. 

Nine. 

Ten. 

Eleven. 

Twelve. 

Thirteen. 

Fourteen. 

Fifteen. 

Sixteen. 

Seventeen, 

Eighteen. 

Nineteen. 

Twenty. 

Twenty-one. 

Twenty-two. 

Twenty-three, etc. 

Thirty. 

Tliirty-one. 

Thirty-two, etc. 

Forty. 

Fifty. 

Sixty. 

Seventy. 



Un. 

Deux. 

Trois. 

Quatrs. 

Cinq. 

Six. 

Sept. 

Huit, 

Nen£ 

Dix. 

Onze. 

Douze. 

Treize. 

Quatorze. 

Quinze. 

Seize. 

Dix-sept. 

Dix-huit. 

Dix-neuf. 

Vingt. 

Vingt-et-un. 

Viugt-deux. 

Vingt-trois, etc 

Trenfce. 

Trente-et-un. 

Trehte-deux, etO. 

Quarante. 

Cinquante. 

Soixante. 

Soixante-dix. 



or WORDS AND PHRASES 
GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 



Eins 


Uno. 


Zwei. 


Due. 


Drei. 


Tre. 


Yier. 


Quattra 


Eiiuf. 


Cinque. 


Sechs. 


Sei. 


Siebea. 


Sette. 


Acht. 


Otto. 


Neun. 


Nove. 


Zehii. 


Dieci. ^ 


Elf. 


IJndici. 


Zwolf. 


Dodici. 


Dreizehn. 


Tredici. 


Tierzehn. 


QuattordicL 


Eiinfzehn. 


Quindici. 


Sechzelm. 


Sedici. 


Siebzehn. 


Diecisette; diciasettc 


Acbtzehn. 


Dieciotto; diciotto. 


Neunzehn. 


Diecinove; diciannoYO. 


Zwanzig. 

Ein und zwanzig. 


Venti. 


Vent' uno. 


Zwei und zwanzig. 


Venti due. 


Drei und zwanzig, etc. 


Venti tre, etc. 


Dreissig. 

Ein una dreissig. 


Trenta. 


Trent' uno. 


Zwei und dreissig, etc. 


Trenta due, eta 


Vierzig. 


Quaranta. 


Fiinfzig. 


Cinquanta. 


Sechzig. 


Sessanta. 


8iebzig. 


Settanta. 



478 WORDS AND PHKaSES IN ENGLISH^ 



Eighty. 

Ninety 

A hundred. 

Two hundred, etc. 

A thousand. 

Eleven hundred. 

Twelve hundred. 

Two thousand, etc. 

A million. 

The first. 

The second. 

The third. 

The fourth. 

The fifth. 

The sixth. 

The seventh. 

The eighth. 

The ninth. 

The tenth. 

The eleventh. 

The last. 

The l&st but o&Ci 

Once. 

Twice. 

The half.. 

The third. 

The fourth. 

The fifth. 

The sixth, etc. 

A. river. 

A fountain, 

A waterfaUr 

The gate. 

An hour. 

Half an hour. 



Quatre-vingt, 
Qaatre-vingt-dii. 
Cent. 

Deux cents, etft. 
Mille. 

Onze cents. 
Douze cents. 
Deux mille, etft 
Un million. 
Le premier. 
Le second. 
Lb troisieme. 
Le quatrieme. 
Le cinquieme. 
Le sixieme. 
Le septieme. 
Le huitierae. 
Le neuvieme. 
Le dixieme. 
Le onzieme. 
Le dernier. 
L'avant-demier. 
Une fois. 
Deux fois. 
La moitie. Deua* 
Le tiers. 
Le quart. 
Le cinquieme. 
Le sixieme, etc. 
Une riviere. 
Une fontaine. 
Une cascade. 
La porte. 
Une heure. 
line demi-beurR 



FKENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 47^ 



Achtzi^. 
Neunzig. 
Hundert. 
Zweihundert, etc 
Tausend. 
Mhundert. 
Zwolf hundert. 
Zwei Tausend, etc. 
Eine Million. 
Der Erste. 
Der Zweite. 
Der Dritte. 
Der Vierte. 
Der Eiinfte. 
Der Sechste. 
Der Siebente, 
Der Achte. 
Der Neunte. 
Der Zehnte. 
Der Elfte. 
Der Letzte. 
Der Vorletzte. 
Einmal. 
Zweimal. 

Die Halfte. Halb. 
Das Drittel. 
Das Viertel. 
Das Eiinftel. 
Das Sechstel, etc. 
Eiii Eluss. 
Ein Brunnen. 
Ein WasserfalL 
Das Thor. 
Eine Stunde. 
"^ne Lalbe Stunde. 



Ottanta. 

Novanta. 

Cento. 

Duecento ; dugento, et&i 

MiHe. 

Mille cento. 

Mille dugento. 

Due mila, etc. 

Un milione. 

II primo. 

II seconder 

II terzo. '> 

II quarto, r \V> 

II quinto. 

U sesto. 

II settimo. 

L' ottavo. 

II nono. 

II decimo. 

L'undecimo; decimo prfaitok 

L' ultimo. 

II penultimo. 

Una volta. 

Due volte. 

La meta. Mezzc 

II terzo. 

II quarto. 

II quinto. 

II sesto, etc. 

Un fiume. 

Una foutana ; una fontew 

Una cascata. 

La porta. 

Un' era. 

Una mezz' ora. 



480 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



A quarter of an hour. 

Sunday. 

Monday. 

Tuesday. 

Wednesday. 

Thursday. 

I'riday. 

Saturday. 

A holiday 

The walls of the town. 

A monument. 

The tower. 

A church. 

The cathedral, minster. 

A convent. 

A chapel. 

A palace. 

The town-hall. 

The castle. 

The theatre. 

The custom-house. 

The post-office. 

The library. 

The university. 

The exchange. 

The bank. 

A square. 

A bridge. 

A shop. 

A bookseller's shop. 

A coffee-house. 

An inn ; a hoteL 

A dining-house. 

A furnished room. 

Breakfast. 



Un quart d'heura 

Dimanche. 

Lundi. 

Mardi. 

Mercredl 

Jeudi. 

Vendredi. 

Samedi. 

Un jour de fete. 

Les murs de la viOe^ 

Un monument. 

La tour. 

Une eglise. 

La cathedrale. 

Un convent. 

Une chapelle. 

Un palais. 

L'hotel de ville. 

Le chateau. 

Le theatre. 

La douane. 

Le bureau des poster 

La bibliotheque. 

L'universite. 

La bourse. 

La banque. 

Une place. 

Un pout. 

Une boutique. 

Une librairie. 

Un cafe. 

Une auberge ; un hdtei 

Un restaurant. 

Une chambre garnie. 

Le d6ie4ner. 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN, 481 



Eiue viertel Stunde. 

Sonntag. 

Moiitag. 

Dieiistag 

Mittwoch. 

Doiiaerstag. 

Preilag. 

Sum stag ; Sounabend. 

Eiu Feiertag; eiii Festtag. 

Die Stadtmauern. 

Eiu Denkmal. 

Der Tliiirm. 

Eiue Kirclie. 

Da,& Minister; der Dom. 

Eiu Kloster. 

Eiue Kapelle, 

Eiu Palast. 

Das Katliliaus. 

Das Schloss. 

Das Scliauspielhaus. 

Das Zollliaus, Mauthhaus. 

D.e Post. 

Die Bibliotliek. 

Die Uuiversitat 

Die Porse. 

Die Bauk. 

Eiu matz. 

Eiiie Briicke. 

Eiu Kaufladen. 

Eiii Buchladeii. 

Ein Kaffehaus. 

Eiu Gastliaus ; ein Gasthof. 

Eiu Speisehaus. 

Ein moblirtes Zimmer. 

pas Friihstiick. 



Un quarto d' ora. 

Domenica. 

Lunedi. 

Martedi. 

Mercoledi. 

Giovedi. 

Veuerdi. 

Sabbato. 

Un giorno di festa. 

Le mura della cittiL 

Un monumento. 

La torre. 

Una chiesa. 

La cattedrale. 

Un convento. 

Una cappella. 

Un palazzo. 

La casa della cittiL 

II castello. 

U teatro. 

La dogana. 

L' uffizio delle poste. 

La biblioteca ; la libreria. 

L' universita. 

La borsa. 

La banca. 

Una piazza. 

Un ponte. 

Una bottega. 

Una libreria. 

Un caffe. 

Un' albergo ; una locanda 

Un trattore, 

Una stanza mobigliata. 

La colazione. 



482 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Luncheon. 

Soup. 

Uoast-beef. 

Beef-steak. 

Veal. 

Mutton. 

Pork. 

Eish. 

Eggs. 

Cake. 

Butter. 

Cheese. 

Beer. 

Ale, 

l^ort. 

Sherry. 

Ices. 

A railway. 

An express train. 

That is true. 

I believe so. 

It is late. 

I am fatigued. 

I am thirsty; I am hungry. 

It is time to set off. 

That is not true. 

I did not understand. 

Who is it ? 

What are you doing ? 

What do you want ? 

Where are you ? 

Where is he ? 

What is he doing ? 

Where are you going ? 

What do you say P 



Une collation. 

La soupe. 

Du boeuf roti, roast-b^£ 

Beef-steak. 

Du veau. 

Du mouton. 

Du cochon. 

Le poisson. 

Des oeufs. 

Le gateau. 

Le beurre. 

Le fromage. 

La biere. 

L'ale. 

Le vin d'Oporto. 

Le vin de Xer^s. 

Les glaces, 

Un chemin de fei. 

Un train de vitesse. 

C'est vrai. 

Je le crois. 

II est tard. 

Je suis fatigue. 

J'ai soif ; j'ai faim. ^ 

II est temps de partir. 

Cela n'est pas vrai. 

Je n' avals pas compris* 

Qui est-ce ? 

Que faites-vous ? 

Que voulez-vous ? 

Ou etes-vous ? 

Ou est-il ? 

Que fait-il ? 

Oh allez-vous ? 

Que dites-vous f 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 485 



Eine Zwischen-Mahlzeit. 

Die Suppe. 

Ochsenbraten. 

Beef-steak. 

Kalbfleisch. 

Hammelfleisch. 

Schweinefleisch. 

Der Fisch. 

Eier. 

Der Kuchen, 

Die Butter. 

Der Kase. 

Das Bier. 

Das Ale. 

Der Portwein. 

Xereswein. 

Das Eis. 

Eine Eisenbalm. 

Ein Schnellzug. 

Das ist walir. 

Ich glaube es. 

Es ist spat. 

Ich bin miide. 

Ich bin durstig; hungrig. 

Es ist Zeit abzureisen. 

Das ist nicht wahr. 

Ich verstand nicht. 

Wer ist es ? 

Was machen Sie ? 

Was wollen Sie ? 

Wo sind Sie ? 

Woister? 

Was macht er? 

Wohin gehen Sie ? 

W"as sagen Sie ? 



Una colazione. 

La zuppa. 

Deir arrosto di bue. 

Beef-steak. 

Del vitello. 

Del castrato. 

Del majale. 

II pesce. 

Delle uova. 

La focaccia. 

II burro, butiro. 

II formaggio. 

La birra. 

La birra fatta con formentau 

II vino d' Oporto. 

II vino di Xeres. 

I sorbetti ; i gelatL 

Una strada ferrata. 

ConvogHo celere. 

E vero. 

Lo credo. 

t tardi. 

Sono stracco. 

Ho sete ; ho fame, 

E ora di partire. 

Gib non e vero. 

Non aveva capito. 

Chie? 

Che cosa fate ? 

Che cosa volete ? 

Dove siete ? 

Dov' e ? 

Che cosa fa ? 

Dove andate P 

Che cosa dite P 



WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Did you understand me ? 
Is dinner ready ? 
Is it time to go ? 
Where shall we go ? 
"When shall we set out? 
Are there any letters for 
' me? 
Come here. 
Make haste. 
Tell him to come. 

Take care. Stop. 
Not so quick. 
Speak to him. 
Do what I tell you. 

Go away. 

Bring up the carriage. 

Call (wake) me at five 

o'clock. 
Yesterday. 
To-day. 
To-morro*;. 
Every day. 
What name do you give to 

that dish? 
Bring me some bread. 

Bring me a glass of water. 

How much for wine ? 
What is the name of it ? 
At what hour shall we ar- 
rive at X ? 



M'avez-vous compris f 
Le diner est-il pret P 
Est-il temps de partirf 
Oil irons-nous ? 
Quand partirons-nous P 
Y a-t-il des lettres poof 

moi? 
Venez-ici. 
D^pechez-voua. 
Dites-lui de venir. 

Prenez garde. Arrdtea. 

Pas si vite. 

Parlez-lui. 

Taites ce que je vous dia. 

AUez-vous en. 

Eaites avancer la voituie. 

Reveillez-moi a cinq 

heures. 
Hier. 

Aujourd'hui. 
Demain. 
Tous les jours. 
Quel nom doanez-vou* ^ 

ce mets ? 
Apportez-moi du pain. 

Apportez-moi on rerre 

d'eau. 
Combien le vin P 
Comment I'appelez-vousP 
A quelle heure arriverona- 

nous a X ? 



FRENCH, GEkMAN, AND ITALIAN. 485 



Haben Sie verstanden ? 
1st das Mittagsesseu fertig ? 
1st es Zeit abzureiseii ? 
Wohin solleii wir geheu ? 
Wann sollen wir abreiseu ? 
Sind Briet'e fiir micli da ? 

Kommeii Sie hier. 

Beeileii Sie sicii. 

Sageii Sie ilini, er mogc 

koinmen, 
Geben Sie Acht. Halt. 
Nicbt so schnell. 
Sprechen Sie mit ibm. 
Tbun Sie, was ich Thnen 

sage. 
Geben Sie weg. 
Lassen Sie den VYagen vor- 

fabreu. 
Wecken Sie micb urn fiinf 

Ubr. 
Gestern. 
Heute. 
Morgen. 
AUe Tage. 
Welcben Nam en geben Sie 

dieseni Gericbte? 
Bringen Sie niir etwas 

Bi-od. 
Bringen Sie niir eiu Glas 

Wasser. 
Wie viel fiir den Wein ? 
Wie beisst er ? 
JUm wie viel Ubr werden 

wir in X ankonnnen ? 



Mi avete eapito ? 
E pronto il pranzo ? 
E egli ora di partire ? 
Dove andremo ? 
Quando partiremo ? 
Ci sono lettere per me ? 

Veuite qua. 
Spicciatevi. 
Ditegb cbe venga, 

Badate. Fermatevl 

Non cosi presto. 

Parlategli. 

Tate quel cbe vi dico. 

Andate via. 

Eate veuir avanti la ca^ 

rozza. 
Svegbatemi alle cinque. 

leri. 

Oggi. ^ 

Dimani. 

Ogni giorno. 

Come cbiamate questa pie- 

tanza ? 
Portatemi del pane. 

Recaiemi un biccbier d'a/5- 

qua. 
Quanto cost a il vino? 
Come si cbiama ? 
A clie ora arriveremo n(A 

aX? 



486 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Wliat railway is that ? Quel est ce cliemin de fer? 



Is it more expensive ? 
At what hour does the 

steamboat start P 
What is the fare? 

Have you a printed tariff? 

Is the road easy to find ? 

How far is it to X ? 

What is the usual charge 

by the day ? 
At what hour does it start? 

Which is the best hotel at 

X? 
Are the charges moderate ? 
Where is the station for X ? 
Is this the train to X ? 
How soon shall we be 

there ? 
Stop, coachman ! we wish 

to get out 
When must I be ready P 

I wish to see the landlord 

of the hotel. 
Where is the water-closet? 
Bring me fresh water. 

I wislt ISO have breakfast 
(suppwV 



Est-ce plus cher? 

A quelle herure le bateau a 
vapeur part-il ? 

Quel est le prix du pas- 
sage ? 

Avez-vous un tarif im- 
prime? 

Trouve-t-on facilement le 
chemin ? 

Combieu y a-t-il d'ici a X? 

Combien donne-t-on ordi- 

nairemeut par jour ? 
A quelle heure part-e]le ? 

Quel est le meilleur hotel 

aX? 
Y a-t-ou bon marche ? 
Ou est I'embarcadere de X? 
Est-ce la le train pour X 1 
Quand arriverons-nous ? 

Arretez, cocher ! nous vou- 

lons descendre. 
A quelle heure faut-il etre 

pret ? 
Je desire parler au maitre 

de rhotel. 
Ou sontles lieux d'aisance ? 
Apportez de I'eau frdche. 

Je desirerais dejeuner (sou* 
per). 



FEENCH, C4ERMAN, AND ITALIAN. IS^ 



Was ist das fiir eiiiC Eiseu- 

bahn? 
Ist es theurer ? 
Um wie viel Ulir falirt das 

Dampfscliiff ab F 
Wie viel betragt das Passa- 

giergeld ? 
Haben Sie eiueu gedruck- 

teiiTarif? 
1st der Weg leiclit zu fin- 
den? 
Wie weit ist es von hier 

nachX? 
Was bezalilt man gewohn- 

licb fiir den Tag? 
Um wie viel Ulir falirt er 

ab? 
Welches ist der beste 

Gastliof in X ? 
Ist es billig dort ? 
Wo ist der Balmhof nach X? 
Ist dies der Zug naeh X? 
Wie bald werden wir dort 

sein? 
Halt, Kutsclier ! Wir wol- 

len aussteigen. 
Wann muss ich fertig sein ? 

Ich. wiinsche den Herm des 

Hauses zu sehen. 
Wo ist der Abtritt ? 
Bringen sie frisches Was- 

ser. 
Icb wrinsche das Priilistuck 

(das Abendessen). 



Quale e questa strada i&t* 

rata ? 
fi pill caro ? 
A cbe era parte il batello 



a vapore 



Quanto costa il trasporto 

de' passe^gieri ? 
Avete una lista stampata. 

^ la via facile a trovarsiP 

Quanto distante ^ X ... da 

quip ^ 
Quanto si spende al giorno 

di solito P 
A che era parte P 

Qual h il miglior albergo in 

X? 
Sono i prezzi equi colkP 
Dov' e V imbarcatoio di X P 
E quelle il traino per X P 
Ci arriveremo presto P 

Eermatevi, vetturino, vo- 
gliamo discendere. 

A che ora debbo esser 
pronto ? 

Vorrei parlare al maestro 
di casa. 

Dov' e la ritirata P 

Portatemi dell' acqua fresca.. 

Vorrei far colazione (co- 
nare). 



488 WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



Give me something to eat. 
At what hour do we dine ? 

Show me your bill of fare 

and list of wines. 
Bring me the newspaper. 
Is he ready ? 
Which is the way to the 

post-office ? 
How much is the postage ? 
Send that letter to the post. 

Where does a banker live ? 
I wish to see a medical man. 

What fee should I give 

him? 
Can I have a warm bath ? 

Bring me some soap. 
Order a hackney-coach for 

me. 
Make a good fire. 
How much have I to pay ? 

Bring me my account. 

Turn to the right, left, 

straight forward. 
How much is charged for 

admission ? 
What direction must I 

take? 
Can I have dinner ? 



Donnez-moi quelque chose 

a manger. 
A quelle heure dinons- 

nous? 
Montrez-moi la carte. 

Apportez-moi le journal. 
Est-il pret ? _ » 

Pourriez-vous m'indiquer 

la poste aux lettres ? 
Combien pour le port ? 
Faites jeter cette lettre h la 

poste. 
Ou demeure un banquier P 
Je desire voir un medecin. 

Combien faut-il lui donnerP 

Pourrais-je avoir un baia 

chaud ? 
Apportez-moi du savoi.. 
Eaites-moi venir une voi- 

ture de louage. 
Faites un bon feu. 
Combien dois-je ? 

Apportez-moi mon compte. 

Prenez a droite, a gauche, 

marchez tout droit. 
Quel est le prix d' entree P 

Quelle direction faut-il que 

je prenne ? 
Pourrais-je y diner? 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 48» 



Geben Sie mir etwas zu 

essen. 
Um wie viel Uhr speisen wir 

zu Mittag ? 
2eigen Sie mir den Speise- 

zettel. 
Bringen Sie mir die Zeitung. 
1st er bereit ? 
Welclies ist der Weg zur 

Post? 
Wie viel betragt das Porto ? 
Senden Sie diesen Brief zur 

Post. 
Wo wohnt ein Banquier ? 
Tell wiinsclie eiuen Arzt zu 

spreclien. 
Wie viel Honorar soil icb 

ihm geben? 
i^^ann icli ein warmes Bad 

bekommen ? 
Bringen Sie mir Seife, 
Bestellen Sie mir eine 

Lohnkutsche. 
Machen Sie ein gutesPeuer. 
Wie viel liabe ich zu be- 

zahlen. 
Bringen Sie mir die Recli- 

nung, 
Gehen Sie rechts, links, 

geradeaus. 
Wie lioch ist der Eintritts- 

preis ? 
Welche Richtung muss ich. 

nelimen ? 
Kan ich das Mittagsessen 

haben P 



Datemi qualche cosa dit 

mangiare ? 
A che ora si pranza ? 

Mostratemi la lista e la notk 

dei viui. 
Portatemi la gazzetta. 
fi egli air ordine ? 
Potreste indicarmi il cam* 

mino cbe va alia posta P 
Quanto costa il porto P 
Pate portare questa lettera 

alia posta. 
Dove abita un bancbiere P 
Desidererei parlare con ua 

medico. 
Quanto gli debbo dare P 

Potrei avere un bagno 

caldoP 
Portatemi un po' di sapone. 
Ordinatemi una carrozza da. 

nolo, un fiacre. 
Pate un buon fuoco. 
Quanto vi debbo P 

Portatemi il mio conto. 

Si Volga a destra, a sinistra^ 

vada diritto. 
Quanto costa il biglietto^ 

d'ingresso ? 
Qua! direzione devo prea^' 

dere ? 
Potrb avervi il prans© f 



490 ~ WORDS AND PHRASES IN ENGLISH, 



How much? 

Have you no better ? 

It is fine. 
It is very hot. 
Does it rain ? 
It is cold. 
Send for a cab. 

Coachman, drive me to the 
station. 

Where is the baggage- 
room ? 

Please to give me two first- 
class tickets to X. 

lere tney are. 
Vhat do they cost ? 

At what hour is supper 



'That's very dear. 
Where are our rooms ? 

Have any letters arrived for 
Mr. N., poste restante? 
Here is my passport. 
Is breakfast ready ? 
Give me a drink. 
What o'clock is it ? 
What kind of weather is it ? 
How do you do ? 
Very well, I thank you. 
Have you a room to let ? 



Combien ? 

N'avez-vous rien de meil- 

leur ? 
II fait beau. 
II fait tres chaud. 
Pleut-il ? _ 
II fait froid. 
Faites chercher un fiacre. 

Cocher, conduisez-moi au 

^ chemin de fer. 
Oil est le bureau de ba- 

gages? 
Deux billets de premiere 

classe pour X, s'il vous 

plait. 
Voila, monsieur. 
Combien ces biUetsP 

A quelle heure soupe-t-onf 

C'est bien cher. 

Oil sont nos chambres ? 

Y a-t-il des lettres poste re- 
stante pour Monsieur N.? 

Voici mon passeport. 

Le dejeuner est-il servi? 

Donnez-moi a boire. 

Quelle heure est-il? 

Quel temps fait-il ? 

Comment vous portez-vous P 

Port bien, je vous remercie. 

Auriez-vous une chambre 
h me louer ? 



FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN. 491, 



Wie yiel ? 

Haben Sie niclits Bas- 
se res ? 

Es ist schon. 

Es ist selir lieiss. 

Regnet es ? 

Es ist kalt. 

Lasseu Sie eiiie Drosclike 
holen. 

Kutscher, falireii Sie mich 
nacli der Eisenbalin. 

Wo ist die Gepackan- 
nahme ? 

Ich bitte um zwei Billete 
erster Klasse nach X. 

Hier sind sie. 

Wie viel kosten sie ? 

XJm wie viel Ulir ist das 

Abendessen fertig ? 
Das ist sehr tlieuer. 
Wo siud unsere Zimmer ? 

Sind Briefe angekommen 

fiir Herrn N. ? 
Hier ist mein Pass. 
Ist das Friihstiick fertig ? 
Geben Sie mir zii trinken. 
Wie viel Uhr ist es ? 
Wie ist das Wetter ? 
Wie befinden Sie sich ? 
Sebrwohl, iclidankelhuen. 
Haben Sie ein Zimmer zu 

vermiethen ? 



Quanto ? 

Non ne avete di miglioref 

Ea bel tempo. 

Ea caldissimo. 

Piove ? 

Ea freddo. 

Fate cercare un fiacre. 

Coccliiere, conducetemi all*- 

strada ferrata. 
Dov' e Tufficio deglieffettif 

Due biglietti di prima- 
classe per X, se vi piace 

Ecco, signore. 

Quanto avete pagato p«> 

questi biglietti ? 
A che ora si cena ? 

E carissimo. 

Dove sono le nostre c»^ 

mere ? 
Vi sono lettere per il Sig; 

nor N. posta restante ? 
Ecco il mio passaporto. 
h in tavola la colazione P 
Datemi da bere. 
Che ora e ? 
Che tempo fa ? 
Come sta? 

Benissimo, la ringrazio. 
Avrebbe una camera ^ 

affittare ? 



^RAVELLURS' ^jfiLEGRAPHIC CODE. 



Before making use of the words in this Code^ it is essential 
that intending users should satisfy themselves that the friends 
toith whom they intend to correspond have in their possession 
*h€ same edition of the work as the one about to be used. 

This Code is intended as a means of reducing the expense 
•of telegraphing. A single word means a whole sentence. 
A copy of the Code should be left with the person at home 
to whom telegrams would naturaUy be sent (whose name and 
address should be registered at the local telegraph-office). 
The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal 
CoA& between two persons, who may agree upon certain sen- 
:^nces, and write them carefully in their two books. This 
Code has been made up expressly for The Ccipletb 

POOKET-GUIDE. 

Alzaond Telegraph to ——. 

Almost Telegraph as soon as possiblft 

Aloe S Telegraph your reply. 

Aloft Telegraph and keep us well posted. 

Aloof Inform us by telegraph. 

Aloud Telegraph us what to do. 

Air Telegraph if you do not understand our despatch, 

A j ar Cannot understand your telegram. Please repeat. 

Akin We cannot understand the word in your tela- 

gram. Please repeat it. 

Alack The word you do not understand is — — . 

Alarm Your despatch received. 

Agog Answer my telegram of ——. 

Agony Answer immediately by telegi^ph. 

Aidea Answer by telegraph at . 

Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply. 

Alum Have you received our telegram of — — ? j 

Amaze Have received your telegram of ——. : 

Amber If you wish to communicate with me by telegnq^ 

do so at , before . 

Amboy Please advise by telegraph. 

Amen Get despatch at telegraph office. 

Amical Before despatch received, we had -^— . 

Amidst Have you sent us a despatch to-day? 

Amity If we don't telegraph you by — -, you may oon* 

elude — «. . 



TBAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 493 

Ample If you don't telegraph us by - — ,we shall 

Amplify What is reason of delay in reply to our telegramt 

Amuse 

Analogy. 

Anatomy.... 

Ancestor 

Anchor 

Ancient 

Andiron 

Anew. 

Ansrel 

Angry.. 

Animal . . . •• 

Animate 

Ankle .. 

Annals 

Annex 

Annul 

A.ppeal 

Apply 

Apron 

Baby Your letter of — Is receireA 

Back Your letter is received. 

Bacon Send letters here until the . 

Badly ...Send letters to -^— until the ——. 

Backstay Send letters care of—. 

Badger We write you . 

Ba£S.e We wrote you last mail. 

Bag Will write you at once. 

Bail Full information by to-day's mtU. 

Bake Hare sent you letter by to-day's maiL 

Balcony Letter was sent. 

Bald Answer by maiL 

Ballad No letter to-day ; telegraph contents If 

Balm Have received no letters since — — k 

Banjo Forward no letters after—— w 

Bandit We forwarded letters to — on the — — 



494 .t.AV^LLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 

Banner Tour letter of received and agreed to. 

banquet Your letter of received and answered. 

Baron All matter to date has been forwarded. 

Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for ua ? 

Beadle Await our letter. 

Beast We have advices which, in our opiuipn, rnxj < 

your return to . Where will a letter sponv^ 

reach you? 

Beauty We have written you fully on the »»l;i!t^ 

Beckon What is reason of delay in replying to m\« Xett0tf 

Bed 

Beef 

Befog 

Beggar 

Betide 

Bestow 

Betray 

Biceps 

Birch 

Blast 

Behead 

Behold 

Belay 

Bench •• 

Belt M 

Bias 

Biped M 

Birthday ...... 

Bishop 

Bivalve c 

BlacKxes 



TEAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. *' 495- 



Cabin We shall return at once by — — . 

Caboose ... We shall return at once by the -— . 

Cadet We shall sail for home on the — . 

Cage We sail — — . 

Cake When does sail? 

Calico We think it best to delay departure. 

Calm = .We think it best to delay departure until ——v If HA 

further advice, shall leave on that day for — — w 

Caloric Cannot leave — — . 

Cameo Cannot leave until . 

Camp Cannot leave — — . Will sail by next steameTa 

Canal Have missed steamer, 

Canary Have missed steamer ; will sail by next. 

Candy When does leave? 

Cane Steamer sails on — — . 

Cannon Sailing postponed until . 

Canopy Tickets lost ; send duplicates. 

Canteen .. .Arrived all well ; pleasant passage. Tell——. 
Canvass ...Arrivedall well, but stormy passage. TeU — -. 

Caper Arr.allwell; pleasant passage. Shall proceed to —». 

Caprice Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Shall proc. to — ^ 

Capsize Arrived all well ; have written. 

Capsule Arrived all well. Address letters to — . 

Captain Has arrived? 

Caramel ...He arrived on — — . 
Caravan . . .He has not arrived. 

Carbon Return at once. 

Card_ Return as soon as possible. 

Cardinal ...Return at once. Important matters demand your pfeu* 

ence here. 
Careworn. .Things look blue. Unless strong reason to the contrary 

should like to have you shorten your trip. 

Cargo You need not return. 

Carmine ...You need not return until — — . 

Catnip You must be here by the . 

Caxton Impossible to return until——. 

Cement Arrange for our return. - . - 

Central Cannot return unless , 

Chafe If agreeable, will remain ——. 

Chair When will you return ? 

Chancel ...'V'hen do you expect to be here ? 

Chaos We shall be with you by the — — . 

Chapter ....Secure passage by this steamer. 
Charcoal ...We shall come by the train leaving at— — i^ 

Chariot We shall arrive at this station by train due «t«— ^ 

Charity ....» 

Charm 

Cherisli...... 



496 TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 



Older 



Cimeter. 



Cipher 
Circuit 



Citadel 



Clack 
Coil ... 
Colic . 



Confront ... 

Dabble Send cable transfer for — ~, through ■— , 

Dabster Send me new credit for — — , through — — . 

Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through — — . 

Daffodil . . . .Remit by mail : — ■ 



Dagger £5 

Dainty 10 

Dale 15 

DaUy 20 

Damper 25 

Dance 30 

JJandy 35 

JDangling 40 

Daring 45 

JDark 50 



Darkey £55 

Dashed 60 

Daub 65 

Daylight 70 

Daytime 75 

Deacon 80 

Deadeye 85 

Deaf 90 

Debased 95 

Debatable ...100 



DebiUty ...£19» 

Debut 150 

Decamp 175 

Decay 200 

Deceit 250 

Decide 300 

Decimal 400 

Declare BOft 



Decrease ...Remit at once. 

Deem We have remitted. 

Deface Have you forwarded remittance? 

Defeat We cannot remit. 

Defection... We cannot remit more than — — . 
Defence ■ . . We send draft by iirst mail. 
Defiance ...Will honor draft. 

Deform Will honor draft to amount of — -. 

Defrayed ..Will you henor my draft? 

Deftly Will you honor my draft to amount of — 

Delve Please prepay passage per . 

Demerit ....Please prepay passage, and telegraph name of 
Democrat.. Have prepaid your passage per , sailing on 



TRAVELLEES' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 49T 

IJemon Are without fonda; send money to — — . 

i)entist 

Dunce .- 

Damask ...... 

Dastard ...... 

Daxigliter ..• 

Debris 

Destiny 

Deck 

Denizen 

Denote 

Dense 

Depose 

Depress 

Derange ...► 

Device 

Dilute 

Disclose ....- 

Distress .... 

Divan 

Dock » 

Dome 

Dowdy 

Drab 

Drama 

DriU « 

Dress « 

Drum 

Bagle In conaeqnence of illness of——, we tte'detaiuea hcML 

Send letters here imtil the . 

Earth — is better, and we hope to leave on the ''--^■>. 

East .— — is seriously ill; will advise vou again. 



498 TRAYELLELIS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 

Ebony is sick, but not dangerously. 

Echo ■ is improving slowly. 

Edible is very mucli better ; no need of your retuminf. 

Editor is no i)etter. Would come home at once. 

Educate ••• • is in a critical condition. 

Efface •- is rapidly sinking. 

Effort died lastnigbt. 

Egress died yesterday. 

Efapse died to-day. 

Elaborate-. Please express our sympathy. 

Electric We are all well, and there is no need of your returning 

Eleva,te Hope all are well. 

Enchant ...All are well. 

Elixir 

Elongate ... 

Elope 

Eluded 

Empire 

Emulate ... 

Endow 

Engine 

Gadfly Stay as long as you like. Everything is as it should ba, 

and all are well. 

Gaiter Everything sound, and doing well. 

Galaxy We* propose extending tour. 

Gallant We propose extending tour to . If all right, tele» 

graph. 

Game When will you be in ? 

Garden We expect to reach by . 

Garrison ...Will meet you at . 

Gastric We wish to know where you can he met between »oi» 

and . 

Gazette Do as you think best. 

Gender Can you arrange ? 

Genial We can arrange. 

Geyser We cannot aiTange. 

Q-host Everything satisfactorily armigcdl. 



TRAVELLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE. 4-- 

Gimlet We think it advisable to . 

Ginger We think well of . 

GiTlhood . . .We do not think well of . 

Gladden . . . Act according to your own judgment. 
Glancing ...How is business? 

Glass Business is good. Everything all right. 

Gleam Any thing the matter? No word from you by mail or wiMi 

Glide Send us word at once. 

Glimmer ...Nothing the matter; all well. Have writtea. 

Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me. 

Glory Where is ? 

Glue Do you know address of——? 

Goblin Address of party is — — . 

Goddess ...Address cannot be given. 
Gondola . ...When did you send — — ? 
Goodness . . Have you done so ? 
Gotham ....Have you done anything f 

Gothic Keep this confidential, 

Gouge ' 



Gout 

Govern 

Gown 

Grab 

Grade , 

Gradual ... 

Grammar.. 

Greedy 

Grief m 

Grocer ....^ 

drowl 

Grain ,^ 

Gruff ......... 

Guard ....«» 

Guano 

"Juide 



INDEX. 



^BBBVILLE, 166. 

iS)bot8ford, 94. 
Aberdeen, 83. 
Abergele, 31, 
Abo, 455. 
Adelsberg, 258. 
iEtna, Mount, 386. 
Aghadoe, 8. 
Agram, 258. ■ 
Ahrweiler, 226. 
Ailsa Craig, 59. 
Airolo, 283. 
Aix-la-Chapelle, 

203. 
Aix-les-Bains, 440. 
Alatri, 371. 
Albacete, 414. 
Albano, 366. 
Alessandria, 305. 
Alfort, 196. 
Alicante, 414. 
AUoway, 58. 
Alpaach, 284. 
Althorp Park, 125. 
Altorf, 282. 
Amalti, 383. 
Ambleside, 45, 44. 
Amboisft, 198. 
Ambras, ^65. 



Amiens, 166. 
Amsteg, 282. 
Amsterdam, 215. 
Anagni, 371. 
Anagao, Lake, 377. 
Ancona, 328. 
Andermatt, 288. 
Andernach, 226. 
Anglesea, 27. 



221, 



Angoulfime, 439. 
Annan, 56. 
Annesley, 108. 
Antemnse, 366. 
Antibes, 399. 
Antwerp, 211. 
Aosta, 295. 
Apennines, 328. 
Appian Way, 363. 
Aqua Acetosa, 365. 
Aquino, 371. 
Aranjuez, 426. 
Arbroath, 83. 
Arcachon, 439. 
Ardchattan, 74. 
Ardrishaig, 79. 
Arenfels,225. 
Arezzo, 338. 
Ariccia, 367. 
Aries, 401. 
Arnhem, 217. 
Arena, 299, 298. 
Arras, 166. 
Ashton, 104. 
Asni^res, 165. 
Assisi, 339. 
Assmannshausen, 232. 
Athlone, 22. 
Auburn, 23. 
Augsburg, 266. 
Avernus, Lake, 378. 
Avignon, 402. 
Avoca, Vale of, 20. 
Awe, Loch, 78. 
Ayr, 58. 

BacharacHj 231. 
Badajos, 434 
Baden-Baden, 272. 
Baggage, xii. 
"^aia, 378. 



Baireuth, 270. 
Balearic Isles, 4091. 
Ballater, 84. 
Balmoral, 84. 
Balquhidder, 73. 
Bamberg, 270. 
Banavie, 76. 
Bangor, 28, 26. 
Bannockburn, 81. 
Barbizon, 197. 
Barcelona, 406. 
Basle, 374. 
Bassenthwaite, 63. 
Bath, 157. 
Battle Abbey, IBB. 
Bayonue, 433. 
Baziasch, 256. 
Bedford, 125. 
Belcaro, 339. 
Belfast, 25. 
Belgium, 201. 
Belgrade, 256. 
Bellaggio, 300. 
Bellinzona, 279. 
Belvoir Castle, 107» 
Ben Ledi, 72, 73. 
Ben Lomond, 70. 
Ben Venue, 71, 73. 
Bergamo, 307, 
Bergen, 448. 
Berlin, 241. 
Bernardino Pass, 279. 
Berne, 287. 
Bernese Oberland,28Si 
Bernina Pass, 280. 
BesanQon, 404. 
Beverley, 102. 
Biarritz, 433. 
Bienne, 291. 
Bingen, 232. 



INDEX 



501 



Birmingham, trl, 124. 
Black Forest, 272, 273. 
Blarney Castle, 4. 
Blois, 197. 
Blue Grotto, 382. 
Bologna, 322. 
Bonn, 222. 
Boppard, 230. 
Bordeaux, 437. 
Bordighera, 396. 
Borromean Isles, 299. 
Boston, 106. 
Bothwel], 68. 
Bougival, 194. 
Boulogne, 161. 
Bowness, 45. 
Bozen, 265. 
Bracciano, 370. 
Bradford, 103. 
Braemar, 84. 
Bray, 20. 
Bremen, 239. 
Brenner Pass, 265. 
Brescia, 307, 305. 
Brest, 168. 
Brieg, 296. 
Brienz, 284. 
Brighton, 155. 
Brindisi, 328. 
Bristol, 158. 
Britannia Bridge, 27. 
Broek, 217. 
Bmck, 258. 
Bruges, 207. 
Briinig Pass, 284i. 
Brunswick, 238. 
Brussels, 204. 
Bucharest, 257- 
Budapest, 255, 
Bulgaria, 25T. 
Burgos, 433. 
Bste, 79. 
Buttermere, ^. 
Cadehabbia, 301. 
Cadiz, 421. 
Caen, 167. 
Caernarvon, 29. 
Calais, 161, 
Caledonian Canal^ 76. 
Eallander, 73. 



Camaldoli, 337. 
Cambridge, 123. 
Campagna, The, 364. 
Cannes, 398. 
Cannstadt, 267. 
Canossa, 325. 
Canterbury, 160. 
Capellen, 229. 
Capri, 382. 
Capua, 371. 
Cardiff, 158. 
Cardross, 67, 69. 
Carlisle, 55. 
Carlsbad, 249. 
Carlsruhe, 272. 
Carrara, 392. 
Caserta, 381. 
Cashel, 14. 
Cassel, 238. 
Cassino, 371. 
Castel, 235. 
Castellamare, 381. 
Castel Gandolfo, 367. 
Catania, 385. 
Caub, 231. 
Cauterets, 437. 
Cawdor Castle, 78. 
Certosa, La, 304, 337. 
Cesena, 327. 
Cette, 406. 
Chalons, 200. 
Chambord, 198. 
Chamounix, 293. 
Chantilly, 195. 
Charleroi, 202. 
Charlottenburg, 245. 
Cliartres, 168. 
Chateau Thierry, 199. 
Chatham, 160. 
Chatillon, 19?. 
Chatsworth, 1C9. 
Chauniont, 198. 
Chaudfontaine, 203. 
Chenonceaux, 198. 
Cherbourff, 167- 
Chester, 32. 
Chi^Tenna, 279. 
Chiemsee, 261. 
ChiUon, 291. 
Chio?gia. 820. 



Chiswick, 154. 
Christiania, 445. 
Civith, Vecchia, 389. 
Clarens, 2^1. 
Cloyne, 5. 
Coblence, 227. 
Coburg, 240. 
Coimbra, 435. 
Coire, 278. 
Colchester, 154. 
Col de Balme, 292- 
Coleraine, 24. 
Colico, 301, 279. 
Cologne, 218. 
Como, Lake, 300, 
Compifegne, 196. 
Coniston Lake, 46. 
Conuemara, 23. 
Constance, 275. 
Consuls, xviii. 
Conway, 29. 
Copenhagen, 441. 
Coppet, 290. 
Cora Linn, 68. 
Cordova, 415. ,. 
Cork, 3. 

Cornice Road, 396, 
Correggio, 325. 
Cortona, 338. 
Coventry, 113. 
Cracow, 257. 
Cremona, 310, SOS. 
Cronstadt, 456. 
Culloden, 7a 
Cumse, 378. 
Daemstadt, 'i7%. 
Deltt, 213. 
Denmark, 441. 
Derby, 108. 
Dej-byshire, Peak oL 

108. 
DerM-^entwaterj 53. 
Dieppe, 161. 
Dijon, 198. 
Dinan, 168. 
Dissc.itis, 279. 
Domo d' (>ssola. 298. 
Douai, 2G1. 
Dover, 161. 
Dracl'<:nfei8,253. 



502 



INDEX. 



Dresden, 246. 
Drogheda, 20. 
Drontlieim, 447. 
A Dryburgh Abbey, 94. 
Dublin, 14. 
Dulwich, 153. 
Dumbarton, 66. 
Dumfries, 56. 
Dunblane, 81. 
Dundee, 82. 
Dunkeld, 82. 
Dunottar Castle, 83. 
Durham, 95. 
Diisseldorf, 318. 
Eastbouene, 155. 
Eaton HaU, 35. 
Eaux-Bonnes, 437- 
Eaux-Chaudes, 437- 
Ecclefechan, 55. 
Eddystone Light, 159. 
Edenhall, 54. 
Edinburgh, 85. 
Ehrenbreitstein, 328. 
Ehrenfels, 232. 
Eisenach, 239. 
Elsinore, 444. 
Elstow, 125. 
Eltville, 334. 
Ely, 123. 

Emmerich, 317, 218. 
Ems, 228. 
Engadine, 379. 
Enghien, 195. 
England, 33. 
Erfurt, 340. 
Ermenonville, 196, 
Escurial, 439. 
Esthwaite, 44. 
Eton, 151. 
Etretat, 163. 
Evora, 436. 
Evreux, 167. 
Exeter, 159. 
Faenza, 337. 
Faro, 436. 
Encamp, 163. 
Ferentmo, 871. 
Ferney, 389. 
Ferrara, 821 . 
liegole, 387. 



Florence, 339. 
Fliielen, 283. 
Folkestone, 160. 
Foligno, 339. 
Fontainebleau, 196. 
Forli, 337. 
Fort Augustus, 77- 
Fountains Abbey, 97. 
France, Northern, 161. 
France, Southern, 397. 
Frankfort, 336. 
Frascati, 368. 
Freiburg, 373, 288. 
Fr6jus, 399. 
Frosinone, 371. 
Frutigen, 387. 
Fulda, 339. 
Furca Pass, 283. 
Furness Abbey, 42. 
Fiirstenberg, 383. 
Galway, 23. 
Garda, Lake of, 301. 

308. 
Gastein, 260. 
Gemmi Pass, 387. 
Geneva, 289. 
Genoa, 393. 
Genzano, 367. 
Germany, 318. 
Gerona, 406. 
Ghent, 309. 
Giants' Causeway, 24. 
Gibraltar, 430. 
Giessbach, 285. 
Girgenti, 389. 
Giurgevo, 257. 
Glamis Castle, 83. 
Glasgow, 60. 
Glastonbury, 153. 
Glen Fruin, 67. 
Gorner Grat, 295. 
Gotha, 240. 
Gothenburg, 445. 
Granada, 417- 
Granville, 167. 
Grasmere, 50. 
Gratz, 358. 
Greenock, 67, 80. 
Greenwich, 153. 
Grimsel Pass, 283. 



Grindelwald, 285. 
Grotta Ferrata, 368, 
Haaklem, 315. 
Hague, The. S13. 
Hal, 301. 
Halle, 341. 
Hamburg, 239, 441. 
Hamilton, 67. 
Hammerfest, 448. 
Hammerstein, 336. 
Hampstead, 153. 
Hampton Court, 152- 
Hanover, 238. 
Harrogate, 98. 
Harrow, 154. 
Hastings, 155. 
Havre, 163. 
Haworth, 103. 
Heidelberg, 370. 
Helensburgh, 67. 
Helvellyn, 51. 
Herculaneum, 379. 
Highgate, 153. 
Highlands, Scottish^ 

Holland, 313. 
Holyhead, 37. 
Homburg, 237. 
Hotels, XX. 
Hull, 103. 
Hyferes, 399. 
Innsbruck, 264. 
Interlaken, 285. 
Inverary, 70. 
Inverness, 78. 
Inversnaid, 71, 69. 
loua, 76. 
Ireland, 1, 26. 
Iron Gates, 367. 
Irongray, 57. 
Irun, 433. 
Ischia, 383. 
Ischl, 360. 
Iseo, 301. 
Isola Bella, 299. 
Italy, 397. 
Jerez, 432. 
Johannisb erg, 333. 
Julier Pass, 279. 
Jungfrau, 386. 



INDEX. 



503 



KaajjKrsteg, 287. 
Knsan Defile, 257. 
Katrine, Lock, 71. 
Keliieim, 269. 
Kenilwortli, 114. 
Keswick, 52. 53, 
Kew, 153. 

Kidderminster, 111. 
Killarney^ 6, 10, 
Kingstown, 21. 
Komorn, 255. 
Konigsstiili], 230, 271- 
Konigswiuier, 223. 
Konigstein, 248. 
Kreuznach, 233. 
Laach, 226. 
Laeken, 206. 
Lahueck, 230. 
Laibach, 258. 
Lanark, 68. 
5jausannc, 288, 199. 
Leamiiigton, 121. 
L-^cco, .301. 
Leeds. i02. 
Le^-hoV-., 389. 
Leij>!»ic, -^0. 
Leith, 91. 
Leniberg, 257. 
Lerida, 411. 
L6rins, Isles of, 399. 
Letter of Credit, ix. 
ienk, Baths of, 287, 

296. 
leydeu, 215. 
Li^ge, 202. 
Lille, 2f>2. 
Limerick, 13. 
Lincoln, 105. 
Link6ping, 444. 
iinlitligow, 82. 
linz, 225, 259. 
Tjisbon, 434. 
i.isieu.x, 167. 
(Liverpool, 36, vin. 
Llanf>.^fF, l.^SB. 
Jjocaruo, 29t\ 
liodorc, 52. 
Lomond, Locb, 65r. 
Kiondon. ^28. 
LoEslonderry, ZS. 



Lorch, 232. 
Louvain, 207. 
Lucca, 392. 
Lucerne, 280. 
Lugano, 300, 279. 
Luino, 299. 
Lund, 444. 
Lurlei,231. 
Luxembourgj 204. 
Lyons. 403.' 
Macon, 199. 
Madrid, 426. 
Magdeburg, 238. 
Maggiore, Lake, 298. 
Majorca, 409. 
Malaga, 419. 
Malamocco, 320. 
Malmaison,194. 
Malmo, 4i4. 
Manchester, 104. 
Mannheim, 27L 
Mantes- 165. 
Mantua, 310. 
Marburg, 238. 
Margate, 154. 
Marino, 368. 
Marksburg, 230. 
Marly, 195. 
Marseilles, 399, 297. 
Martigny, 292. 
Matterhoi'n, 295. 
Mauchline, 57. 
Mavciice, 234. 
Mayr.ootli, 22. 
Meaux, 199. 
Mechlin, 210. 
Meiringen, 284. 
Melrose. 93. 
Menaggio, 300. 
Menai Bridge, 28. 
Menione, 397. 
Mer de Glace, 293. 
Messina, -384. 
Metz, 233. 
Meudon, 197. 
Milan, 302. 
Minorca, 409. 
Miramar, 259. 
Modena, 324, 310. 
Mcmaoo 397. 



Money, xv. 
Monreale, 388. 
Mons, 201. 
Monserrat, 408. 
Mont Blanc, 293. 
Monte Cenis,297. 
Monte Rosa, 295. 
Montgomerie, 58. 
Montmorency, 195. 
Montpellier, 405. 
Montrose, 83. 
Morat, Lake, 291. 
Moscow, 460. 
Moselle River, 228. 
Mouse Tower, 232. 
Mt. St. Michel, 167. 
Munich, 261, 310, 24ft 
Murano, 320. 
Miirren, 286. 
Naien, 78. 
Namur, 203. 
Nancy, 200. 
Naples, 370. 
Narbonne, 406. 
Nemi, Lake, 367. 
Neuchatel, 291. 
Neuwied, 226. 
Newark, 107. 
Newcastle, 95. 
Newmarket, 124. 
Nice, 398. 
Niederwald, 233. '■ 
Niederwerth, 227. 
Nijui-Novgorod, 463, 
Nimes, 401. 
Nisida, 377. 
Nonnenwertb, 224. 
Northampton, 125. 
Norway, 445. 
Nottingham, 107, 
Novara, 306. 
Nuremberg, 267. 
Oban, 74, 78. 
Ober-Aramergau, 264» 
Oberwesel, 231. 
Ocean Voyage, vii. 
Odessa, 463. 
Oporto, 436. 
Orange, 403. 
Orleans, 197. 



504 



INDEX. 



Orta, 301. 
Orvieto, 338 
Ostend, 207- 

Ostia, 370. 
Otranto, 328. 
Oxford, 125. 
Padua, 311. 

Posstum, 383. 
Palermo, 387- 
Palestrina, 369. 
Palma. 409. 
Paris, 168 
Parma, 324.. 
Passports, ix, 
Pau, 436. 
Pavia, 305. 
Perpignan, 106. 
Perth, 83. 
Perugia, 338. 
Pesaro, 327. 
Peschiei-a, 301, 308. 
Pesth, 255. 

Peterborough, 121, 106. 
Pfalz, 231. 
Piacenza, 310, 305. 
Pierrefonds, 196. 
Pillnitz, 247. 
Pisa, 890. 
Pistoja, 328. 
Plymoutli, 159. 
Poitiers, 440. 
Pompeii, 379. 
Pontresina, 280. 
Port Malion, 409. 
Portsmouth, 156. 
Portugal, 434. 
Posilippo, 378. 
Potsdam, 245. 
Pozzuoli, 377. 
Prague, 248. 
Presburg, 255. 
Procida. 882, 383. 
quee^stown, 2. 
Kagatz, 277. 
Ilailways, xvi. 
llsmsgale, 154 , 
Kapperschwyl, 277. 
Ratishon, 269. 
Bavello, 383. 
Bavenna, 325, 



Reggio, 325, 384. 
Remagen, 225. 
Renfrew, 66. 
Rheims, 199. 
Rheineck, 226. 
Rheinfels 230. 
Rheinsteiu, 232. 
Rhense, 230. 
Rhine, 222. 
Rhone Glacier, 283. 
Richmond, 152. 
Righi, The, 281. 
Rimini, 327. 
Ripon, 97. 
Riva, 302. 
Rochester, 159. 
Rolandseck, 224. 
Rome, 340. 
Roslin, 92. 
Rothesay, 79. 
Rotterdam, 212. 
Rouhaix, 202. 
Rouen, 163. 
Roveredo, 265, 310. 
Rovigo, 321. 
Rowardenuan, 69. 
Riidesheim, 233. 
Rueil, 194. 
Rugby, 121, 
Russia, 455. 
Rustohuck, 257. 
Rydal, 49. 
Ryde, 157. 
Sagitntum, 412. 
St. Albans, 154. 
St. Andrrws, 83. 
St. Bernard Pass. 294. 
St. Clond, 193. 
St. Denis, 195. 
St. Germain, 194. 
St. Goar, 230. 
St. Gothard Pass, 280, 

279 
St. Malo, 168. 
St. Maurice, 292. 
St. Moritz, 280. 
St. Petersburg, 456. 
St. Quentin, 201. 
St. Theodnle Pass, 295. 
Salerno, 383. 



Salisbury, 156. 
Salzburg, 259. 
Salzkammergut, 26(^ 
San Marino, 327. .' 
San Remo, 395. 
San Sebastian, 433». 
Santarem, 434. 
Saragossa, 410. 
Savona, 395. 
Saxon Switzerland, 

247. 
Saxoa-les-Bains, 295, 
Sceaux, 197. 
Schaffhausen, 275. 
Scheveningen, 214. 
Schiedam, 218, 
Schonbrunn, 254. 
Scotland, 56. 
Sebastopol, 462. 
Sedan, 200. 
Semmering Pas3, SiSa 

298. 
Servia, 256. 
Seville, 422. 
S&vres, 194. 
Sheffield, 105. 
Sicily, 384. 
Siena, 339. 

Simplon PaS9, 295, 294, 
Sion, 295. 
Solfatara, 377. 
Solferino, 308. 
Sorrento, 381. 
Southampton, 156. 
Spa, 203. 
Spain, 406. 
Spezia, La, 393, 825. 
Spires, 271. 
Spliis:en Pass, 377. 
Staffa, 75. 
Stahleck, 231. 
Staubbach, 286. 
Steamships, x. 
Stirling, 80. 
Stockholm, 449. 
Stolzenfels, 229. 
Strasbourg, 272, 200. 
Stratford-on-Avon, U8k 
Stuttgart, 266. 
Subiaco. 369, 



INUEX. 



505^ 



dweden, 449. 

Switzerland, 274. 
Syracuse, 388. 
Taokmina, 385. 
Taranto, 328. 
Tarascon, 402. 
Tarragona, 412. 
Teplitz, 249. 
Temi, 339. 

Thrasymene Lake, 338. 
Throndhjem, 447. 
Tlmn, Lake of, 286. 
Tivoli, 368. 
Toledo, 430. 
Torcello, 831. 
Torquay, 159, 
Tortosa, 412. 
Toulon, 399. 
Toulouse, 439. 
Tours, 198. 
Trent, 265, 310. 
Treves, 229. 
Trouville, 162. 
Trieste, 321, 258. 
Trossaclis, The, 71. 



Tunbriage Wells, 155. 
Turin, 305. 
Tusculum, 368. 
Tyrol, 264. 
Ullswater, 48. 
Ulm, 266. 
Upsala, 454. 
Urbino, 328. 
Utrecht, 217. 
Valence, 403. 
Valencia, 412. 
Valenciennes, 201. 
Valladolid, 4S2. 
Vallombrosa, 337. 
Vaucluse, 403. 
Velletri, 371. 
Venice, 313, 807. 
Verona, 308, 307 
Versailles, 191. 
Vesuvius, 379. 
Vevay, 291. 
Via Mala, 278. 
Vicenza, 311. 
Vichv, 4i(). 
Vienna, 2o0. 



Vienne, 403. 
Vincennes, 181. 
Wales, 27. 
WalhaUa, The, 269. 
Wallenstadt, Lake. 27f. 
Wartburg, 239. 
Warwick, 116. 
Waterloo, 206. 
Weimar, 240. 
Wells, 158. 
Wiesbaden, 237, 234. 
Wight, Isle of, 157. 
Wildbad Gastein, 260i, 
Wilhehnshohe, 238. 
Winchester, 156. 
Windermere, 44, 46k 
Windsor, 151. 
Worcester, 112. 
Worms, 271. 
Wiirzburg, 270. 
YoEK, 98. 
Yverdon, 291. 
Zaandam, 217. 
Zennatt, 295. 
Zurich, 276, 266, 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



I -Mr '33 



